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Old 12-15-2012, 02:01 AM   #4546
Frey
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Bluhduh

Hey guys having a problem with my EBC 320mm oversized rotor chewing through brake bads like crazy. Think its time to upgrade the caliper set up. Any recommendations? Thank you.
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:22 AM   #4547
MtnRider2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frey View Post
Hey guys having a problem with my EBC 320mm oversized rotor chewing through brake bads like crazy. Think its time to upgrade the caliper set up. Any recommendations? Thank you.
I would look at the SV650 caliper upgrade on KLR650.net That is the direction I am going just need to get the brackets made.
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:34 AM   #4548
Kbowling
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Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
All 2008 models and 2009 models with vin 20800 or below.
Check the last 5 numbers on your vin for the 2009.
I have a later number ,but Im going to remove the cover and take a look. Thanks for the advice
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:41 AM   #4549
Kawidad
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Originally Posted by globalklr650 View Post
Hi,
I am traveling around the world on a 2011 KLR650 with my girlfriend. I have just completed Canada, Alaska and the USA 16,000 miles.
In the next few weeks I will be entering Mexico down baja and then traveling down central America to Argentina.
I know the bike will be getting old as we travel so can I buy KLR650 parts in these countries? Can I get tires like the trailmaster and anakee2? What work would I do before I leave even though I am on a low budget? I was thinking my dohicky from eagle mike and maybe the subframe bolt because we are overloading the bike (200 to 300lb of max vehicle weight).
If I am unable to get parts I will have to ship them to a post office but I am worried about shipping times.
Any other travel advice would also be great.
My girlfriend and I are also Canadain and we were hoping to go to Cuba from Mexico by boat for a few months. This could be with our without the bike. Any advice?

Thanks
Alex
Before you cross into Mexico, contact Eagle Mike, his shop is located in San Diego CA, or also Wyman Wynn (KLR expert and pro mechanic from another list) he's in Santa Barbara, CA. Either source will help with your needs, just contact them. I'm sure you can ride to their shops (not speaking from personal experience) to get some hands on help and advice.

Good luck and post up a RR.
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Old 12-17-2012, 05:35 PM   #4550
Hessian42
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So i'm currently in california on my "miami to patagonia trip" and i've put roughly 7 thousand miles on my 99 with no issues what so ever (totall miles 14k). Recently i started noticing a intermittent slight loss of power around the 3-5k band in any gear. To me it feels like a fuel issue though it's hard to tell. the idle is set at 1,500 but seems a bit erratic (though i blame the constant changes in altitude) The carb was soaked/cleaned and a new full kit was thrown in before i began the trip. I'm also running two .40 needle shims and drilled the slide hole. i'm running a raptor 660 petcock and threw in a iridium NGK plug at home. i run strictly 87 octane and have ran a bottle of sea foam half per full tank 2 tanks in a row at every oil change. Been changing the oil every 2k on the trip with rotella 15/40. it's always come out clean. magnetic drain plug is also clean. (doohikey and torsion spring done). thought maybe the gas cap vent might be clogging up? didn't touch it before the trip. is there more ethanol in the gas in california could this be the cause? The bike is getting about 180-200 miles per tank before reserve and i'm carrying around 80lbs of gear, i'm 210lbs fully geared up. so the millage isn't bad. not sure where to look other than breaking the carb apart and the also the gas cap.

any clues would be greatly appreciated!!!!
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:13 AM   #4551
Danger4u2
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Choke cable fix.

