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Old 02-16-2015, 10:16 AM   #1
NevBlu OP
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Joined: Feb 2014
Location: Carson City, NV
Oddometer: 154
KTM LC4 640E, engine rebuild

2001 KTM LC4 640E -
As my introduction please enjoy and contribute to my learning, challenges, and progress with my engine rebuild. My engine had about 20,000 miles, but Murphy's law pops up when you least expect it. The postings that will follow are meant to help others and capture my own progress.

First, for general inspiration there are reasons we ride to various locals to see remote terrain and coastal areas too. Here is a Pacific coast photo from one of many MC trips to the peninsula, Baja California Norte and Sur. When finished, more areas will be visited with this fresh and enhanced motor.
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Old 02-16-2015, 12:00 PM   #2
NevBlu OP
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Crank and rod, where's the rest?

Many other components were worked on previously or concurrently, so I will post those later, e.g. replacing and/or rebuilding the valves, cylinder plating, water pump, swing arm bearings, carburetor, shock valving, exhaust, and etc.

Receiving the two finished parts shown in the photo from the machine shop will allow reassembly to progress. This full rebuild is more than just charging the battery. Wishing I knew then what I know now!
New ProX connection rod and bottom end bearings, and slight weight removed from crank webs.
Total weight 484.0 grams for the following: Wossner 852DA piston 100.94 mm, Rings 1010XSY-T, Pin WP009, and Clip CW22.
Counter balancer was modified with 3 tungsten plugs added for more weight.
All new bearings, seals, and O-rings were placed into each case half by local KTM shop using original manufacturer's sourced parts.
Looking at this photo, wider pegs will be considered as my typical rides are 200-300 miles/day, so increased comfort could be gained. Suggestions welcome.

General tips:
1. I would suggest that unless you are a really a good mechanic, plus have a wide variety of tools, use your local talent with machine shops and specialists. For example, even though I bought a Motion Pro blind bearing puller set (slide hammer with 8 collets), none really would allow extracting bearings myself. Specialty pullers from KTM are generally better as well as the oven heating techniques that others have posted. It is a trade off between paying for labor with tools or purchasing tools then using your labor. My cost saving was with considerable disassembly of components and now with the reassembly process.

2. Take lots of photos with disassembly and reassembly. These can be shared and during discussions at the office, shop, or anywhere. Good tips from others passes on the knowledge pool. Do filter the information and engage your own mind with rational thinking too.

3. Get manuals in paper, CD, or other forms. We pay thousands for the MC, so why not spend fifty for reference materials. No sense (cents) to be cheap and clueless.

4. When dismantling label zip-lock baggies, seal, and I just now discovered it would be better to have separate plastic tubs, 1 for left side parts, 1 for central parts, and 1 for the right side parts. Start organized, so you will finish and find that part(s) more readily.

5. Tap lightly with hammers. Clean threads and bolts. Use lockite appropriately, remember you may have to remove that item in the field. Use a quality torque wrench. Note: Not all torque wrenches will 'click' when used in the CCW direction, even though the direction can be reversed.

6. Quality counts for a lot (materials and technique) especially when you are out on highways, back roads, and traveling at speed.

Wish me luck.
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2003 BMW R1150 RTP, 2001 KTM LC4 640, 1991 ATK 605, 1968 BSA B50SS
Ride with Wings of Passion

NevBlu screwed with this post 03-25-2015 at 05:58 AM
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Old 02-16-2015, 02:40 PM   #3
laramie LC4
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good luck man. been there, done that, and doing it again.

laters,

laramie
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Old 02-16-2015, 02:41 PM   #4
NevBlu OP
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Timing chain gear, timing chain, and guides - Oil Pumps

First, put the timing chain into the case tunnel. Next, place by pushing the woodruff key in by fingers, gently with curved edge into the crank shaft notch. The drift pointer is used just to lightly tap into place (optional) and make flat outer edge ready for gear. Using finger pushing only, place the 17 tooth gear onto the shaft. If you prefer, a light assembly lube can be brushed on before.
The manual describes this step as placing the high collar towards the housing; I take this to mean towards the crank, any verification guys?
Next install the three plastic guides: curved to the right side using 8 mm flat bolt, straight pieces to the left side using 6 mm Allen cap bolt, and short, curved safety piece at bottom using 6 mm Allen cap bolt. Use blue, Locktite 243 or equal on all bolts.
Curved timing chain guide: 530.36.002.000
Straight timing chain guide: 530.36.001.000
Safety device: 538.36.018.000
KTM manual covers these easy steps in chapter 6-7D. See the guides in my next photos for the Oil Pumps installation up next. Note the oil pump checking and maintenance has been covered well by others, so I may not cover this too much.
Mine were checked and measured 0.003" to 0.004" at the tip of the lobe.

