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Old 12-26-2014, 07:03 AM   #1
Novanglus OP
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KLR cam nut turning

Hello,
I just got a non-running 2008 KLR650. I opened up the valve cover this morning, turned the engine over, an noticed that the intake cam doesn't turn. Everything else is working, and the valves have clearance (appear to be in the closed position); the gear for the cam turns as the timing chain moves, but the bolt in the center along with the entire intake cam don't turn.

I'm going to look up exploded views and do some research to figure out how this all goes together and what's going on, but I figured with all the experience on here, someone would be able to give me some insight.

Again: the intake side cams have clearance (.010 is the gauge I checked) but the cam shaft doesn't turn with the rest of the engine. There are no immediate signs of broken stuff, cracked metal, messed twisted bit, etc.

Thanks!
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Old 12-26-2014, 07:15 AM   #2
broncobowsher
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If all that happened was the sprocket spun on the cam you got off lucky. My doom and gloom (for an '08 KLR) is the cam seized in the head and the sprocket spun loose as collateral damage. Try and turn the intake cam a little, is it seized? Next pull the cam and check the journals. That will give you a real good idea of what needs to be done next.
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Old 12-26-2014, 08:40 AM   #3
74C5
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Kawi has used this basic design for many many years across platforms and displacements. You probably have this basic setup below:
The cam gear has a pin that locates into the cam. The pin will shear off. However, the more important thing is why? Could be a number of reasons. As per the above take down everything, and remove the head for piston inspection, and make sure the journals are clean.

Here is one of the failures:
Over tightening the banjos will strips a single thread two and that will get pumped down to the cam. Guess where? Requires rework of the journals and cleaning the cam of the new aluminum. The 650 is probably large enought for a machine shop to be able to hone the journals. Small engines require having the journals done by hand since they didn't intend for any rework. Then replace the cam gear.
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Old 12-26-2014, 09:41 AM   #4
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Took the head off. The intake valves are clearly bent.

Before removal, the cam spun freely. One of the tappet spacers was cracked.

There is a pin in the sprocket that connects it to the cam shaft, and that pin had sheared. Nice feature, really: a lot of stuff that may have gotten destroyed upstream were unaffected.

Looks like at least a top end job, maybe a new head, the cam shaft and everything else looks fine.

I'm not certain how to check the oil journals, but I'll read up on it and make sure to check all that. I'll have someone check the plain bearings (is that what you call the surfaces the cams ride on? I'm not sure) to see if they are too worn.

Thanks for the help so far, that's some really solid advice. Any info on how to tell if the plain bearings and cams are worn too much would be appreciated. Should I take the cylinder off, have it honed and do rings while I'm this far in? The piston looks fine at first inspection.
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Old 12-26-2014, 09:50 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Novanglus View Post
Should I take the cylinder off, have it honed and do rings while I'm this far in?

Bore it out to a 685 while you're there, some of the 2008's were oil burners(rings).


Edit, it probably jumped timing since the balancer lever doesn't work on that year, no spring tension when adjusting. Cam journals are probably fine IMHO.
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Old 12-26-2014, 11:34 AM   #6
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you have removed the cam journal caps in order to get the head off. if the journals are still shiny they are OK. when run low on oil the right side exhaust journal starves first & will score. if run for long it will shred the journal... you haven't mentioned that so I'm guessing it's OK.

.010 on the intake is out of spec (loose) but not that far out. I think what you were saying about the "tappet spacer" being cracked is the key. those are the valve adjusting "shims". if it's cracked, that would be because it jumped out of it's bucket & got wedged in something... I suspect that is the cause of shearing the locator pin. I have see this happen before & this is what I would do is:

check the bolts & threads that hold the journal caps for pulled threads, distortion & stretch. install the caps and torque to spec (I think its 104 in pounds, but check). if they take torque & feel normal I would re-use them. if in doubt, helicoil the threads, replace he bolts as required. if there are pulled threads, inspect the inside of the valve cover too... the loose cam can hit the cover (it leaves marks) & it pulls the threads out of the cover bolts as well

check the valve guides for cracking. I doubt they will be cracked but check. because of the bucket design, they don't wear very much so if there is less than 30k miles they are probably still in new spec for size.

replace the cam chain... it was stressed & I wouldn't trust it even if it looks good.

look at the cam lobe faces, especially the ones with the bent valves. is there wavyness, distortion, chipping of any kind? replace if there is. I've seen it before & the shims were eating the cam lobes before the meltdown.

while the head is off, consider some porting work. if you can't send it out there is a couple things you can do that are easy. I have pix if you want.

a very heavy plus 1 on going with the 685... worth it. especially since you are this deep into it. just be sure to get good machine work. Eagle Mike and Wymann Winn both supply kits & will machine yours of do a cylinder exchange. can't go wrong with WWs , I've done a few & they worked fine. he even puts the new radius on the head gasket. stick with OEM gaskets. I've had mixed results with aftermarket, but never with Kawi

for sure get the Eagle "dohickey". its the best option to fix Kawi's poory designed pos balancer chain tensioner that they need their asses kicked for
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Beezer screwed with this post 12-26-2014 at 11:40 AM
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Old 01-05-2015, 11:18 AM   #7
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The head is toast: journal is turned over too much according to my engine machinist. Probably sell it on ebay, though I don't understand who buys these things or what they do with them.

I'm not going for an upgrade, but I did find that a head goes for between $300 and $400 on ebay (that's ebay sold listings; current listings are around $850, but you'd have to be pretty desperate to overpay by that much) with lower miles and everything in it. I'll be waiting for one with a reasonable price. I also hit up KLR650.net, and I'll see if anyone there has one for sale.

Chain looks fine, everything else seems in order. I'm going to flush out anything that aluminum slivers may have gotten into and reassemble, per the recommendation of the engine machinist. Dude knows his stuff.
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Old 01-05-2015, 11:23 AM   #8
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Before you throw in the towell on your head contact Mike at Engine Dynamics. He can repair the journals.

Engine Dynamics LLC
2040 Petaluma Blvd. North
Petaluma Ca 94952
Phone: 707.763.7519

Tell him I referred you
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Old 01-05-2015, 12:17 PM   #9
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" journal is turned over too much".... what does he/you mean by that? got a picture? there are ways to fix it if it isn't completely cooked (like from running out of oil)

I have also heard good things about Engine Dynamics

edit: was the oil filter full of aluminum?
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