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Old 02-19-2012, 06:09 PM   #106
LS650
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Subscribed - great report so far!
I lived in Oaxaca state from 2004 to 2007, and I am really enjoying your pictures and comments.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:28 PM   #107
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Subscribed - great report so far!
I lived in Oaxaca state from 2004 to 2007, and I am really enjoying your pictures and comments.
Thanks for that LS650. Been in Oaxaca state for the past week and it is phenominal.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:50 PM   #108
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Day 27 - Feb 13

First thing this morning, went next door and wandered around their little market.
Girl selling peppers


Carnicería (Meat market) - deep fried pork rind in the front


Some traditional garb


Lady with a basket on her back - probably doing her shopping


Left this morning expecting a somewhat relaxing pavement ride. I knew Hwy 15 joined Hwy 125 a bit down the road. GPS tells me to turn on a little side street, says “Road to Hwy 125” – made sense. Holy cow, this Hwy 125 is a mess. Huge patches of potholes. Man, if this whole couple hundred km is like this, it’s going to be a long day. Suddenly realize I’m still on “the road to Hwy 125” and its 40km to the turn.

Could turn around and go back to 15 till it joins 125 or carry on – let’s just see what’s over the next hill. Not a great road but not bad . . . then the potholes became more frequent – then the pavement became less frequent then dirt road with periodic pieces of pavement that were like hitting square rocks. Eventually gave way to a mediocre dirt road. Road is used a lot by locals so pretty beat up and dusty.

Meandered through a number of small communities. Must have been some event going in one as there were people walking, riding in backs of trucks, etc. Ladies with their traditional dresses on, some older men with their satchels. Continue to see beautiful country – more forest than open plains like yesterday.


Finally got to Hwy 125. Seemed to be a fair number of small towns and wide spots in the road and everybody has to have their set of topes. Still quite a few potholes so had to be pretty cautious. Couple of really nice stretches of twisites – the best stretch had about 5 km of nice twisties and another 20 km or so of what would have been nice twisties but had a couple of inches of pea gravel spread on it. Got to Pinotepa Nacional – probably should have called it a day there. But, had set my sites on Puerto Escondido.

Booked into Hotel Inez – pricy (600p) but too bagged to go look somewhere else. Quite nice. Big room, small kitchen, set up for North Am tourists. Entire hotel seems to be full of Americans and Canadians. Nice enough people.




Went walking down the street looking for a restaurant. Interesting mix of people – reminds more of Maui. Whole bunch of geezers and whole bunch of young folks, mostly here surfing. Party time!




Found a restaurant that looked reasonably busy, got a table, ordered a Negro Modelo and a Hamburger. Beer came, bread came, condiments came . . . noticed others who had come in well after me getting served. Waitress was ignoring me. Finally got her attention and asked for my bill for the beer and left. No apology, didn’t ask if I wanted to wait just: “25 pesos” . . . ok, here ya go . . . only time on this trip I have not tipped – usually pretty decent (and well deserved) tips since the bills are so small.

I think the Mexicans are a bit jaded towards gringos in this town which might explain the crappy service. Probably just me – tired and too much of a culture shock coming from the simplicity in the mountains to the glitz of a Gringo resort town.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:46 PM   #109
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Can't know for sure since I wasn't with you but my experience says that a hamburger is typically the menu item a restaurant down there is least prepared to serve in a timely manner. They'll still accept your order and try but the results may not be so great. By my experience, anyway.

I usually wait until I encounter a McDonalds or even a VIPs to satisfy my burger jones. When pressed for time I ask the server to make recommendations. Those are always served more promptly.

YMMV
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:26 PM   #110
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Can't know for sure since I wasn't with you but my experience says that a hamburger is typically the menu item a restaurant down there is least prepared to serve in a timely manner. They'll still accept your order and try but the results may not be so great. By my experience, anyway.

I usually wait until I encounter a McDonalds or even a VIPs to satisfy my burger jones. When pressed for time I ask the server to make recommendations. Those are always served more promptly.

YMMV
Yah, not usually what I order. Generally don't order a hamburgesa unless it's flashed all over the marque outside and at the top of the menu inside with a whole bunch of varieties - which it was in this case. Some of the Mexican hamburgers have been pretty decent but, like I say, not my usual choice. When in Rome, etc.
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:16 AM   #111
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Days 28 & 29 - Feb 14 & 15

Wanted to go to Zipolite since so many people have raved about it. Only an hour’s ride from Puerto Escondido – see, another reason should have stayed in Pinotepa.

Looked for a couple of places I’d read about, couldn’t find them. Guy directed me to another – price was right, 150p and the owner was a nice guy but, the room was just too dungeny for what I felt like living in for a couple of days. Finally went down towards the north end of the beach and probably overpaid for what I got, but its ok. 300p internet, park in front of the room but not secured, no hot water. But, nice beach location. Little bar and restaurant, watch the surf, watch the people. Really nice young family own it. Great!

Well, the beach is . . . very relaxed. This is kind of Corona commercial stuff – expansive beach, surf crashing in, favorite beverage . . . Learned the attraction of hammocks.







