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Old 11-04-2012, 09:14 AM   #4171
Tsotsie
Semi-reformed Tsotsi
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: South Texas
Oddometer: 1,675
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcpenner View Post

No. It had faded red plastics.

The front frame down pipe split into two about 1/2 way down and then went under the motor to the swingarm area. He said that had stiffened up the frame a lot. My beef with the KLR is not so much the motor, but frame flex when loaded and at 80+. The RBR seen one had an aftermarket pipe on too.
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:37 AM   #4172
Tsotsie
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Location: South Texas
Oddometer: 1,675
Found it- the KLRsys at the RTB Rally!

I apologise - I guess the plastics were not that faded - but after about 50+ miles of dirt, it had accumulate some honerable dirt by then! Super nice guy!

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Old 11-06-2012, 06:04 AM   #4173
Danger4u2
KX & CR 500 Rider
 
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: OKC
Oddometer: 605
Build thread.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=640772
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:11 AM   #4174
Drybonz
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Joined: Nov 2012
Location: Port Elizabeth, South Africa
Oddometer: 4
Pissed Super stiff clutch action,

Howzit, I'm new to the forum and new to the KLR.

Picked up my 'new' toy, 07 klr 650 27000km on Saturday, and took her out for a quick ride, after 350km I had no clutch!

The lever just flopped about, ( like a snapped cable), made a u-turn an d completed the 350km home trip.


On closer inspection, I found the lever (end that goes into side casing) had sheared !

Innitially i did think the lever was a bit on the stiff side, but figured i was just used to my Gixxers action,

I made up a new arm, but the clutch action is super stiff, which cant be right.


clutch plates and springs are all within spec, fitted new bearing

Any idea on what the possible problem could be
has anyone had a similar experience ?

Any help/advice would be appreciated.
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:13 AM   #4175
DirtyDog
Lust for dust.
 
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Tulsa... it's OK
Oddometer: 7,666
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drybonz View Post
Howzit, I'm new to the forum and new to the KLR.

Picked up my 'new' toy, 07 klr 650 27000km on Saturday, and took her out for a quick ride, after 350km I had no clutch!

The lever just flopped about, ( like a snapped cable), made a u-turn an d completed the 350km home trip.


On closer inspection, I found the lever (end that goes into side casing) had sheared !

Innitially i did think the lever was a bit on the stiff side, but figured i was just used to my Gixxers action,

I made up a new arm, but the clutch action is super stiff, which cant be right.


clutch plates and springs are all within spec, fitted new bearing

Any idea on what the possible problem could be
has anyone had a similar experience ?

Any help/advice would be appreciated.
Any chance the clutch was upgraded to a "heavy duty" or offroad aftermarket one? From my experience (and I've read it on here before), the aftermarket clutch springs are WAY too stiff. I had to go back to the OEM ones with the aftermarket plates and discs. I had the same symptoms. Super stiff clutch and it actually bent the little arm on the case.
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:02 PM   #4176
jonyfi
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Greenbrae, California U.S.A.
Oddometer: 410
Carb rebuild

Well I have been experiencing what seems to be quick moments of fuel starvation (1993, aprox 30,0000)...I figured I'd start with a carb rebuild, its an old Moto so it could certainly use one anyway. All is going good with that, it certainly can use it...

Then I wanted to review the de-californication I did to it because it could certainly be something with that?...
I confirmed positive fuel from the tank to carb

I remember reviewing someone's diagrams...
I blocked the red hose coming off tank
I left the blue hose dangling/draining...
Plug air box
...but whenever I remove the tank I find fuel in the red hose, any reason why I can't leave that draining?

I am wandering if I have some breathing issue??? I thought if you reversed the blue and red hoses (with standard emission crap on) the bike can run crappy or even stop running???... So it goes to show something could be wrong?

Anyway, wanted to throw all this out there to see what comes back... I prob. won't have it back together for a few days, so no immediate results coming...

