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Old 03-18-2012, 08:40 AM   #1456
Whitebread117
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Responded on the other forum as well, but a head swap is the quickest fix. I'd strongly suggest a 685 since it's an 08. Unless you've got a huge leak somewhere on the case then you've experienced the 08 oil burning issue firsthand and need to do something to correct that or you'll be right back into the head again. 685/688/705 is the best fix for this.
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:47 AM   #1457
SkiBumBrian
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You are right. No hope for that head whatsoever.... EM cant even fix that.... If you have the cash go ahead and put a bore kit in it while you are there, at the very least inspect the cylinder walls for scoring after you pull the head. I would also get hold of Eaglemike for your head, he goes through alot of them for just this reason but if he has one on the shelf I would put my money on him before anyone else...

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I suggest emailing those pics to him so when you talk to him on the phone he already has a plan. He is a great guy, has bore kits on hand and will even phone tech for you during install if you need it, he is a great guy and a KLR genius..

Good luck, I am sorry for the damage but it will be better than new if you get the lighter piston...
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:04 AM   #1458
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You need to pull the bottom end apart too, because that's pretty substantial damage and there's a lot of bearings and whatnot in the bottom end. Not to mention, the bore. At the very least, you need to pull the clutch cover and check the oil pump screen and see what's in there. I'd also pull apart the oil filter and carefully look it over for debris.

Having said that, Engine Dynamics in SF, Ca does miracles with reconditioning top ends. He's expensive, but worth every penny compared to new or catch as catch can off of the internet. Also, your cams can be reconditioned too. There are several companies that do that, but I don't have any personal experience with them.

Good luck and keep up posted.
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:10 AM   #1459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiBumBrian View Post
You are right. No hope for that head whatsoever.... EM cant even fix that.... If you have the cash go ahead and put a bore kit in it while you are there, at the very least inspect the cylinder walls for scoring after you pull the head. I would also get hold of Eaglemike for your head, he goes through alot of them for just this reason but if he has one on the shelf I would put my money on him before anyone else...



I suggest emailing those pics to him so when you talk to him on the phone he already has a plan. He is a great guy, has bore kits on hand and will even phone tech for you during install if you need it, he is a great guy and a KLR genius..

Good luck, I am sorry for the damage but it will be better than new if you get the lighter piston...
I just sent mike a message and asked if he had a good used head. I said if he has one at a decent price I will do the 685 with a cylinder as well. We will see what he can do. I hear he is a good source.

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Old 03-18-2012, 09:12 AM   #1460
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Originally Posted by Whitebread117 View Post
Responded on the other forum as well, but a head swap is the quickest fix. I'd strongly suggest a 685 since it's an 08. Unless you've got a huge leak somewhere on the case then you've experienced the 08 oil burning issue firsthand and need to do something to correct that or you'll be right back into the head again. 685/688/705 is the best fix for this.
Yup, I agree with you. Now to find a head at a decent price....
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:29 AM   #1461
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Wow, that's a bummer Matt. I know you must feel like How many miles since you last checked the oil?

I hope that you get it sorted without too much damage to your wallet.
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:47 PM   #1462
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Originally Posted by NHMatt View Post
I just sent mike a message and asked if he had a good used head. I said if he has one at a decent price I will do the 685 with a cylinder as well. We will see what he can do. I hear he is a good source.
You are in good hands. Glad you contacted him. Not many anywhere with his experience...
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:39 PM   #1463
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I had to sell my beater car which was a 97 TBird V8. Only way wifey was gonna let this happen. Pick your battles men. I am now waiting for a few more bucks to come in then EagleMike is setting me up with a good used head with exhaust cam as well as a 685 kit. I can't wait to get that thing back together and break it back in.
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:46 PM   #1464
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Originally Posted by NHMatt View Post
I had to sell my beater car which was a 97 TBird V8. Only way wifey was gonna let this happen. Pick your battles men. I am now waiting for a few more bucks to come in then EagleMike is setting me up with a good used head with exhaust cam as well as a 685 kit. I can't wait to get that thing back together and break it back in.
He didn't ask if you wanted the 688? I'm glad he is hookin' you up. Tore my head and cylinder off today. My ported/polished head with oversized valves and 688 should be here on Wed..... Gonna be AWESOME!
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:07 PM   #1465
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I vote for engine swaps. That is why I have a low mileage extra spare US military gas KLR engine sitting in the garage--got it from the US Military. But, Ebay is a good source.

