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Old 04-08-2012, 04:07 PM   #61
Leaf OP
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That's going to be a heck of a job......

I predict that I'll build 3 subframes before I end up with one that works. >_>
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:20 PM   #62
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Tires. "Tyres", for y'all across the pond. Or "Tars" iffn yer from 'round hyar'bouts.

Shinko 244. They were massively cheap (comparitively). Tubes still aren't here yet, though.

3.00-16 for the hack. Original is a 22-year-old 3.25-16 Slovenian jobbie. Close 'nuff...

The idea here is to eventually put an 18" rear hawk rim on the hack and run the same size tires all around. Then I only have to carry one spare, and rotation will just be a matter of swapping wheels between the hack and rear without remounting tires...



4.10-18 for the pusher.



2.15x18 rim from a Hondamatic and a 4.10-18 for the front. Original is a 3.60-18 on a 1.85x19 rim. According to my measurements, I have 3/8" on each side with the new tire, and the circumference is about the same, so the speedometer should still be accurate. If it turns out to not fit or rub, I ought to be ok if I change the fender mounting. May have to modify the spacer for the new rim. Fun.



Top of the tub primed. I decided to be lazy and didn't bondo the chips. Not that it matters compared to the bike it's going on...



Top of the rub painted. There were a couple of runs. Oh well.



While waiting for the tub to get dry enough to flip over and do the bottom, let's work on the frame...

Uh oh. If my luck runs the same way it does with the $300 Wonder Truck, that rust is coming through from the other side and it'll bust a big hole when I brush it and I'll have to do a bunch of patching.....



Oh good. It's all surface rust.



Not quite done painting it. It started raining again, so I covered everything but the shock tower with rust bondy spray goop and set it aside until morning.



That old exercise bike in the background was going to donate an Awesome Luggage Rack compatible seat, but it was too hard for my keester. D:

Leaf screwed with this post 04-09-2012 at 07:20 PM
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Old 04-11-2012, 04:00 PM   #63
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Tub and frame mounting junk. Much rust. A rusted-on nut or two.



All apart! PB Blaster is wonderful stuff.



The nuts, bolts, and washers go into a cup and get soaked in a mixture of WD-40 and old motor oil.



Everything wire brushed. It takes longer than you expect to properly brush every nook of those little parts. X_x



Stuff painted. The one U-piece looked like it had been cut down and one of the holes had pulled out, so I decided to scrap it.

It was a cool 37 degrees out today, and flurried snow on and off. Too cold to paint, so there were many runs. Oh well.







Bottom of the tub painted. I ran out of both primer and enamel, so I finished it off with the last of the can of rust treatment primer. Good 'nuff...



Let's see if we can clean up the seat. For lack of a better term, it looks like there is dried up bovine fecal matter ground in deep. Perhaps that's literally what it is....



Much better!



The seat pans on both are a little rusty, but the bottom one is the worst. I brushed it as well as I could, but I think I ought to take the seat apart and do it all proper-like. I expect there is rust on the inside as well...



The clips that hold the pleather onto the seat pan are in various states of rust-out on both parts. I think many of them will not survive removal. What is the technical term for these clips, so that I can ask Google Shopping where to get some?



Here's what I have for mounting bits that go on the tug frame.



Looks like I need:

1x Part A
1x Part B
2x Part C
3x Part D

What are the technical terms for these parts, and where do y'all reckon is the best place to get them? I can probably fabricate parts C and D, but if I can find one each of parts A and B somewhere and not have to try to fabricate those, I'd be less worried about the hack breaking off in the middle of nowhere. <_<
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:36 PM   #64
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Do y'all reckon that some upholstery clips for a minicooper would work?

Like: http://www.7ent.com/products/seat-up...p-ghf1500.html

Or for an old Vespa?

Like: http://www.scooterworks.com/Clip-Sea...ery-P1732.aspx

I've never seen one up close, so I've no idea of the size.... I 'spect the vespa clips would definitely work, but the minicooper clips are cheaper. >_>
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:41 PM   #65
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My parts came in today. I got a couple of tires mounted and the new throttle cable installed. I took it for a spin and the bike started running on only one cylinder again, but by then it was getting dark, so I guess I will have to crack the carbs back open again tomorrow night. -_-'
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Old 04-13-2012, 06:12 AM   #66
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Go Leaf!

