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Old 05-23-2012, 05:46 PM   #76
Emmbeedee
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This'll be old news to some, but I thought I'd post it anyway.

After a friend from Newfoundland rode my DR last weekend I started to think about what maintenance I had done on the bike since I've owned it and aside from oil changes and carb work, I realized I'd done virtually nothing on the bike!

When I bought it it had 24,000 kms and now it has 35,467, so the valves were ready for checking. They're called for at 12,000 km intervals, which was nice to see.

As some of you already know the valves on the DR are screw adjusted (insert cheer from Stephanie here).

There's not a whole lot involved with doing the valves but here's what I did:
  • Removed side covers, seat and tank.
  • Wash bike to remove years of mud.
  • Blow dry the engine with compressed air to get water and dust off.

Now the actual valve adjusting begins:
  • Removed one spark plug, remembering to blow compressed air down in the plug cavity so any dust stays out of the plug hole.
  • Removed crank nut cover and timing plug.
  • Rotate engine counter clockwise to compression stroke and line up the T in the hole.




  • Take off valve covers.
  • Set valves to indicated values. (See below)



I made up a little tool to rotate the square valve adjuster tips. I had found a suggestion somewhere to use a Robertson screw head to hold the adjuster, and a Inniskillin wine bottle cork seemed just the thing to hold the adjuster with.

Here's the tool in place.





These are the tools you need - a feeler gauge bent to shape so it goes in easily (there's not a lot of room in there)



So all in all, it's an easy job!

This friend's put a lot of miles on a KLR and was shocked at how much better the DR was. He said he's going to go home to "punch the KLR in the teeth".
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.

Emmbeedee screwed with this post 05-23-2012 at 08:00 PM
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:56 PM   #77
thumpididump
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That's an ingenious tool... it's been a good 10,000 Km or more since I last checked my valves, and I will definitely make one of these when I get around to checking them. Thanks.
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:06 PM   #78
Booyashaka
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is that a #2 Robertson?
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:13 PM   #79
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyashaka View Post
is that a #2 Robertson?
Don't get technical.

It's the red driver size.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:52 PM   #80
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
That's an ingenious tool... it's been a good 10,000 Km or more since I last checked my valves, and I will definitely make one of these when I get around to checking them. Thanks.
The cork works really well. As you turn the adjuster you get a real feel for how tight the screw needs to be.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:19 PM   #81
damurph
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Dr

EmmbeeDee failed to inform you that i was the friend who rode his DR650 last week while picking up my fly and ride K75s. My many thanks to EmmBeeDee and Dresda for an amazing time and incredible hospitality. He also failed to inform you what i said while riding his machine. At one point i leaned over and told him " When i get home i am gonna punch my KLR right in the mouth"
I thought you DR owners would enjoy that as much as i enjoyed the bike.
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:54 PM   #82
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damurph View Post
At one point i leaned over and told him " When i get home i am gonna punch my KLR right in the mouth"
Hey Dave - we can't get better praise for the DR than from someone who's put so many miles on a KLR...

And this was buried at the bottom of my post: "This friend's put a lot of miles on a KLR and was shocked at how much better the DR was. He said he's going to go home to "punch the KLR in the teeth"."

So, you scouring Kijiji for a DR now? Planning your next "Fly and Ride"?

You're more than welcome here.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 05-29-2012, 07:05 PM   #83
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You'd certainly need a better seat before riding a DR home though, it would be way more uncomfortable than the lowered K seat!
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Old 05-30-2012, 04:52 AM   #84
koh kood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chilibizkit View Post
I figured that about the gasket - $14.95 from Procycle - size & # of crush washers? If there was more than just me interested, we could probably bulk order.

Hey, def interested in some NSU screws but going to hold off till next winter to tackle (hope I didn't just freakin jinx myself). But if I could pick some up that would be great.

I have bought from procycle in past and prob will again but suggest you price out some parts at the local dealer just for comparison if you're looking at stock parts.

Delivery/duty sucks.[/QUOTE]

You can pick up some good quality socket head cap screws at http://www.ottawafastenersupply.com/
I bought mine there when I changed them out. With the cap screws there's no need to take the clutch apart either.
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:11 AM   #85
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koh kood View Post
Hey, def interested in some NSU screws but going to hold off till next winter to tackle (hope I didn't just freakin jinx myself). But if I could pick some up that would be great.

With the cap screws there's no need to take the clutch apart either.
I did mine without removing the clutch, but it was surprisingly hard. There is less clearance there than I expected, and must have spent 45 minutes trying to deal with the upper screw. If the original had been tight, I wouldn't have gotten it out, as it is i buggered up the not-quite-Phillips head before I got it out. I used a one-size-smaller, ball-end Allen key to get the new locktited, hex-socket, button head screw started, then tightened it finally with the right size.

Cutting a cheap Allen key is what I would recommend if not removing the clutch. A cheap Allen key should be easier to cut, and would make the job much easier.

This (after) photo makes it appear more accessible than it is:



This idea (not mine) allowed me to keep track of the cover bolts which are of varying lengths:

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Old 05-30-2012, 10:58 PM   #86
koh kood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
I did mine without removing the clutch, but it was surprisingly hard. There is less clearance there than I expected, and must have spent 45 minutes trying to deal with the upper screw. If the original had been tight, I wouldn't have gotten it out, as it is i buggered up the not-quite-Phillips head before I got it out. I used a one-size-smaller, ball-end Allen key to get the new locktited, hex-socket, button head screw started, then tightened it finally with the right size.

Cutting a cheap Allen key is what I would recommend if not removing the clutch. A cheap Allen key should be easier to cut, and would make the job much easier.

This (after) photo makes it appear more accessible than it is:



This idea (not mine) allowed me to keep track of the cover bolts which are of varying lengths:

That top Philips screw is a bit awkward to get at. I gave the outside edge a few light taps with small chisel to break the seal and unscrewed it by hand.
First time I set the valves the magneto plug was seized. Had to use a bigger chisel and hammer on that. i put a bit of anti-seize on the new replacement.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:02 AM   #87
Booyashaka
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Looking for a new battery

see original post...
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=65436
any recommendations, for a locally sourced battery?
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:45 AM   #88
thumpididump
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TDY had a lightly used one available not long ago.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:22 PM   #89
Booyashaka
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Thanks

For all the battery tips, guys. Turns out I don't have a problem after all. Funny story...
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=65465
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Old 06-01-2012, 07:47 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyashaka View Post
Thanks, I didn't mean to come off as cheap, I'm not looking for a used battery. Quite the opposite, actually. I was looking for recommendations for a "best bang for the buck" battery. Also, preferably one that I won't need to order and wait a week or two for (sourced locally). Shorai? what model/size/part number?
I posted this in the other DR650 thread yesterday by mistake. Glad to hear you have solved your battery problem. I'm reposting my message here anyway.
See post #30 of this thread for info on the Shorai battery in Ottawa. The only thing I have found out about these batteries that may be an issue for some people is that they have high internal resistance when cold. However, they heat up fast from the first few start attempts and then they work fine.

If you are interested, I'll sell you my 2 year old Yuasa for 1/2 (including taxes) of what it would have cost you to buy the exact same battery new locally. I'd then take go get a Shorai for myself. (I could not actually give you the Yuasa untill my Shorai is delivered).
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