WP48 - Changing Fork Seals

[Konflict Motorsports]

Originally Posted by Johnf3

The bushings and the seals are identical between the closed chamber and open chamber WP forks. So, yes the kit I referenced will work. Like I said, the kit is designed for WP CC forks, so it has a few extra small seals meant to rebuild the cartridge seal that the open chamber forks on the Adventure do not have. There may be a SKF kit that KTM sells for open chamber, but I do not know the part number if there is one.

You will have 2 extra seals left over (the small damping rod purple seals) otherwise its the same. Its a great price for what you get! There was a major B/O on these a while back, some dealers are still having issue's getting them.

[Johnf3]

Originally Posted by McVick

I also found it difficult to tighten the cartridge back into the bottom of the fork leg.
It threaded into the piston rod just fine but getting it as tight as necessary is a bit of a trick.

The WP manual says to bend the piston rod a bit by pushing it to the side and holding it while you tighten the cartridge but even doing that I am concerned it is not as tight as it should be. Spec is 25nm but I do not have my torque wrench with me.

Brian

An easy trick is to slide the fork spring in and then invert the fork so the compression valve is facing up at you. Put your 19mm socket on the compression valve and press down as you tighten the valve body. The spring pressure from the fork spring will keep enough force on everything so it tightens right up. Don't overtighten your compression valve!

[Peanuts]

Originally Posted by UngaWunga

Bam! thanks

http://www.ktm-parts.com/R14020.html

Hmm... while those are listed as a kit for SXS WP 48mm, all the rebuild kits listed for 950/990 advs have different (lower) numbers. Is that number correct? Just want to double check. I have to tear down my forks this winter because one of the adjusters is stuck, might as well replace seals while I'm in there. Thanks.

No need to touch the seals to sort out an adjuster. In fact no need to remove the cartridge. Base valve unscrews out the bottom. Cap unscrews off the top, then hold the cartridge with a 8mm or slimmer wrench, then undo the cap off the cartridge by undoing via the preload hex.

Make sure the ally tube in the centre of the cartridge is almost flush as its a common mistake to assemble the cap onto the cartridge when the ally tube is not correctly seated. Also make sure the black plastic needle in the cap fits into the ally tube as your place the cap onto the cartridge.

[UngaWunga]

Originally Posted by Peanuts

No need to touch the seals to sort out an adjuster. In fact no need to remove the cartridge. Base valve unscrews out the bottom. Cap unscrews off the top, then hold the cartridge with a 8mm or slimmer wrench, then undo the cap off the cartridge by undoing via the preload hex.

Make sure the ally tube in the centre of the cartridge is almost flush as its a common mistake to assemble the cap onto the cartridge when the ally tube is not correctly seated. Also make sure the black plastic needle in the cap fits into the ally tube as your place the cap onto the cartridge.

Thanks for the tips.

[KTMSER]

Originally Posted by McVick

Wow,
that's a good deal for just about a complete service kit.

Not really, check this out.....

http://www.thousandoaksyamaha.com/fi...tnumber=R14020

[SikDMAX]

Bumping this up.... having a bitch of a time getting the last bushing to seat putting the inner tube back on the outer - even tried heating as the recommend for removal. Any ideas?

[Johnf3]

Originally Posted by SikDMAX

Bumping this up.... having a bitch of a time getting the last bushing to seat putting the inner tube back on the outer - even tried heating as the recommend for removal. Any ideas?

I always use my seal driver to tap the bushing into place before I tap the fork seal into place. It just takes a few light taps, very light taps. If yours is not going together easily something else is wrong. You sure your bushing is the correct one?