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Old 04-01-2012, 11:45 PM   #76
PowerT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike.l View Post
Try as I might, i'll cannot turn the screw even having left it overnight with WD 40 soaking in. Me thinks next I should give it a whack with an impact driver. Is this a good idea?
Has anyone tried Kroil on this? I have NEVER found anything that it would not loosen given a fair amount of time. YMMV.
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:11 AM   #77
Rixxy
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Dammit!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
Emergency Fuel Tank Access

If you open your gas caps, you will see a single screw inside. This is the "anti theft" screw.
Personally.. I've removed this screw.

That way if I'm on a long ride and I lose my key, or break a key off in the fuel cap, or get a jammed fuel cap, I can remove the fuel cap with allen keys so that I can put fuel in the tank. I'm far more worried about one of these events happening than I am about having my fuel stolen.

If you do not remove this interior screw, you will not be able to remove the fuel cap with an allen key to fill it up if one of these issues arise.
WHY didn't i see this before, now have a snapped key in the fuel tank and cannot get it open, not much change of help as I'm in Cambodia.

Any ideas appreciated!!! Lucky i can still run on 1 tank so not the end of the world.
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Old 04-02-2012, 04:21 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerT View Post
Has anyone tried Kroil on this? I have NEVER found anything that it would not loosen given a fair amount of time. YMMV.
08 SM, 21k (i know not an adv!) My rear shock adjustment screw also seized. I soaked it in penetrating oil for about 2 weeks, every or every other day, and it eventually turned. The adjustment screw is quite soft so make sure you have a really good fitting flathead bit to go in there when trying to turn it. If you havent turned yours in a while, get some Pen oil on there pronto!

One other tip i was given which has worked well is to use some vaseline on the fuel tank lock, stops it getting stiff over time :)
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:16 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rixxy View Post
WHY didn't i see this before, now have a snapped key in the fuel tank and cannot get it open, not much change of help as I'm in Cambodia.

Any ideas appreciated!!! Lucky i can still run on 1 tank so not the end of the world.
A lock smith might be able to pick the lock for you...
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:16 AM   #80
Rixxy
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Problem solved

Well it turns out for the reference of this great thread - that you can remove the seal from around the tank and get two helpers - one with pliers pulling the tank key flap and the other 2 slowly prizing the cap off evenly and eventually the "safety" screw or whatever you want to call it snaps perfects at the bend. Not the ideal way i admit but when your in the shit it works TRUST ME!!

But really If you haven't already removed those 2 useless screws - do it!!!!
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Old 04-03-2012, 02:42 PM   #81
Scotty P
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerT View Post
Has anyone tried Kroil on this? I have NEVER found anything that it would not loosen given a fair amount of time. YMMV.
Sorry for the hi jack..............

Penetrating oil ........... Average load to break free

None ..............................516 pounds
WD-40 .......................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .....................214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ......................106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds

The Automatic Transmission fluid-Acetone mix was a "home brew" of 50/ 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.

Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results! Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is nearly as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price...
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:38 AM   #82
gefr
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There has been an issue on arrangement of the wiring harness.

In 990Adv, the wiring routed towards the key barell comes out of a plastic cover, mounted on the frame at the steering neck. This harness needs to be loose in order to bend freely, without bending to close angles. There have been some incidents of cut cables, due to a wrongly placed tie wrap at the place the cables are coming out of the frame. Bad factory mounting. It would be good to have a look on arranging moving wires around the neck area.
Cheers.
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:01 AM   #83
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I'm curious about this statement. This might not apply to me since I have the stock setup on my 2011 990 Dakar. I do have quite a bit of free play in the throttle and thought about simply adjusting the barrel adjuster at the throttle grip. My guess is that the cables stretch a little in the first year of riding. I did the same adjustment on my 650 Strom without issue. Am I reading more into this then I should be? Since this bike is new to me I find myself hesitant at times to start tinkering too much.



