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Old 04-16-2012, 04:02 PM   #391
BC Brian OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockyDS View Post
Now that's what I call haggling!

Wait a minute - no it isn't.

Goo to see you back anyway.

Trev.
Yeah, they love me here

What's that in your sig line? A Super Tenere?

How is it?

Is it awesome?

I want one!

I bet its awesome.........................
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:28 PM   #392
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What, no picture of the fabulous hair cut? Some of us forgot what that's like. (See actual photo ---> )

Glad you were able to get back down south. I'm about your age and I'm realizing lately that nature could swing her hammer of doom down on me any day. I need to get on the road...
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:29 PM   #393
NWT John
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Glad to see your back on the road Bro. Its - 22 c here this morning and my 600 is still behind 6 feet of snow.
Have a great ride and watch out for the local girls!!!
Keep in touch
John
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:47 PM   #394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC Brian View Post
Yeah, they love me here

What's that in your sig line? A Super Tenere?

How is it?

Is it awesome?

I want one!

I bet its awesome.........................
Awesome indeed.
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Super Ténéré
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:14 PM   #395
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Days 50 and 51 April 16 and 17 256 kms Puerto Escondido to Salina Cruz

I still needed to change my tranny oil, and I wanted to buy liability insurance for the rest of my time in Mexico, so in the morning I told the guy uno noche mas, por favor. I headed out to find oil, and the first oil shop had what I needed. I went back to my bike, and with the help of the hostel staff, found a suitable container to drain my old oil into (modified 2 liter pop bottle). After I was done with that, I was off to find a Seguro (insurance) agent. I had spotted one near the oil shop, but it was closed when I went by. I gathered up all my papers and headed out to see if it was open. After a bit of a wait in the scorching sun, I was able to get into the storefront Seguro agency to see the guy. Lo siento, senior, no tenemos seguro para motos. Muy peligroso. (Sorry sir, we don’t have insurance for motorbikes. They are too dangerous)

Crap.

I still had the insurance papers from my insurance last winter, so I went online to buy insurance there. Hmmm. They don’t list bikes on their website. I call the number, get Darlene, who was very helpful, and she got me to another page on their site, and told me I should be fine. Got half way through the process. No bikes listed, just cars.

Crap

Call her back and she says no problem, and does it for me on her system. She e-mails me the policy, and my vehicle is on the policy listed as a 2008 Acura.

Crap

After a bunch of e-mails and a few phone calls, we got it all straightened out, and now I have insurance, a crappy medical policy ( I already have a GOOD medical policy) and road side assistance (I am curious how well Mexican road side assistance works), all for the same price.

After all that, I went for lunch at the hamburger bar next door, then went for my daily nap.

I thought I would head out and check out one of the beaches not far from where I was staying. In the parking lot I saw this slightly modified VW


There were a few stairs down to the beach.



I sat on beach for a while watching the waves roll in.



Walking down the stairs in the heat was pretty nice, but walking back up was a different story. When I got back to the hostel, I was pretty much out of water, so I went for a walk down to the local tiende for a bottle of water, and I looked in the freezer and I saw………... coconut ice cream. Inmate Bent Iron and his better half had turned me on to coconut ice-cream when I was here before, and since then, whenever I walk by a freezer section in any store, in any town, in any country, I look for it. I had never found it again until now. As far as I know, Puerto Escondido is the only place on the planet you can buy coconut ice-cream. So I bought a liter of it, headed back to the hostel, sat by the pool and ate the whole thing. ( I might have saved some for later, but the fridge at the hostel didn’t work(yeah, that’s it))



With all that ice-cream sitting in my stomach, it was time for another nap.

When I got up, it was about supper time, so I headed off to find some food. I found a nice little place down the street, and this friendly little guy kept me company while I was eating.




