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Old 02-06-2012, 01:03 PM   #31
RedRocker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaddedHat View Post
Big difference between an opinion and a decade of heavy use that provides a deep base of knowledge.
Well, I have about three decades of heavy use for my "deep" base of knowledge and that's my opinion, your results may vary. Feel free to
pull what ever you want with what ever you want, I don't care. OP asked for opinions, I gave mine, you don't have to agree, it's OK.

I do have a friend towing with a new eco boost, nice truck, tows well, but gets about 11mpg towing his Jeep.
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RedRocker screwed with this post 02-06-2012 at 01:09 PM
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:24 PM   #32
showkey
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Light weight aluminum trailers all shapes and sizes

http://www.livinlite.com/


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Old 02-06-2012, 08:45 PM   #33
Oshiat
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+1 on RV.net

First order of business is that salesmen at RV lots will lie thru their teeth when it comes to what your rig is capable of towing.

I have a 23' Eclipse Attitude toy hauler, fully loaded to capacity is 10,500lbs. These things get heavy fast. I would absolutely recommend staying away from the lightweight rigs. They are simply not structurally sound.

Finally consider storage, we bought our trailer mainly because it fit the yard. Trailer storage fees run around $90 a month here.

Welcome to the wonderful world of RVing!
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Old 02-06-2012, 09:50 PM   #34
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Yeah lightweight sucks make sure you get something that exceeds your vehicle's capacity.
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Old 02-07-2012, 03:45 AM   #35
PaddedHat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRocker View Post
Well, I have about three decades of heavy use for my "deep" base of knowledge and that's my opinion, your results may vary. Feel free to
pull what ever you want with what ever you want, I don't care. OP asked for opinions, I gave mine, you don't have to agree, it's OK.

I do have a friend towing with a new eco boost, nice truck, tows well, but gets about 11mpg towing his Jeep.
Been a member of rv.net for a decade now, and I guess I have to appologize for wasting your time. By now I really should know better. Actually, that site is full of dozens of your brethren. A serious poster asks a question about properly matching a reasonable truck with a trailer he is interested in. This is followed by pages of useful information and real world experience. Unfortunately, it is also tained by trash like, " I wouldn't use that half ton to pull anything bigger than a pop-up, you need a diesel, or you're gonna' kill your whole family". Absolute bullshit, but it will never end. So next time you pull a bike on a single rail trailer, for God's sake, please use a one ton diesel, chipped with all the emissions torn off, with a jake brake and be sure to have the 8" Chrome penis stack in the middle of the bed, belching black smoke. That 'ill get er' done Safety first.
Bottom line doesn't change however. The OP lists a truck that has been used by hundreds of thousands of owners in the last fourteen years to pull rigs in the 6-7K range. The reviews, and my personal experience of well over 100K tow miles with this combo, indicate that it is both safe and extremely reliable. You however, without a clue, decide jump in with your "opinion' that for safety it is best to limit this truck to a 2200lb micro trailer. Then waste time on subsequent posts explaining that your drivel is valid because it is your opinion? Sorry, as Yota once said, " A clue, you have not"

Back to the OP and serious questions. The camplite is interesting, but I was suprised to see how they are built. Real stark interiors, sharp cabinets edges to gash your head on, and overall pretty crude. IMHO, the work and play haulers have a lot more to offer for the $. When you do narrow your search, be sure to get a few quotes from the wholesale sites, rvwholesalers, rvdirect, etc... these guys are frequently thousands below local dealers, and give you a bargaining tool if you want to buy locally. I would also think about ordering your hitch set-up and brake controller on-line, and doing the install yourself. Personally, I would want a Reese Dual Cam weight distribution and a Prodigy controller as a minimum. Frequently, dealers like to bundle a hitch and controller package into the deal. This usually doesn't end well. There is a lot of cheap Chinese shit out there, and the dealer makes a ton of money using it. Friction sway controllers and $59 inertia brake controllers are both shit that can get you in trouble in hairy conditions. They are also likely to be part of the $500 package that the dealer wants to install. The other benefit of doing the work yourself is that it gets done properly. You wouldn't believe how often the dealer will drop a box of parts in front of a $10/hr kid and tell him to go do the install on your new rig. Several times I have totally removed everything from friends or neighbors rigs and started again. This included everything from poorly adjusted spring bars to hitch receiver that was falling off of the tow vehicle!!! The brake controller is plug and play in your truck, you just need a $12 cord specific to your truck. the sway control/ weight distribution is pretty simple to install correctly. Once you do the install, and properly set the ride height on both vehicles, you will have learned a lot and have a few new tools as a bonus. Good luck on your new adventure.
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Old 02-07-2012, 04:17 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommu56 View Post
Weight distributing hitch trailer end ~$750 to 1000