Good low mile engines can be found for 700 to 1000 dollars. Redoing an engine involves at least 600 dollars and 3 days labor or more. Swapping engines can be done in one 8 hour day.
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:02 PM   #1466
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I vote for engine swaps. That is why I have a low mileage extra spare US military gas KLR engine sitting in the garage--got it from the US Military. But, Ebay is a good source.

Good low mile engines can be found for 700 to 1000 dollars. Redoing an engine involves at least 600 dollars and 3 days labor or more. Swapping engines can be done in one 8 hour day.
Jeffery, The thing about the military auctions is you never know what you are going to get, I guess that is the same with any used motor. My engine was fine and all looked pristine, I just wanna see what I can eek out of a KLR. After break in I am gonna try to fit a Lectron carb..... It aint been cheap but what the hell? 3 days labor to do what, total disassembly? I agree, if you have bottom end problems a swap is the best bet but top end can be done in 4 hrs. I am well into 4 digits in parts and machine work on the top end. How fast do you want to spend ????
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:47 AM   #1467
NHMatt
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Jeffery, The thing about the military auctions is you never know what you are going to get, I guess that is the same with any used motor. My engine was fine and all looked pristine, I just wanna see what I can eek out of a KLR. After break in I am gonna try to fit a Lectron carb..... It aint been cheap but what the hell? 3 days labor to do what, total disassembly? I agree, if you have bottom end problems a swap is the best bet but top end can be done in 4 hrs. I am well into 4 digits in parts and machine work on the top end. How fast do you want to spend ????
Yea, I'm a complete virgin with a motor tear down and have 3hrs into the tear down. All parts bagged and tagged. I figure reassembly should take twice as long and the engine will have more cc's and power with smoother operation. Now if the military engine was a diesel, that is a different story. Me likes....
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:39 AM   #1468
WRC51
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Originally Posted by nakedwaterskier View Post
I vote for engine swaps. That is why I have a low mileage extra spare US military gas KLR engine sitting in the garage--got it from the US Military. But, Ebay is a good source.

Good low mile engines can be found for 700 to 1000 dollars. Redoing an engine involves at least 600 dollars and 3 days labor or more. Swapping engines can be done in one 8 hour day.
I agree with naked, if you do the upper end and the lower is toast you have wasted the coast of the kit.(If you where to lose the lower crank bearing or rod bearing there goes the new cylinder and piston) With just maybe a half quart of oil left in the engine bearings, journals and other parts where not getting lubed.I didnt know that you could get used engines for that price, thats not to bad and even if you put a 685 or 688 kit on it you arent into it that much. Best of luck.
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:46 AM   #1469
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I drove all the way to Barstow to check out the military engines before the auction.
I got the best 2 and sold 1.

If you bother checking out the engines before you buy them, you won't get a surprise.
The engines I got both had like new oil in them; probably the original oil fill. The plugs didn't
look brand new; but, less than a thousand miles.

The one I took had a countershaft sprocket and nut that looked brand new. The one I sold
was similar but looked like it sat outside for a couple of months. There were no boot scuffs on
the side cases. Oh, and they came with great condition frames to help move em.

It basically cost me 960 dollars for the two engines and I sold one for 700 dollars and discovered uship.com (from an another KLRista) and got the guy cheap shipping. The guy who bought the other engine from me is extremely happy.

My engine sits in the garage awaiting a major problem with my existing engine.
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:56 AM   #1470
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Great buy! I will have to keep my eyes and ears open for some auctions in my area, I want an engine to attempt to build a KLR stroker.......
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