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Old 01-30-2012, 08:54 AM   #16
RexBuck OP
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Day 6 - Jan 23

By the way, the name of this motel is Costa del Sol. Had breakfast and settled up with Victoria about $60 for room, dinner, breakfast and a bunch of beers. Didn’t worry about the bike with Scooby around. I think she hustles pretty hard and is a good businessman – it looks like she is building a second building with a bunch of additional rooms – it looks like she has figured out how to cater to the dirt bike crowd. As soon as these guys pulled in she was there greeting them, assigning rooms and taking their drink orders.

Considered taking the road south of Bahia de LA but after talking to some of the dirt bikers it sounded like it would be 200k of pretty rough conditions and a lot of work. When a dirt biker tells me a road “should be doable with that bike”, I interpret that as “you’re an idiot to take that pig on that road.” So, decided to stick to pavement today.

Some of the hills coming out of Bahia de LA. The scraggly stick on the right with short little branches is predominate at a bit lower altitude.


Generally a pretty mundane ride with a lot of really straight road interspersed with some short but really bitchin twisties.

Stopped in Guerro Negro for gas and come across Paul and Angie in front of a hotel. Stopped and chatted with them – sounds like they wanted to do some whale watching and they were figuring out if they could make the logistics work. It is many times a worry to park your bike somewhere strange with a bunch of gear piled on it. Hope they got out in a boat and were able to see some of those big fish. Of course, they could just wait until they are further down the mainland coast and check out the beaches in front of the resorts – lots of ballenas laying on the beaches.

Whale skeleton at the entrance to Guerro Negro. This happens to be located on Army land and the Army guard across the street wasn’t too happy that I stopped there but, he let me take the picture anyhow.


I gassed up and carried on and did a quick rest stop at San Ignacio. Cool little town. After looking at hundreds of kilometers of endless sand and cactus, the drive in to San Ignacio was a nice change – an oasis with tons of palm trees and the road even crosses a small pond. Cool old church on an immaculate town square.



Came across this bridge across an area I assume is susceptible to flooding it'll be a lake when it is flooded. I guess their budget must have run out before they finished the last chunk closest to me. Flooding and flash floods seems to be a predominate concern in most of the flat areas. Many water crossings (virtually all now dry) that must make life interesting in the wet season.


On the ride to Santa Rosalia spotted what was obviously a volcano in the distance – turned out to be Las Tres Virgins. Cursory research shows a lot of volcanic activity in the area and Santa Rosalia sits in the middle of a caldera.

Heading for Santa Rosalia to find a place for the night. Well, talk about reality differing from what I thought I would see. The town appeared significantly bigger than I thought. Secondly, as you drive in, pass a dozen or more of large industrial plants that have obviously stopped operating years ago. The downtown is kind of different for a Mexican town – almost has décor that you would expect in Wyoming or Montana – looked kind of old western style. Turns out the town was the processing center for a large copper mine in the area that ceased operations in the 1950’s. It was established by a French mining company in the late 19th century which leads to the distinctively different appearance of the town.

The hotels I came across seemed to range from ratty to rattier. I checked on one and it probably would have been ok but no wifi – already had in my head that I should go to Mulege so, I did.

Nice ride to Mulege (That is pronounced Moo-Lay-Hay) but it was now after 5 and that’s about when the sun goes down. Oh yah, changed time zones. So now the sun goes down a bit before 6. This was more what I had in mind. A little more vibrant. Wandered around, settled on the Mulege Hotel 400p (about U$31) – good room. The only single beer the tienda across the street would sell me was a quart . . .
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Old 01-31-2012, 01:06 AM   #17
stickman1432
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Nice report so far...........keep up the good writing and photos are always a must since inmates love the pictures since they tell a better story for the reading impaired . Take that 800GS off road !!! you should have taken the road from Bay of LA to San Fransquito and then to Visciano. It is a easy road that is very doable with the tires you have on the bike. Continue to have fin and keep us up to date.............
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:48 AM   #18
RexBuck OP
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Originally Posted by stickman1432 View Post
Nice report so far...........keep up the good writing and photos are always a must since inmates love the pictures since they tell a better story for the reading impaired . Take that 800GS off road !!! you should have taken the road from Bay of LA to San Fransquito and then to Visciano. It is a easy road that is very doable with the tires you have on the bike. Continue to have fin and keep us up to date.............
Thanks for following along Stickman and thanks for the compliments. Probably should have done that road but that morning, just didn't feel like it. More to come.
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:16 AM   #19
gasandasphalt
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Really nice report, enjoy it a lot... Ride safe, watch the 'twisties',,,, I got 'hit' on one last year, pickup on my side of the road....
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:28 PM   #20
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Really nice report, enjoy it a lot... Ride safe, watch the 'twisties',,,, I got 'hit' on one last year, pickup on my side of the road....
Thanks for that Gas and thanks for following along. Yes, Mexican driving style is certainly less "constrained" than we see in North America. It is sure hard not give it on some of these roads though. Hope your "hit"wasn't serious.

