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Old 01-05-2013, 04:00 PM   #76
I Am Murphy OP
Vagabond Sportster
 
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Taneytown, MD
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Cool2 New Exhaust


Kerker makes a 2 into1 exhaust assembly that looked ideal for fording, but at almost $800, it wasn't likely to happen anytime soon. I started talking to Earl Luhn at T-Bone & Earl's Cycle Shop in Taneytown, MD about the cost of fabricating something with a similar function, but a gnarlier look, and after two consultations and a couple days of thumbnail biting, I went in and picked it up. I was torn between a large Suzuki muffler and the 2009 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R, and as you can see, the Kawasaki won. It was a comination of labor costs and simplicity of maintenance that made the decision for me in the end.

All the piping is made from my original drag pipes except this hard bend joining the 2nd head into the 1st. Because the drag pipes were oversized OD, the only thing he had laying around that was a match was the header pipe from a Suzuki Savage.

Earl came up with this idea which I really liked, he turned the saddle bag support into an exhaust bracket. Next I'll be making an ID plate similar to the one I put on the tank, particularly since I'll need to know what muffler I'm running in order to change the seal where it mounts to the pipe.

With the new exhaust in place, I'm finally able to use the rear controls on the brake side. This has been a long time coming, and it feels great to have my controls located with some symmetry.

Up next I'll be looking into turning some ammo cans into panniers, and slightly modifying an old foot peg to mount where my forward control once was.

I Am Murphy screwed with this post 01-06-2013 at 06:19 PM Reason: Gramatical Error
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:05 PM   #77
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Hand Guards & Hood Ornaments


I took the old broken Willie G Skull gas cap, mounted threed 1/4-20 nuts in the back and filled it with epoxy, it mounted up to make a nice front ornament. I also cut up an old pair of welding boots and removed the leather wrapped steel top plates, slammed together a couple of aluminum brackets, and mounted them through the control lever pins. It was a pretty easy job, and it felt really great to finally have a purpose for that old leather...I hate to waste good leather!
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:00 PM   #78
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Winter Pants

Okay so I realize this isn't exactly a part of the bike, but I consider it to be an accessory to the bike. Too small of an idea to become its own thread, too much a part of the overall product to be left out entirely, I was handed down a pair of leather riding pants from a friend at work. The leather alone offers enough quality wind breaking to extend my cold weather rides a good bit, but soaks up like a sponge in the rain. Also as they are right now, I have to take my boots off to get in and out of these pants. I should probably just leave well enough alone, but I hate taking my boots off at work, and I don't like the idea of having different pants for rainy vs cold days. I'm a one size fits all kinda guy, and I want one pair of bad weather pants that I can keep strapped to the bike for any occasion.

They're nice pants, from Wilson's Leather. I want to maintain as much of the original style as possible, while molding the function into something a little more vagabond ready.

I'm cutting up the length of the legs so I can sew in a long section of zipper. I'm going to do this on the back side of the pants; I think the front would be easier to get in and out of, but would probably be hard to water proof.

I set out to find 3 layer Gore-Tex fabric by the sheet--and with fine success--but ended up going with a material called Antron. Gore-Tex was going to run about $25 per linear yard, the Antron was on clearance. Rockywoods.com has all kinds of great fabrics for outdoor applications, fasteners and hardware and sealing compounds, but I couldn't find any zippers longer than 7", so it looks like it's gonna be JoAnn Fabrics, or repurposing some Goodwill jackets.
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:34 PM   #79
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Super Gloves


Also to extend my cold weather rides, I added some length to my gloves and stop the flow of cold air running up through my sleeves. A quick cut to my old Matterhorns, two evenings of heavy stitching, and the Super Gloves are complete. Perhaps at some point I'll try waterproofing the seam, but they're pretty sturdy as is.

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Old 01-08-2013, 10:13 PM   #80
JimmyTheHog
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Hey Murphy - nice fab work on the exhaust. Looks like youve got it covered now, but if youre interested, I have a Vance & Hines SS2R exhaust (looks like the Kerker) that I had on my 03 sportster. I'd let it go cheap if you want it. Just needs a muffler hanger bracket or you can have my billet hanger that needs a tig weld and it should work.
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:24 PM   #81
I Am Murphy OP
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Winter Pants Follow Up


Finally got the zippers in. $2.00 each on Amazon, three days waiting for shipment, and three more sewing in the evenings. The pants are far more convenient to get in and out of...I just wish I'd had 'em when I got stuck in the rain for 30 more miles today. Oh well, I'm not used to the luxury of staying dry yet anyway. I received the Antron material yesterday, now it's time to tackle the planning that will have to go into lining the pants. The material looks pretty nice, and I made sure to get a little extra so I can line a full suit with color match.
Cheers!
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:19 PM   #82
ben2go
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Beautiful work.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:21 AM   #83
I Am Murphy OP
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Cool2 Winter Pants, Final


There is still some final stitching and seam sealing to be done inside, but the Antron liner is in for the most part, and this morning offered the perfect opportunity to test 'em out.


...after a thirty minute wet ride to work this morning, the results are in. The next test will need to be much more stringent to really proof the concept, but at least I know I can get to work and stay dry...perhaps next time I will tuck my work pants into my boot as well...

