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Old 05-20-2012, 03:25 PM   #106
Leaf OP
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Small progress today. I stayed up all night slacking, which cut into the hacking time today. >_>

Built a thingy to bolt to the grain blower brackets.



If that won't support a sidecar, nothing will. <_< Thick metal. Thick tubing. Thick thick thick. If it doesn't rust out from the inside. <_< I may weld caps over the ends and weld on a bung so I can fill the square piece with old motor oil.

The sheet runs full tang with the square tube, and it's welded all the way around.



Also made a little piece to hook to the footpeg mount so I have something out there to hook stuff to. 3/8 angle, hopefully strong enough to not bend. :3



One of the bolts doesn't have quite enough threads in, but I'll get a longer one next time I am in town. :3 Didn't have any metric stuff that would fit the threads behind the footpeg, so I had to uh... Borrow longer bolts from elsewhere on the bike. <_<



I'm going to run a piece diagonally from the middle of the square stock in front to the angle on the footpeg, for support.

Leaf screwed with this post 05-20-2012 at 03:31 PM
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Old 05-27-2012, 05:57 PM   #107
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Baby steps...

Gettin' closer!

So close, yet so far away. :3

Trimmed the square tube to length and welded an eye for the lower front mount on. No way to adjust the wheel lead much aside from twisting the gooseneck a little, but it's sitting at about 10 1/2" lead like that with the bike off the centerstand and the hack leveled and the gooseneck adjusted.





Hope that holds, lol.

Upper front mount. The one complete Velorex Unifarsical mount I had.



Rear lower mount. Hope it holds. O_O If the bolts shear off, I'll replace them with hardened bolts......



Hopefully I'll have time to go back and figure up a upper rear mount tomorrow. Still can't attach the hack and drive it until I get some bolts though. The ones that hook the angle on for the rear lower mount aren't long enough and only have a couple threads in.
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:56 PM   #108
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Rawr!

Mostly done, except for the sidecar electrics!!!





Upper rear mount.



Had to redo the lower rear mount after getting the right sized bolts.



Ballast. :3



I toed it in about 3/4" with about 10" lead, and eyeballed the leanout. I think I got lucky. It tracks good and straight. Slight wobble when accelerating hard in low gears, but it smooths out past 25 mph. I'm glad I went down a tooth on the front sprocket. It tops out around 60, and takes a little while to get there, but that's fine for what I want to use it for. :P

The steering requires less force than I expected, and it's not as hard to drive as I expected. Maybe my time on 4-wheelers has helped there, but I didn't feel out of control, even when a deer jumped out on the way home and I had to emergency stop (which I had practiced several times on the dirt road before heading onto the pavement :3 ). I'm still going to be having some pasture time, and taking it easy and on the back roads for a while though, don't get me wrong!!

Overall, I am quite pleased.
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:18 AM   #109
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Awesome!

That came out really cool, Leaf! makes me want to start another!
Go easy on that thing and check all your welds and bolts periodically. I had to tweak mine after a couple weeks but nothing has moved since.
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:45 AM   #110
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I'll prolly tack weld all the adjustable bits once I'm sure it's all dialed in right. :3
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:15 PM   #111
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:33 PM   #112
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I think my lower front mount, bike side, might be sticking out too far... I had to turn the clevis on that one all the way in, and the others are near full extension.

But I wanted to try to get 48" spread between the wheels. :3

Do y'all think I ought to shorten it and pull the car in a bit so the threaded rod isn't as stressed?
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Old 06-05-2012, 10:20 AM   #113
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I set off at 4:00 this morning and drove the hack to a client site, piled high with tools and spools of CAT5 cable.

The first thing I noticed was that gas mileage must have suffered considerably, as I hit reserve right after leaving the house, and I filled it up on the way to work yesterday. I haven't been keeping track (because my speedometer and odometer are wildly inaccurate), but I'm guessing I got somewhere in the mid 20s. D:=

Oh well, that's still 2.5x better than the $300 Wonder Truck!

