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Old 01-20-2012, 07:08 AM   #61
Tall Man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastdadio View Post
Weestrom, Remove the fairing cowl to access the air filter?
It takes a bit more than just removing both cowlings.

I sometimes think that there are marriages that require less commitment than what is required to work on a V-Strom.
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:35 AM   #62
Sir Not Appearing
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The battery placement on the Suzuki VS800 (for that matter, VS400, VS600, VS700, and VS750). Best place to put the battery? In front of the rear wheel where it is almost impossible to jump it if you get stranded and replacement is a real treat. My suggestion, buy a AGM battery so you can forget about it for 5-7 years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by southwade View Post
a.k.a... bikes you like but would change this or that, etc...

i.e.

The previous Versys headlight


It may be ugly, but it does a decent job of lighting up the roadway at night compared to many other bikes.
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Old 01-20-2012, 09:50 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Not Appearing View Post
It may be ugly, but it does a decent job of lighting up the roadway at night compared to many other bikes.
I bet, lol... I may be buying one soon. The bike, as a whole, is really growing on me.

Also, this thread is turning out pretty awesome, lots of good info you don't read in bike "reviews"
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:12 AM   #64
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tall Man View Post
It takes a bit more than just removing both cowlings.

I sometimes think that there are marriages that require less commitment than what is required to work on a V-Strom.


On my GTS, there are five (I think) separate fairing/cowling pieces that need to come off in order to access the airbox. Given the somewhat radical nature of the fairing and the infrequent need to inspect air filters, I don't look upon that as a terrible burden

As an early example of Yamaha's execution of fuel injection, I suppose I should also make allowances there. It does, however, have a very abrupt throttle, made all the worse by the slightly smaller-than-normal diameter of the grips. This leads to getting cramp in my hand, trying to finesse the throttle at low speeds or to maintain steady cruising speed.
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:39 AM   #65
Uncle Pollo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tall Man View Post
It takes a bit more than just removing both cowlings.

I sometimes think that there are marriages that require less commitment than what is required to work on a V-Strom.
Do you know how to remove the whole nose assembly in 1 minute?
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:33 AM   #66
Tall Man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolloAsesino View Post
Do you know how to remove the whole nose assembly in 1 minute?
Yes, I can remove the nose assembly, although I've never timed myself. I don't work in a hurried manner.

More to the point, the upper headlight shroud is the only front body component that doesn't need removed to gain access to the Strom's airbox.

Removing the fuel tank is my favorite part. Not.
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Old 01-20-2012, 05:25 PM   #67
Crusty Dusty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tall Man View Post
Yes, I can remove the nose assembly, although I've never timed myself. I don't work in a hurried manner.

More to the point, the upper headlight shroud is the only front body component that doesn't need removed to gain access to the Strom's airbox.

Removing the fuel tank is my favorite part. Not.
Not sure about the Wee, but on the Vee you can remove the tank and not have to take the whole front fairing apart. You have to remove the seat (of course), the small black plastic cover over the front tank bolt and the banana side covers. Everything else on the fairing is just loosened. It really helps to have a second set of hands.

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Old 01-20-2012, 06:00 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tall Man View Post
It takes a bit more than just removing both cowlings.

I sometimes think that there are marriages that require less commitment than what is required to work on a V-Strom.

Replacing the air filter isn't that bad once you know the tricks.

You remove that front connecting plastic (behind the triple clamp), remove the seat, and the two lower side plastics and remove the three rear bolts on the cowlings each side.

Slide a towel under the cowlings to protect the tank. Lift the rear of the tank, disconnect the fuel line and fuel pump wiring, remove the front tank bolt - get some help to splay the cowling plastics and pop the tank out backwards.

The cowlings stay in place and with the tank out it's easy.

Assembly, just (carefully) reverse the procedure.

Pete
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Old 01-20-2012, 06:15 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southwade View Post
I bet, lol... I may be buying one soon. The bike, as a whole, is really growing on me.

Also, this thread is turning out pretty awesome, lots of good info you don't read in bike "reviews"
You'll like it! I've had mine 3 years. Try this forum. We've got all the info you'll need: www.kawasakiversys.com
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Old 01-20-2012, 06:15 PM   #70
rikki tikki tavi
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I knew the Strom would take the majority of hits in a thread like this, but I've learned to love it regardless.

De-paneling isn't that big a deal...I made a template to hold the fairing screws as I take them out, so reassembly is much easier. And I'd rather have all the plastics and fuel tank off whenever I do maintenance, makes everything much easier to inspect/repair if needed.

But the easiest way to change the looks of it...buy Speedstar's headlight masks and a different windshield. The masks gets rid of the cat's-eye, and the Euro mini shield eliminates buffeting. I ride year 'round with this shield, I love it so much.

Here's the gussied-up beast on some crazy-ass road in TN, or NC maybe?

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rikki tikki tavi screwed with this post 01-20-2012 at 06:24 PM
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:28 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterW View Post
The DL650 does have a vent hose. Find yours and unblock it.

Pete
Not on the US 49-state and Canadian models. Check the diagram--there's a drain hose to drain rain water from the area around the fuel cap, but tank venting is accomplished by a vented cap.

The California model has a vapor recovery system; I should have specified my bike came from out of state.
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:00 AM   #72
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Despite being the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned, vaporlock at temps above 75 F keep me from riding the 1985 K100RT much anymore.

The stupidly tall 1st gear on the 1150GS, being able to cruse 30 in 1st might be nice in stop and go traffic, but it sucks when looking for a campsite.

Pretty much every BMW spedo/tach made. I currently own three, only the 2004 GS spedo is currently working. Currenly, I think.

I have now owned a BMW with a stock seat, I now know why every other bike I have purchased or ridden has an aftermarket saddle.
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Old 01-21-2012, 02:59 PM   #73
Crusty Dusty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterW View Post
Replacing the air filter isn't that bad once you know the tricks.

remove the three rear bolts on the cowlings each side.


Pete
Forgot about those....

I used to think Suzuki suspended the air filter from a string and built the bike around it. I would cuss it no end, then I saw my brother's Gold Wing. HOLY CRAP!!!! Recommended air filter change is 30,000 miles, some guys wait until 50,000, I can see why.
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Old 01-21-2012, 03:47 PM   #74
Grreatdog
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Getting the tank off my LC4E used to aggravate me because I had to remove the two side covers first. But all of a sudden I feel much better about those extra bolts.
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:18 PM   #75
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Bmw

BMW turn signal switches....

Coming up two years on my GS and still stabing away at the spot where very other bike I owned had a simple little button.

Overcomplex.
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