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Old 02-16-2012, 11:36 AM   #46
75monza
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Sorry for the bad information.

I just swapped my bad stock one for the cheaper 10.5 Magura this winter. I dug through the HOW and ADVRIDER before I did it, but I couldn't find anything about it not clearing the switch pod. I probably missed that information.

It went on just fine and it bled just fine and I got it working. I did it really quick because I work outside and it is cold. I didn't pay too much attention when I put it on. Just get it done and get inside before your hands freeze solid.

I got a PM this week asking about it hitting so I went out to the garage and played with it.

Your right. It does hit the stock switch pod when you pull the lever. It is extremely close.

It is installed now and it isn't leaking at the moment, so for me that is a step in the right direction. Better than the puddle of fluid on the floor. As soon as it warms up, I need to look at it some more.

Darn.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rider914 View Post
Yes, yes, but...
As mentioned before, the standard Magura units do not clear the left-hand switch pod. I was lucky enough to find a good used stock unit when my original went bad (and returned the standard I had just received). When the replacement goes bad, I will likely get a standard AND then have to replace the switch pod as well.

-M
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:05 PM   #47
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Played with my clutch master mounting. Adjusted the lever. It is good enough for me. I got the cheaper 10.5 Magura on it with the stock switch block. The lever might hit a little bit, but it engages fully. If I trimmed the flanges on my grips, I could pull it all the way to the bar. I can ride it around and it shifts great.

Rode it around the yard to play with the clutch just going in circles slowly and then took a blast down the road and back. No missed shifts. I don't think I sprayed my neighbors car with gravel. Too much anyway.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:04 PM   #48
Yellow Pig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75monza View Post
You don't have to spend $300 for a complete assembly.

I bought the magura 10.5 from my local shop for $140. This is the stock size. (CJ's clutch cooler bolts right back onto this)

https://www.denniskirk.com/magura/10...er.p571733.prd

Another member posted that the Magura 9.0 was a good clutch master to use for a lighter pull. It is only $160.

https://www.denniskirk.com/magura/9-...der.571733.prd

You can probably get better prices from Munn.


You already have the clamp half with mirror mount on your old/bad master cylinder. All you have to do is push out the pin holding the clamp half onto your old master and also push out the pin on your new master and swap the clamp. That is what I did. Took all of 2 minutes maybe.

The clamp half is not worth $150. You do lose the clutch safety switch by going this route though. My safety switch was already gone by the time I did this. I don't miss it at all.
Excuse my ignorance, but what does the 9mm or 10.5mm refer to on the Magura Clutch Cylinder?
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:16 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Pig View Post
... but what does the 9mm or 10.5mm refer to on the Magura Clutch Cylinder?
I believe it is the Diameter of the Master Piston or Bore.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:48 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by AdvGa View Post
I believe it is the Diameter of the Master Piston or Bore.

Correct. Mine are still working great.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:48 PM   #51
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I did resleeving for a friend and works fine.

Lighter pull, went down to 9mm piston, both 2 holes needed. My wokshop technician was afraid the small hole couldn't be made thinner than 1,5mm so this is what he used. Works and is very light.
I would also recommend installing bearings at the hinges where the clutch lever works. This stops wear that would desalign the lever movement. I believe disalignment is the reason the piston wears into the cylinder.




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Cheers.

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Old 04-17-2012, 01:54 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gefr View Post
Lighter pull, went down to 9mm piston, both 2 holes needed. My wokshop technician was afraid the small hole couldn't be made thinner than 1,5mm so this is what he used. Works and is very light.
I would also recommend installing bearings at the hinges where the clutch lever works. This stops wear that would desilign the lever movement. I believe disalignment is the reason the piston wears into the cylinder.
Cheers.
I applaud the choice of book the lever is resting upon!
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Old 04-17-2012, 08:51 AM   #53
75monza
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Do you have any more information on this? Is this something that you had custom made or it is something that you can buy? What does it change?