Oil pumps 1 and 2
Oil pump 2 is placed on upper case, while pump 1 is placed on lower portion of case. Use Locktite on all 6 x 20 mm bolts. The only longer bolt (6 x 25 mm) is placed in bottom hole of oil pump 1. Use 8 mm socket for bolt head.

It feels good to be making some progress. Taking pictures and writing along side the rebuild makes for slower results.

The retaining bracket covering the main shaft (to clutch basket) is installed using 4 mm Allen tip for 6 mm flat head, beveled bolts; Locktite always.

Time for lunch.
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2003 BMW R1150 RTP, 2001 KTM LC4 640, 1991 ATK 605, 1968 BSA B50SS
Ride with Wings of Passion

NevBlu screwed with this post 02-16-2015 at 03:56 PM
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Old 02-16-2015, 03:35 PM   #5
wrk2surf
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Location: THE exact center of California/Bass lake/Yosemite
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It will be infinitely easier on you to host your photos on a site and then link them here but remember that others may want to see these in a few years so pick a site that you can have for a while. There is a thread on this here.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=943502

and here for videos if you have them

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385793

I can nuke this when you get it.
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Thanks for the 2015 support: BELL HELMETS, SCOTT USA, Kriega USA, SEATCONCEPTS.COM , Galfer USA, Carbon-pro.com, GPR stabilzers, Sidi/Motonation, Masters paint and body, Magura , Motolab , Loctite and Dunlop tires .
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Old 02-16-2015, 05:00 PM   #6
NevBlu OP
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Oddometer: 154
Oil pump gears and Kick Start Gear and Counter Balancer

Plastic Oil Pump gears
KTM manual is vague, so sequence is: washer, pin, plastic gear (pin notch downward), washer, clip. Washers are 8.1x15x0.5mm.
For my 2001 KTM LC4 640E, the top gear is 61 mm O.D. and bottom gear is 68 mm O.D.
Top gear: PN 584.38.001.000
Top gear: PN 580.38.001.100
Note that the shaft will need to be pulled slightly upward to expose the groove for the e-clip.

Intermediate Kick Start Gear
The raised collar on this gear (about 79 mm O.D.) goes downwards (clearance) to housing while spinning of coarse.

Counter Balancer - Modified
Backside view of weight cut out (lightened) and remaining heavy (c-shape). C-shape corresponds to heavier segment on the reverse side. A machine shop performed this for me.
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Old 02-16-2015, 05:06 PM   #7
NevBlu OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrk2surf View Post
It will be infinitely easier on you to host your photos on a site and then link them here but remember that others may want to see these in a few years so pick a site that you can have for a while. There is a thread on this here.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=943502

and here for videos if you have them

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385793

I can nuke this when you get it.
I appreciate your referral, I will look into a photo hosting account. Right now I do not have one, so just getting photos here directly. I imagine after I edit and place photo link, then I can delete these photos. Does this sound like a workable plan?

P.S. wrk2surf, I have enjoyed your postings. You've been there done that on MC.
Thanks guys.
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Old 02-16-2015, 06:10 PM   #8
gunnerbuck
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I'll follow along, so far so good..
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Old 02-16-2015, 09:20 PM   #9
NevBlu OP
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Left side crank nut and clutch basket assembly

Left side Crank Nut
The KTM manual states to tighten to 170 N m (125 ft lb) right hand threads. Of course, place the lock washer and Locktite the threads first.

