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Old 07-19-2013, 08:44 AM   #7636
VikB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wansfel View Post
I dab a thin coat of rtv on the base and washer. You can get a rubber coated washer at somewhere like NAPA. DON'T over tighten...a road to disaster.
+1 - that's why I stopped and asked for ideas. I may not be a good mechanic, but I know when I'm about to do something stupid even if I don't know what the right way to proceed is.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:00 AM   #7637
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Originally Posted by beemerjim View Post
Do you have the "crush" washer in there? I put crush in quotes, 'cause it doesn't really crush much, but I haven't had a leak with mine, so I've continued using it.
+1.

Most these days are aluminum.

If copper, and you are stuck, you can soften the old copper one. Anneal it - heat 'till glowing then cool it - makes it nice and soft to take up any bolt or case shape.

The rubber coated ones I have found are one use only.
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:02 AM   #7638
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Originally Posted by VikB View Post
+1 - that's why I stopped and asked for ideas. I may not be a good mechanic, but I know when I'm about to do something stupid even if I don't know what the right way to proceed is.
Nice to see someone with a little common sense Pick up a new crush washer. As previously mentioned Napa sells one with a rubber seal. I use one from GM. Looks like these...

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Old 07-19-2013, 09:24 AM   #7639
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Okay thanks guys. I didn't realize those washers were a consumable item. I'll drop the oil tomorrow and inspect the plug and hole in the engine case. If I don't see anything obviously wrong I'll just replace the washer and see what happens.

I'll post after the weekend and let you know what happened.

I appreciate the advice...
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Old 07-19-2013, 09:44 AM   #7640
Danger4u2
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Use a torque wrench.
I don't have my book in front of me or I would post the proper torque.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:27 AM   #7641
UtahGuido
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Originally Posted by VikB View Post
Okay thanks guys. I didn't realize those washers were a consumable item. I'll drop the oil tomorrow and inspect the plug and hole in the engine case. If I don't see anything obviously wrong I'll just replace the washer and see what happens.

I'll post after the weekend and let you know what happened.

I appreciate the advice...
If you can't find them locally Fred at Arrowhead sports in Moab will mail you some. Link here. Look nine rows up from the bottom, aluminum drain plug crush washer, part #20-4538.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:49 AM   #7642
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If you can't find them locally Fred at Arrowhead sports in Moab will mail you some. Link here. Look nine rows up from the bottom, aluminum drain plug crush washer, part #20-4538.
Thanks. I have the stock oil plug that hasn't seen much use so I can always put it back in until I get the right washer for the magnetic plug.

I have a magnet in my oil filter as well so I don't really need both anyways.
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:02 AM   #7643
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Rode about 120 miles yesterday. Most two lane highway at 55-60. The last 15 or so was FS roads and I noticed when I hit the road to head back into town my speedometer stopped working. My trip /odometer hasn't worked since I.bought the bike. Im gonna remove the cable, inspect and oil it and see if it will work then. I guess it's just more reason to get the Vapor TrailTech sooner than later. Too bad my finances suck
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:28 PM   #7644
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Originally Posted by bassplayinroach View Post
Rode about 120 miles yesterday. Most two lane highway at 55-60. The last 15 or so was FS roads and I noticed when I hit the road to head back into town my speedometer stopped working. My trip /odometer hasn't worked since I.bought the bike. Im gonna remove the cable, inspect and oil it and see if it will work then. I guess it's just more reason to get the Vapor TrailTech sooner than later. Too bad my finances suck
Cheaper to fix the problem. Most are related to incorrect installation of the front tire/ODO sending unit. As for no ODO but speedo works probably time to open up the gauge cluster to look see. Again, pretty basic design/engineering.
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:05 PM   #7645
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Originally Posted by Aprilia View Post
Cheaper to fix the problem. Most are related to incorrect installation of the front tire/ODO sending unit. As for no ODO but speedo works probably time to open up the gauge cluster to look see. Again, pretty basic design/engineering.
I've greased the bottom of the cable before. U think I jumbled it loose or something on some of the bumpy off roading. I realize its cheaper to fix but I have no idea what to look for inside the cluster. Guess it's time for trial and error eh?!!
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:22 PM   #7646
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Originally Posted by VikB View Post
Okay thanks guys. I didn't realize those washers were a consumable item. I'll drop the oil tomorrow and inspect the plug and hole in the engine case. If I don't see anything obviously wrong I'll just replace the washer and see what happens.

I'll post after the weekend and let you know what happened.

I appreciate the advice...
How long since you did the oil last? If only recently, seems a bit drastic to dump it just to change the washer unless it is pouring out! Why not go ride a thousand miles or so first???

...and the torque is: 29 Nm (aka 21 ft-lb in your archaic imperial system ) although personally I've never bothered... just don't overtighten.....
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:32 PM   #7647
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Had to look that up, either I was wrong all this time or something is screwy.... Clymer's says 17 ft lbs.
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:56 PM   #7648
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If only recently, seems a bit drastic to dump it just to change the washer unless it is pouring out! Why not go ride a thousand miles or so first???

...and the torque is: 29 Nm (aka 21 ft-lb in your archaic imperial system ) although personally I've never bothered... just don't overtighten.....
A modest proposal . . . why not CATCH the relatively clean oil in a container and RE-USE it??????????????

Next, Clymer specifies oil drain plug torque as 23 N-m, or 17 ft-lb (to use the units of measure God intended), NOT 29 N-m/21 ft-lb as you post (the Clymer data for Generation 1).

The torque figure is easy to remember, because the oil drain plug has a 17 mm (as cataloged in the Godless, Communist metric sytem) hex, numerically same as the torque in ft-lb.

Generation 2 torques specs may differ.

EDIT: Didn't see SkiBumBrian's post above before I posted this one. 29 N-m/21 ft-lb might be wretched excess. If the threads are stripped, I shall have to post my OVERSIZE OIL DRAIN PLUG soliloquy!

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Old 07-19-2013, 04:41 PM   #7649
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If the threads are stripped, I shall have to post my OVERSIZE OIL DRAIN PLUG soliloquy!
Oh no! Not again!!
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:15 PM   #7650
VikB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
A modest proposal . . . why not CATCH the relatively clean oil in a container and RE-USE it??????????????

***snip***

If the threads are stripped, I shall have to post my OVERSIZE OIL DRAIN PLUG soliloquy!
Re-using the oil was my plan - it looks clean in the sight glass.

The leak is minimal now, but I'll be thinking about that leak all the time when riding so it's easier on my brain to just fix the problem and be chilled out when riding.

The threads aren't stripped. I may not be a great mechanic, but I'm not a goon. I hand thread bolts to ensure they aren't messed up when I hit them with a wrench.

Sounds like the washer is the culprit. However I will double check everything visually once I have the plug out.
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