Quote:
Originally Posted by gefr View Post
Lighter pull, went down to 9mm piston, both 2 holes needed. My wokshop technician was afraid the small hole couldn't be made thinner than 1,5mm so this is what he used. Works and is very light.
I would also recommend installing bearings at the hinges where the clutch lever works. This stops wear that would desilign the lever movement. I believe disalignment is the reason the piston wears into the cylinder.





Cheers.
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:26 AM   #54
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You can buy all the bearings, you have to reshape the part where the red screw mounts

The ball bearings are OD=9mm and ID=5mm, thickness=3mm, needle bearings are OD=11mm IIRC and work on the stock bolt. You do not need to bore the holes. The needle bearing replaces the OEM bronze bushing. The steel bushing holding the red plastic adjusting screw needs to be reduced at the 2 ends by 3mm which is the smaller ball bearings I found. I suggest you avoid overpriced dental tools' bearings. Cheers.

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Old 02-21-2013, 09:56 PM   #55
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Just found this thread as I'm looking to replace the bad seals in my clutch MC. Lots of good info, but I thought I'd comment on gefr's lever Mod:

Although adding bearings to the trunnion that carries the plunger will reduce or eliminate wear at the lever, it will have little effect on wear at the master cylinder piston or bore: The plunger pivots where it contacts the piston, constantly maintaining proper alignment between the lever, the plunger and the piston.

Even if the trunnion pivot holes in the lever are worn out of round, whatever side to side movement there was caused by the misalignment would be negligible and produce little or no measurable wear to the piston or cylinder bore: the angle between the plunger and the piston wouldn't be enough to translate into excessive lateral movement. We'd see heavy wear at the point of contact between the piston and plunger if that were the case, along with heavy wear at the trunnion pivot on the lever. If the levers or plungers were wearing enough to be a problem, I'm sure we would have seen it mentioned as an issue with Magura components on KTMs.

The short piston stroke in the soft aluminum bore would be the primary cause of the bore wearing along the sealing surfaces. Resleeving with a harder material would appear to solve the problem.

2
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:22 AM   #56
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I had two faulty m/c in my hands.

The one had no visible signs of wear. The other was showing clear friction wear on the one side of the piston. That is why I concluded some lateral movement could be the problem. I also cannot explain why the problem appeared on my 35k kms 990Adv and not on my 137k kms 950Adv, where I had installed the bearings after its 40k kms since new. The reason I initially installed bearings was the clutch safety switch. It failed on me because of friction wear and the replacement was working intermittently when I pulled the lever sideways. Resleeving has the side effect that I can go down in diameter, reducing lever forces; very welcome in city traffic.
Cheers.

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Old 02-22-2013, 12:31 AM   #57
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If you replace seals please keep us informed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HeatXfer View Post
I'm looking to replace the bad seals in my clutch MC.
I believe replacing seals to be a temporary fix, so your testimony will be very welcome.
Cheers.

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Old 02-22-2013, 09:46 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gefr View Post
The one had no visible signs of wear. The other was showing clear friction wear on the one side of the piston. That is why I concluded some lateral movement could be the problem. I also cannot explain why the problem appeared on my 35k kms 990Adv and not on my 137k kms 950Adv, where I had installed the bearings since 40k kms. The reason I initially installed bearings was the clutch safety switch. It fail on me because of friction wear and the replacement was working intermittently when I pulled the lever sideways. Resleeving has the side effect that I can go down in diameter, reducing lever forces, very welcome in city traffic.
Cheers.
That's a great clarification, thanks for the follow-up, I'll be closely inspecting mine this weekend.

Thanks!
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:18 PM   #59
men8ifr
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How to remove master piston from housing

How do I get the piston out of the clutch housing? - does it com out the lever end or the cable end - tried both and no luck...
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:06 PM   #60
gefr
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The piston comes out from the lever end.

You need to remove the circlip and move the piston sideways with your finger. There is a spring in there that will push the piston out. You just need to insist. Some engine oil could help.
Cheers.
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