That was with a 3' tall pile of tires strapped to the rack, though. I took them off before I left this morning, and the thing seemed to have more giddyup and cruise comfortably at 55 instead of 45, so maybe there was an aerodynamic factor involved.

I also encountered what I shall dub the JYHDF (Junk Yard Hack Delay Factor) twice. Hm!

The hack tire started going flat on the way home. Turns out the valve stem was bent and leaking. I pumped it up and put a piece of sandwich bag under the cap to try to seal it a little. It held enough air to get home and replace the stem with the one out of the old tube, but my arms are very tired from having it pulling towards the low tire the whole time!
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Old 06-05-2012, 10:43 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaf View Post
I think my lower front mount, bike side, might be sticking out too far... I had to turn the clevis on that one all the way in, and the others are near full extension.

But I wanted to try to get 48" spread between the wheels. :3

Do y'all think I ought to shorten it and pull the car in a bit so the threaded rod isn't as stressed?
I think you want about a quarter of the length of that rod threaded into the strut. At least a couple inches.
How long is your wheelbase? Where are you coming up with the 48" width?
I think my rig is pretty wide- I have a 56" wheelbase and the rig is about 50" wide. it's an airhead, so the chair is set further from the bike than it could be, so I could adjust the valves.I don't know if there's some ratio that people use.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:13 AM   #115
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I talked to Claude on the phone sometime last month (a wonderful fellow, he gave me all kinds of good advice).

He mentioned that it would be a good idea to try not to go below 48" wheelbase.
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:23 PM   #116
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Great hack fella. I too have a lightweight cheapo hack for rattling about on. I run her at 40-45ish and get 50+ UK mpg. I have big stuff, but, love the tiddler or 'mighty bullet' as my 7 year old calls it.

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Old 06-06-2012, 08:23 AM   #117
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Yours is pretty keen! I'm gonna have to get me some of those signal/marker/tail lights. They look like they're off a Ural? Mine only came with a 2-filament brake light and a 1-filament front marker light, no signals. I was looking into cutting the right-side ones on the bike down, rethreading them shorter, and bolting them to the fender, but I don't want wiring hanging out inside the fender where debris will damage it. I don't really want to mount them to the tub, once again because I don't want my junk in the tub sliding around and tearing things up, and I hope to eventually devise some kind of quick-release gadgetry so I can swap in a utility platform without crawling around on the ground underneath.

I think I'd be safe pulling the car in a little closer to the bike. I've around 80# ballast in the car at the moment, and simply /cannot/ fly it unless I am doing donuts in a paved parking lot, lol. On the dirt, it skids out before it flies. I've got almost exactly 48" wheelbase at the moment. Maybe a hair less after getting everything toed in right, but not much less. Any thoughts on this, y'all?
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:52 AM   #118
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No expert, of course, but I'd say basically you don't want to be a square, dig? Meaning the width should be less than the wheelbase of the bike by some factor. For instance, my rig- bike wheelbase 56", rear wheel to hack wheel width 50", 50/56= .89- so width is 11% less than the wheelbase. Pretty wide. I've had it parked next to Ural rigs and proportionally Urals are noticeably narrower. It handles very well, but there is probably more yaw on acceleration than if it were narrower.
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:16 AM   #119
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Oh interesting. I hadn't thought about more space between them resulting in more yaw. I guess that also means more resistance from the SC, so will the rig also accelerate more quickly and/or reach a higher top speed with the hack closer to the tug?

My bike is about 55" from axle to axle between the front and rear wheels; the 48" being between the rear and hack wheel centers. So I guess I am sitting on about .87. I do get very noticeable yaw, especially when snapping the throttle shut, but it is easy to correct for, moreso than I'd expected from my reading. Maybe because the rig is so light...

What distance do you have between the rear and hack wheels on your rig, toastmuncher?
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:32 AM   #120
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Check these out...

http://www.sidecar.com/links3.asp

Hi Leaf,

The link above is to a bunch of references that are pretty informative, although a quick perusal didn't see anything that addresses the width question, beyond an entry that suggests 50". There may be something in one of them.......
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