My choke cable froze up 2 weeks ago, it would not return to the off position. Since it is not a true chock (it's a fuel enrichment circuit) it wasn't a problem driving home until I would hit a stop light. I decided to take it the way of the kick stand/ clutch safety switches. Out of the equation. I ordered the start plunger for a 2006 KLX300R (KLX300- A6F) Part # 16016- 1068. http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche...006&fveh=27705



It might take some getting used to, reaching for the carb but if you own a dirt bike or a KLK250S it won't be a problem, you've done it before. The tip looks a little different but it still works just like the original. Plunger was $23.00 compared to the cable at $16.17. I used angled needle nose pliers after removing the gas tank.
At the same time I did the carburetor vent hose "T- Mod". If your new to the KLR:
Bike stalls in the rain/deep water crossings
This is generally caused by submersion of the carburetor vent line. This is a clear/transparent pink hose running from the side of the carb down to the bottom of the bike. If this gets clogged, the carb will fail to operate properly and the engine will quit. The best solution is known as the "T-mod:" install a tee in this line near the carb. Route the original line the way it was, and route a second line up under the seat or behind the fairing. Arrowhead Motorsports now sells a kit for this. KLR FAQ .http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html#generalinformation
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:49 AM   #4552
Kawidad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hessian42 View Post

is there more ethanol in the gas in california could this be the cause?

The bike is getting about 180-200 miles per tank before reserve and i'm carrying around 80lbs of gear, i'm 210lbs fully geared up. so the millage isn't bad. not sure where to look other than breaking the carb apart and the also the gas cap.

any clues would be greatly appreciated!!!!
Not more ethanol, but the Commiefornia winter gas blends are really weird and sometimes can make vehicles run very poorly. They increase the oxygenization agents (IIRC) and it can ruin the MPG on higher performance engines. In general, all Commiefornia gasoline is crap thanks to the bureaucrats in Sack O' Tomatoes.
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:47 PM   #4553
GAS GUY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger4u2 View Post
My choke cable froze up 2 weeks ago, it would not return to the off position. Since it is not a true chock (it's a fuel enrichment circuit) it wasn't a problem driving home until I would hit a stop light. I decided to take it the way of the kick stand/ clutch safety switches. Out of the equation. I ordered the start plunger for a 2006 KLX300R (KLX300- A6F) Part # 16016- 1068. http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche...006&fveh=27705



It might take some getting used to, reaching for the carb but if you own a dirt bike or a KLK250S it won't be a problem, you've done it before. The tip looks a little different but it still works just like the original. Plunger was $23.00 compared to the cable at $16.17. I used angled needle nose pliers after removing the gas tank.
At the same time I did the carburetor vent hose "T- Mod". If your new to the KLR:
Bike stalls in the rain/deep water crossings
This is generally caused by submersion of the carburetor vent line. This is a clear/transparent pink hose running from the side of the carb down to the bottom of the bike. If this gets clogged, the carb will fail to operate properly and the engine will quit. The best solution is known as the "T-mod:" install a tee in this line near the carb. Route the original line the way it was, and route a second line up under the seat or behind the fairing. Arrowhead Motorsports now sells a kit for this. KLR FAQ .http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html#generalinformation
That tip does not have the protrusion on it like a stock KLR does.Are you sure that will completly shut off the enrichener circuit fuel flow ??? Or can you take the end off the KLR cable and put it on the plunger?
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:50 PM   #4554
XpressCS
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Joined: May 2012
Location: The big box California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
Not more ethanol, but the Commiefornia winter gas blends are really weird and sometimes can make vehicles run very poorly. They increase the oxygenization agents (IIRC) and it can ruin the MPG on higher performance engines. In general, all Commiefornia gasoline is crap thanks to the bureaucrats in Sack O' Tomatoes.
Not really. California has very good laws about the fuel tanks and whatnot gas stations have to use. Usually eastern states have a higher concentration of moisture than we do. We're lucky...
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:14 PM   #4555
Myfuture_yourdebt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hessian42 View Post
So i'm currently in california on my "miami to patagonia trip" and i've put roughly 7 thousand miles on my 99 with no issues what so ever (totall miles 14k). Recently i started noticing a intermittent slight loss of power around the 3-5k band in any gear. To me it feels like a fuel issue though it's hard to tell. the idle is set at 1,500 but seems a bit erratic (though i blame the constant changes in altitude).