Truck end depends on vehicle from $200 to 500 + install

I have Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake Controller - Proportional ~$130 and love them (in 2 vehicles)

Wiring on tow vehicle if not wired ~$150 and install brake controller

tom
Hopefully the OP has a receiver and 7 way outlet included in the GM tow package. If so, a complete Reese hitch set-up with Dual-Cam sway control runs $444 plus shipping. A P2 can be had for $99 and the GM plug n' Play adapter is $11. The OP should be ready to roll with < $600 removed from the wallet and a few hours in the driveway. A few years ago I picked up a new rig in Buffalo, about 6 hours away. I installed a Dual Cam, in a hour or two, while laying in a snowy parking lot. It sucked, but it also saved $800 and I used the one I already had.
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Old 02-07-2012, 04:30 AM   #37
RedRocker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaddedHat View Post
Been a member of rv.net for a decade now, and I guess I have to appologize for wasting your time. By now I really should know better. Actually, that site is full of dozens of your brethren. A serious poster asks a question about properly matching a reasonable truck with a trailer he is interested in. This is followed by pages of useful information and real world experience. Unfortunately, it is also tained by trash like, " I wouldn't use that half ton to pull anything bigger than a pop-up, you need a diesel, or you're gonna' kill your whole family". Absolute bullshit, but it will never end. So next time you pull a bike on a single rail trailer, for God's sake, please use a one ton diesel, chipped with all the emissions torn off, with a jake brake and be sure to have the 8" Chrome penis stack in the middle of the bed, belching black smoke. That 'ill get er' done Safety first.
Bottom line doesn't change however. The OP lists a truck that has been used by hundreds of thousands of owners in the last fourteen years to pull rigs in the 6-7K range. The reviews, and my personal experience of well over 100K tow miles with this combo, indicate that it is both safe and extremely reliable. You however, without a clue, decide jump in with your "opinion' that for safety it is best to limit this truck to a 2200lb micro trailer. Then waste time on subsequent posts explaining that your drivel is valid because it is your opinion? Sorry, as Yota once said, " A clue, you have not"
I never said diesel, never said one ton, for trailers of the size the OP was talking about I'd prefer a 3/4 ton, with today's fuel prices I'd probably prefer a gas engine. 3/4 ton trucks have beefier axles and brakes, those are my preferences. Now, slide on over to RV.net where I'm sure you're a hero and they appreciate your "wisdom", cause I think you're an arrogant prick with low reading comprehension skills.
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Old 02-07-2012, 06:42 AM   #38
showkey
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Originally Posted by PaddedHat View Post
The camplite is interesting, but I was suprised to see how they are built. Real stark interiors, sharp cabinets edges to gash your head on, and overall pretty crude. IMHO, the work and play haulers have a lot more to offer for the $.

^^^^^^^^ Me too, toured the factory last week............no particle board, no old pallet grade lumber, no wood frames, no cheap paneling all those cheap poor grade materials are the RV industry standard.......

The plumbing and electrical work on the under side is a work of art. The insides are a little industrial style but the new ones are much better. The windows were second to none.

A friend is considering Camplite........ I was impressed........I have a Sprinter RV class C pulling a trailer diesel ..........
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Old 02-07-2012, 07:04 AM   #39
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My wife was doing road shows at Costcos across the west and we got tired of hotels. So we bought a 30' travel trailer. It was quite a learning experience. We went with a cheap generic with slide. It was not winter rated so I wrapped all the waste pipe and water feed with heat tape, and made sure the water lines ran adjacent to the forced air duct. We went with an aluminum frame and siding to keep the loaded weight to around 8k. The water lines only froze once, camped on the Yellow Stone in Billings when it got down to -12 with the wind blowing.

The thought of pulling something that weighed more than the pull vehicle did not appeal to me so we bought an 8k pull rig. We needed something to keep mom's jewelry and kit locked up in, and wanted the hitch as close to the axle as possible. Or pull rig worked great, never sways, has a built-in compressor that load levels, won't get pushed by the trailer when geared down on the down hills, had a trailer switch that changes the throttle response and shift to rpm ratio, 4wheel drive for the forest service roads and tight turning radius.. but. We did have one annoying problem.