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Old 01-17-2013, 11:48 PM   #84
kellymac530
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Were they warm enough?
The damp bottoms is mostly because of wicking moisture from the bottom edge of the over pants. Tucking your regular pants into the boots first will probably stop most of that.
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:55 PM   #85
I Am Murphy OP
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Originally Posted by kellymac530 View Post
Were they warm enough?
The damp bottoms is mostly because of wicking moisture from the bottom edge of the over pants. Tucking your regular pants into the boots first will probably stop most of that.
I've worn them now down to 34 degrees. For my tastes they're warm enough, but I tend to prefer working on the bike in the summer's heat over being cold, and riding in the winter over summer's inescapable sun...so I don't mind a bit of a chill. I've got a full leather snow suit I put together two winters ago, I'll generally throw that on if it's below 25-30 degrees out, and honestly that is probably my favorite riding all year--the suit keeps you just warm enough, and just by chance I get this lucky breeze that runs up the legs and through the suit, perfect climate control. ...And your'e right about the wicking, we had rain all week here, but with the pant legs tucked in I stayed good and dry.
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:00 PM   #86
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Good job. I am all about saving money when I can.
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:15 PM   #87
WhicheverAnyWayCan
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Just found this thread.. am a little behind on few sportster building thread I didn't know until tonight..

I see that you are done with the fuel tank there? Nice work! I am still contemplating on what I want to do about my fuel tank. Most likely going to build my own fuel tank but think I am gonna try to build a 6-7 gallons tank using 5052 H32 1/4" aluminum plate (think I can drop down from 1/4" to .90" but still researching). The reason I am going with that aluminum is because it came highly recommended by both hot rodders and airplane builders as it has no chemical react and is strong enough. I know some use 3003 (if I have # correct) but I just thought that I would share that info in case you might want to consider it for your Aux tank project. Also any idea how many gallons on your fuel tank?

And interesting choice of fairing/dashboard.

I'll follow your thread from now on to see what progress you have done as you go along.
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:44 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhicheverAnyWayCan View Post
Just found this thread.. am a little behind on few sportster building thread I didn't know until tonight..

I see that you are done with the fuel tank there? Nice work! I am still contemplating on what I want to do about my fuel tank. Most likely going to build my own fuel tank but think I am gonna try to build a 6-7 gallons tank using 5052 H32 1/4" aluminum plate (think I can drop down from 1/4" to .90" but still researching). The reason I am going with that aluminum is because it came highly recommended by both hot rodders and airplane builders as it has no chemical react and is strong enough. I know some use 3003 (if I have # correct) but I just thought that I would share that info in case you might want to consider it for your Aux tank project. Also any idea how many gallons on your fuel tank?

And interesting choice of fairing/dashboard.

I'll follow your thread from now on to see what progress you have done as you go along.
I like the aluminum idea, I agree with your sources entirely it's a great material and very workable. I don't have an exact figure and haven't really tried to figure out how much fuel my tank holds, but the based on the effect the change had on my costs at the pump I am guessing that the portion I cut out had little to no effect on the volume. But it didn't hold much to begin with, so I am anxious to put together an auxiliary supply system.
Thanks for checking out the project, I'll have to stop by and see what you're working on!
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:45 PM   #89
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Dashboard Revisited

I finally had some free time to mess around with the Murph this week, and decided to use it to make the dashboard a little more maintenance-friendly. The switches I put in were done in a bit of a hurry and were wired directly from the solder points on the switch contacts to the terminal block below the seat. Even if those wires were to be quickly separable, the dash electronics are still interfaced to the bike through various harnesses and connectors of all different lengths and orientations. Separating the dash from the bike is a huge pain, and I aim to change that. When this is done there will be a new harness running the length of the frame and interfacing the dash to the system. The dash will separate from the bike cleanly, any wiring that stays with the dash will do so without hanging loosely.

First I snipped all the switch wires, labeling the ends resident on the bike as I went.

I began crimping sockets to the switch wires on the dashboard, installing them into the Weidmuller connector and recording pinouts. Next I would cut the OEM harnesses and plan for their installation into the connector.

The OEM harnesses for left and right handlebar controls fit into the 24 pin Weidmuller along with the conductors for the turn signals. Still Have room left for three out of four switches, but I want to wait and use yellow insulated wires. The goal here, other than of course keeping the wiring compact and neat, was to zip tie the conductors in such a way that the Weidmuller connectors will act as though affixed to the dashboard back panel.

On the other side I connected the dashboard wiring and indicator lights. Cutting the leads attached to the Vapor Gauge didn't turn out to be a standard operation, there was some sort of nylon inside the casing, and as small as the wires were it seemed less damaging to just melt it away rather than try to cut it. I still don't know if the gauge power and transducer signals will come through okay, but I can only find out by finishing the project. Got my fingers crossed. I trimmed and connected the battery gauge.



** These are here only as a personal reference **

Next I prepared to build the large control harness that would reconnect the dash to the overall machine, starting with the left and right signal connectors.

I passed the indicator signals through the 36 pin Weidmuller connector and bundled them to the left and right control signal harnesses.


I cut the yellow insulated wires to what I hope will prove to be an excessive length. I need to run about twelve more conductors to serve as spares before I can button this thing up, and while I hate stopping in the middle to wait for more wire, I believe it would be worse to need signals later and have to deconstruct or bypass the whole harness. The two large sections of shrink tube furthest to the left will just serve as guides, I'll shrink them in place to help create a solid form. The two to the right will act as end caps on a heat resistant fiberglass exhaust wrap. Once all the conductors are in place, the wrap will cover them from the front to a point just past the engine.

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Old 07-13-2013, 01:45 PM   #90
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Dashboard Harness

Finished this a while ago, but was more excited about riding it than documenting it. Anyway, the wires had been laid out and labelled, the plans had already been drawn up in a full schematic, and all leads had been laid out with more than enough excess to account for changes or reroutes. By the time the spring hit and the air was warm enough to install it, it was a simple matter of deciding the routing, cutting to length and connecting per schematics…on to the next thing
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