Parts A and B above (probably all of them) I've seen on EBay. Look for CJ750 or Chiang Jiang sidecars.
Classic Bike Sidecars (Royal Enfield site) has those universal mounts for sale too.
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Old 04-13-2012, 05:59 PM   #67
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Groovy. Thanks for the info.

I sent an email requesting a quote from Velorex USA, but they haven't responded. D:

I didn't get /anything/ done on the hack today. I called in the big guns (my neighbor, who is the Carburetor Whisperer), and we fooled with it until dark. He performed his Magnum Opus of Carburetor Whispering just as it was getting dark, so I haven't mounted them back up to see if it runs properly yet.

If it doesn't run in the morning when I mount the throttle body back up, I am going to investigate the valve clearance. And cross my fingers and hope that the valve cover gasket doesn't crumble to dust when I crack it open, as I forgot to order one with the last batch of parts. >_>
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:19 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaf View Post


Looks like I need:

1x Part A
1x Part B
2x Part C
3x Part D
Ebay isn't turning up anything. D:

I think I can wing it for everything but the eye bolts and the threaded blocks. For the one that is missing, I have to wonder if I might be farther ahead to just replace the threaded clevis part of the rear lower mount with a heim joint or some sort of bolt-through jobbie on the subframe.

Thoughts? :3

Or anyone with a velorex clamp they want to sell me? :P
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Old 04-14-2012, 03:43 PM   #69
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Today was the last surge of Tug fiddling.

The Carb Whisperer's magic worked wonders, and it's running like a top now. Turns out that one of the passages that supplies vacuum to the vacuum piston had something funky in it.

Let's build a working indicator panel out of two brokens ones off of some random Honda junk!



Done! Also, pretty blue gauges. I'll paint them when I get around to it....



Homemade fork boots are too tight. Oh well.



Pusher mounted. It tears around the yard much more positively than the street slick I took off of it. :3



The bolts that I have are not long enough to mount the rotor on the new rim. The new rim came off something that used dual discs, so I need to bolt all the way through and put nuts on the other side. It does fit, though, but I'd rather ride around with an elderly hard tire than no front brake until I get some bolts. >_>





Hack tire mounted.



Last burst of hack parts painting before dark. Reassembly will commence in the morning. Then I'll be able to get accurate measurements and begin the Quest for the Subframe.





Proper (hard) paint on the bottom of the tub.

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Old 04-14-2012, 05:02 PM   #70
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Looking good!!.Are going to build your own subframe??.If so heres how I did my last 2.I sat down next to the right side of the bike with a tape and some paper and just started looking for places to bolt it on.


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Old 04-14-2012, 06:26 PM   #71
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Yea, I'm going to (try to) build my own.

Wait until you see pictures of the Junk Pile down on the farm that I'll be drawing parts from. It is epic, lol.

I don't have "state of the art" fabrication facilities, but I do have access to:

- Lots of cardboard to make mock-ups and patterns.
- A bench vise and good selection of BFHs (the BFH is my favorite tool :3 ).
- A 240V AC stick welder, with a selection of farm rod (6011, 6013, 7014).
- An acetelyene torch (hopefully not empty).
- A drill press (finding drill bits is another matter, though).
- A shop press (which I plan to use to make the U-clamps for the sidecar mounts, by building a jig and pressing a piece of flat stock down with a pipe to make the U pieces).
- A bandsaw (which may still be broken).
- A saws-all, if the bandsaw isn't working.
- A bench grinder/brush.
- The hugest badass granddaddy of all handheld angle grinders, which eats metal like butter, if you can hold it up long enough to get the work done.
- Lots of english carriage bolts, nuts, and washers, but I really want to keep everything metric so I don't have to haul around two sets of tools...

The Hawk is one of those dubious bikes that doesn't have an under-frame (or whatever it's called). The engine is a stressed member and just "hangs" in the frame. You pull the engine by supporting it with a floor jack, pulling all the motor mounts, and dropping it down.

