KLR650 Only Thread......

[XDragRacer]

Originally Posted by schaffer40

I will try getting it out tomorrow with the worlds smallest easy out...hopefully.

!

Your call, but . . . I'd cut a slot for flat-blade screwdriver with a Moto-Tool cut-off wheel, and use a flat-blade bit with an impact driver. Miracle cures with easy-outs have usually eluded me; the impact driver (less than $ 10 at Harbor Freight) has a much higher success rate.

Galvanic corrosion between steel machine screws and the master cylinder alloy casting creates a lot of adhesion. A JIS (vs. a SAE Phillips-head) bit provides better contact and torque transmission to the screw head, but . . . the impact driver remains key to the solution.

You can replace the master cylinder cover machine screws with Allen head or flat-head hex socket screws; not a bad practice for external carburetor screws, also.

[schaffer40]

Originally Posted by XDragRacer

Your call, but . . . I'd cut a slot for flat-blade screwdriver with a Moto-Tool cut-off wheel, and use a flat-blade bit with an impact driver. Miracle cures with easy-outs have usually eluded me; the impact driver (less than $ 10 at Harbor Freight) has a much higher success rate.

Galvanic corrosion between steel machine screws and the master cylinder alloy casting creates a lot of adhesion. A JIS (vs. a SAE Phillips-head) bit provides better contact and torque transmission to the screw head, but . . . the impact driver remains key to the solution.

You can replace the master cylinder cover machine screws with Allen head or flat-head hex socket screws; not a bad practice for external carburetor screws, also.

Thanks for the sympathy. I did try the cutting a slot operation with a no go. I had a vision after drinking and looking at it. Since the screws are fluted (angled) I felt I could use a properly sized counter sink to remove the head of the screw. And low and behold it worked like a champ. I removed the threaded portion of the screw from the housing with fingers?? So one disaster averted and I will buy some new hardware tomorrow and carry on.

[simbaboy]

Originally Posted by DualSportDad

Yeah I'm just going to keep my mouth shut. Of he shoots me a offer that sounds reasonable I'll take a serious look at the bike and see if its worth it. If its not I'll try and help him get it up to par of what he wants for it and he can sell it to someone else.

It'd be nice if a 08+ with a blown motor would fall into my lap. :)

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

Once you get your friend's bike fixed up and cleaned up completely I am sure you could get about $1400 for it. So figure in the cost and your time to get there.

If this was somebody you did not know, you would offer $500.

An offer of $650 is NOT insulting at all. Most good friendships are not affected by stuff like this. If he appears upset by your offer, tell him what you told us. You will help him clean it up/ fix it up so you can sell it off.

Simba

[XDragRacer]

Originally Posted by schaffer40

Since the screws are fluted (angled) I felt I could use a properly sized counter sink to remove the head of the screw. And low and behold it worked like a champ.

As the guys in the Guinness commercial say, "Brilliant!"

A solution worthy of MacGyver.

If you can find socket-head flat-head screws, you'll replicate the countersink taper of the original screw heads.

Again, "Well played!"

[RandoCommando]

Originally Posted by slowoldguy

Yup. That $500 offer will keep the friendship swimming along nicely. You'd be much better off (friendship speaking) keeping your mouth shut.

The bike has not been taken care, has problems and has been sitting out there for how many years?

The seller should get the bike running then put a price on it.
Why won't he do that?
Maybe because he knows it needs a lot of work.
A $500 offer can easily be rejected by the seller with no harm or foul. IT'S ONLY AN OFFER.
Or he may accept the offer and be happy.
Paying a lot for a bike and then paying more to fix it will harm and foul the relationship.
If he does get the bike for a low price, has it checked out and it requires nothing, he can always give the seller more money after the fact.
But if the seller accepts the $500 offer in the first place, there was no harm or foul.
Or don't make an offer and don't buy the bike.
Simple enough.

[slowoldguy]

$1400 for a "completely fixed up and cleaned up" 07 KLR? I'll take two. lol Show me one advertised for anywhere near that price. Anybody on this thread willing to sell their bike for that? ;)

[0theories]

**Taken**

Hi guys, installed the drill through subframe kit in my 2002 last night. Not a difficult job. Followed some directions posted here somewhere and did it without shifting the subframe and disconnecting the carb rubber. Anyway, I have most of the kit still. I already had the lower bolts upgraded so didn't use those. I just used the large bolt and nut (with fuji lock). If anyone wants the kit minus the upper bolt, I can send it to them for shipping cost (smallest flat rate USPS box). Or you can pick it up in PDX. You'll just need to buy the upper bolt and nut. The kit will come with 3 drills (2 smaller ones same size, and the large final one), the two lower bolts, the lower spacer for exhaust side, the alignment tool and the instructions. Thanks.