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Old 01-31-2012, 06:43 PM   #21
RebelYell
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Great pics and enjoy reading about your retirement and motorcycle adventures.I someday hope I can ride mexico myself too and Hope I make it to retirement in this god forsaken state and country.I've been to PV mexico and All I can say is its gorgeous,nothing bad about it.I think they feed us alot of propaganda here in the states because if people really woke up and realized and knew how bad and sucky it really was here there would be a max exodus out of this country and the government would be screwed w a big loss of taxes and money and would be left holding the bag like they really should.Anyway enjoy your retirement and keep the pics coming and be safe god bless;)
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:43 PM   #22
RexBuck OP
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Great pics and enjoy reading about your retirement and motorcycle adventures.I someday hope I can ride mexico myself too and Hope I make it to retirement in this god forsaken state and country.I've been to PV mexico and All I can say is its gorgeous,nothing bad about it.I think they feed us alot of propaganda here in the states because if people really woke up and realized and knew how bad and sucky it really was here there would be a max exodus out of this country and the government would be screwed w a big loss of taxes and money and would be left holding the bag like they really should.Anyway enjoy your retirement and keep the pics coming and be safe god bless;)
Thanks for following along and thanks for the well wishes - I appreciate it.

PV is a great town and we have vacationed a few times at a small town about an hour north of there - much smaller. To sees other parts of Mexico that aren't quite so tourist oriented is a real treat - wonderful people, wonderful culture and a beutiful country. Find a way to do it - you'll love it.
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:51 PM   #23
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Saludos

Seguiremos pendientes del viaje !!!!!
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Old 02-01-2012, 05:25 AM   #24
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Seguiremos pendientes del viaje !!!!!
Gracias por siguiente conmigo.
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Old 02-01-2012, 07:16 AM   #25
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Amen to that. But let's keep it a secret until we can buy our retirement homes down there cheap before the mass exodus causes the prices to go up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RebelYell View Post
Great pics and enjoy reading about your retirement and motorcycle adventures.I someday hope I can ride mexico myself too and Hope I make it to retirement in this god forsaken state and country.I've been to PV mexico and All I can say is its gorgeous,nothing bad about it.I think they feed us alot of propaganda here in the states because if people really woke up and realized and knew how bad and sucky it really was here there would be a max exodus out of this country and the government would be screwed w a big loss of taxes and money and would be left holding the bag like they really should.Anyway enjoy your retirement and keep the pics coming and be safe god bless;)
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:00 AM   #26
RexBuck OP
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Day 7 – Jan 24

Short day today as only planning on going to Loreto, so hung around Mulege for awhile. Walked around town – generally pretty nice with fairly well kept houses and some touristy shops/restaurants. Seems to be a Gringo influence in areas of the town.

Talked to a dirt biker at the hotel –says he’s been riding and traveling in the Baja for years. He indicatied there used to be a lot of Americans living in Mulege who had built some quite nice houses along the river. Apparently they could keep their boats in the river and motor out to the ocean. However, a hurricane a few years ago caused some massive flooding in the river, wiping many of the houses out and they were never rebuilt. As I was leaving town, noticed there still seemed to be a few houses along there – pretty setting in the palm trees.

Strangely, the mission/church in Mulege is Misión de Santa Rosalia while the town of Santa Rosalia apparently has associations with Santa Barbara. Man, the infighting between the saints must have been/be terrific. While this was one of the early missions established in the early 1700’s, as with many of these buildings along the coast, hurricanes necessitated rebuilding a number of times.

Ride up to Loreto was spectacular. Beautiful coast line – rugged, somewhat like California but with much quieter surf and crystal clear water. Nice twisty road – good pavement. Quite a number of beaches along that stretch are developed for people to park their motorhomes on the beach – pretty cool. Looked to me like a lot of the motorhomes were parked well below high tide mark but I’m sure they watch the tide tables.




