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Old 09-22-2012, 11:35 AM   #61
Airhead Wrangler
Adios Mexico
 
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Back in Seattle, FINALLY
Oddometer: 6,338
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prutser View Post
Thank you AW.
I hope it will last. I have seen the one in you're tread. Same as in my ST. Extended in a different way though.
Done about 14000 km(off road) now and still no damage.
I'm not sure if the stress is the worst on pavement. It might be a lot with acceleration and bad roads. But I think the stress on the cush damper is pretty bad driving over rocks, corrugations, potholes and other obstacles.
Hitting something solid with a spinning wheel ALL THE TIME !!!
It might even damp some of the jacking of the monolever ! (my impression is it does)

I'm building another with a damper in the drive shaft. Maybe I need to wait till that one is finished and compare them.
The other thing I forgot to consider is that the cush damper in the trans is on the input side of the gears. It's more likely to get wrecked by dropping the clutch too hard or other sudden excessive torque on the input side applied by the engine. Torque applied to it by the rear wheel is reduced considerable by the final drive as well as the gears in the trans. Also, due to the torque reduction by the trans, the shock to the cush damper is smallest in lower gears which you'd be using in rougher terrain. It would be at it's maximum in top gear which you're not likely to use when the going is rough.
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Airhead Wrangler screwed with this post 09-22-2012 at 11:45 AM
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:11 AM   #62
Rucksta
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Gold Coast
Oddometer: 2,583
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prutser View Post
Personally I prefer the torsion damper. And I'm not to worried about the clip.
That clip would be a feasible road side repair.
I made a driveshaft assembly tool today (the one that compresses the cush drive so the snap ring can come on/off)
It would break down into components that could be carried on a bike.
I would not have thought of carrying it as a tool.
Nor would I have considered snap ring replacement a side of road task.

I expect the bike would keep running if the snap ring failed.
The cush drive would loose its preload, be really mushy and with extended use the bell could damage the final drive seal
Limp home mode to the nearest drill press and replacement snap ring would see you right.

The snap ring does get flattened over time and use.
The one I pulled out today had 100K on it and was servicable but was replaced.
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Old 09-23-2012, 06:08 AM   #63
Prutser
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: The Dutch swamp
Oddometer: 910
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rucksta View Post
I made a driveshaft assembly tool today (the one that compresses the cush drive so the snap ring can come on/off)
It would break down into components that could be carried on a bike.
I would not have thought of carrying it as a tool.
Nor would I have considered snap ring replacement a side of road task.

I expect the bike would keep running if the snap ring failed.
The cush drive would loose its preload, be really mushy and with extended use the bell could damage the final drive seal
Limp home mode to the nearest drill press and replacement snap ring would see you right.

The snap ring does get flattened over time and use.
The one I pulled out today had 100K on it and was servicable but was replaced.
On my road bikes I have never had a broken snap ring. Even with a lot of km's. Did replace a lot of worn ones.
But never had one fail. But when I asked some specialists in NL why they did not use the damper the clip was there main consern ! And that advice came from the Germans they said.....(hpn)

Driving home with a broken clip would have meant doing 5000 km through Mongolia and Russia. Than to fix the clip would be a better option. On my side car I do bring a tool I have to compress the damper and fix it.
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