[schaffer40]

So I got new hardware to finish the SS brake line install that went to hell yesterday. I could not build pressure trying to bleed the air out of the new SS line. Tried and tried...no go. Started thinking I'd go buy the Mightvac, didn't really want to spend the money. So I started looking around the garage and had an epiphany. I got a spray nozzle from a bottle of window cleaner and slid it into the tube connected to the bleeder and started pumping. It worked great, pulled the fluid right down the line with mostly no bubbles. I removed it and and finished the bleeding like normal (pumping the lever/opening bleeder) until all the air was out.

[sandalscout]

That's a pretty good idea!

Harbor Freight sells a brake bleeder vacuum kit, I think I got it on sale for about $15. I'd never bled brakes using a vac setup before, wow, what a breeze!

[DesertDuster]

Originally Posted by Nitro1970

I like the IRC GP-1 for 50/50... The rear didn't last as long as I hoped (2900 miles) but they did good while they lasted

My last IRC rear tire lasted 5900 miles but probably should have been replaced at around 5500 miles. My current IRC GP-1 rear tire has 3700 miles and will likely need to be replaced around 4500 miles. I am not sure why your tire doesn't last as long.

[Nitro1970]

Originally Posted by DesertDuster

My last IRC rear tire lasted 5900 miles but probably should have been replaced at around 5500 miles. My current IRC GP-1 rear tire has 3700 miles and will likely need to be replaced around 4500 miles. I am not sure why your tire doesn't last as long.

The only tire I've had that lasted close 5K was a Duro 904. Next up is a shinko 705, bald at 4K. The rest less than 3500. A Metzeler ME880 is going on this week (lots of pavement here lately). If it don't last, I give up.

[Tsotsie]

Originally Posted by skiridefastforever

I finally did the dooh, and the Torsion spring and the deep hole problem. I have a question for the experts. If one of the thrust washers did fall into the engine from the behind the idler sprocket, would there be any noticeable change in the engine? My idler sprocket came loose on me when I pulled the inner cover and I put it back and didn't see anything in the engine but would it go back together and start if it were missing a thrust washer? I took it on a test ride, seemed ok. Would the engine start and sound ok if a thrust washer had fallen in?

Sound like- nasty! Open it up, find it and mount it properly. The alternator rotor magnets are likely to find it for you and then take out your coils and CDI is one distinct possibility . Repaired one for someone a few years ago that did that.

[East Coast Rider]

Originally Posted by schaffer40

Thanks for the sympathy. I did try the cutting a slot operation with a no go. I had a vision after drinking and looking at it. Since the screws are fluted (angled) I felt I could use a properly sized counter sink to remove the head of the screw. And low and behold it worked like a champ. I removed the threaded portion of the screw from the housing with fingers?? So one disaster averted and I will buy some new hardware tomorrow and carry on.

Glad you got it taken care of!! Anti-seize is your friend when it comes to steel fasteners being used in aluminum/alloy engine cases and such items. :)

[bomber60015]

Originally Posted by DualSportDad

Yeah I'm just going to keep my mouth shut. Of he shoots me a offer that sounds reasonable I'll take a serious look at the bike and see if its worth it. If its not I'll try and help him get it up to par of what he wants for it and he can sell it to someone else.

It'd be nice if a 08+ with a blown motor would fall into my lap. :)

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

I have seen very few vehicle purchases between friends go well, or end with the friendship unmarred . . . . . .

YMMV, of course.

[skiridefastforever]

Originally Posted by Tsotsie

Sound like- nasty! Open it up, find it and mount it properly. The alternator rotor magnets are likely to find it for you and then take out your coils and CDI is one distinct possibility . Repaired one for someone a few years ago that did that.

Yeah. I better open it back up. Did the engine seize on the one you fixed? Unrelated question: I put in bel ray thumper full synth, I guess this was a mistake? The guy in the local shop said this would trash my clutch. I know there are tons of oil debates out there but this guy said to stay away from the synth. I thought I would start using the rosella because so many people seem to be happy with it and the price is right but is a synth. Is it going to be hard on the clutch?