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Old 04-07-2012, 06:38 PM   #46
johnwesley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shakakaan View Post
The engine temp is sent to the Vapor gauge unit by a connection to the spark plug.


...but the spark plug well is going to be a tight fit. Unsure of how this will work out, I'll just try cramming it down in there.

And you can see here, it didn't hold up too well to the abuse.

...and it looks like it will need to be extended...oh well, that's for another day.

I just put the temp sensor on the front head mount bolt. Works fine in my application and never have to fool with it again or until I decide to have a set of heads built. That will be along ways down the line. .
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Old 04-29-2012, 12:29 PM   #47
DRZ400SM1981
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What happened?

What happened to the build? I need some more inspiration!
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Old 05-20-2012, 06:29 AM   #48
I Am Murphy OP
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I'm back.

I had to drop out for a while to take care of business, but after so much time away from my sporty it really felt great to get back in the garage and start checking things off my list.

Now because I'm planning a trip to Florida on the bike by myself and another to Deal's Gap with my dad, I really just have to get this girl back together for now. So I'm settling on a midpoint - I will finish:
1) the wiring
2) the tank
3) the axle
4) the front brakes.
This should have me road ready for my trips, but will leave plenty of mods to work on next winter and after my trips in general.
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:27 AM   #49
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While I was inactive, I bought this mobile tool cart. Harbor Freight had a coupon in the American Legion magazine selling it for $90. Ball bearing drawers and truly quality operation. Of course I drove home only to find that it was smashed beyond repair and had to drive an hour back to exchange it, but all the trouble aside I am really glad I did the legwork. I can roll this dude over to my bike, and sit on my seat while I rework the front, I've got beers and a power strip on the cart, full sets of metric and standard sockets and wrenches, Milwaukee 18V Li Ion impact and drill, soldering gear, full range of screwdrivers and electrical tools, heat gun, etc - all at my side, no need to get up every two seconds.
It was nice to be able to shift gears and get back into bike mode, and really nice to have been reorganized and optimized for bike work (the complete garage overhaul was part of the business I was taking care of during my exodus, and was a worthy task indeed). I have spent two evenings with the bike over this week, and have made good progress with the ride ready checklist already.
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:06 AM   #50
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Electrical

I started with electrical work, part because wiring is something I already deal with regularly, and part because despite my high hopes and big plans, this is the task most likely to create new problems, this is the surgery compared to the boo boo that will be the front axle and brake. The tank will be a bit of a surgery, but it'll be an outpatient procedure. Wiring is going to require a few days' observation after the O.R...
I will be creating a "breakout" design for my handlebars - after going through the process of removing the bars the first time, I want to establish a system that will allow me to do so with a little more ease next time. All the wiring from the bars will be run through connectors of some kind or another, so I won't have to leave headlights dangling when I want to take my bars off. (The big plan, is to eventually put in an inline no spill double check QD on the brake line, the plan won't be complete without this.)

I used this multipin connector to run the wires out of the clutch and brake levers into the dash.


I wired the other half of the connector to the OEM plugs from the brake and shift levers. They will snap together behind the dash now, and this will allow me to make the indicator lights reach the indicator cluster.


Because I took a shortcut in my wiring before, which resulted in an electrical fire, I rewired all the components along the midframe. I added in quick disconnect points and labels, for obvious benefit.


Under the seat was some of my worst wiring, things had just been thrown in haphazardly between rides, to the point that there was just an entanglement of wires beyond interpretation. The fire was a perfect excuse to make something readable of my under-seat wiring.


So all wiring along the frame is complete.

Under the seat, along the frame, control lever wires all complete. I wired up the turn signals with cheap spade and socket disconnects, but I intend to run them eventually through the dash as well.
All wiring nearing completion, I did a quick check to make sure all my circuits are still complete and (drumroll...). The only light that works is the turn signal that was previously inoperative. So I'll move on and do other things while I let this one simmer in my subconscious...

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Old 05-20-2012, 09:21 AM   #51
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Finalize Front Brake

I spent some time online, looking at hand pumps for bleeding brakes, and reading reviews, and saw a lot of people not really diggin' the hand pump. I didn't want to buy something that would turn my toolbox into a trashcan, but I didn't want to spend a fortune on a bleeding system that would get used twice a year either. It was in Sears that I had the vision: I could buy the cup that's made for the hand pump for 5 dollars...and I have my vacuum pump for HVAC work, all I would need to do is epoxy a refrigerant hose fitting to the cup's vacuum port and I could pull a vacuum the old fashioned way, with a vacuum pump!

