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Old 01-08-2012, 07:00 AM   #31
Skinner OP
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I will add color to the mix, the wire mesh sounds like a good idea also. I do have a product that is added to the water to help reduce air also, plus a densifier that is sprayed on top of the concrete after finishing that helps strengthen and seal. I'll add the names of them later as they are in the garge and I am on the couch right now. But both are from protecrete.
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:18 AM   #32
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when not working on the countertop,keep the whole project wraped with plastic sheeting...and in close contact. water is part of the cure. i have seen fiberglass threads mixed into cement to improve the reinforcing. not entirerly shure how to do this without it showing up in the finshed surface
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Old 01-09-2012, 03:43 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_gr8t_waldo View Post
when not working on the countertop,keep the whole project wraped with plastic sheeting...and in close contact. water is part of the cure. i have seen fiberglass threads mixed into cement to improve the reinforcing. not entirerly shure how to do this without it showing up in the finshed surface
I'm following along here because I've always wanted concrete countertops. In my application though we could cast upside down in melamine forms, which supposedly gives a really nice surface without having to have any skill as a concrete finisher.

I've read that you can deal with the glass fibers by playing a propane torch over the surface after it's cured to just burn away any that show up on the surface. I'd want to test that on a sample first though, obviously.
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:40 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by TheOtherBart View Post
I'm following along here because I've always wanted concrete countertops. In my application though we could cast upside down in melamine forms, which supposedly gives a really nice surface without having to have any skill as a concrete finisher.


Cast upside down as above, and you use a bead of silicone smoothed into the bottom corner of the mold (this will be the top), with your finger to get the gentle round-over. That's the way I've seem it done.
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Old 01-10-2012, 03:02 PM   #35
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island support underneath is built and in place.


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Old 01-11-2012, 03:37 PM   #36
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Ok, I'm fully committed now!
just ordered this
concrete finishing set!



Some of you have said you are going to try this project depending on my results.
I don't see a need for this tool after this, so, depending on how much fun this is, the set may be for sale for half price after I'm done with it!

Of course I hate selling bikes, guns or tools. so we will see.
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Old 01-11-2012, 04:42 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Skinner View Post

Some of you have said you are going to try this project depending on my results.
I don't see a need for this tool after this, so, depending on how much fun this is, the set may be for sale for half price after I'm done with it!

Of course I hate selling bikes, guns or tools. so we will see.
I'm doing concrete countertops no matter how yours turns out!

I bet if you're happy with your results that you may want to do them in your bathrooms!
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Old 01-11-2012, 05:11 PM   #38
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There IS such a thing as an edging tool that'll give you a rounded top edge. Used mostly on sidewalks. It's used during troweling.
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Old 01-11-2012, 07:08 PM   #39
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There IS such a thing as an edging tool that'll give you a rounded top edge. Used mostly on sidewalks. It's used during troweling.
Yes I have one, but that leves other edges, I found on th site that bought the polisher they have a grinder/ profiling bit that rounds I off. But I am now happy with square edges.

My test pieces have confined that. I won't proceed until I have successfully polished my test pieces.
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:11 AM   #40
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edge forms

I too am doing concrete counter tops in my house. I did one for my cabin and it turned out good. I poured it upside down with broken slate tiles in, they look like fossils when it was done! Do a goggles search and you will find edge forms of every kind, it will be a lot less work with an edge form. I'm just a DIY kind of guy but mine turn out good. Next I am doing the counters in the house. I think it is worth buying the books that were in one of the earlier post.. I will try to dig up some pics..

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Old 01-13-2012, 11:50 AM   #41
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I think a colored concrete counter top covered with a bar/table top epoxy would be really cool
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Old 01-13-2012, 12:46 PM   #42
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We made some benches and picnic table tops with 45 deg edges by simply cutting a 1x1 into a triangle that was about 3/4 by 3/4 on two sides and putting that on the bottom edge and top of the form. Then fill to the top of the triangle and use that as your "scraping" edge.

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Old 01-14-2012, 10:54 PM   #43
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Iv'e done a few concrete counter tops using GRFC or glass fiber reinforced concrete. I make my counter tops 1" thick and cast them upside down on a formica table. Any edge detail is possible and I usually do a 1 1/2" bullnose with a cove underneath. The edge overhangs similar to a granite countertop so that my concrete tops look like they are 3" thick but they are only 1" thick.

I use a mix of pool grade dolomite, sand, riverside white cement and dry pigments throw it into the mold and then trowel it down so it is about 1/4'-3/8" thick and wait a few minutes for it t gell up. I add an acrylic glue called Forton to my water so the cement firms up a bit in half an hour. I then make my next mix with the same ingrediants but a bit wetter and add vinyl coated choped fiberglass that I buy from my local stucco supplier. I have forms around the edge that are 1" thick and I make the conter top to that thickeness with no rebar except in front and behind a cutout for a sink, I use piece of 3/8" rebar and have it extend about 6" on each side of the cut out.

The surface on my counter tops comes out with a lot of small holes and I then back fill with a slightly contrasting color and end up with a counter then looks like stone. If I want it to look more like concrete I make the frst layer very dry like damp beach sand and pack it down. It is important to paint a coat of forton on the dry pack as you trowel on the next layer.

As soon as I am done troweling I cover the wet cement with plastic. the next day it will be ready to de-mold and flip but it needs to be supported evenly or it will warp. Full cure takes a month. surface finishing is the same as any other conrete.

I like to weigh my color on a triple beam balance scl\ale and run it through a fine mesh screen into the dry cement. I mix it throughly which enables me to control the exact color and to be able to match a whole kitchen. Pathcing color cement is tricky because if you use the same mix to patch with it will look darker.

Do lots of samples and have fun with it.
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Old 01-15-2012, 09:30 AM   #44
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Any edge detail is possible and I usually do a 1 1/2" bullnose with a cove underneath. The edge overhangs similar to a granite countertop so that my concrete tops look like they are 3" thick but they are only 1" thick.
Excellent post red. I'm not quite getting this part though and I like the illusory thickness idea. Do you have any pics?
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:22 AM   #45
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Do lots of samples and have fun with it.
thanks for the post!
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