KLR650 Only Thread......

[slowoldguy]

Originally Posted by Randal Gobs

I will tell you this though, I love every minute I'm on my bike, it has changed my life.

lol . You are so screwed. Welcome to the asylum.

[RandoCommando]

Originally Posted by Randal Gobs

I just bought my first bike ever (KLR 650) last year when I turned 60. I haven't worked on a vehicle since I was 23. I need to ease into the maintenance, though, cause stuff like oil change, lube, adjustments etc. is just too expensive at the dealer. I want to get started. Where to begin.

e.g. My electrical system went totally hay wire the other day. Wouldn't start, no juice, so I push started it and got it going. It was at night in traffic so when I turned on turning signal, the High beam started blinking, when i hit the low beam switch the engine wanted to die and a few other wierd things started to happen. The dealer said that it was all caused by a faulty battery and $200 parts and labor for a new battery. Shame on me for not knowing more about how to work on this bike.

I will tell you this though, I love every minute I'm on my bike, it has changed my life.

The good thing: You bought one of the easiest bikes to work on.
The bad thing: You bought one of the easiest bikes to work on.
Like slowoldguy said: Welcome to the asylum.

[tommu56]

Originally Posted by Randal Gobs

I just bought my first bike ever (KLR 650) last year when I turned 60. I haven't worked on a vehicle since I was 23. I need to ease into the maintenance, though, cause stuff like oil change, lube, adjustments etc. is just too expensive at the dealer. I want to get started. Where to begin.

e.g. My electrical system went totally hay wire the other day. Wouldn't start, no juice, so I push started it and got it going. It was at night in traffic so when I turned on turning signal, the High beam started blinking, when i hit the low beam switch the engine wanted to die and a few other wierd things started to happen. The dealer said that it was all caused by a faulty battery and $200 parts and labor for a new battery. Shame on me for not knowing more about how to work on this bike.

I will tell you this though, I love every minute I'm on my bike, it has changed my life.

Start here

http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html


and the klr650 forum good guys over there too.

http://www.klr650.net/forums/index.php

tom

[Rode2Nowhere]

Originally Posted by tommu56

Start here

http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html


and the klr650 forum good guys over there too.

http://www.klr650.net/forums/index.php

tom

Don't forget KLR World as well.

[beemerjim]

I found ://www.klr650.marknet.us/ very helpful too.



Jim

[ANutt]

Originally Posted by astrolump

i forgot to mention...if you are using crash bars...then drill through is the way to go...the crashbars put a lot of stress on the upper subframe bolts....
yes sweet potato pie is dangerous...i have moved on to coconut ice cream.

Do all crash bars do this, or just certain brands?

[IDRIDR]

Originally Posted by GAS GUY

Actually, that should be fine, as that is how the stock unit works also.
I am considering this mod, I am going to have to throw my 10 gallon tank on and make sure I will be able to get to it.
Can you post a picture of it on your bike ? Also how many inchs does it stick out from the carburetor?

I didn't measure the length, but here are some images:









The pics above show the cable eliminator enricher (choke) unit purchased off fleabay recently.

[Randal Gobs]

Looks like some great info to start getting familiar with.Much appreciated. by the way, I am in Laguna Niguel, CA anyone nearby?

[Hessian42]

99 KLR headed to south america with a 205lbs rider (fully geared) and about 100lbs gear/ luggage. Already swapped the rear shock spring to a 8kg spring however the forks are untouched. I have roughly $200 to spend on the forks what's my best bet???

[TengaiJohn]

Originally Posted by Hessian42

99 KLR headed to south america with a 205lbs rider (fully geared) and about 100lbs gear/ luggage. Already swapped the rear shock spring to a 8kg spring however the forks are untouched. I have roughly $200 to spend on the forks what's my best bet???

Nothing!!! But since you gringos like to modify the heck out of your bikes I would recommend progressive front springs with Ricoh Intiminators (don't kow if there still is a discount for KLR riders). That's what I did on my front forks and I love them (250lb rider here).

Good luck on your trip and say hello to the minas (you'll get it when you reach Argentina or Uruguay)!!!!

[RideAbout]

Originally Posted by Hessian42

99 KLR headed to south america with a 205lbs rider (fully geared) and about 100lbs gear/ luggage. Already swapped the rear shock spring to a 8kg spring however the forks are untouched. I have roughly $200 to spend on the forks what's my best bet???

$12 on some BelRay 10w and $188 on Beer w/Shrimp tacos!

Seriously, the stock KLR suspension will get you there and back.... Progressive springs will help prevent bottoming while you're doing any "Ricky Bobby" hero maneuvers.

[newcastleadam]

Originally Posted by Hessian42

I have roughly $200 to spend on the forks what's my best bet???

New seals...$23
Progressive springs...$80-120
Fork oil...$8 or 25

Heard good things about the Ricor Intimidator valves, but they are ~$170-190 new. Where are you currently located?

[Hessian42]

Originally Posted by newcastleadam

New seals...$23
Progressive springs...$80-120
Fork oil...$8 or 25

Heard good things about the Ricor Intimidator valves, but they are ~$170-190 new. Where are you currently located?

i changed the fork oil to 10W before i left 8k miles ago. will be doing it again before heading south, i'll switch to belray. The seals are in good shape and i'm carrying spares so not touching those unless i have to. Was looking into the springs and maybe a fork brace. or the gold tech emulators and the fork brace. not sure which set up would be the best bang for the buck but i cant afford all three.

[Skowinski]

Originally Posted by IDRIDR

I didn't measure the length, but here are some images:



The pics above show the cable eliminator enricher (choke) unit purchased off fleabay recently.

Pardon my ignorance, but do these devices has set points, e.g. full choke and half choke, or do they slide smoothly so that you can set the choke at the level you want?

[IDRIDR]

Originally Posted by Skowinski

Pardon my ignorance, but do these devices has set points, e.g. full choke and half choke, or do they slide smoothly so that you can set the choke at the level you want?

This particular model slides smoothly from open to closed and the little nut allows adjustment of the friction. There's no "detente" feeling at open or closed. It will stay in any partial-open position.

Stead Engineering has one too. I know nothing about how it operates. http://www.steadengineering.com/prod...2&categoryId=1

Ignorance duly pardoned - no worries