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Old 04-25-2011, 06:02 PM   #1
The Full Monty OP
The Full Monty's Avatar
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Clear Lake Shores, TX
Oddometer: 97
Clutch/Side Stand Safety 2009 KLR

I could not find here or anywhere else how to disable the clutch and side stand safety interlock for the new model KLR 650. I figured it out with a little help from the KLR FAQ and thought I would post it here. YMMV WARNING: With this mod, you can start the bike in gear without the clutch in! Also, left hand turns will be a real bitch if you leave your side stand down. Use at your own risk

Okay, so there is a safety feature on new bikes that will not allow the engine to start if it is not in neutral nor will the bike run if the side stand is down and the bike is in gear. Sounds like good features unless you are sitting in the middle of an intersection with a stalled bike and you can't find neutral (yes it has happened). The kick stand switches are easily damaged off road also. I feel like I am pretty methodical in my starting sequence so I decided to disable both features.

But how to do it? Looking at the wiring diagram and with lots of internet searching it looked like the best bet would be to bypass the Interlock diode unit. This unit controls the kick stand switch, the neutral start only switch and the neutral light. By bypassing the switches and the diode I would be eliminating as much of the system as possible thereby eliminating future trouble.

Note: The following procedure worked on a 2009 KLR650. I THINK it would work on the 2008 also, because those are the years that my Clymer manual covers. It MIGHT work on later models but I don't think it will work on earlier interlock diode.
Here is a photo of the interlock diode which is located behind the dash.

You will need to do the following to bypass the interlock and the switches. Cut all six (6) wires from the interlock diode plug (I left enough slack so I could put it back in the future if needed). Tie the following wires together 4 and 3 (green/white & black/red) and 1 and 2 (blue/red & black/red) and ground them. The wires 6 and 5 (green & blue/red) should be cut and left open (insulate them well) they are for the Neutral Switch and you want it to continue to work. That's it!

Although very simple, I would get a wiring diagram for the 2008/2009 bike so you can identify the wires by number and color.

The above photo shows how I tested the work around. I strongly recommend you do this! The two red wires went to the ground on the battery.

There you have it boys and girls! I soldered all of the wires together and used heat shrink wrap to insulate. Then wrapped it all in electrical tape. I drilled a hole though the old bracket for the diode and grounded the wires to that. You can see the blue terminal that is in the above photo.
It is a lot easier to die, then it is to use your head. R.A. Heinlein

KLR650 '09
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:59 PM   #2
hunt4adv's Avatar
Joined: Mar 2010
Location: South Hoosier Land
Oddometer: 1
Monty, you da man!

I decided to get crazy and move some components around and completely redo the whole wiring harness.....I've actually routed it internally in the main frame, cleaned up the mess and rub question tho..why is it necessary to ground wires 1 & 2? thanks again!
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Old 12-21-2013, 06:37 PM   #3
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: SW Missouri
Oddometer: 81

I did these mods when I first got my '08 in 2007. Everything went well until a couple months ago when I tried to start my bike in gear and it lunged forward and rear ended my vintage corvette.

Don't regret the mod but I've learned to not wheel my bike into the garage with it still in gear.
'06 Vino
'77 CT90
'08 Sportster
'09 Concours 14
'72 Shovelhead FLH
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