any clues would be greatly appreciated!!!!
This link may help. I believe I've also read about a KLR guy modifying the vent diaphram to ensure proper flow through it though I think he found out that what he did allowed gas to spill from the cap during a fall. Either way a good cap cleaning shouldn't hurt. You can check if the cap is the problem by riding with the tank/cap open.
http://www.photos.klr650.net/thumbnails.php?album=775

Also check your tank vent under the seat. And while you're at it check that your petcock diaphram isn't leaking...I've read that a leaky diaphram, other than potentially failing completely which would cut-off fuel flow, it can leak such that the vacuum only opens the petcock partially which will restrict fuel flow and potentially cause starvation.

I had this same problem when my bike would get hot on a hot day and I was going up a steep grade...I'd also get hints of it in other conditions. After adjusting and rejetting the carb for the first time, the problem seems to have gone away although I haven't tried another steep grade during the summer since then. But this is a fairly common KLR problem with many potentially sources...with gas cap vent, tank vent, and leaky petcock being the most common I've read about.

Myfuture_yourdebt screwed with this post 12-18-2012 at 01:20 PM
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:15 PM   #4556
Danger4u2
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Location: OKC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
That tip does not have the protrusion on it like a stock KLR does.Are you sure that will completly shut off the enrichener circuit fuel flow ??? Or can you take the end off the KLR cable and put it on the plunger?
I looked for the old cable plunger for the picture but I had thrown it away. My 2007 KLR had the protrusion. In the parts look up it shows the protrusion on the KLX300 and the KLX250S plunger style. The 2 I ordered had no protrusion. I have the stock carb from my KLX250, I pulled the plunger and no protrusion. I stuck it in the KLR and it worked. It starts the bike with a 3000 rpm chock. I push it in about 1/2 way and hold it for about a minute @ 1400 rpm. I push it in and it drops to 700 rpm. When it warms it runs a little under 1000 rpm at idle. Same setting as the old cable plunger. I didn't need to adjust it. So I would say it works.
Is this where I need to say? "Disclaimer" It works for me. Use at your own risk, only a suggestion.
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:48 PM   #4557
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myfuture_yourdebt View Post
But this is a fairly common KLR problem with many potentially sources...with gas cap vent, tank vent, and leaky petcock being the most common I've read about.
OP has manually- (not vacuum-) actuated petcock:
Quote:
i'm running a raptor 660 petcock
Gunked-up jets may be his problem; spec hot idle is around 1200 rpm.

I put the stock starting enricher plunger onto a stem-shortened and re-knobbed Drag Specialties Harley cable, mounted to the switch cover shown:



Ergonomically located, cable does not interfere with any rider body part in any position.

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Old 12-18-2012, 04:06 PM   #4558
AndyT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hessian42 View Post
Recently i started noticing a intermittent slight loss of power around the 3-5k band in any gear. To me it feels like a fuel issue though it's hard to tell.
I had a similar issue with my 2000 KLR. It drove me crazy for 1200 miles. Ended up being the baffles in the OEM muffler broke loose and were restricting flow. Bang on the muffler and see if you can hear anything rattle.
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Old 12-18-2012, 05:33 PM   #4559
Danger4u2
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Location: OKC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
That tip does not have the protrusion on it like a stock KLR does.Are you sure that will completly shut off the enrichener circuit fuel flow ??? Or can you take the end off the KLR cable and put it on the plunger?
I didn't fully answer your question. The plunger is removable from the KLR cable so it can be put on a new cable. The KLX plunger is one piece NOT removable.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:10 PM   #4560
GAS GUY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger4u2 View Post
I didn't fully answer your question. The plunger is removable from the KLR cable so it can be put on a new cable. The KLX plunger is one piece NOT removable.
I'm not sure, but it seems like it should have that protrusion to properly seal the enrichener passage.
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