I wanted to get an early start the next day to beat the heat. I wasn’t really sure where I was headed for, but I had looked at a map and saw a town called Salina Cruz on it. Now, that sounds like a nice name. Salina Cruz. It kind of rolls off the tongue nice. Salina Cruz.
After I had all my gear packed up and ready to load on the bike, I went online to check out Salina Cruz. Hmmmmm wiki travel didn’t list it, Wikipedia talked about it being a port town and an oil refinery town, but not much else. So I looked at a few more sites, and it seems people didn’t like it much. Some of the forums said things like “it’s a Sh*thole, why would you want to go there “ in response to other readers’ questions. Or, “there is nothing to see there”,” it’s dangerous at night”,” there are so many better places to travel to in the area”. Stuff like that. No one had anything positive to say about it.

So my mind was made up. I loaded up and headed towards Salina Cruz.

I stopped for a few breaks along the way









I rolled into town and it didn’t look too bad. I found a room, paid more than I am used to paying ($43), but it had hot water, air conditioning, secure parking and cable TV.

I went for a walk, and it seemed like a pretty typical Mexican city.









There were lots of markets, in fact most of the streets I walked along were lined with them along the sidewalks. But not trinkets and souvenirs like some places. There weren’t any gringos wandering around in Bermuda shorts and floppy hats, so the markets weren’t geared towards them. It’s a really neat, vibrant, busy little city. (at least in the areas I saw)

I don’t know what all the “Nay Sayers” online were talking about. Maybe they don’t like it because there isn’t miles of sandy beaches lined with hotels and people trying to forcibly sell you stuff every minute and a half

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Old 04-19-2012, 05:20 AM   #396
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C'mon Brian send us something, I'm getting a little worried.
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Old 04-19-2012, 06:00 AM   #397
BC Brian OP
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Originally Posted by ChevalDeFer View Post
What, no picture of the fabulous hair cut? Some of us forgot what that's like. (See actual photo ---> )

Glad you were able to get back down south. I'm about your age and I'm realizing lately that nature could swing her hammer of doom down on me any day. I need to get on the road...
Thats a pretty good likeness of you. I think?

Yes, you should defineatly get on the road. Road = awesome
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Old 04-19-2012, 06:05 AM   #398
BC Brian OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWT John View Post
Glad to see your back on the road Bro. Its - 22 c here this morning and my 600 is still behind 6 feet of snow.
Have a great ride and watch out for the local girls!!!
Keep in touch
John
-22C and still 6 feet of snow in the back yard?

hmmmm........Snow suit and studded tires?

Hasta luego hermano.
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:58 AM   #399
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Day 52 April 18 376 kms Salina Cruz to San Cristobal de las Casas

Again, I planned on getting up early to beat the heat. When I got up at about 7:30, it was already 28C outside. I guess beating the heat wasn’t gonna happen J

I wanted to head inland to San Cristobal de las Casas, and I looked on google maps and it was just under 400 kms. I have come to the realization that distances are a lot further here than at home, and with traffic, topes and stopping and looking around, I pretty much have to double my expected travel time compared to what I would expect at home.

I got gas, and stopped at the store at the gas station. I got a bottle of water and a snack, went out to the parking lot to have a drink and eat the snack, and immediately was told I had to leave by the grumpy security guard. Apparently you are not allowed to be in the parking lot after you leave the store. So I tried smiling at him. He stayed grumpy. I tried joking with him. He stayed grumpy. I tried talking with him as I got on my bike. He stayed grumpy. I thanked him very nicely, told him to have a nice day, and said goodbye. He stayed grumpy. I hope he has a better day tomorrowJ

I rode as far as Tehuantepec (about 20 kms) and stopped at the tourist info booth……..to eat my snack and drink some water. The people there were great, and told me what there was to see in town, and that I could take a 2 hour hike with a guide to see some Mayan ruins. I would have loved to do that, but you had to leave earlier in the morning. Oh well, maybe next time.

I went down town to check out the square they talked about, and wandered around for a bit.





