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Old 03-07-2012, 10:40 AM   #46
SOLO LOBO
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This thread is really lacking in picture content AW....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 03-07-2012, 04:54 PM   #47
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bevel heaven can be expensive-

try MGcycle - its moto guzzi mostly but lots of parts are the same- carbs and forks and brakes etc etc.
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:15 AM   #48
batoutoflahonda
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As far as cleaning the motor up.

We use this crazy aluminum cleaner on airplanes. Apply it and keep working it. It will turn even dirty porous alum to chrome like, and you may not even need a metal brush. It's a paste. After that, as some one mentioned before, you could clear coat it. Just find a high temp/chemical resistant brand. I think the oilheads have clear cote over paint, judging by the staining from dripped California gas on my "S". Or. I've used WD40, or silicone based spray oil or wax (the oil evaporates, but the silicone stays) when I lived coast side in Cal. But you do have to stay up on it.

The met-all is pretty good:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/...etal.html?pg=1

or:
http://www.aircraftpolish.com/specrolite.html
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:15 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batoutoflahonda View Post
As far as cleaning the motor up.

We use this crazy aluminum cleaner on airplanes.
There are several different metal cleaning products on each of those pages.

Which one are you recommending?
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:11 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesmoDog View Post
I I'm also surprised any blasting media aggressive enough to remove chrome wouldn't mess up the aluminum underneath.
It did, but it was salvageable.
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:23 PM   #51
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On a project past I had to remove flaking chrome from aluminum and the only way I found was a nasty sandblaster, chrome shops had no way to remove it.
In the couple of small test patches I've done, I've found that what little chrome remains is loose enough that scotchbrite pads can take it off with some tough scrubbing. I'll try some very fine sand paper on the really stubborn stuff. Maybe a fine flapper bit on a dremel.
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:59 PM   #52
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There was a place in Seattle that did hard chroming for hydraulics about ten years ago. I'm sure it's still there. If your forks aren't too bad, solder up the pits or JB weld them. Ride the bike to Seattle and fix it there.

They first grind down the existing chrome then replate to the specified dimensions.

I've heard of places doing nitrate (not sure of the spelling) coatings that supposedly are better than chrome - slipperier and harder.
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:43 AM   #53
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I actually found a place here (well, 4 hours away in Guadalajara) that hard chromes hydraulic shafts for next to nothing. Also I got a quote of $270 for brand new fork legs from forks by frank. We'll see.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:05 AM   #54
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:50 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
I've heard of places doing nitrate (not sure of the spelling) coatings that supposedly are better than chrome - slipperier and harder.
Yep, I'm guessing you mean titanium nitride. Fairly common on newer sport bikes and some high end dirt bikes. The only problem is it makes your fork legs bright gold. A little blingy for my taste:

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Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:56 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
Yep, I'm guessing you mean titanium nitride.
That sounds right.

A buddy got the Forking Frank tubes and wasn't too pleased with them. He said the insides (where the dampers ride) were out of spec and rough. Took him quite a while honing the insides to get them to work.

Considering his experience, I'd go with the shop near you. While you're at it, how about having some of mine done at the same time???
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:04 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
While you're at it, how about having some of mine done at the same time???
That'll be about $400 for UPS, a 3 week wait in customs, they'll arrive shaped like a pretzel because customs doesn't repack anything they inspect, 2 days and about $40 to strip them and chrome them, and another $400 for UPS to get them back to you. Yay Mexico.

Thanks for the tip on Frank's tubes. I mentioned to him that I might just get them rechromed, which he then told me is not possible. It sounded suspiciously like BS to me. My tubes are in very nice shape apart from a couple little missing flakes of chrome. They've been chromed once, they can be chromed again.
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
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Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.

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Old 03-09-2012, 08:18 AM   #58
SOLO LOBO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
Thanks for the tip on Frank's tubes. I mentioned to him that I might just get them rechromed, which he then told me is not possible. It sounded suspiciously like BS to me.
If you ever read Classic Bike magazine from England it is an every day, head down to the corner shop kind of deal to re-chrome fork legs...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:45 AM   #59
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While setting up an area to dismantle this thing I realized one key difference with ducatis. Instead of being able to take the engine out of the bike you have to take the bike off of the engine. There'll be no easily movable rolling frame once you take the engine out. Just a pile-o-parts. Thanks, Italy.
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Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:57 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
While setting up an area to dismantle this thing I realized one key difference with ducatis. Instead of being able to take the engine out of the bike you have to take the bike off of the engine. There'll be no easily movable rolling frame once you take the engine out. Just a pile-o-parts. Thanks, Italy.

I take it they had started putting the swingarm pivot in the cases by then? I keep forgetting you're not working on a bevel.

FWIW the fork legs I got from Frank's worked out just fine.
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