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Old 06-28-2012, 09:23 AM   #91
supershaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240sx4u View Post
I did use a mag v-block and it worked great. I am not happy about having to take it back apart though. I am definitely interested in a different mounting scheme for the light. What did you use Supershaft?

Bill; http://www.pbase.com/toastertan/installation_photos

That measurement may be right, I am not sure. I managed to cut too much off of mine somehow and had to create some different bushings to fill the gap. Oops.

Evan
There are a lot of aftermarket ears out there. The good ones are usually pretty pricey. I use a modified RT or RS mount.

supershaft screwed with this post 06-28-2012 at 09:57 AM
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Old 06-28-2012, 10:31 AM   #92
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Originally Posted by Bill Harris View Post
I've looked on the Web til I'm cross-eyed but I can't find a single page/site on the installation--just a lot of snippets.
Bill, I can email the instructions (pdf file) to you if you need them.
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:38 PM   #93
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Well, duh, there it is. All 31 pages. It was over past the right side of the window and I didn't scroll back over. Thanks...

I'm going to double-check that measurement, and measure the distance between the lower triple and the upper brace as-installed (the factory spec with the stock stamped upper is 160mm). Measure well and cut once...


PS-- thanks for the offer Cray, I didn't see your message when I replied to 240's. I've got the instruction files copied over. And I was right, the install is intuitive.
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Bill Harris screwed with this post 06-28-2012 at 04:44 PM
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Old 06-29-2012, 04:40 AM   #94
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Another question--

I didn't get the "7mm Spacers" mentioned in the Instructions. I guess that they are not needed (rather like the lip at the top of the fork tube bore on earlier TT Braces). I can (re)position the fork tubes to the top of those bores when I put on the stanchion top nuts rather than "recess the brace 7mm on each side" (pg 22 of the instr).
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Old 06-29-2012, 05:32 AM   #95
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Bill, mine included the 7mm spacers. All you need to do is set the fork tube tops 7mm recessed from the top of the brace.

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Old 03-24-2014, 10:59 AM   #96
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I didnt want to start a new thread and there is plenty of good information here, but in regards of for alignment, which im in the process of right now. I did the glass and tweaked the forks so i have no clicking but as for the forks in the x plane, i measured from top to bottom and realized that the forks are wider at the bottom ( there splayed). It seems that most articles refer to the x plane as closer from the bottom then the top. i know my forks are not bent and the triple looks pretty solid, but what could cause the forks to splay. I put a clamp to bind them together closer but achieved minimal change. even with the top clamp bolted on which i have an after market there is no change and are still splayed. There only splayed at .010
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:10 AM   #97
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Getting the triple to move back into the correct position isn't easy at all FYI. As you saw I had a horrible time with it.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:28 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by Telo View Post
I didnt want to start a new thread and there is plenty of good information here, but in regards of for alignment, which im in the process of right now. I did the glass and tweaked the forks so i have no clicking but as for the forks in the x plane, i measured from top to bottom and realized that the forks are wider at the bottom ( there splayed). It seems that most articles refer to the x plane as closer from the bottom then the top. i know my forks are not bent and the triple looks pretty solid, but what could cause the forks to splay. I put a clamp to bind them together closer but achieved minimal change. even with the top clamp bolted on which i have an after market there is no change and are still splayed. There only splayed at .010
So, how smooth do they function with the springs removed through full stroke? If smooth all the way up and down by hand, you are good to go. If not........................

First try rotating the tubes and check measure. You can find a better parallel that way. If that don't work, try heat.

Remove the top clamp, wheel and axel and sliders. Put a clamp on the lower tubes to press then in or out as required.

Now dance a propane torch all over the lower clamp for some 10 minutes. Don't worry, that clamp and steering head and frame are a huge heat sink, and I was never able to get it to over 170F. If you have an infrared thermometer you can monitor this.

Leave the bind on the tubes and let it cool like overnight. Then remove the clamp and see what you got. Don't fail to recheck the face plane.

I got mine to a half mm with several iterations of bind, heat, cool tech. At 1.5mm they were getting very slick and smooth, so that is with no springs axle inserted and full stroke. Something to shoot for.

Then install the top clamp and test again, then the wheel mounted test again, then the fender brace and test again.

The Glass tech does not mention heating. It made all the difference on mine.

