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Old 12-30-2011, 04:39 PM   #1
Reista OP
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Location: San Antonio, TX
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Changing left hand controls

Okay so i bought This LH control switch (diagram in description) to replace the 1982 gs850 left hand controls which were blown all to heck. OKAY - My horn works great, my headlight works great! Alas, I have six wires for my original turn signal switch, and only 3 for my new one. How to i remedy this?

a 3 pole double throw?
A triple throw 2 pole?
Whaaa? Or can I jimmy it together?
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Old 12-31-2011, 12:58 AM   #2
arcanum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reista View Post
Okay so i bought This LH control switch (diagram in description) to replace the 1982 gs850 left hand controls which were blown all to heck. OKAY - My horn works great, my headlight works great! Alas, I have six wires for my original turn signal switch, and only 3 for my new one. How to i remedy this?

a 3 pole double throw?
A triple throw 2 pole?
Whaaa? Or can I jimmy it together?
First thing I would do is get a battery charger to test out the old wires that the switch connects to. You could supply power and ground to the "extra " wires and find out what they do. Make a mistake at 2 amps or so,and the wires do not melt. You can also test out each wire as to whether they are hot or ground by using a multimeter and ground one end of those six wires to the bike at a grounding point like the engine case,and then you know that it is a ground. This is not 100% reliable,because the OEM ground point could be the switch itself and a switch is not always active
A wiring diagram for your bike is also a very good thing. When you have the color code of the wires,follow the wires to the end of the run and you should get a pretty good feel for what they do and which wires are + and -
On a positive note,those metal bodied switches look like a very good value. I am currently trying to rebuild a starter button and also the original kill switch by blending new components with the old inside a very small area on the right handlebar. The switch housing is part of the throttle controls as well,so I have to make it work somehow.
I hope this helps a little. If I had a bike like yours,I might have been able to help more.also remember that many people make the mistake of assuming that switches control hot wires. On my Honda,most of my switches just complete the circuit to ground
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Old 12-31-2011, 07:41 AM   #3
Reista OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arcanum View Post
First thing I would do is get a battery charger to test out the old wires that the switch connects to. You could supply power and ground to the "extra " wires and find out what they do. Make a mistake at 2 amps or so,and the wires do not melt. You can also test out each wire as to whether they are hot or ground by using a multimeter and ground one end of those six wires to the bike at a grounding point like the engine case,and then you know that it is a ground. This is not 100% reliable,because the OEM ground point could be the switch itself and a switch is not always active
A wiring diagram for your bike is also a very good thing. When you have the color code of the wires,follow the wires to the end of the run and you should get a pretty good feel for what they do and which wires are + and -
On a positive note,those metal bodied switches look like a very good value. I am currently trying to rebuild a starter button and also the original kill switch by blending new components with the old inside a very small area on the right handlebar. The switch housing is part of the throttle controls as well,so I have to make it work somehow.
I hope this helps a little. If I had a bike like yours,I might have been able to help more.also remember that many people make the mistake of assuming that switches control hot wires. On my Honda,most of my switches just complete the circuit to ground
I have the diagram but I don't think I'm allowed to post it due to forum rules. One switch is ... Here I'll make a diagram with what I can.

[][][][] (A copper T supplies negative to itself in center represented by []'s
0-[]-0 (goes across them. The 0's are leads to ground for the signals. This switch will work fine with the one i got.

Part 2: This switch needs to be synced with the other one and has NO T meaning that it has 6 individual contact points to be made

0-0-0
0-0-0

four wires go to this switch, Y/O 12v fused, B left signal something, B/W ground, G/B goes to control unit- connects to 12v on both turn signals (flasher relay?), Br/Y Central contact point that goes to ground (running lights?)

The wires for the one with the T above are Blue (hot line from relay), Black (left), and Green (right)
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Old 12-31-2011, 07:46 AM   #4
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Is the second switch for my turn signal canceler? I do have one and i don't really know if it works and i personally don't care if it's gone. If that is what the one without the T is for could i just ditch it all together?
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:24 AM   #5
arcanum
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You lost me-------------------------------------
I figure that of the three wires that you have left, the grey wire feeds the two legs [rt and left turn signals] What i do not know is on your bike,which wires are the + and - going into the turn signals.

In testing the switch itself,hook one leg of your cont. checker to the grey wire and switch the signal switch to right or left. The light blue one will show cont. for the rt turn and the orange for left. Tell me it that is the case.
Now for the problems that you have to solve. When you activate the flasher unit, you need to know if the output of the unit is + or - The secret to knowing easily is to get a cheap LED and ground the white [ground] wire coming out of the LED to the bike frame and touch the other[black or red] wire to the output of the flasher unit. If it flashes,that means that the output of the flasher is a + or a 'hot' wire. I would really hope that you can find a negative output from the relay that can be made to flash. In that case, the red or black wire from the LED is clipped to the battery + post and the white wire is connected to the flasher output proving . If the LED will not flash at all,you need to add a conventional light bulb to the flasher unit to enable it to light the LED.
That is as far as I am gonna go for now. I need the results of your tests. BTW, the cool thing about the LED lights is that they are protected against burning out if the wires are reversed. That is why they make a good polarity tester as well as a test lamp.

arcanum screwed with this post 01-02-2012 at 09:44 AM
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:37 AM   #6
Reista OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arcanum View Post
You lost me-------------------------------------
I figure that of the three wires that you have left, the grey wire feeds the two legs [rt and left turn signals] What i do not know is on your bike,which wires are the + and - going into the turn signals.

In testing the switch itself,hook one leg of your cont. checker to the grey wire and switch the signal switch to right or left. The light blue one will show cont. for the rt turn and the orange for left. Tell me it that is the case.
Now for the problems that you have to solve. When you activate the flasher unit, you need to know if the output of the unit is + or - The secret to knowing easily is to get a cheap LED and ground the white [ground] wire coming out of the LED to the bike frame and touch the other[black or red] wire to the output of the flasher unit. If it flashes,that means that the output of the flasher is a + or a 'hot' wire. I would really hope that you can find a negative output from the relay that can be made to flash. In that case, the red or black wire from the LED is clipped to the battery + post and the white wire is connected to the flasher output proving . If the LED will not flash at all,you need to add a conventional light bulb to the flasher unit to enable it to light the LED.
That is as far as I am gonna go for now. I need the results of your tests
I've already handled it actually, thanks for the thoughtful reply! I'm sorry I didn't post that i had this solved. Here's what I did.



I had pretty much ALL of the colors down and marked- I knew what they were except for the O, B/G, and Br/Y wires. I knew the O wire was important because it was the only 12 non-relay going in, I figured it powered the relay and the relay sent a line back (light blue wire on left) to be the power for 2 grounds left and right. after studying the wiring diagram some more I figured since there was a link between O and B/G I might as well wire them together non-switched, that fixed the problem right up. The brown and yellow I think is the turn signal canceler wire which I abandoned. Thanks once again for the reply ^^ cheers
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