Best Mod ever for quick, no mess oil changes for your 9*0

[Alleycatdad]

As requested, photos of the upper end of the hose:



Wiring:

Take two good snug turns around the hose, snug to the bottom of the Red part--the idea is that it cannot lenghten (by unscrewing) with the wire in place:



Twist 'er up...



Pull it up to the first blue nut and take a wrap each direction-make sure it's straight and along the flat of the red part:



This does two things-keeps it from lenghtening (loosening, its gotta get longer if it gets loose), and gives you a visual check. Never -NEVER- wire anything that you PERSONALLY have not checked for tightness. If the vertical run here is slanted diagonally during a later inspection, this joint needs attention.

Now twist the wire again and run it in a tightening direction behind the assembly to the anchor point in the aluminum tank bridge--as tightly as you can get it done. This secures the entire assembly from rotation.



Tie it to the anchor-I used the bridge cause I could get to it, but whatever--it's just gotta run in a TIGHTENING direction...



Part one done.



It's probably reasonable to assume that since this pulls the whole hose in a tightening direction, the tank fitting cannot loosen without tightening against the next fitting in line, which shouldn't be possible if you got it tight before wiring. However, the tank fitting comes with a neat little wire groove, and with some care it can be secured as well:





Note the the wire is slightly over-twisted at the corner of the fitting, so that the wire will grip the nut and not slip.

Done! You can see that the hose end fitting (blue, attaches to the tank fitting) is unsecured here, but between the force of the wire wraps in the swivel groove below it and the fact that it's being pulled in a tightening direction against the tank fitting, I'm OK with it as it is. You could pretty easily drill it and wire it directly, but if you got everything as tight as it should be, the wire is mostly to show that YOU tightened it, YOU checked it, and NOBODY ELSE has messed with it since then anyway. It's surely more secure than without the wire.

Steve

[Geek]

Thanks for taking the time to details your safety wire technique Steve

You are giving me bad flashbacks to the first time I safety wired a race bike (it was a 92CBR600F2) - everything was going fine until it came time to drill the banjo bolts for the brakes.... 30 drill bits later I completely understood why pre-drilled bolt kits sold for $300+ and were worth every penny

[Alleycatdad]

Amen, brother, amen. I hear every word of that!

I'd just leave it alone, but experiences with unsupported levers and vibration just won't let me...

Steve

[RunningWild]

Did my first oil change since adding this hose. Done in under 30 mins Awesome!

[Michhub]

I finally installed the hose and now can't seem to find a way to route it so the stock skid plate doesn't hit it...
anybody have pics? ...or are you all using an aftermarket skid plate with more clearance

[laramie LC4]

well, that was much to do about nothing. you guys got me all worked up thinking this first oil change was going to take hours....when i fact it took me less than 1hr and that includes doing the oil line mod and cutting the guard to fit.


now that i've added the oil line i bet it will take less than 20 minutes next time. just remove the front 2 bolts holding on the skid plate, swing it out of the way, then drain the oil and filters. no biggie at all.

thanks for all the help. nothing like seeing some photo's to help put things into perspective.

laramie

[Qwik]

Originally Posted by Michhub

I finally installed the hose and now can't seem to find a way to route it so the stock skid plate doesn't hit it...
anybody have pics? ...or are you all using an aftermarket skid plate with more clearance

just noticed this but Most of us are running an aftermarket skid plate.. Nice thing with the hose is you can move it around to fit.

[laramie LC4]

has anyone thought about the consequences of removing, or possibilities of replacing the drain plug magnet? i've been thinking about this since doing this mod and i cant make up my mind.

anyone?

thanks,

laramie

[DSM8]

Originally Posted by laramie LC4

has anyone thought about the consequences of removing, or possibilities of replacing the drain plug magnet? i've been thinking about this since doing this mod and i cant make up my mind.

anyone?

thanks,

laramie

You can alays epoxy a powerful magnet to the case next to the drain plug. It would serve the same purpose. More or less.

[laramie LC4]

Originally Posted by DSM8

You can alays epoxy a powerful magnet to the case next to the drain plug. It would serve the same purpose. More or less.

problem being you would never actually get the metal out of the tank. the whole reason for these things is to catch the metal and not allow it to keep flowing through the engine. it also serves as a big red flag when things are about to go bad.

case in point...



granted this was on an LC4, but without that magnet the owner may have kept riding his bike straight into the ground...

what we need is something on the top of the hose mod that can be pulled every couple oil changes, or even more if desired. the whole purpose of the oil tube mod is to just drain the oil cleanly and quickly. once it's out, no real problem or mess pulling the hose to check.

anyone?

laramie

[cjracer]

You could epoxy a magent on top off the metal sump screen. That should be pulled at least every valve check.

[laramie LC4]

Originally Posted by cjracer

You could epoxy a magent on top off the metal sump screen. That should be pulled at least every valve check.

i will look into this the next oil change and see what i can do.

thanks,

laramie

[Qwik]

Get a small Strong magnet and secure it near the top of the hose. When you drain the oil remove the magnet and check the oil afterwards for metal.

[AdvRonski]

Originally Posted by Geek

Thanks for taking the time to details your safety wire technique Steve

You are giving me bad flashbacks to the first time I safety wired a race bike (it was a 92CBR600F2) - everything was going fine until it came time to drill the banjo bolts for the brakes.... 30 drill bits later I completely understood why pre-drilled bolt kits sold for $300+ and were worth every penny

I've broken quite a few bits myself back in my roadracing days, but since these fittings are aluminum, it really wasn't much trouble to drill them.







I'm not sure it would pass Tech Inspection, though.

[Alleycatdad]

I'd run it!

Steve