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Old 12-21-2012, 01:31 PM   #4576
KamikazeKLR
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Joined: May 2012
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astrolump View Post
i would recommend duplicolor truck armor water based spray on truck bed liner.

once you figure out the right distance to spray it from it creates a beautiful shark skin texture and is very durable.
last weekend i painted my entire f150 super crew with it and it looks absolutely amazing. like a $5k pro murder job. every time i come out of a shop there are people petting the truck and waiting to ask where i got it painted. there is some trial and error and basic prep involved so YMMV. but it is $11 a can and you could probabably do a klr in 2-3 cans. shake the hell out of it and shake it every 30 seconds or so while spraying....buy a can and practice and it will look the bomb. many light coats are the secret...let it build over time not a few thick coats...it will run.

So what do you mean by shark skin texture? I don't want a matte or flat finish, although i'm sure I could add a couple gloss layers. Do you have the exact name of the paint handy? cause I'm sure they have a couple different kinds and I want to get the right one. Another question... does it need a primer of any sort?
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:13 PM   #4577
astrolump
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KamikazeKLR View Post
So what do you mean by shark skin texture? I don't want a matte or flat finish, although i'm sure I could add a couple gloss layers. Do you have the exact name of the paint handy? cause I'm sure they have a couple different kinds and I want to get the right one. Another question... does it need a primer of any sort?
oh...it is defiantly a matte finish...i thought that is what you were going for with the plasti dip.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:16 PM   #4578
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Thats fine. I was gonna put clear on it anyway to protect the paint. So it actually shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:24 PM   #4579
hh76
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Originally Posted by astrolump View Post
I had a similar problem this summer with my 01 klr.........all signs pointed to the carb but it turned out to be a failing voltage regulator. it was overheating and shutting down at higher speeds causing bad missing. once i replaced it the problem went away and i saw a rather dramatic increase in performance than i was feeling before. i guess it was going bad for some time.

another time i had a similar problem and it turned out to be a small flying insect in the float bowl..it would plug the main jet from time to time.
One mantra I've learned when dealing with old bikes is "when it feels like a carb issue, check the electrical"

Two things water can do easily
-mess with fuel/ air
-mess with electrical connections
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:06 PM   #4580
Hessian42
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Originally Posted by Hessian42 View Post
So i'm currently in california on my "miami to patagonia trip" and i've put roughly 7 thousand miles on my 99 with no issues what so ever (totall miles 14k). Recently i started noticing a intermittent slight loss of power around the 3-5k band in any gear. To me it feels like a fuel issue though it's hard to tell. the idle is set at 1,500 but seems a bit erratic (though i blame the constant changes in altitude) The carb was soaked/cleaned and a new full kit was thrown in before i began the trip. I'm also running two .40 needle shims and drilled the slide hole. i'm running a raptor 660 petcock and threw in a iridium NGK plug at home. i run strictly 87 octane and have ran a bottle of sea foam half per full tank 2 tanks in a row at every oil change. Been changing the oil every 2k on the trip with rotella 15/40. it's always come out clean. magnetic drain plug is also clean. (doohikey and torsion spring done). thought maybe the gas cap vent might be clogging up? didn't touch it before the trip. is there more ethanol in the gas in california could this be the cause? The bike is getting about 180-200 miles per tank before reserve and i'm carrying around 80lbs of gear, i'm 210lbs fully geared up. so the millage isn't bad. not sure where to look other than breaking the carb apart and the also the gas cap.

any clues would be greatly appreciated!!!!
so to keep it fresh i quoted myself. Anyhow so it's gotten a bit worse as today in 3rd/4th anywhere below 5k it would bog bad. On a unrelated but related note my primus omni fuel stove hadn't been running as it should and this morning while breaking camp i decided to break it apart. (i run it on the same gas as the bike 87) Well there was a big ball of gummed up ethanol restricting the fuel where the fuel line meets the brass flame control knob/ valve. it was almost completely blocked. I'm wondering if my constant change of altitudes sea level to as high as 9,000ft as well as the temp fluctuations 15-70 degrees has anything to do with the ethanol doing what it did?! Anyhow i'm buying a couple of cans of carb cleaner and taking the fucker apart tonight. I'm also checking my plug just to see how she's burning and was wanting to clean out the gas cap vent system.

does anyone have a link handy for the gas cap cleaning procedure?

my petcock seems fine. i turn it off every night and it was a brand new manual raptor 660 unit when i started the trip. in any case i'm carrying a rebuild kit for it.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:55 PM   #4581
coop74
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Location: Alcoa, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent Glasscock View Post
Okay. Got the bike back this evening. Still doing the studder. The shop had photos where there was water in the air box and carb. So that was diagnosed and cleaned out. But basically between 45 to 65 it just stats to stutter for a few seconds and then clears out. It was doing it on the 25 mile ride back home. I'm taking it to the beach this weekend so I'll just deal with it. I'm now guessing valve clearance or jetting, maybe a choke thing? I ride it every day to work. This is really starting to piss me off. Thanks.
did you drain any water out of the float bowl in the carb? It is very easy to do.
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:44 AM   #4582
Kawidad
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Location: Central Coast, Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astrolump View Post
i would recommend duplicolor truck armor water based spray on truck bed liner.

once you figure out the right distance to spray it from it creates a beautiful shark skin texture and is very durable.
last weekend i painted my entire f150 super crew with it and it looks absolutely amazing. like a $5k pro murder job. every time i come out of a shop there are people petting the truck and waiting to ask where i got it painted. there is some trial and error and basic prep involved so YMMV. but it is $11 a can and you could probabably do a klr in 2-3 cans. shake the hell out of it and shake it every 30 seconds or so while spraying....buy a can and practice and it will look the bomb. many light coats are the secret...let it build over time not a few thick coats...it will run.
I did this on my side panels and it didn't work all that well. Because they are made out of flexible plastic, the liner stuff would flake off. The liner is made to attach to rigid steel and not flexible plastic. I did it several times in several different ways, including an adhesion promoter and nothing worked. In the end, I had to strip it off and go with paint.