Quote:
Originally Posted by crashmaster View Post
990 throttle cables:

Do yourself a favor and do not touch the cable adjustments after changing to an aftermarket throttle tube, a G2 cam, or just trying to tighten up the slack. You must hook up a diagnostic computer to do this properly. This is the only correct and accurate way to adjust the cables. Just blindly futzing with the cable adjustments could cause problems with the stepper motor controlled secondary butterflies in the throttle bodies, which could cause a stalling to stall when you roll off the throttle, pull in the clutch to shift, or pull in the clutch coming to a stop.


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Old 04-04-2012, 08:36 AM   #84
BaronVonDarrin
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I bought this side stand relocator after being super paranoid about the damn thing in the stock location and after seeing my bike fall over twice for the retarded long sidestand.

KTM 950 / 990 Adventure - 950 Super Enduro Kickstand Relocation Bracket
http://ktmkickstand.com/default.aspx

Some notes on this:

- not in stock location. a little further back on the bike, like a dirt bike. Somehow this also fixed it being too long. bike actually has a bit of lean and is more stable now. two birds one stone.

- not in stock location at all and in no way attaches to anything even NEAR the freaking crank case.

- gets in the way of my center stand. if I want to put down my center stand I need to put this down first, then push down the center stand, then put this back up. Not a big deal but it is worthy of note I guess.

- beefy. thing is steel and heavy. I dont really like adding weight to my bike. though, it doesnt feel like you can break it with a bunker buster.

- has a harness with it to extend the kickstand safety switch instead of blocking it off or whatever. seems to be juuuust long enough though. So maybe I might find out how to block that off

conclusion: I think I like it.
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:16 AM   #85
BaronVonDarrin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertSurfer View Post
The factory set the steering stops wide out for shipping purposes I suspect. That contributes to an extremely exaggerated wide turning radius. By adjusting the steering head stops down to just before the bars hit the side fairings, you gain a much greater turning angle... for a more agile feel on the bike. It made a huge difference and boost in fun factor/ confidence for me. I got that info from here and this savvy community( thanks Geo!!!).
got a link to something with pictures?
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:33 AM   #86
stevodadevo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry G View Post
If you don't tighten your battery cables and they get loose, the bike will start back firing and eventualy it will shut down when under load(3000rpm+). It happened to me while riding with 20+ BMWs. We all thought it was vacuum line leak. I got abused for the entire trip.

What about oil light flickering at idle and then goes away when above 1500rpm?
Your shorting out, back firing KTM STILL ran circles around those BMW guys and their lattes! Ha! I know, I was there!
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Old 04-04-2012, 05:43 PM   #87
gouralnik
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Cleaning, lubricating, greasing, clear coat finishes etc.

I read a lot of threads and try to do most of the maintenance work myself. I think for beginners it might be extremely helpful to know the basic product/brand info on the easy cleaning, greasing, lubricating etc. procedures. I sometimes find myself stuck in the very basic steps due to lack of knowledge what product to use.

From different threads it seems that a lot of people are using very different products - what I'm trying to achieve here is to summarize the basic products that perform well for the average rider. Products that everyone should have in the shed to be able to perform basic maintenance tasks outlined below.

What brands / products do you use when:

1. Cleaning and greasing the front / rear brake calipers
2. Cleaning spokes, rims and brake discs
3. Cleaning and greasing sidestand / centrestand
4. Cleaning and greasing the wheel / steering head bearings
5. Cleaning and lubricating chain
6. Do you apply any protective aluminium clear coat finish after cleaning your swingarm?
7. Do you apply any protective finish after washing and polishing the tanks / panels?
8. What products do you use to protect / seal electrical connections/ports?
9. What anti-seize do you use?
10. What do you use to unlock some bolts/nuts?