Quite an interesting mix of people. Old to young of every dimension. About 90%+ are wearing clothes. The others, hmmmm. A few guys strutting around, some old people, mostly couples, few middle ager couples. As I saw one lady in the distance, I thought “what a baggy suit she has”. . .ooops! More than once I thought of running to the store to find some eye bleach. Some people really should think of others before making some choices in their lives. I opted to be considerate of others and maintain a little decorum – I just think there are certain parts of the male body that shouldn’t have a tan.

Funky town, quite enjoyed it. Tons of little restaraunts. Business not too bad. Old folks, surfers and hippies about sums it up. Kind of an “Alice’s Restaurant” atmosphere.

Checked out some other hotels here and in a couple of neighboring towns for my return with Mrs Rexbuck. Zipolite has a very unique atmosphere while the other town that I found attractive is next door at San Augustinillo. Nice places – impression was that the beach and town are a bit more conservative.
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Old 02-22-2012, 04:28 PM   #112
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great report.
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Old 02-22-2012, 08:08 PM   #113
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great report.
Thanks for following along cycleman.
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Old 02-22-2012, 08:47 PM   #114
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"what a baggy suit she has"
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:22 AM   #115
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Day 30 - Feb 16

Discovered a few more pics of Zipolite that I couldn’t find for yesterday’s posting
Some of the many Hostels on the beach


Looking down the beach - it goes to those hills in the background


Sitting in front of my room with another of my favorite friends, Bohemia Obscura


The knife sharpener – I just thought this was cool. Guy would just carry his machine from store to store doing knives. Have since seen more of these elsewhere.


Was getting ready to leave for Oaxaca and a guy wanders up to my bike and introduces himself as kennyanc, a fellow inmate here. Didn’t have a lot of time to chat but hope to get together with him when I come back.

Mrs Rexbuck arriving in Oaxaca tomorrow (Yahoo!) so, heading over today to get ready for her arrival in the morning.

Rode over on the spectacular Hwy 175. In the first 40 km, the road climbs to over 7000 feet, cresting later at over 9000 feet. What a fun road! Amazing tight curves, pavement below 7000 feet is great – rough in places, above 7000 gets a bit pot holy but, amazing vistas of mountains, valleys, little villages perched on hillsides, etc.




This little community was at around 9000 feet altitude


The only flat spot around for houses is on top of the mountain


Temps started the morning in the low 20s and by the time I started to loose altitude from the peak, it was down to 15.5 – brrr. Level out at 5000 feet and it was a balmy 34 in the afternoon. (For those of you not fluent in C, that would be low 70’s, 60, 93 deg F)

Now, the road was most bitchin! . . . for the first half. The second half was crap, flat, ugly towns with beat up roads and a City. I’d do it again (and will, probably twice this trip) in a heartbeat.

Stopped at a little restaurant run by a couple of ladies – had a whole bunch of pots of stuff simmering away on their wood fired stoves. Had chicken and rice soup – unlike Campbells Soup, this on only had one piece of chicken but it was about 2/3 of a breast. Hmmmm.good!






Here is a picture of their pretty nice Baños (bathroom). Quick guide to a Mexican low-tech toilet (yes, many places have flush toilets). Notice there is no toilet tank on the toilet. When finished, go outside, get that bucket on the fence, dip a bucketfull of water out of the big barrel in front and pour it into the toilet. Simple.


Oh, and used toilet paper goes in the waste basket that is always next to the toilet. Some of the older plumbing systems won't handle the paper and they get miffed if they figure you plugged up their biff with paper. That is their custom, so I can honor that.


Tried to take it easy and get used to going over Topes slowly when I have Mrs Rexbuck on the back. Still forget myself and do a tope pass around a truck grinding over a tope and through some potholes – sit down, and say “Hmmm, I don’t think that will go too well if I keep that up.”

Got to the Hotel Maela – what a gem. Right downtown about 7 blocks from the Zócolo, nice entrance, secure parking, big room with a King Sized bed and a double bed to spread all my crap out on, with a stove & fridge, hot water and good WiFi – 600p.

Wow – this town is magic! Wandered down towards the Zócolo looking for dinner. Thought I’d find food pretty quick but this place was so alive, I just kept walking enthralled by the people, sounds and variety of stuff going on. Just kept walking and all of a sudden I was at the Zócolo and now it was sensory overdrive. There people everywhere, mainly just enjoying the night. Individuals, couples, families, street vendors, entertainment – all at once. There was an orchestra set up in the bandstand, there were clowns, buskers, performers on other stages and on and on.

I finally just sat down at one of the many restaraunts – looked at the menu under the Oaxaca food section, didn’t recognize any of the items so just chose one to see what would come up. Chapulines turns out to be a very popular local food – bascily crushed grasshoppers with some spices. Served with guacamole and salsa. It was really good – salty. Quite liked it other than the odd leg that would get stuck in my teeth. I didn't have my camera with me but here is a pic of what they look like
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:30 AM   #116
tricepilot
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As I saw one lady in the distance, I thought “what a baggy suit she has”. . .ooops! More than once I thought of running to the store to find some eye bleach.
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:25 AM   #117
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Thumb Great report

Thanks for sharing, love Mexico reports.
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:08 PM   #118
RexBuck OP
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Thanks for sharing, love Mexico reports.
Mexico reports are fun to read but not as fun as being here.
But I think you already know that.

Thanks for tagging along.
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:51 AM   #119
Saeed
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Great ride report! Waiting for more
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:11 AM   #120
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More photos of road food!!!!
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