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Old 04-29-2012, 04:35 PM   #16
hillbillypolack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
They have loaded the low octane map on yours to cure the pinging. Its motorrad sa's instruction to dealers when a client complains about pinging. They have done it to mine as well. It was removed after bitter complaints about the lack of performance. Mine would peg out at 180 kph, down from 205

The missing when blipping I feel is caused by the acoustic flap in the exhausting trying to react. It needs to close and open rapidly and when it doesn't react quickly enough, it cuts spark (assumption only, but seems to be feasible). Mine did it before I bypassed the flap. If you get inconsistent power when running on small opening through corners, your exhaust flap is likely to blame. The cables can stretch. You can also recalibrate it with a GS911 (or the dealer, obviously). Mine would just last for a couple of weeks before giving crap again, that's why I have removed mine.

It will impact on torque up to about 2500 rpm (butt feel), but the dip 4500 - 5000 rpm will be gone.
What was the result when you removed the flap?

I'd heard there is an Akra system that doesn't use the flap and performs well, so I'm curious to hear your thoughts on performance etc.
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:10 PM   #17
Bill the Bong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillbillypolack View Post
What was the result when you removed the flap?

I'd heard there is an Akra system that doesn't use the flap and performs well, so I'm curious to hear your thoughts on performance etc.
Firstly it gives an error code - the code says that the flap stop was not reached. If you have a dealer that would have an issue with that during a warrentee claim, its probably not a good idea.

I removed the controller box and the cables. The flap defaults to an open position when the cables are removed. I wire tied it so that it could not close under load. The spring is plenty strong, but I don't want to take chances with something that takes 3 minutes. I did not remove the flap completely, but I figure that the restriction is minimal.

My main issue was pinging during accelleration between 4500 - 5500 rpm. My bike is a really strong performer, so it most likely has a bit more advance than most. The flap closes partially at 4500 rpm to allow these bikes to pass the noise emmisions test. You can feel the power dip in that area. When I would strongly accellerate from 4500 rpm, it would ping immediately. That is now significantly better.

There is no hunting anymore at steady throttle at those rpms. In addition, the on-off throttle feeling at low openings when cruising around a round-about is gone.

Low down torque is less but its much cleaner through the rest of the rev range. It feels just like a hot 1150 with a cat-elim y-pipe and an akra slip-on.

Sorry for the hi-jack.
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Old 05-02-2012, 03:47 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by JKGREEN View Post
Are you sure it is the belt? Mine did the same thing and turned out to the alternator. When turning the alternator by hand cw to ccw and back and forth there was a slight tapping noise - much louder when the bike was started up cold..
Well, according to my Beemer shop they changed this belt, when I got the bike back this noise was gone. It is back currently and I think I should discuss this with them again, just in case it's the start of a bigger issue.
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Old 05-02-2012, 03:55 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
They have loaded the low octane map on yours to cure the pinging. Its motorrad sa's instruction to dealers when a client complains about pinging.
When I questioned if they changed the fuel mapping I was told, "we cannot load a specific map, BMW head office have control, we just plug it into the computer and it connects to the main computer and the software gets updated, we don't know what mapping is used".

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
The missing when blipping I feel is caused by the acoustic flap in the exhausting trying to react.
It's definitely not missing (ie. no spark) it is a definite pre-ignition fire (the spark occurs before the piston is at TDC and hence stops further movement of the piston and detonates through the open valve). I can feel it through the bikes frame when it happens, even at 140km/h through the twisties.
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Old 05-09-2012, 04:27 AM   #20
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Bluhduh DOHC calibration tool

Just another update on this issue. I have had my 2011 R1200GSA back at BMW for this pre-ignition/detonation/pinging issue and this time there is a definite improvement in engine behaviour and fuel consumption. What was done this time was to 'reset' the DOHC's with a special BMW precision tool (a metal plate with two square holes in it) which is used to ensure the two cams are exactly positioned correctly. They were slightly out, both sides. I may add that this was checked 2 weeks earlier and had moved since, despite been correctly torqued.

Below is a pic of the DOHC with a sketch of what this tool looks like and where it is used.

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Old 05-09-2012, 07:04 AM   #21
JimVonBaden
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Having never looked at the attachment points on the cam/camchains, I am surprised they can "move" at all. Are they not locked in place with a woodruff key?