This is the setup I used, and I had my dad to keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder and fill it as I spill it. The brakes work great...

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Old 05-20-2012, 09:28 AM   #52
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Finalize Front Axle

Not really worth any photos, but since it was on the checklist:
I bought a full front axle overhaul kit because I didn't know how much of the axle was there and I didn't think my home made bike lift would lift my home with it's increased ground clearance, so I didn't try to lift it up and tear it down to check. But it turned out all that was missing was the speedometer gear housing - a component needed only to take up the extra space on the axle, since I'm not using the Honda speedo. So I regreased it and threw it all together...and my home made lift had just enough beef to get her off the ground, though after I raise the rear I'll probably have to add a 2 by 8 to the lift to continue using it.
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:05 AM   #53
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Turn Signal Connector

After I finished working on the bike for the day my fiancee, MaryAnn, asks me to come to the mall with her so we can split up and send her off to look at clothes. Just by chance I end up bored and wandering into Radio Shack, where I decided I would use a computer style DB-9 connector to interface the lights to the dash. What a find, $8 total damage.



...and just for my own personal record, my wires:

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Old 05-20-2012, 02:20 PM   #54
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Fuel Tank, Temporary

I'm still very interested in my fiberglass fabrication but for the time being, I really just need a fuel cell to get me back on the road. Also, with my remachined steering pin I know there is really no going back to the way things used to be, so the only possible value my original tank is worth is what it could fetch me on eBay, and they charge insane sales fees. All this led me to the decision to hack up the original tank and just slam something together for now that'll put me back on the road. After the welding I will sandblast the whole tank, coat with a clear boat epoxy, and top off with a spar varnish with some warming tone for a final product that has kind of an aged yellow metal look. I've only ever used this stuff on wood though, so the outcome will be a bit of a surprise...good thing this tank is only intended as a spare, but I have a feeling it's going to look really cool.

Here I have just started the cutting.

It only burned up one and a half cutting wheels on my little Dremel!


Here you can see that the mod will effectively eliminate the steering issues that resulted from the Honda front end installation.


And here it can be sen from another angle, along with the mudguard I added sort of on a whim.

I Am Murphy screwed with this post 05-20-2012 at 06:22 PM
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Old 05-22-2012, 05:21 AM   #55
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Going over the DB-9 wiring and mounting in my head, I bumped into a small issue. The connector takes a good bit of force to plug AND unplug...the plug and socket have inline mounting holes, and the backshell has assigned mounting screws. If I put the base of the socket on the outside of the dash, the dash will offer the needed resistance to plug in, but not to unplug. If to the inside, the opposite problem. If I screw the socket to the dash independently of the the plug, I forego the backshell's assigned mounting screws and the confidence in the connector's ability to hold out among vibration.
The problem will be solved with a bracket. It will be made of the same aluminum to match the indicator light / battery gauge panel. The bases of the DB-9 sockets will rest on top of the dash and below the bracket. Hopefully I can machine the bracket well enough that any imperfections in my Dremel work on the dash will be concealed.
Because half of the DB-9's are already installed, I am using pictures next to a scale for the bracket's holes.

Length, DB-9 base

Width, DB-9 base

Mounting hole, Dim. 1

Mounting hole, Dim. 2

Bracket envelope, Dim. 1

Bracket envelope, Dim. 2

And this is approximately what I will machine.
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Old 05-24-2012, 08:05 PM   #56
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DB-9 Mounting bracket

In general, the common opinion seems to be that DB-9 for incandescent lights may be a poor choice, but I'm already invested so we'll just have to see. It probably would've been a good idea to calculate current and connector capacity before getting so deep into this...
That said, I machined the DB-9 mounting bracket today.

Marked, form taken from drawing, dimensioned based on measurements from dashboard and connector.


First I milled out the shallow portion to countersink the connector into the bracket.

The shallowly milled out recess was still too deep to allow me to trace the face of the DB-9, as was my initial intention. So I did my best to mark the corners without moving the connector and freehand the the shape into the recess.