Feel free to add as you go - I think it will be of very valuable information to be able to get the right product that works the first time and use it for basic maintenance. THANK YOU.
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:01 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gouralnik View Post

What brands / products do you use when:

1. Cleaning and greasing the front / rear brake calipers
2. Cleaning spokes, rims and brake discs
3. Cleaning and greasing sidestand / centrestand
4. Cleaning and greasing the wheel / steering head bearings
5. Cleaning and lubricating chain
6. Do you apply any protective aluminium clear coat finish after cleaning your swingarm?
7. Do you apply any protective finish after washing and polishing the tanks / panels?
8. What products do you use to protect / seal electrical connections/ports?
9. What anti-seize do you use?
10. What do you use to unlock some bolts/nuts?
For all the above I prefer only the purest of rocky mountain river/stream/creek water (preferably with the throttle wide open and the front wheel in the air)



...but I also use this technique:


...sorry couldn't resist
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:09 PM   #89
Weldit
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Location: Muskoka Ontario Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladukebob View Post
I'm curious about this statement. This might not apply to me since I have the stock setup on my 2011 990 Dakar. I do have quite a bit of free play in the throttle and thought about simply adjusting the barrel adjuster at the throttle grip. My guess is that the cables stretch a little in the first year of riding. I did the same adjustment on my 650 Strom without issue. Am I reading more into this then I should be? Since this bike is new to me I find myself hesitant at times to start tinkering too much.
took some slack out of mine - one of the first things I did - 2011 dakar edition
what is the worst thing that can happen ? - you have to loosen it off a tad - big deal
I hate having a ton of free play in throttle - not acceptable to me
no issue for me - just somebody being PARANOID - in my opinion
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:17 PM   #90
Katoom119
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Location: Knoxville, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gouralnik View Post
I read a lot of threads and try to do most of the maintenance work myself. I think for beginners it might be extremely helpful to know the basic product/brand info on the easy cleaning, greasing, lubricating etc. procedures. I sometimes find myself stuck in the very basic steps due to lack of knowledge what product to use.

From different threads it seems that a lot of people are using very different products - what I'm trying to achieve here is to summarize the basic products that perform well for the average rider. Products that everyone should have in the shed to be able to perform basic maintenance tasks outlined below.

What brands / products do you use when:

1. Cleaning and greasing the front / rear brake calipers
2. Cleaning spokes, rims and brake discs
3. Cleaning and greasing sidestand / centrestand
4. Cleaning and greasing the wheel / steering head bearings
5. Cleaning and lubricating chain
6. Do you apply any protective aluminium clear coat finish after cleaning your swingarm?
7. Do you apply any protective finish after washing and polishing the tanks / panels?
8. What products do you use to protect / seal electrical connections/ports?
9. What anti-seize do you use?
10. What do you use to unlock some bolts/nuts?

Feel free to add as you go - I think it will be of very valuable information to be able to get the right product that works the first time and use it for basic maintenance. THANK YOU.
Note: everything is generic or the cheapest crap at the local auto store unless otherwise stated.

1. Brake cleaner but I haven't torn mine apart yet. Just exterior stuff.
2. Spokes and rims: Honda polish or any kind of spray can wax. Discs: aforementioned brake cleaner
3. Whatever oil I happen to grab first. Could be BreakFree that I use on my guns, could be TriFlow I use on my bicycles.
4. Haven't done this on the big bike but on my dirt bikes it was plain old axle grease.
5. Motul Chain Cleaner, a nifty chain cleaning brush from Cycle Gear, and to lube whatever dry lube I happened to find on sale.
6. Nope. Depending on whats on there it might get hit with Motul Chain Cleaner or Honda Polish.
7. Nope. Used to wipe them down with Honda Polish but now with the Safari Tanks I say screw it.
8. Dielectric grease and waterproof spade connectors (the ones with the heat shrink) when applicable
9. The silver kind from Autozone. It's worked for the last 10,000 miles.
10. Ahh, the important one. Antiseize as a preventative, then I use small wrench, bigger wrench, even bigger wrench, then cuss while getting a breaker bar to attach to the even bigger wrench (I like Archimedes). If it's still not come loose then I skip the PB Blaster and go straight to the heat gun. If it's still not loose then I start plugging in tools, like grinders. I've only had to do that once though, on a chain adjuster bolt that had seized.

I don't think any one brand is more important than another. These bikes don't care. Pretty much everything works the same for these applications.
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