Photos shows parts previously assembled.
Edit: note that the arrows emphasis for aligning the punch marks to match from one gear to the other. Pushing the crank timing gear onto the shaft and woodruff key does take some patience. Look at what the situation offers you; make sure that the woodruff key is into the shaft completely. I used some gentle taps with a fiber hammer and a drift punch. Further, once some gentle hammer taps were given to the O.D. of the gear to getting the gear's I.D. to align with the shaft. Finally some even pressure on the gear will get it to start down the shaft. Good luck here, yours may just go right on.
I thought of jamming the gears with a rubber material, but seeking input from the 'experienced DIY" followers. With some type of special fork, the two holes in the gear could be inserted and held while torque applied, but no special tool in my garage.

Edit: I may continue with the clutch basket assembly, then with my clutch holding tool and putting the transmission into a gear, go back and tighten the crank nut.

Further, I need to get a larger torque wrench that allows more than my current one that only has a maximum of 80 ft. lbs.


So now for some guidance or tips from those experience hands.
What is is good method at this point of reassembly to hold the crank shaft (keep it from rotating) while tightening the left side crank nut?
Clutch Basket
Edit: Wear limit: fiber plates, 2.50 mm, spring length 34.5 mm minimum
Measuring parts before placing, then this will be a simple reinstall.
Edit: Yes, most plates were at or near wear limit (only 3 were at 2.7 mm), so ordered 8 friction plates, 583 32 011 200.
The double caged, needle bearings appear to be in excellent shape with no radial movement felt. This bearing and outer clutch plate caged ball bearings are two of the few original bearings that I am not replacing.

Fiber and metal plates were kept in original relationship (zip tied into a group) when removed last summer. Very fine corrugations are felt on the inside contact area where plates secured to basket. Others have suggested a light brushing with a metal file, so after doing this, I will continuing the reassembly.

Ok, calling it a day. Cheers.
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Ride with Wings of Passion

NevBlu screwed with this post 02-19-2015 at 05:31 PM
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Old 02-20-2015, 02:17 PM   #10
NevBlu OP
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Oddometer: 154
Right case side

Right engine case, reassembly

Flipped the engine over while awaiting new clutch plates. Tapped in the flat piece over the crank shaft; it appears to be just a separator / spacer that acts as a baffle with oil partioned into the bottom end.

Placed the reduction gear pin (with hole in center showing outward), two roller needle cages slide into place using a bit of assembly lube. I am using a Lucas assembly lube. First slide the caged, roller bearings over the crank, then the freewheel gear (about 120 mm O.D.) with the radial grooves facing outward. Second the reduction gear (about 57 mm O.D.) slides into place with the smaller gear to interior side.

New KN-155 oil filter installed and cap to the filter got a new O-ring; it is a slightly distorted circle and very fine diameter. In the photo, you can see notes to myself (parts ordered).

These are some of the easiest assembly steps so far. Well lunch is over, more later.
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Ride with Wings of Passion

NevBlu screwed with this post 02-20-2015 at 06:22 PM
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Old 02-20-2015, 06:42 PM   #11
bmwktmbill
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Great pictures and information.
Thanks, bill
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
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Old 02-20-2015, 07:12 PM   #12
NevBlu OP
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Free wheel gear and reduction gear

Free wheel gear and reduction gear

Slide on these gears. Tap in the wood ruff key on the crank shaft (tapered side) that will mate up with the fly wheel. My flywheel was stamped GP9128 by Kokusan in Japan. Inspected the mounting allen cap bolts (used no. 5 allen tip) between flywheel and ignition magnet. All tight and good.
Just for side interest the flywheel weighs 4 lb. 3.5 oz. with 120 mm O.D.
Light smear of assembly lube then the flywheel pushed into place. My descriptions follow the manual, just with digital photos added. Hope this will help others at a later date.
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Old 02-20-2015, 07:25 PM   #13
FongMan
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Great pics and keep it going!!

The rod is disheartening also....
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Old 02-20-2015, 07:41 PM   #14
Boon Booni
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Location: Richmond, Va
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I'm seeing a ball bearing on the main shaft. That's a known weak point and should be upgraded to a roller bearing.
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Old 02-20-2015, 07:54 PM   #15
overlandr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrk2surf View Post
It will be infinitely easier on you to host your photos on a site and then link them here but remember that others may want to see these in a few years so pick a site that you can have for a while.
+1. Baldy sometimes does a deletion of attached photos to free server space and bingo! - threads like these then become of little use as the photos disappear. For that reason and others, some choose to save important complete threads on their PC so that they have access to a copy if the whole thread becomes inaccessible.
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