Still pretty dry around here


This shrine is typical along the roadways and there are a lot of them. A lot of effort is placed on honoring the dead in Mexico and these shrines can range from a simple cross to shrines such as this (usually a quite a bit smaller) to massive monuments. I thought this one was particularly nice overlooking the bay. They are almost always well cared for and will many times have fresh flowers.


Stopped at a little community of gringo houses I think is called Concepcion. Have a café there and had some great Huevos Rancheros and good coffee.

Arrived in Loreto – nice town. Stayed at the Coco Cabañas. Great motel hidden about 2 blocks from downtown area. Owned by an American and his Mexican wife. Although many Mexican hotels don’t have much formality for sign in, I thought Stephen had a cool sign in system – name address and phone in a big registry book, like in the “olden”days. Nice pool and hot tub. Coffee pot in the room. This was by far the nicest place I've stayed in so far.


Wandering around town and came across “Mikes Bar”- with a name like that, had to stop. One other guy in there – turns out he is from Vernon also – lives across the lake from us. Has a septic pumping company – I think he may have been the guy who did the shitty job with ours a few years ago . . .
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:42 AM   #27
Jick Magger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RexBuck View Post
Short day today as only planning on going to Loreto, so hung around Mulege for awhile. Walked around town – generally pretty nice with fairly well kept houses and some touristy shops/restaurants. Seems to be a Gringo influence in areas of the town.

Talked to a dirt biker at the hotel –says he’s been riding and traveling in the Baja for years. He indicatied there used to be a lot of Americans living in Mulege who had built some quite nice houses along the river. Apparently they could keep their boats in the river and motor out to the ocean. However, a hurricane a few years ago caused some massive flooding in the river, wiping many of the houses out and they were never rebuilt. As I was leaving town, noticed there still seemed to be a few houses along there – pretty setting in the palm trees.

Strangely, the mission/church in Mulege is Misión de Santa Rosalia while the town of Santa Rosalia apparently has associations with Santa Barbara. Man, the infighting between the saints must have been/be terrific. While this was one of the early missions established in the early 1700’s, as with many of these buildings along the coast, hurricanes necessitated rebuilding a number of times.

Ride up to Loreto was spectacular. Beautiful coast line – rugged, somewhat like California but with much quieter surf and crystal clear water. Nice twisty road – good pavement. Quite a number of beaches along that stretch are developed for people to park their motorhomes on the beach – pretty cool. Looked to me like a lot of the motorhomes were parked well below high tide mark but I’m sure they watch the tide tables.




Still pretty dry around here


This shrine is typical along the roadways and there are a lot of them. A lot of effort is placed on honoring the dead in Mexico and these shrines can range from a simple cross to shrines such as this (usually a quite a bit smaller) to massive monuments. I thought this one was particularly nice overlooking the bay. They are almost always well cared for and will many times have fresh flowers.


Stopped at a little community of gringo houses I think is called Concepcion. Have a café there and had some great Huevos Rancheros and good coffee.

Arrived in Loreto – nice town. Stayed at the Coco Cabañas. Great motel hidden about 2 blocks from downtown area. Owned by an American and his Mexican wife. Although many Mexican hotels don’t have much formality for sign in, I thought Stephen had a cool sign in system – name address and phone in a big registry book, like in the “olden”days. Nice pool and hot tub. Coffee pot in the room. This was by far the nicest place I've stayed in so far.


Wandering around town and came across “Mikes Bar”- with a name like that, had to stop. One other guy in there – turns out he is from Vernon also – lives across the lake from us. Has a septic pumping company – I think he may have been the guy who did the shitty job with ours a few years ago . . .
Hey Rex

I am following along here, thinking I would catch up on your report before inquiring where in the Valley you are from. Of course found the answer in your last post. I was surprised when you mentioned being from Vernon and got me thinking. Who is this masked man from my town who rides a pirate ship yet is enlightened enough to have a GS. It took a few minutes but the penny dropped. How you doing Steve? Sounds like a great ride. You have no idea how envious am and will follow along on your journey. I follow multiple RR's into Mexico. Have a blast.... Brian J
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:06 AM   #28
RexBuck OP
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Hey Rex

I am following along here, thinking I would catch up on your report before inquiring where in the Valley you are from. Of course found the answer in your last post. I was surprised when you mentioned being from Vernon and got me thinking. Who is this masked man from my town who rides a pirate ship yet is enlightened enough to have a GS. It took a few minutes but the penny dropped. How you doing Steve? Sounds like a great ride. You have no idea how envious am and will follow along on your journey. I follow multiple RR's into Mexico. Have a blast.... Brian J
Thanks for that BJ and thanks for following along. I'm doing well and having more fun than a person should be allowed. Will be sitting in one spot for a few days so hopefully will get caught up with this report. Cheers
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:05 AM   #29
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Day 8 – Jan 25

Interesting day. Still undecided in the morning whether to stay in Loreto. Was looking forward to seeing San Javier, so decided to set out.