I had noticed an older man when I got to the square. He was kind of watching me, and said “buenas dias” to me as I got off the bike. I wandered around, and sat down on a park bench in the shade, and he came up to me, buenas dias again, and gave me a fist bump. He sat down and started talking with me. He had no English, but with my limited Spanish, we had a great conversation. We talked about the town, and where I was from, where was I going (my standard answer is lo no se ( I don’t know)) and about my bike. Normal stuff I talk about with locals. I told him how much I loved Mexico, and how his area was the best. It seems, from what I could understand, that he went to Canada by boat when he was a young man. I got up to leave, and he asked me for some change. Turns out he was a panhandler, but with a twist I liked. I have given quite a bit of money to panhandlers and such, and after getting to know him for a few minutes, I happily gave him some pesos.

Away I went. The land opened up and it got pretty windy. Windy enough that there were wind farms






I rode along in the heat stopping a couple of times when I would see a pullout with shade.

Typical Mexican rest stop


I got a little bit lost near Tapanatepec. Got that figured out and headed up into the mountains. And I mean up. And up, and twisties, and up, and more twisties. It was great. And it started to cool off. Which was also great J

Got into Tuxtla Gutierrez, and it was getting hot again. Tuxtla Gutierrez is a pretty big place and the traffic is brutal. Coming into town, there are a lot of vendors walking around in the traffic at stoplights, trying to sell their wares. At one, there was a young window cleaner, who asked if I wanted him to clean my windshield. I told him no thank you, then he started in. Oh come on, please, I have a family, I am hungry, and held his belly ( his belly didn`t look like he had missed many meals) so I grabbed my belly and laughed, and he laughed, so I gave him a few pesos NOT to wash my windshield J.

There were lots of lights going through town, and the traffic was really heavy. I was stopped at a light, and a cab driver beside me starts asking about the bike (no English) the light turned, and then at the next light, he pulled up beside me, leaving a couple car lengths in front of him.(people were honking. He didn`t even hear them) This went on for quite a few blocks We bs`d about bikes, and the town, and where I was from and where I was going. He told me about the road to San Cristobal. It was lots of fun.

I had seen on the map that the old road between Tuxtla and San Cristobal was a really twisty mountain road, but I felt I had dicked around long enough and wanted to get to town before dark J, so I took the toll highway to San Cristobel, and it was awesome. New pavement, up the mountain, lots of long curves, and I could fly. The speed limit is 110 kmh (apparently that is the “suggested”speed) and I actually got to use 5th gear.

I got into town, and went to do my normal, “find downtown and look around” thing. I got parked, and a guy imediatley comes up and starts asking about the bike. I told him I had very little Spanish, and he started talking to me in his limited English. Cool. He asked me the normal bike questions, how big, how much did it cost. He said that was a lot of money for a Mexican, I must be rich. I told him I was poor and needed to find a cheap hotel. So he helps me out, running around for me translating for me. I told him I was hungry, so he helped me find a great little restaurant with good food, cheap. After he made sure I was OK, he said goodbye and wandered off. What a nice guy.


My hotel. $15 a night


After I got set up in my room, I went out for a walk around town.





There was a band playing in the square, and people dancing










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Old 04-19-2012, 08:03 AM   #400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBaloo22 View Post
C'mon Brian send us something, I'm getting a little worried.

The previous post is dedicated to BOBaloo22
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Old 04-20-2012, 01:15 PM   #401
Steve and Lisa World
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Forgot to warn ya

Re:Guatemala Everywhere we turned lots of military convoys and policia locals
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Old 04-20-2012, 03:31 PM   #402
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Old 04-20-2012, 09:23 PM   #403
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Days 53 and 54 April 19 and 20 110 kms San Cristobal de las Casas to Comitan de Dom

I had a pretty laid back day in San Cristobal. I slept in, walked down into the more touristy area for breakfast, and spent most of the day walking around town and sitting in the main plaza watching the world go by.


This guy was entertaining kids (and adults) in front of a store.


More colonial architecture.


I wandered back to my hotel just in time for a nap, then went down to a little restaurant I had eaten in when I first got to town. I was getting pretty hungry and it was only a block from the hotel, and the food was pretty darned good.