You'd be better off with the rubberized sound deadener sprays.
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:46 AM   #4583
Kawidad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hessian42 View Post
so to keep it fresh i quoted myself. Anyhow so it's gotten a bit worse as today in 3rd/4th anywhere below 5k it would bog bad. On a unrelated but related note my primus omni fuel stove hadn't been running as it should and this morning while breaking camp i decided to break it apart. (i run it on the same gas as the bike 87) Well there was a big ball of gummed up ethanol restricting the fuel where the fuel line meets the brass flame control knob/ valve. it was almost completely blocked. I'm wondering if my constant change of altitudes sea level to as high as 9,000ft as well as the temp fluctuations 15-70 degrees has anything to do with the ethanol doing what it did?! Anyhow i'm buying a couple of cans of carb cleaner and taking the fucker apart tonight. I'm also checking my plug just to see how she's burning and was wanting to clean out the gas cap vent system.

does anyone have a link handy for the gas cap cleaning procedure?

my petcock seems fine. i turn it off every night and it was a brand new manual raptor 660 unit when i started the trip. in any case i'm carrying a rebuild kit for it.
Did you try Sea Foam or Techron or alike fuel additives? California gas blends are horrible and age very quickly. It is very easy to get bad gas in Commiefornia, especially the winter blends.
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Old 12-22-2012, 08:06 AM   #4584
DirtyDog
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Location: Tulsa... it's OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger4u2 View Post
My choke cable froze up 2 weeks ago, it would not return to the off position. Since it is not a true chock (it's a fuel enrichment circuit) it wasn't a problem driving home until I would hit a stop light. I decided to take it the way of the kick stand/ clutch safety switches. Out of the equation. I ordered the start plunger for a 2006 KLX300R (KLX300- A6F) Part # 16016- 1068. http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche...006&fveh=27705



It might take some getting used to, reaching for the carb but if you own a dirt bike or a KLK250S it won't be a problem, you've done it before. The tip looks a little different but it still works just like the original. Plunger was $23.00 compared to the cable at $16.17. I used angled needle nose pliers after removing the gas tank.
...
Independently, I just bought the same part to replace my broken choke cable.

With the IMS tank, I'm troubled that it will be a PITA to choke the bike. Also, I'm wondering if, when installed, your new choke plunger stays "out" or does the spring snap it back in? If it's difficult for me to reach AND I have to hold it out, it might be a deal-braker for me.

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Old 12-22-2012, 09:01 AM   #4585
Kawidad
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Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
Independently, I just bought the same part to replace my broken choke cable.

With the IMS tank, I'm troubled that it will be a PITA to choke the bike. Also, I'm wondering if, when installed, your new choke plunger stays "out" or does the spring snap it back in? If it's difficult for me to reach AND I have to hold it out, it might be a deal-braker for me.

No problem with either of those. It snaps into the outer position and then springs back in with just a touch of the finger. Pulling it out is kind of a pain, but pushing it back in is very easy IMO. There is no half choke as previously mentioned.
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Old 12-22-2012, 03:02 PM   #4586
Danger4u2
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Location: OKC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
Independently, I just bought the same part to replace my broken choke cable.

With the IMS tank, I'm troubled that it will be a PITA to choke the bike. Also, I'm wondering if, when installed, your new choke plunger stays "out" or does the spring snap it back in? If it's difficult for me to reach AND I have to hold it out, it might be a deal-braker for me.

It stays out. No half choke unless you hold it.
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Old 12-22-2012, 03:19 PM   #4587
SteelB12
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WTF?!! I only got 206 miles before I had to hit reserve. I didn't think I was that heavy on the throttle recently. Wonder if its something else
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Old 12-22-2012, 03:30 PM   #4588
Kawidad
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Originally Posted by SteelB12 View Post
WTF?!! I only got 206 miles before I had to hit reserve. I didn't think I was that heavy on the throttle recently. Wonder if its something else
Have you rejetted? When I switched to a KLX needle I noticed that a single clip setting affected the MPG quite significantly.
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Old 12-22-2012, 04:23 PM   #4589
SteelB12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
Have you rejetted? When I switched to a KLX needle I noticed that a single clip setting affected the MPG quite significantly.

I did that 22 cent deal 3 years ago and this is the worst gas mileage I have gotten. I didn't do any off roading, just commuting. I guess I have been heavyon the wrist and just don't remember it
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Old 12-22-2012, 06:07 PM   #4590
Aprilia
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Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
I did this on my side panels and it didn't work all that well. Because they are made out of flexible plastic, the liner stuff would flake off. The liner is made to attach to rigid steel and not flexible plastic. I did it several times in several different ways, including an adhesion promoter and nothing worked. In the end, I had to strip it off and go with paint.

You'd be better off with the rubberized sound deadener sprays.
Curious...did you encapsulate the entire plastic pieces? I ask as I have a neighbor who owns a local bed liner spray franchise and he said the only way he can get it to last on plastic bike panels is encapsulate the whole piece in a single application.
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