I realize it could be a slight electrical issue but sense it seems evident only in steady road riding at about 4000 rpms and not super consistantly I am thinking fuel....
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:24 PM   #4177
NHADV
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Oddometer: 554
I was wondering if anyone out there has put a taller shock on the 2nd KLR to prevent rear end sag when fully loaded?
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Old 11-06-2012, 12:32 PM   #4178
DirtyDog
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Tulsa... it's OK
Oddometer: 7,666
Quote:
Originally Posted by NHADV View Post
I was wondering if anyone out there has put a taller shock on the 2nd KLR to prevent rear end sag when fully loaded?
Look into raising links. If you're a large rider and are maxing out the preload setting while loaded, then maybe a different (not longer) shock is the answer.
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You're hot, cold, thirsty, hungry... beer will fix that.
Beer is a god damn miracle, and don't you forget it!"
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Old 11-06-2012, 02:02 PM   #4179
rustynut2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHADV View Post
I was wondering if anyone out there has put a taller shock on the 2nd KLR to prevent rear end sag when fully loaded?
or just put a new spring on from topgun
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Old 11-06-2012, 03:21 PM   #4180
DirtyDog
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Location: Tulsa... it's OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustynut2 View Post
or just put a new spring on from topgun
Good call. I have a heavier progressive brand spring on mine.
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"This place fucking runs on beer, you buy the right person a beer, and you get a job, a blow, a place to sleep, whatever.
You're hot, cold, thirsty, hungry... beer will fix that.
Beer is a god damn miracle, and don't you forget it!"
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Old 11-06-2012, 03:47 PM   #4181
IDRIDR
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Location: Boise, Idaho
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And even though the weight is on the rear, you probably want to up the spring rates in the forks and shock. Proper spring weights make a world of difference!
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:18 PM   #4182
XpressCS
Must. Have. Lumens..
 
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Joined: May 2012
Location: The big box California
Oddometer: 1,135
Wired my headlight with a relay. Still only comes on with low beam, but at least I'm getting nearly a full 14 volts to it, versus the original ~12 volts. Will eventually wire the lamp with the LED's so the low beam stays on all the time.
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My KLR is my therapy session. My quiet time. My deep tissue massage. Me without my KLR is reason enough to be deeply concerned. It is what calms me the most. Soothes my mind. Eases my stress. -Me
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Old 11-06-2012, 04:23 PM   #4183
CA Stu
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Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Riverside, CA
Oddometer: 46,785
Quote:
Originally Posted by icepick62 View Post
i've seen that some are using a 520x106 drive chain, my manual calls for a 525x106 drive chain, which one? I can't find a size on the existing chain or sprockets.
520
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:06 PM   #4184
XpressCS
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Joined: May 2012
Location: The big box California
Oddometer: 1,135
Quote:
Originally Posted by XpressCS View Post
Wired my headlight with a relay. Still only comes on with low beam, but at least I'm getting nearly a full 14 volts to it, versus the original ~12 volts. Will eventually wire the lamp with the LED's so the low beam stays on all the time.
Update, swapped headlight with a Sylvania Silverstar. MUCH better improvement over the stock bulb. Can comfortably drive with low beam on now!
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2004 KLR650

My KLR is my therapy session. My quiet time. My deep tissue massage. Me without my KLR is reason enough to be deeply concerned. It is what calms me the most. Soothes my mind. Eases my stress. -Me
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:19 PM   #4185
XDragRacer
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Joined: Mar 2009
Oddometer: 2,923
Quote:
Originally Posted by XpressCS View Post
Update, swapped headlight with a Sylvania Silverstar. MUCH better improvement over the stock bulb. Can comfortably drive with low beam on now!
Glad you found improvement in your lighting!

Not trying to one-up your modification, just pointing out another approach to Generation 1 lighting, this bulb:

http://www.tpimotorcycleparts.com/in...category_id=29

Draws 80 watts on low beam, 60 watts on high; low beam projects a "box" of light, creating a lighted rectangle where the beam strikes the riding surface; "day and night" difference compared with OEM lighting.

Bulb can be inserted, "plug-and-play," but much better with a dual relay harness; brighter, and spares the handlebar switchgear the full filament current.
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