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Old 03-06-2012, 03:52 PM   #16
baloneyskin daddy
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Maybe I'm a asshat but I currently ride a 2011 ec300 Gas Gas on exactly the terrain you described and it beats the hell out of the bike and me. With those little wheels every rock is going to be magnified every rut will be deeper. I've been at this a long time and you've either lost your mind or inherited some money.Or as I suspect ,you really have no experience on this terrain.
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baloneyskin daddy View Post
Maybe I'm a asshat but I currently ride a 2011 ec300 Gas Gas on exactly the terrain you described and it beats the hell out of the bike and me. With those little wheels every rock is going to be magnified every rut will be deeper. I've been at this a long time and you've either lost your mind or inherited some money.Or as I suspect ,you really have no experience on this terrain.
You are right on all accounts. So no need to check back. Thanks
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:03 PM   #18
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Just got it picked up

Ok, so I just got the bike home and took a few glamor shots.
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:18 PM   #19
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Spring Weights

The spring rates I am using are .36 for the front and 6.0 for the rear. They should be here soon. I don't want to ride it until they come in. I haven't made up my mind as far as the fork oil goes. If anyone has real experience with these forks I would love accurate advice. I don't love trial and error.

P.S. Also looking for a rigid grab handle for lifting the bike over impasses if anyone has a good one.
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:28 PM   #20
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Look into kx125 brake lines or call a custom shop (speigel) and call motion pro for the throttle and clutch cables. