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Old 03-26-2012, 09:46 PM   #61
crashmaster
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Girdweed, AK
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990 Fuel filters:

If you regularly fill up with milk jug or barrel gas from a roadside gasolinera, you probably get a lot of crap in your tanks. The 990 fuel filter, particularly the "tea bag" type first stage filter will clog up quite easily.

If you bike starts sputtering and will not rev much past 3K rpm or so, you most likely have a clogged filter. I carry a filter kit and extra pump o-ring in the glove box just in case. After about 30,000 of running pump gas, you could experience filter clogging as well.

990 throttle cables:

Do yourself a favor and do not touch the cable adjustments after changing to an aftermarket throttle tube, a G2 cam, or just trying to tighten up the slack. You must hook up to Tune ECU or a diagnostic computer to do this properly. This is the only correct and accurate way to adjust the cables. Just blindly futzing with the cable adjustments could cause problems with the stepper motor controlled secondary butterflies in the throttle bodies, which could cause a stalling or low idle condition when you roll off the throttle, pull in the clutch to shift, or pull in the clutch coming to a stop.



This thread should be stickied! Misery Goat, where are you?
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crashmaster screwed with this post 04-26-2012 at 05:09 PM
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:33 AM   #62
gefr
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Fuel tank capacity.

The 990Adv fuel tanks' capacity is 19liters and not 21 as in the manual. I never filled with more than 19, after being stranded.
Cheers.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:53 AM   #63
BartG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gefr View Post
The 990Adv fuel tanks' capacity is 19liters and not 21 as in the manual. I never filled with more than 19, after being stranded.
Cheers.
This is partly true, the tanks are mounted in such a way that you cannot actually fill them up all the way (cause of the upward angle above the fuel cap) so the 21 might be true, but you will never put it in...

Also, fuel light differs on the bikes, some get 20KM others get 50KM, mine is close to 50KM and even switches off if you ride in a straight line for a bit leveling out the fuel in the right and left tank.
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:15 PM   #64
ultrachrome
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adiablolex View Post
it would be milky looking
So using a scotts filter would be fine in this case?
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:08 PM   #65
Geek OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrachrome View Post
So using a scotts filter would be fine in this case?
I would be careful with the phrase "would be fine".

A scotts filter won't collapse so it can get you back to civilization.. but you do not want to run the motorcycle with water/coolant in the oil any longer than you absolutely have to. You've potential for increased wear/failure due to diluted lubrication, rust in the main bearings, etc... basically you can toast the motor if you leave it too long.

In a pinch, if you are using a paper filter and have a waterpump seal failure occur, you can run with no filter at all to get back to civilization (this is better than a collapsed filter starving the engine for oil).


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Old 03-27-2012, 06:14 PM   #66
adiablolex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrachrome View Post
So using a scotts filter would be fine in this case?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
I would be careful with the phrase "would be fine".

A scotts filter won't collapse so it can get you back to civilization.. but you do not want to run the motorcycle with water/coolant in the oil any longer than you absolutely have to. You've potential for increased wear/failure due to diluted lubrication, rust in the main bearings, etc... basically you can toast the motor if you leave it too long.

In a pinch, if you are using a paper filter and have a waterpump seal failure occur, you can run with no filter at all to get back to civilization (this is better than a collapsed filter starving the engine for oil).

I'm with Geek on this one, good enough for short term, but certainly not fine for continuous use.
Fix the coolant leak problem (most likely pump seals) install CJ clear clutch cover and yar set. Why use just the small oil peep when you can have a whole bling window of oil sloshing goodness?
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:07 AM   #67
Harry G
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Save you the embarrassment

If you don't tighten your battery cables and they get loose, the bike will start back firing and eventualy it will shut down when under load(3000rpm+). It happened to me while riding with 20+ BMWs. We all thought it was vacuum line leak. I got abused for the entire trip.

What about oil light flickering at idle and then goes away when above 1500rpm?

Harry G screwed with this post 03-28-2012 at 06:20 AM
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:50 AM   #68
Pussboy
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Great thread! Good info! I drank the orange KoolAid yesterday and now my 2011 990 R is waiting for the kids to head to school this morning so she can get some attention! Thanks for the help!
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:17 AM   #69
wpbarlow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apple Jam View Post
...KTM offers a "right side mirror relocator" for $12.95. Buy it....
Do you have a P/N for this, and is there an equivalent for the left side? Thanks.

I know KTMTwins makes the mountless clamps, but can't find relocators there or at Munn Racing. Unless it's the CLAMP MIRROR WITH CL, KTM Part Number: 60002044000 that doesn't have a picture (and the p/n doesn't come up in the KTM fiche)
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:20 AM   #70
Narsisco Lopez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpbarlow View Post
Do you have a P/N for this, and is there an equivalent for the left side? Thanks.

I know KTMTwins makes the mountless clamps, but can't find relocators there or at Munn Racing. Unless it's the CLAMP MIRROR WITH CL, KTM Part Number: 60002044000 that doesn't have a picture (and the p/n doesn't come up in the KTM fiche)
Here ya go...

http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-950-990-...t-mirror-mount
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:48 AM   #71
wpbarlow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Narsisco Lopez View Post
Thanks. Don't know why it didn't show up in the search. And no left side one I guess.
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:58 AM   #72
Narsisco Lopez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpbarlow View Post
Thanks. Don't know why it didn't show up in the search. And no left side one I guess.
De nada

Use the same for left and right. Probably shouldn't have to say this, but... these are reversed threads.
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:33 AM   #73
Qwik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpbarlow View Post
Do you have a P/N for this, and is there an equivalent for the left side? Thanks.
Left one is already mounted on the clamp
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:47 PM   #74
4corners14
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This is a ton of great info!

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Old 03-29-2012, 06:25 AM   #75
BOB RAMSAY
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Location: Granville, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike.l View Post
Try as I might, i'll cannot turn the screw even having left it overnight with WD 40 soaking in. Me thinks next I should give it a whack with an impact driver. Is this a good idea?
I soaked mine for weeks. The adj. screw has an 'o' ring and hence won't allow lubricants in. Heated, hammered, torqued it - nothing. Took it to the shop - it's is a delicate part and can break easily so I let them break it for me (the adjusting set screw is not listed on microfiche parts list). I used this rebound adjuster 3-4 times each season when I road 2-up (since 2007) and never power washed the bike - it still froze up. Some people advise lubing it on a schedule, but it will need to be removed to actually be lubed. Cost me $200 (parts & labor) including the shock oil change (which never hurts).

Quick note: Whenever I have a fastener or pin disassembled, I coat it with anti-seize lubricant (which can tolerate heat) (NAPA) or, general purpose, water-proof motorcycle grease. Aluminum>aluminum surfaces will tend to 'oxidize' over time and in extreme cases, the fastener may break or cause other damage. Drive chain adjusters are a great place to start.

Happy Trails !
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