It was a tedious process and I settled for less than perfection, but not by enough that it would show when it's all assembled.

I ripped out the majority of that middle portion with the band saw. I couldn't get all of it out, but that wound up making a nice addition to the design, something more artistic than functional, but I didn't know it yet...

...I set out to mill off the rest of the unwanted portion, but it was the angular cuts that had forced me to settle for less than perfection on the previous millwork - so I cut out what I could do easily and left the rest. It was here that I decided there might be a benefit to maintaining this unplanned shape.

So I roughly leveled off the edges that had survived the band saw and the mill, countersunk the screw holes, and called it a day.
Not bad, and all within the span of my lunch break!
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Old 05-26-2012, 11:05 AM   #57
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Fuel Tank, Continued

Motivation is dragging. I have a solid wiring problem that needs to be solved, but first I have to complete the faulty rewiring so I have a circuit to test.
The fuel tank is coming along a piece at a time, but it's been a really slow process.
Sandblasting alone will have taken probably three hours by the time I get all the paint off. Then there is all the welding; the clear epoxy has to dry for a week between coats (there will be at least three coats), and the varnish topcoat I estimate should go quickly...if I do this afterall; I might just take it to a paint shop and try to make it look closer to the original black...And at long last, I will have to pour in a Caswell Coating tank bladder, which dries over a few days...so if everything goes well I might have my tank done in a month and a half...just in time for the Tail of the Dragon. -Fingers crossed!

So today I knocked out a lot of the foundational work on the tank-

The sheet and elbows had to be tacked first to the tank,

and then the excess plate cut off.

Then I sandblasted the area where the I.D. plate will be attached, and used a heat gun to scrape off the decal ( FYI, it would have been hard to use this technique to remove the decal if I had been hoping to keep the paint).

With all the prep ready, I moved on to the welding.

The plate was made of stainless, but I still had to have a full weld to ensure that moisture wouldn't collect between the two surfaces and rust my tank from the inside out.

Next the elbows and front plate needed to be welded to form a full seal...

...and I followed that up by taping off the plate and sandblasting the top of the tank - just had to see that metallic surface with my own eyes.
(Plate reads:
HAWK 8

FRONT END:
HONDA XL600R, 1984

MAIN:
HD 883 CUSTOM, 2001

LAIRD 2012)

As my work on the tank for the day approached its end, I made a couple hoses to close off the bottom openings and put caps on the top openings except the fill port. With compressed air and spray soap I leak checked all the welds, and then the few pinholes were repaired.

Once all the found holes had been closed, I sanded all the welds down to an acceptable finish and did a final leak check to end the day.

I Am Murphy screwed with this post 05-26-2012 at 11:55 AM
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Old 05-26-2012, 02:14 PM   #58
scarysharkface
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I think this is pretty cool.
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Old 06-07-2012, 03:56 PM   #59
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Mockup

I have been flying through the motions lately, in hopes that I can get her back up and running for July's many plans. As a result I didn't put as much effort into process documentation photos.
Here she is with the tank just placed for fitment.


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Old 06-07-2012, 04:12 PM   #60
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Tank

Tank has progressed nicely, I hope to at least fire it up this weekend, even if the lights don't work.

Spent a few hours over the weekend scraping off paint with a heat gun to cut down my sandblasting time...


Sandblasted, taped off ID plate and painted. I'm using EHT satin black epoxy paint - this stuff is awesome, cures for 7 days tougher than Chuck Norris' beard.



(I pulled a few other items to sandblast and paint, since I'm stuck waiting anyway...)


Here's the paint I like, and I use it as liberally as the old lady in the Frank's Redhot commercials. Also featured is the Caswell tank repair coating, I figured I'd rather put it in now and take no chances.


Once the paint had had the chance to dry, I taped off a perimeter about an inch up from the bottom...in preparation of an idea with which I've wanted to experiment for a long time.


Then wrapped the upper portion with Lowe's bags attached to the masking tape by duct tape.


And finally I blasted the underside of the tank with spray on bed liner (rubberizing compound).

Tomorrow I'll get to remove the tape and check it out, and I have high hopes that I'll even get to take her around the block this weekend!
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