ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-09-2012, 05:42 AM   #4216
Nitro1970
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Nitro1970's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Oddometer: 191
Are the Primary drive sprockets from Rockymountainatvmc good for the $$ or would $30 more for a sunstar be the way to go??
Nitro1970 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 06:22 AM   #4217
Aprilia
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Oddometer: 505
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitro1970 View Post
Are the Primary drive sprockets from Rockymountainatvmc good for the $$ or would $30 more for a sunstar be the way to go??
Im a long time Primary Drive user but if you are looking for the most bang for the buck I'd say step up to the Sunstar sprockets. I generally have to flip my counter sprocket half way through my chain's life. I never lube but keep it clean and generally get at least 15K miles from Primary Drive set up. With Sunstar sprockets no flipping and they are in better shape by the time the chain is done...around 20K.
Aprilia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 06:29 AM   #4218
eddie bolted
BOING!!!
 
eddie bolted's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: st. clair pa.
Oddometer: 2,974
. I generally have to flip my counter sprocket half way through my chain's life.

Doesn't that throw the alignment out between the front and rear sprockets?, The front sprocket has a collar that is thicker on one side more than the other.
__________________
If it stops raining now, i'll be pissed!(BEANTOP)
eddie bolted is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 06:42 AM   #4219
redog1
KLR650-2009
 
redog1's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Magalia, CA./ Butte & Siskiyou C.
Oddometer: 1,712
I run the sprockets fro Rocky Mtn....

all of the time, nothing fancy, just standard steel sprockets. That's all I've ever bought for my 2009 and 1990, last one (16 tooth on my 2009) got 16K out of it, Didn't flip it just replaced it when it started "hooking" and the rear was worn anyways. I always replace them in sets with a new chain.
__________________
No, I don't know where that road goes, let's find out!
redog1
redog1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 07:47 AM   #4220
DirtyDog
Lust for dust.
 
DirtyDog's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Tulsa... it's OK
Oddometer: 7,266
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddie bolted View Post
. I generally have to flip my counter sprocket half way through my chain's life.

Doesn't that throw the alignment out between the front and rear sprockets?, The front sprocket has a collar that is thicker on one side more than the other.


My thoughts exactly
__________________
And when you asked for light, I set myself on fire
And if I go far away I know- you'll find another slave
DirtyDog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 08:15 AM   #4221
Aprilia
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Oddometer: 505
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddie bolted View Post
. I generally have to flip my counter sprocket half way through my chain's life.

Doesn't that throw the alignment out between the front and rear sprockets?, The front sprocket has a collar that is thicker on one side more than the other.
Shims.... Also depends if its my very early GenI or my GenII. Either easily doable.
Aprilia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 09:19 AM   #4222
Nitro1970
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Nitro1970's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Oddometer: 191
Ok how much difference in gearing is there going from 17/43 with a 130/80 tire to 16/43 with a 140/80 tire??
Nitro1970 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 10:23 AM   #4223
DirtyDog
Lust for dust.
 
DirtyDog's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Tulsa... it's OK
Oddometer: 7,266
http://www.gearingcommander.com/
__________________
And when you asked for light, I set myself on fire
And if I go far away I know- you'll find another slave
DirtyDog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2012, 11:00 AM   #4224
Nitro1970
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Nitro1970's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Oddometer: 191
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
Thanks... Seems the answer to my question is... Not much
Nitro1970 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 04:23 AM   #4225
Whitebread117
I do what I want
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Western NC
Oddometer: 459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitro1970 View Post
Are the Primary drive sprockets from Rockymountainatvmc good for the $$ or would $30 more for a sunstar be the way to go??
I've run Primary Drive, Sunstar, JT, and PBI on the front.

Sunstar lasts the longest by a good margin.

Next comes JT and Primary Drive. Primary Drive is significantly cheaper but often goes out of stock right about the time I need to order JT is good quality but not much cheaper than Sunstar so I only buy them if I can't find Primary Drive or Sunstar in stock in the size I want.

PBI is Soft, noticeably softer than the other 3. A 16T I'm running right now showed visible hooking after 6k miles. I doubt it'll last much over 10k miles. A 14T Sunstar I've been using with the same chain after 5k it still looks new. The 14T is my offroad sprocket so it sees much tougher conditions than the 16T I only use for pavement/gravel road riding.

Whitebread117 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 06:32 AM   #4226
The Stew
Why not Zoidberg?
 
The Stew's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Clayton, Ohio
Oddometer: 50
Im currently installing a EM Drill thru subframe bolt upgrade because I dont have a choice in the matter. I wrecked on some ice last week and my sw motec bars took the brunt but in the process busted the bolt right off the frame leaving it stuck in there tighter then hell. Currenting drilling thru (about 2 hours along and im roughly 6/10 of the way there) and I'm wondering who in their right mind would do this mod with no reason!!! Its hard as hell to cut thru that metal and Im using a well lubed bit pulling out and cleaning it every few mm. Hopefully when I get home from work I can knock it out rather quickly and slap the bike back together. Im hoping HARD that I havnt screwed up and drilled untrue.

ANYWAY now that I'm doing this Im wondering if anybody have any Doohickey tools lying around that they would part with. Figured Id just knock everything out while I'm at it. I'd pass them on when I'm done with them as they pretty much are once use tools from what I understand.
__________________
2006 KLR650 Aztek Red / SW Motec Bars, Givi Top Case, Tank Bag, PMR Rear Luggage Guard, IMS Pro pegs, Mirror Relocation mod, Moose Folding Shift Lever, Gold Valve Cartridge Fork Emulators, T-Mod, Coleman Seat Cover, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Horse Saddlebags, Drill Through Subframe Upgrade, 12.9 Bolts, Doohickey, 16TFS, AGM Battery, AeroLED Tail Light
The Stew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2012, 07:03 AM   #4227
XpressCS
Must. Have. Lumens..
 
