Best Mod ever for quick, no mess oil changes for your 9*0

[Qwik]

But it does protect the line from damage and if that line were just rubber and somehow had a hole in it your engine would lose all its oil. So the Braided line makes sense.

[Grayjet]

Yeah, this mod is different than the quick valve. The quick valve shuts off the oil at the valve, so the tube is only used during an oil change to drain the tank. This mod, however, has no such valve at the tank as far as I can tell. The line is full of oil all the time, and the oil change is accomplished by removing the plug at the end of the line. That makes the braided cable a necessity to preserve the integrity of the oil system.

Lance

Originally Posted by Qwik

But it does protect the line from damage and if that line were just rubber and somehow had a hole in it your engine would lose all its oil. So the Braided line makes sense.

[MotoTex]

Originally Posted by Grayjet

Yeah, this mod is different than the quick valve. The quick valve shuts off the oil at the valve, so the tube is only used during an oil change to drain the tank. This mod, however, has no such valve at the tank as far as I can tell. The line is full of oil all the time, and the oil change is accomplished by removing the plug at the end of the line. That makes the braided cable a necessity to preserve the integrity of the oil system.

Lance

That makes sense. Thanks for 'splainin' it.

Once I looked again at the photo I see there is no valve at the tank end of the line like the QuikValve setup.

Is there any advantage to using a capped line instead of the QuikValve mod? Maybe a slight cost savings?

Both ways are certainly better than the stock method.

[666]

I have a quick valve and I had to be careful how to position it. and also I had to add few mm thick spacer at the bottom gastank mounting bolt to prevent gas tank from touching quick valve. Looks like there are no issues(very minor) like that with this setup.

Originally Posted by MotoTex

Is there any advantage to using a capped line instead of the QuikValve mod? Maybe a slight cost savings?

Both ways are certainly better than the stock method.

[Qwik]

Originally Posted by MotoTex

Is there any advantage to using a capped line instead of the QuikValve mod? Maybe a slight cost savings?

Both ways are certainly better than the stock method.

I havent looked at the quikvalve setup. This method will be easy to use. Remove the bellypan, drop the hose down, Loosen the cap/bolt and let it drain into the pan. Nice solid setup.

[AdvRonski]

Originally Posted by Qwik

If you do the Stud mod for the crashbars you cant remove that piece. This makes it easy to drain the oil and you arent going to make a mess doing it. And it looks good as well.

If you loctite the jam nuts to the stud with some heavy-duty 648 or 271, it's no problem to pull the plate for service.

[Qwik]

Dont really see the need to remove it but thats a good thought. The thing is I installed them with no intention of removing em.

[kdscoates]

So let me ask some stupid questions here
You get the quick valve and it screws right in the oil tank when you pull the plug and then you no longer have to remove the tank on the oil change just reach up there and flip the valve and drain the oil down the tube.
The other mod has a plug you pull off and drain the oil which is left right under the bike in the belly pan but you have to grind
out a spot in the metal piece that holds the belly pan up.
I think I get it but I am just trying to be clear

[MotoTex]

Originally Posted by kdscoates

So let me ask some stupid questions here
You get the quick valve and it screws right in the oil tank when you pull the plug and then you no longer have to remove the tank on the oil change just reach up there and flip the valve and drain the oil down the tube.
The other mod has a plug you pull off and drain the oil which is left right under the bike in the belly pan but you have to grind
out a spot in the metal piece that holds the belly pan up.
I think I get it but I am just trying to be clear

On the QuikValve you do also have to grind out that corner of the aluminum for the drain hose.

Both methods have a hose that stores between the skid plate and the engine.

With the QuikValve damage to that hose has no consequence.

With the other, damage to that hose, or, if the end cap were to come off, will drain the tank.

The chances of that happening are pretty slim, but I like not having to be concerned with it by using the QuikValve.

If you already have the hose and cap mod there probably isn't any compelling reason to go to QuikValve, as long as you always verify a tight cap and routing to avoid rub/pinch points.

If you have neither it seems that the QuikValve might have enough of an advantage to bias it as the preferred mod.

[Peanuts]

Originally Posted by AdvRonski

If you loctite the jam nuts to the stud with some heavy-duty 648 or 271, it's no problem to pull the plate for service.

I like that idea. I will now go for it, thanks :)

[lowes48]

I like the ingenuity of the "Summit Valve", but at $40.00+ I think the Fumoto valve is a better value. But, if I already had some or all of the Summit parts floating around the shop I wouldn't hesitate using them. Thanks to the OP for giving us another option!

[jwalters]

This is one of those things, that I wish I would have thought of. Nice work.

[genghis9021]

It drains faster/better, too.

Kurt

[Masa]

Today I was at a hydraulics store getting some parts and asked them to make a drain hose. This version is very slim and that is it's flaw too. The hole is very narrow, only 4mm and hose is 1/4", so I'd think it takes some time to drain.. Would be better to find low pressure fittings with larger openings.

This was just an experiment and I'm not even sure if I want to start grinding my bike to make this mod work.



Maybe I'll just stick to the old messy method..

[BaronVonDarrin]

"taking a dremel and grinding away the material "
what material are you speaking of grinding away?...