Heading out of town, realized I had not eaten anything and was hoping to find something on the way. Right at the start of the road to San Javier, pulled into a cool restaurant/bar catering to Gringos. Good breakfast and good atmosphere – busy place.

Looks like you could even get a room

Where I'm headed



First part of road to San Javier is paved and twisty and a lot of fun. Spectacular scenery as it winds up a little canyon. Last third or so is good gravel road. I was expecting to take a long time to get here but but only took 45 minutes including a brief stop.



San Javier is a very cool setting. There is a little town there with a long coble stone road and the church at the foot. Road lined with shops, etc. I think you can even get a room there.





Beautiful old church – interior well restored and somewhat gaudy but not unusual.





My understanding of the efforts to establish Missions (churchs) in the lower Californias was that the Jesuits first tried in La Paz in the late 1600’s but were rebuffed by the natives. Were finally able to establish the first Mission in Loreto at the loacation of the current Misión but this structure has been rebuilt a number of times being destroyed by hurricanes, etc and bears little resemblance to the original. The second Misión to be established was at Misión San Francisco Javier and since it is inland and protected from the ravages of hurricanes, is still the original building.

Apparently the Jesuits wanted to establish a whole string of missions each within a day's donkey ride from the next. Got a couple dozen done. The Spanish King suspected the Jesuits were amassing a lot of wealth and eventually kicked them out and that is when the Franciscans took over and started expanding into upper California. There, your history lesson for the day.

You can see the thickness of the walls by looking at the windows.





Found the olive tree located well behind the church. Apparently was planted by one of the Jesuit priests at the time the Misión was built making it around 300 years old. I’ll probably look pretty gnarly like that long before I get to be that old.





Some of the many gardens around the church



People kept asking me if I was continuing on the road west of San Javier. Said yes and they would say things like “It’s doable” and “Don’t worry there are some farmers along there if you need anything” – Jeebus! What is this road like?

Very interesting road and other than the last 10 or 15 km, was quite enjoyable. It basically follows a river bed crossing it dozens of times. There would be a lot of interesting water crossings if trying this in the rainy season. Judging by the size of the boulders and the size of the river bed, that must be one wild ass torrent when it is flooding. The road crosses back and forth and in some cases runs right up the river bed.

Donkeys, horses and goats wandering around. Some parts of this "river" consisted entirely of bolders like the one in the forground and it would be a good 100 yards wide.



It appears so dry and arid in that whole area, I don’t know how those farmers make it.



Road condition of this part ranged from washboard to rocky to gravel – wasn’t bad. Either washboard or shallow sand. The washboard vibrated a couple of screws loose holding the headlight and windshield on. The sand was ok (I’m not a sand rider) but it was deep enough that the bike was wiggling around if you didn’t pay attention. The last chunk (western end) was just annoying. It was very large washboard that went all the way across the road with no smooth shoulders to escape on.
Here is some of the pretty smooth part and one of the dry water crossings



The rest of the afternoon was consumed heading to La Paz. Hindsight being what it is, it would have made more sense to stop in Ciudad Constitucion for the night and then have a leisurely ride to the La Paz ferry in the morning. As it was, got into La Paz late and started scouting for a hotel. Forgot to note recommendations before I left so was floundering around (this becomes a recurring theme – you’d think somebody would figure this out). Finally wandered into one place and they wanted $150 – jajajajaja. Sent me up three blocks to the Bugambilos which is a big old place with a locked compound for the bike. Suits me fine. Got them down to $50 which was better than 3 times that. Had some great tacos down the street.

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Old 02-02-2012, 02:07 PM   #30
Baja Ho
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Thanks for the road pics past San Javier. Will be crossing there on my loop from Cabo in a week or so. Did that road in 06 a few weeks after a storm passed through and yes there were at least twelve creek crossings and you could not tell on some of them where the road continud on the other side, also we came out on Mex1 about twenty miles East from Ciudad Insurgentes, some silt down there. Thanks for posting.
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