The centerstand rides on the same axle as the swingarm, so I can't unbolt it and attach the subframe there. I want to keep the centerstand, anyway. It's too handy to do without. :3

The exhaust collector is in the way of dropping a brace down off the footpeg mounts and coming out under the exhaust. I could go /over/ the exhaust, but that would require several joints and be less strong, I have a feeling. The collector also bulges off the bottom of the bike and gets in the way. It is tempting to remove it and not have a crossover, but the interwebs say that the bike will run much worse without the collector/crossover.

I have a feeling that it is going have to be a complicated 2-piece contraption that bolts on in the front to the motor mount at the end of the downtube, then goes under the engine, out around the exhaust collector, and up over the exhaust pipes and bolts to the peg mounts on either side, then bolts together somewhere (so I can get it on around the exhaust). I'm leery of making a one-sided subframe; I am afraid that the lateral forces exerted by the sidecar will bend the (skinny) frame unless I attach it on both sides.

Maybe I need to do some chopping and welding on the headers and put together some sort of scrambler-style 2-into-1 exhaust on the outboard side. But that would be a lot of work (and I'd probably screw up badly somewhere), not to mention that the exhaust would then be really near the heat sink on the regulator/rectifier, which would not be ideal...

Alternately, I could mount the sidecar in a less-than-ideal fashion, but I really really want to try to keep the rear bottom mount horizontal, if I can....... I guess I could always just do that and then fix it when something breaks....

It's dark in this part of the world now, but I'll try to shoot a video of the underside of the tug tomorrow and post it here and see if I can glean some ideas from y'all. :3
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:45 PM   #72
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Here is the promised video... :3

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwzdOuadylw

Whachy'all think about the mounting idears?
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:19 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaf View Post
Yea, I'm going to (try to) build my own.

* snip *

The Hawk is one of those dubious bikes that doesn't have an under-frame (or whatever it's called). The engine is a stressed member and just "hangs" in the frame. You pull the engine by supporting it with a floor jack, pulling all the motor mounts, and dropping it down.

The centerstand rides on the same axle as the swingarm, so I can't unbolt it and attach the subframe there. I want to keep the centerstand, anyway. It's too handy to do without. :3

Lots of bikes without a full frame with a sidecar , mine included .
Have a look around this forum for pic's of dmc's 'halo' sub frame used on klr's .and adapt to suit your purpose . Center stand will not lift the steer or tug wheel so no great loss as you will need to carry a car jack of some kind for on road repairs .
Had a look at your video and can't see why you can not lose the stand . Top rear mount , pony up and ask Claude about a male clevis to replace your upper shock bolt to attach your strut . If you were closer I would turn one up on the lathe for you .
Parts fiche for a 400 hawk frame http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb400a-ha...ist/F++28.html


Keep at it
Have fun .



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Old 04-15-2012, 08:13 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by FR700 View Post
Top rear mount , pony up and ask Claude about a male clevis to replace your upper shock bolt to attach your strut .
Oh my! That's a great idea! =:O Brilliant.

Edit: The clevis on the top of the shock is threaded rather than going straight through and taking a nut on the back, so that might make it a bit difficult to get the eye in the right position, but I reckon I could drill the threads out and put a nut and a lock washer on it.

I wonder if I could do the same with the exhaust hanger bolt for the lower rear, slightly longer than needed, long enough to lock it down with a nut to hold the eye in the correct position and the exhaust hanger up snug (unless 10mm is too small to bear the shearing forces, though that's the same size as the shock bolt)..... That plate that the exhaust, right footpeg, and swingarm bolt through looks pretty solid to me. Solid enough? I expect I could drill it out and re-tap it to 12 or 14mm, too, if I had to.

Edit:


Quote:
Originally Posted by FR700 View Post
Center stand will not lift the steer or tug wheel
I figured I'd carry a ratchet strap to raise the steer wheel by hooking around a root or guardrail or something and ratcheting the back end down. The tug is light enough that I figure I could probably just remove the ballast and lift it and jam something under the frame.

But yea, a little scissor jack or something sounds a lot easier. XD Though the centerstand sure makes chain lubing less of a chore. :3

Thanks for the advice. I owe ya one. :3

Leaf screwed with this post 04-15-2012 at 08:37 PM
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:22 PM   #75
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Here's some pics of the subframe I built for the Vstrom,it didn't have a frame under or in front of the engine.Maybe these pics will give you some idea's.

Alan..




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