I have been having a pretty interesting time ordering food. A lot of time I have no idea what I am ordering. Ok, I know basically, chicken, pork, beans, fish, but sometimes it’s a crap shoot as to how it will be prepared. Tonight was going to be different. I had my handy dandy iPhone Spanish dictionary app with me, and tonight the menu had pictures. No surprises for me tonight.

Ha

Like I said, I know the basic foods, (any Spanish speakers reading this…. Stay with me…) and I saw on the menu something called Caldo de pollo, and directly under it was a nice color picture of what looked like fried chicken with fries and a salad. I haven’t had fried chicken for quite a while. But… I have been fooled before, so I whip out my handy dandy iPhone app and look up caldo. Well, I must have clicked the wrong word, and clicked on caldos (really, how different could it be) and “caldos” came up as “Oil”, “Greasy liquid” etc, etc. So I figure that must be how they say deep fried (I know fried is frito and chicken is pollo) but things sometimes don’t make a lot of sense to me.

So I order the Caldo de Pollo and sit back sipping on my coke, watching the sidewalk and thinking about my deep fried chicken. The waitress shows up with my food, and puts this in front of me.



Turns out Caldos is oil, and caldo is broth. I figure, well, I got it in front of me, so I dug in, and it was really good. And, I have 2 more words in my vocabulary that I will never forget.

I get up the next morning, pack up my gear and head out to the bike, and sitting next to my bike is a KLR with Texas plates.


Cool, I wouldn’t mind meeting the rider of the KLR, so I load up, and wait around for a while, and no sign of him. I thought about asking the receptionist what room the rider was in, but figured it might have been a late night, so I left a note on the bike and hit the road. I was planning to cross into Guatemala the next morning, and figured I would have a nice, leisurely ride as far as Ciudad Cuauhtemoc, get a room and cross first thing in the morning.
So I went to the gas station, got gas, bought a snack in the store, went outside to eat the snack, and….. no problem. No grumpy security guard or nothing. Visited with some young guys in the parking lot for a bit (and really screwed up my Spanish) and headed out. Rode as far as Comitan de Domniguez, and as I was riding through, I thought this is a pretty nice looking place. I stopped at a mall to pick up a couple of things, and grabbed a sandwich at the food court. They had free wifi, so I thought I would look up the town online. It looked pretty neat, and I had lots of time, so I rode into el Centro for a look around. It seemed like a pretty nice place, and Ciudad Cuauhtemoc didn’t look too impressive on the map, so I started looking for a room. On one of the sites about the town they mentioned a place called “Hotel Hacienda de los Angeles” They said it was the only “Luxury” hotel in town, and I walked right by it. It looked pretty nice, so I thought, just for kicks, I would go in and see how much it was. 805 Pesos. Holy Crap. 805 pesos…. For one night. Ouch!! Then I thought, that’s, like, just over $60. I spent more than that in crappy motels in California. I had been checking my budget the night before, and was well under budget, so I thought, what they heck.

Hotel Hacienda de los Angeles


The towels folded neatly on my bed.


I got all moved in and went for a walk and took more pictures of…… you got it, Plazas and churches.










I visited for a bit with this fellow


I hung out for quite a while in the Plaza, watching the world go by, visiting with locals and giving a few Canada souvenirs to children.

Went back down town later for a bite to eat, ordered enchiladas moles and got pretty much what I had expected (only with a green salad on top)

Oh, and the KLR rider got my note and PM’d me J
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:12 AM   #404
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how is it going

looks like a good time
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Old 04-21-2012, 02:45 PM   #405
BC Brian OP
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Originally Posted by Steve and Lisa World View Post
Re:Guatemala Everywhere we turned lots of military convoys and policia locals
Thanks S & L world

I am in Quetzaltenango now, and yes, I saw lots of Military, police, cows, horses potholes, chicken, pigs and children on the road.

Its evverything you said it would be, incuding mudslides...
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