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Old 10-16-2014, 11:46 AM   #1
NYTrainer OP
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Broken bolt AND extractor!

I twisted off one of the bolts that hold the exhaust into my DER 650 Suzuki cylinder head.
Tried heating the bolt, used vise grips. No go.
Welded a nut onto what was left of the the stud, still no go.
Ground it flush, centered punched the stud, drilled it out & then broke off the square-edged extractor!
Bought a kit with a high-zot drill/extractor...cannot drill out the extractor.

Besides the obvious last resort...buying a new/used cylinder head, does anyone have any suggestions?
Any help will be appreciated!
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Old 10-16-2014, 12:06 PM   #2
filmfan
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The broken extractor is probably hardened, drilling isn't likely an option.
Take the head to a shop that does EDM machining?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electri...arge_machining

I've read that it's very effective for getting broken taps out, which is essentially the same problem you have.
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Old 10-16-2014, 12:16 PM   #3
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About the only thing I know that will drill an extractor is a solid carbide bit. They aren't cheap but it is probably cheaper than the EDM option.
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Old 10-16-2014, 12:42 PM   #4
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An oxy-acetylene cutting torch will remove the steel but leave the aluminum alone.
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Old 10-16-2014, 12:46 PM   #5
mampula
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Acid is your friend

Question: Is this an aluminum head?

If so, Nitric Acid will dissolve the steel without touching the aluminum. I had roughly the same series of events occur on my oilhead BMW. But I broke three of the suckers. Ended up drilling out the threads and installing helicoils. The galvanic reaction degraded the quality of the aluminum threads to the point that I felt better not relying on them.

The process is not fast. Might take a week of adding a few drops in the morning before work, as soon as you get home, and right before bed. Clean the residue out with a q-tip or rag just prior to application of fresh acid. The easyout will come out in a day or so, as soon as the acid reduces the contact between that and the stud. The rest of the stud will slowly dissolve until you can back out the slivers of the threads, or collapse the entire stud as it gets thinner.

Don't get the acid on your skin, and protect the surrounding surface with rags. Modeling clay can be used to create a dam around the area to keep the acid where you want it.

Acid was cheap. Think I paid about $20 for what I hope will be a lifetime supply.

If the head is steel, I got nuthin'...
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Old 10-16-2014, 12:52 PM   #6
MrPulldown
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In my experience. If you twist the head off a bolt trying to remove it, DO not try to extract the broken bolt. It will never come out and you will break the extractor in the bolt. The extractor is smaller than the bolt the head of the extractor is smaller than the bolt. You should just drill out the bolt. Many times the bolt get broken up and you can use the existing threads. If not you can drill and tap to the next size up or repair with a helicoil.

At this point you might be able to grind out the extractor with a carbide bit if the extractor was hardened steel. Then drill out the remaining bits of bolt.

Otherwise. Wire EDM is the only real option.
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Old 10-16-2014, 03:49 PM   #7
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Stud

Been an engineer for many years now, and sympathise with your plight. Easi Outs are the one tool which has the most incorrect name of all. Only had success with them once, when a broken stud could be moved in its hole. Dont know why it broke really. As a previouds reply says, if the easi out is smaller than the stuck stud, you have no chance!
Take the head off and go t an engineering firm which does Spark Eroding. Will charge about 15. Only way to do it.
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Old 10-16-2014, 06:35 PM   #8
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I can confirm that an oxy/acetylene torch will burn out the steel and mostly leave the aluminum mostly alone. might still need a helicoil


if someone near by has an EDM thats the easy way
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:53 PM   #9
GoNOW
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I use a plasma cutter. I found it does a nice job of vaporizing the metal without putting too much heat into the surrounding metal. Just go slow, zap it, pick out the bits with a screw drivers, zap it again, and work your way into the hole. Depending on how careful you are, an insert may be required later.
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:54 PM   #10
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mampula wins... buy a Tap X kit
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Old 10-17-2014, 08:20 AM   #11
KeithinSC
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Any room and access to weld a nut onto the remains?
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Old 10-17-2014, 09:30 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithinSC View Post
Any room and access to weld a nut onto the remains?

Go back a reread the OPs first post.
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Old 10-17-2014, 09:33 AM   #13
Navy Chief
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Add another vote for Tap X...

Or remove the head, take it to a machine shop, and pay the bill...
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Old 10-17-2014, 05:23 PM   #14
H86250R
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easy fix

In my shop there are 2 options

1. A few sizes of left hand carbide tipped drills...incrementally drill out stud(must be perfectly centered) as you get close to thread minimum diameter , stud or bolt can occasionally back out but if it doesn't turn you must continue drilling until thread minimum diameter is reached...at this point the drill should extract coil of thread resembling a heli coil...if you can achieve this result you can just chase the female thread of the head

2. Remove head, place it in a milling machine and mill /drill out broken stud or bolt with a carbide endmill...
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Old 10-19-2014, 07:47 AM   #15
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Thanks for all of the info, I will let you know how I make out.
If I have to pull the motor/head...Big bore kit/cam will be a part of the reassembly.
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