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Old 10-08-2012, 08:48 PM   #4081
y0y02369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinnin View Post
Make some peg mounts.

You don't have to mount BOTH peg mounts at the same time unless you want to take a picture showing the difference.

For me 1.5" down and 1" back made a huge difference.
that'd be exactly what i need! how did you make it??
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:50 PM   #4082
y0y02369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
Go to that auction sight and do a search on KLR 650 foot pegs.
You'll come up with a boat load of listings.
Some of them are one piece pegs that bolt right on and sit lower than the stock pegs.
Just remove the old pegs and replace with the new ones.
I'm not sure of the quality though.
And if you do change your stock foot pegs, you could always reuse them for a highway bar or bolt them to the skid plate.

might have missed it... but what auction site..?
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:52 PM   #4083
RandoCommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y0y02369 View Post
might have missed it... but what auction site..?
fleabay
Be forewarned, that the prices for a lot of the pegs are high if you're on a budget.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:54 PM   #4084
y0y02369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
fleabay
Be forewarned, that the prices for a lot of the pegs are high if you're on a budget.
Perfect! Kinda am but we will see. thanks anyway!!
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Old 10-09-2012, 04:37 AM   #4085
Grinnin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y0y02369 View Post
that'd be exactly what i need! how did you make it??
The part that holds the peg is 1 1/4 inch square tubing with 3/16 inch wall thickness. This provides the 7/8" (22mm) inside dimensions for any peg that fits the Kawasaki mounts.

The part that touches the frame is 3/4" square tubing.

The bolts go through 1/2" OD round tubes -- i.e. the bolts cannot crush the 3/4" square tube. The 1/2" round tubes go all the way through the 3/4" square and also through one side of the 1 1/4" square. This makes the 1 1/4" tube "keyed" to the bolt sleeves. Theoretically this "keyed" construction lets me get the angle exactly the same as the original, but you can see from the comparison photo (in other posts) that I missed by over a degree.

Cut parts to length then remove metal that's not needed.



You might be able to see that the front 1/2" tube is longer than the back one. (The back bolt head shows a little in the shadow.) This allows a larger bolt head to clear the angled cut on the 1 1/4" square.

The way all the parts came together I didn't have good access for any kind of welding (wire-feed and oxy-acetylene are the options here) so I brazed it all together.

The whole mount weighs about as much as a stock mount. I forget if it's 1/16" wider or narrower, but it's about as wide as stock too.

I completed these just over a year ago and they were on when I was riding nearly daily on eastern Maine's ATV trails. Total 12 to 14 thousand miles so far.
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Grinnin screwed with this post 10-09-2012 at 07:13 AM Reason: Replaced photo
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:46 PM   #4086
y0y02369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinnin View Post
The part that holds the peg is 1 1/4 inch square tubing with 3/16 inch wall thickness. This provides the 7/8" (22mm) inside dimensions for any peg that fits the Kawasaki mounts.

The part that touches the frame is 3/4" square tubing.

The bolts go through 1/2" OD round tubes -- i.e. the bolts cannot crush the 3/4" square tube. The 1/2" round tubes go all the way through the 3/4" square and also through one side of the 1 1/4" square. This makes the 1 1/4" tube "keyed" to the bolt sleeves. Theoretically this "keyed" construction lets me get the angle exactly the same as the original, but you can see from the comparison photo (in other posts) that I missed by over a degree.

Cut parts to length then remove metal that's not needed.



You might be able to see that the front 1/2" tube is longer than the back one. (The back bolt head shows a little in the shadow.) This allows a larger bolt head to clear the angled cut on the 1 1/4" square.

The way all the parts came together I didn't have good access for any kind of welding (wire-feed and oxy-acetylene are the options here) so I brazed it all together.

The whole mount weighs about as much as a stock mount. I forget if it's 1/16" wider or narrower, but it's about as wide as stock too.

I completed these just over a year ago and they were on when I was riding nearly daily on eastern Maine's ATV trails. Total 12 to 14 thousand miles so far.
I shall make that my winter project!!! thank you!
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:27 PM   #4087
Nitro1970
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So what brand chain do y'all run??
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:49 PM   #4088
newcastleadam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitro1970 View Post
So what brand chain do y'all run??
EBay X-ring special.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:23 PM   #4089
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http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...XW-RING-Chain/

$68 for the 520x106, and that's for a good chain. They also have Primary Drive sprockets, $9 for a 15t front and $20 for a 43r rear (those are stock numbers). That's $98 for the three, add a small item to bring the total to $100+ and then you get free shipping.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:42 PM   #4090
Tsotsie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitro1970 View Post
So what brand chain do y'all run??
DID, XV, Gold chain!

Tried the Rocky Mtn Primary Drive special and it was throwing O rings at 12K - not good! My chains normally last at least 20K+.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:47 PM   #4091
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Ran out of gas today, drained the tank empty. Miles from home, and even more miles from a gas station. Somehow the carb must have filled with just enough go juice to get me about a mile from home, then it was huffin it from there.

I'm such a badass that I pushed the bike the whole mile uphill back home.
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Old 10-17-2012, 03:14 AM   #4092
XDragRacer
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Originally Posted by XpressCS View Post
Ran out of gas today, drained the tank empty.
Didn't exploit the SECRET RESERVE?

(Lay bike on left side, petcock lever in RESERVE position; fuel drains from bottom right side reservoir over to petcock and fuel line connection, lower left of fuel tank. Set bike upright, ride on.)

A few miles can be coaxed from the residual fuel languishing in the lower right recesses of the tank.
Quote:
Somehow the carb must have filled with just enough go juice to get me about a mile from home, then it was huffin it from there.
Just curious; at what point did you switch to the RESERVE petcock lever position? Were you on reserve when you initially left your house?

XDragRacer screwed with this post 10-17-2012 at 03:26 AM
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:57 AM   #4093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Didn't exploit the SECRET RESERVE?

(Lay bike on left side, petcock lever in RESERVE position; fuel drains from bottom right side reservoir over to petcock and fuel line connection, lower left of fuel tank. Set bike upright, ride on.)

A few miles can be coaxed from the residual fuel languishing in the lower right recesses of the tank.Just curious; at what point did you switch to the RESERVE petcock lever position? Were you on reserve when you initially left your house?
He was aware he was already on reserve and best part....he had just tried jump starting the dead battery on his Jeep with his KLR.
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:18 AM   #4094
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aprilia View Post
He was aware he was already on reserve and best part....he had just tried jump starting the dead battery on his Jeep with his KLR.
I hear you; just wasn't sure he was aware of the additional fuel volume, the "secret reserve," available from laying 'er down on the left side.
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:25 AM   #4095
XpressCS
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I knew there was a smidgen of gas left in the bike, I could hear it, that's why I was all WTF when it just quit for the second time.

What, you've never jumpstarted a car before? You really can't, you have to let the bike do double duty and charge the battery just enough, which is why you keep the RPM's up so the stator is at a more peak output.
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