As soon as we drove off the lot, in Seattle, we noticed people flipping us off. Its been keyed twice. I've learned to check for the screws and nails that oddly appear propped under the tiers in parking lots. Yep.The only problem we had with the RV life was from buying a rig that was not PC enough for the brain dead, green zealots populating our country.

































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Old 02-07-2012, 10:08 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by PapaYolk View Post
My wife was doing road shows at Costcos across the west and we got tired of hotels. So we bought a 30' travel trailer. It was quite a learning experience. We went with a cheap generic with slide. It was not winter rated so I wrapped all the waste pipe and water feed with heat tape, and made sure the water lines ran adjacent to the forced air duct. We went with an aluminum frame and siding to keep the loaded weight to around 8k. The water lines only froze once, camped on the Yellow Stone in Billings when it got down to -12 with the wind blowing.

The thought of pulling something that weighed more than the pull vehicle did not appeal to me so we bought an 8k pull rig. We needed something to keep mom's jewelry and kit locked up in, and wanted the hitch as close to the axle as possible. Or pull rig worked great, never sways, has a built-in compressor that load levels, won't get pushed by the trailer when geared down on the down hills, had a trailer switch that changes the throttle response and shift to rpm ratio, 4wheel drive for the forest service roads and tight turning radius.. but. We did have one annoying problem.

As soon as we drove off the lot, in Seattle, we noticed people flipping us off. Its been keyed twice. I've learned to check for the screws and nails that oddly appear propped under the tiers in parking lots. Yep.The only problem we had with the RV life was from buying a rig that was not PC enough for the brain dead, green zealots populating our country.
Just a question, did they key the TT or the Hummer?
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Old 02-07-2012, 10:42 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Bubwheat View Post
Just a question, did they key the TT or the Hummer?
+1

That Sunset Creek is a nice trailer. The Hummer is what's bringing the negative attention. Not that it should

For the OP, check Rvwholesalers and RVdirect for models and prices. Each have a few dealers across the US with several hundred units on their premises. They'll be thousands less than your average dealer. You'll have a couple dozen to choose from in your towing capacity.

Too bad most of the posts in this thread are of no help. This could be a good thread otherwise.

Good luck
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Old 02-07-2012, 11:23 AM   #42
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The Hummer.
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Old 02-07-2012, 12:58 PM   #43
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You can go bigger than that, and stay close to 5k lbs. I just bought this:

28ft, slider, 5400 dry. Offers quite a bit that you don't get at 23ft, and is still WAY under what you want to tow.

http://www.cruiserrv.com/shadow-crui...s/gallery.html


Trailers have gotten quite a bit lighter over the last 10 years or so, relative to size.
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Old 02-07-2012, 02:27 PM   #44
tony the tiger
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Yabbut - one of the things to consider is 'primitive' campsites with tight turn radii... radiuses... corners. Another post addressed limited storage site size too - good points to ponder.

Then again - the bigger the trailer, th' more 'personal space' you have if full-timing.
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Old 02-07-2012, 02:28 PM   #45
tony the tiger
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Originally Posted by Tudelum48 View Post
Well im looking at retiring soon and think I have a need for a Travel Trailer. Tow vehicle will be a 2009 Chevy 1/2 ton extended 4x4. Looks like tow specs for a 373 gear put me in the sub 7500 lb range. I dont even want to get close to that so Im looking at 23-24 foot max on length and would like to have a slide and stay below 5000 lbs.
I went to a dealer yesterday and to say the least im more confused than ever. There are so many models,makes and styles my poor mind went into overload.
Heres how I plan to use it:
1. Probably just the wife and I mostly with the occasional grand kids.
2. Will do some hook up camping at the normal lake camp sites that have electric and water.
3. Primitive camping in the LBL in KY. I'll be using a generator for charging camper and boat.
4. Might get brave enough to drag it to Florida to check into the snowbird environment to see if we like it.
5. Probably be a handme down unit to the kids.
6. Got to keep it short for primitive sites.
7. Dont want one with cloth extensions.

Normally when I buy something I keep it a long time, so im looking for one that has a chance to last several years.

With the chance of this turning into a Tire Thread argument. What are the brands I need to check out? I have already looked at the Coachman lines and would really like the looks of the Forest River. I have never owned a Travel Trailer so i'm in uncharted water. Any direction would be appreciated.
.
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