It is quite amazing how nice these forks are when lined up properly with no sticktion.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:53 AM   #99
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... even with the top clamp bolted on which i have an after market there is no change and are still splayed. There only splayed at .010
The aftermarket top clamp, in conjunction with the lower yoke, will dictate the splay regardless of prepatory adjustments.
Probably the bores' center-to-center distance is not identical between the upper and lower yokes.

That being the case, you might consider shimming the upper bores.
With the splay you describe, I'd start with .002 shim stock placed at the inboard quadrant of both bores of the top yoke and check the results.
That will push the tops of the stanchions out, bringing the legs closer to parallel.
At the ratio of stanchion above and below the lower yoke, .0015" shims are likely better suited.

I've set-up a few fork assemblies this way with no adverse issues.

IMO it's a bit much to expect BMW's manufacturing tolerances on the yoke bores to match that of the aftermarket top clamps within one or two thousandths of an inch, so a bit of finessing at installation is to be expected
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Renner screwed with this post 04-10-2014 at 10:21 AM
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:51 AM   #100
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i clamped them and cut the reading in half .005. I re installed the clamp and left them on for another 36 hours and guess what, there was no change. Still getting .005. i still want to try it with out the propane torch method and see if more force is needed to get them splayed. I was also thinking if outside temperature effects cold flow within in the aluminum. It 's quite cold outside.
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Old 03-27-2014, 11:15 AM   #101
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I've never found it necessary to appy heat.

If the distance between the fork tube bores is not identical for each yoke, then splay will be introduced at assembly.
You can adjust that using shim stock.
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Old 03-27-2014, 11:46 AM   #102
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Or . . . everything can be perfect and how tight you tighten down the down the lower tree clamp bolts will make that much difference and more. Get a magnetic V block and watch everything as you tighten them down and see for yourself. 25ftlbs might be .010 and 28ftlbs might be 0. That time around. It might be something completely different next time around. It all depends on how and what sequence.
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Old 03-27-2014, 01:12 PM   #103
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ive torqued the bolts to 30ft lb and put alot of force on the clamp for ten minutes and now there at .001 difference.

Also, what does it mean when they say to equalize the forks. I somewhat understand but can someone tell me the procedure?

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Old 03-28-2014, 12:17 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Telo View Post
ive torqued the bolts to 30ft lb and put alot of force on the clamp for ten minutes and now there at .001 difference.

Also, what does it mean when they say to equalize the forks. I somewhat understand but can someone tell me the procedure?
When I first tested the forks on mine they were dangerous. Massive sticktion. I assumed gummed up goods inside. After getting it moved and dissassembled, inside and bumpers all in fine and clean order. Splayed tubes 3mm at ends. Both planes foul.

Cold tech just was not moving the bottom clamp enough. Two sessions with heat and viola. Lower brace massaged and lined tubes at half a mm and nice full stroke with no bind. Install SJ top clamp, still nice. Fit fender brace no shims, still nice. Install wheel, still nice. Springs from Porter and fluid. Test drive. Amazingly good function nominal BMW performance improved nicely by the better springs. 79RS at 14.5k.

Now at 23k and tracking straight and true. You apply less bind to move a mm to a half mm then the strangely huge warp I had to remove from the lower brace.

Shims leave a bind in the system. Get the tubes straight in the lower brace alone and no shims may be necessary at the top clamp.

Do check for any evidence of shuffling at the stem top nut. Shimming here may be essential to keep the top nut from backing off. Put a dot of enamel as a tell tale so at a glance you can confirm the top nut has not moved. That's where a lot of tank slappers come from.
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Old 03-28-2014, 03:45 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by Telo View Post
ive torqued the bolts to 30ft lb and put alot of force on the clamp for ten minutes and now there at .001 difference.

Also, what does it mean when they say to equalize the forks. I somewhat understand but can someone tell me the procedure?
See what I mean? 9 out of 10 times no force is needed. The pinch bolts pull the tubes. How much, when and whatnot is all that is needed most of the time.

If your stem lock nut is coming loose, it wasn't tightened enough. Shimming that nut?? No. If the hole is out of round and they very often are, you need a new top tree. Those top trees are not meaty enough and regularly stretch at the stem hole. From what I can tell, no accident is necessary but it does help!

supershaft screwed with this post 03-28-2014 at 04:02 PM
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