Jim
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:55 AM   #22
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Cam tensioners

Another quick update: BMW SA have requested that my dealer investigate the cam tensioners as they may be the cause of the problem, I am just waiting them to request I bring my bike in. The case continues.
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:08 PM   #23
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Eh? R1200GSA ping

On the 22 of May my bike went in and had the cam chain tensioners replaced. This was because the cam alignment kept changing and these tensioners are common between the 4 cams so they suspected the tensioners. Nonetheless the misfire/pre-ignition/detonation problem persists. To the point where again today when it stalled on me I was almost taken out by the vehicle behind me.

Below is a video clip where I can demonstrate to you what happens if I twist the throttle very slightly off idle. I was able to replicate this a few times to some colleagues at work. I did turn the ignition off and on to reset the computer and it still behaved the same. Listen carefully to the engine idle while watching the rev counter, you will hear the erratic idle and pre-ignition (and ping) and then it stalled. I did not change the throttle position nor touch any switches.
I don't know if this is related to the same issue as when I blip the throttle before I engage gear but it's not right.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-8EL...ature=youtu.be

Kevin
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:15 PM   #24
stan23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CandyMan_ZA View Post
On the 22 of May my bike went in and had the cam chain tensioners replaced. This was because the cam alignment kept changing and these tensioners are common between the 4 cams so they suspected the tensioners. Nonetheless the misfire/pre-ignition/detonation problem persists. To the point where again today when it stalled on me I was almost taken out by the vehicle behind me.

Below is a video clip where I can demonstrate to you what happens if I twist the throttle very slightly off idle. I was able to replicate this a few times to some colleagues at work. I did turn the ignition off and on to reset the computer and it still behaved the same. Listen carefully to the engine idle while watching the rev counter, you will hear the erratic idle and pre-ignition (and ping) and then it stalled. I did not change the throttle position nor touch any switches.
I don't know if this is related to the same issue as when I blip the throttle before I engage gear but it's not right.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-8EL...ature=youtu.be

Kevin
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So in the video, was that a idle, or where you holding the throttle slightly? I'm sorry, but it wasn't clear.

That definitely does not sound right if the bike is at idle and fully warmed up.
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:24 PM   #25
SiouxsieCat
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I bought a bad tank of gas that made my '11 GSA run like crap; mostly at idle and during acceleration. I thought it was a stick coil, and even took it to the dealer, who found nothing wrong. I siphoned the remaining fuel, refilled at a different location, adding some Seafoam to clean it out, and all was good.
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:27 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by stan23 View Post
So in the video, was that a idle, or where you holding the throttle slightly? I'm sorry, but it wasn't clear.

That definitely does not sound right if the bike is at idle and fully warmed up.
Hi Stan, it is a very light turn on the throttle, probably 1% of the full twist, just off idle. I had just come from a ride where it again stalled as I blipped the throttle at a traffic light as it turned green, I was not in gear yet even, engine was warm. I don't know if this is related to when it stalls as I blip the throttle though, symptoms are the same, pre-ignition and stall.

Kevin
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:29 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by SiouxsieCat View Post
I bought a bad tank of gas that made my '11 GSA run like crap; mostly at idle and during acceleration. I thought it was a stick coil, and even took it to the dealer, who found nothing wrong. I siphoned the remaining fuel, refilled at a different location, adding some Seafoam to clean it out, and all was good.
I have done almost 15 000km's and this problem still persists, unlikely to be a bad tank of gas
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:43 PM   #28
stan23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CandyMan_ZA View Post
Hi Stan, it is a very light turn on the throttle, probably 1% of the full twist, just off idle. I had just come from a ride where it again stalled as I blipped the throttle at a traffic light as it turned green, I was not in gear yet even, engine was warm. I don't know if this is related to when it stalls as I blip the throttle though, symptoms are the same, pre-ignition and stall.

Kevin
Something to check if you have a buddy that has a bike that doesn't show these symptoms is to swap coil packs. (all 4)
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:46 PM   #29
ZachZ
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I have a '12 12gs w/ 500mi so far and I too blip the throttle before starting off from a stop. The throttle blip occasionally causes the bike to choke and it stalled 2 times during my last ride. Glad to hear it is not just my bike or riding style, but definitely not happy that I have to accept the fact that my new bike will act like this without explanation. WTF. If the bottom line solution is to change my riding style, then I guess it's a cheap fix.
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Old 06-12-2012, 03:51 AM   #30
L21
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JimVonBaden Is thair an easy way to test the lower stick coils?
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