XpressCS's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2012
Location: The big box California
Oddometer: 1,029
If anyone's curious on how to wire their KLR with a couple relays for the headlight(s), and is the DIY kind of person, here you go:



-RED goes to your battery- make sure you use at least a 15 amp fuse inbetween the battery and the relay.
-BLACK is your ground.
-YELLOW goes to the factory high beam lead. The low beam lead will not be used.
-GREEN goes to the city lights plug. In America, this lead is just tucked inside of your headlamp fairing, it should be a brown wire with a white stripe. If you wish, you can install a switch inbetween the City Light lead and the relay to turn the headlamp off to conserve power. If you are in a country that uses the City Light, then you will need to splice into the lead- the power consumption is very low (0.1 amps about).
-ORANGE goes to your headlamp for LOW BEAM. When you turn your bike on, this relay will flick on and remain on.
-BLUE goes to your high beam, or your auxiliary lights. These will flick on independently of the low beam, keeping that close in beam spread for cornering while giving you that distance spread of the high beam.

-------------------

Total cost for me was about $11 in parts. This particular diagram will allow the low beam to remain on when you flick the high beams on. I don't recommend using the stock H4 style bulb with this- both filaments being on at the same time could cause the bulb to burn out, leaving you with no light. Since I use a pair of Rigid Industries Dually LED's for high beams, I don't have issue.

Sofar the bike has been handling the current flow just fine.
__________________
2004 KLR650

My KLR is my therapy session. My quiet time. My deep tissue massage. Me without my KLR is reason enough to be deeply concerned. It is what calms me the most. Soothes my mind. Eases my stress. -Me
XpressCS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2012, 11:42 PM   #4228
Drybonz
n00b
 
Joined: Nov 2012
Location: Port Elizabeth, South Africa
Oddometer: 4
Originally Posted by DirtyDog
Any chance the clutch was upgraded to a "heavy duty" or offroad aftermarket one? From my experience (and I've read it on here before), the aftermarket clutch springs are WAY too stiff. I had to go back to the OEM ones with the aftermarket plates and discs. I had the same symptoms. Super stiff clutch and it actually bent the little arm on the case.


Good Idea, I'll try get in touch with the previous owner to find out. He did upgrade on the front end, Wilbers i think,
so maybe he fiddled with the clutch aswell

Shot for the brainwave ![/QUOTE]




All clutch components are stock !! a mod was done on lever, to cure excessive clutch travel.
I've ordered in new bits in the meantime, somehow i get the feeling ill be sitting with excessive travel soon
Drybonz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 03:04 AM   #4229
PWRCRZR
Grumpy Old Bastard
 
PWRCRZR's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Oddometer: 7,355
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Stew View Post
Im currently installing a EM Drill thru subframe bolt upgrade because I dont have a choice in the matter. I wrecked on some ice last week and my sw motec bars took the brunt but in the process busted the bolt right off the frame leaving it stuck in there tighter then hell. Currenting drilling thru (about 2 hours along and im roughly 6/10 of the way there) and I'm wondering who in their right mind would do this mod with no reason!!! Its hard as hell to cut thru that metal and Im using a well lubed bit pulling out and cleaning it every few mm. Hopefully when I get home from work I can knock it out rather quickly and slap the bike back together. Im hoping HARD that I havnt screwed up and drilled untrue.

ANYWAY now that I'm doing this Im wondering if anybody have any Doohickey tools lying around that they would part with. Figured Id just knock everything out while I'm at it. I'd pass them on when I'm done with them as they pretty much are once use tools from what I understand.
I did the drill through earlier this year, dam hard to drill straight and true that's for sure. Mine was not quite true but I was able to tap the bolt through and everything has seemed fine since. I plan to tear the bike down this winter for some maintenance and possibly some upgrades I will check it then. Make sure to upgrade the bolts on the lower braces as well while you are at it.
__________________
However, I am not complaining because I know that I am probably better today then I will be tomorrow, so I try and enjoy every day as it comes, and stay determined to live well and be appreciative of what I still can do..."Stromsurfer"
PWRCRZR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2012, 06:12 AM   #4230
The Stew
Why not Zoidberg?
 
The Stew's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Clayton, Ohio
Oddometer: 50
Quote:
Originally Posted by PWRCRZR View Post
I did the drill through earlier this year, dam hard to drill straight and true that's for sure. Mine was not quite true but I was able to tap the bolt through and everything has seemed fine since. I plan to tear the bike down this winter for some maintenance and possibly some upgrades I will check it then. Make sure to upgrade the bolts on the lower braces as well while you are at it.

Yeah I screwed up royal and drilled down and to the front busting threw the plug for about a inch before I noticed I was way off. Was able to wallow it back true though via the other side but now there is a hole in the plug in the center. Everything is back up and installed and it feels stronger then hell but I just feel bad that I manged to screw up that bad.

Now to finish poping the dent out of my gas tank (from the PO) and painting it red to match the plasic. Hoping to get it all sanded and preped today. Siphon the gas out, sand with 150 wet then 1000 then hit it with cleaner. Hoping it isnt as time consuming as it sounds.
__________________
2006 KLR650 Aztek Red / SW Motec Bars, Givi Top Case, Tank Bag, PMR Rear Luggage Guard, IMS Pro pegs, Mirror Relocation mod, Moose Folding Shift Lever, Gold Valve Cartridge Fork Emulators, T-Mod, Coleman Seat Cover, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Horse Saddlebags, Drill Through Subframe Upgrade, 12.9 Bolts, Doohickey, 16TFS, AGM Battery, AeroLED Tail Light
The Stew is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 10:21 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014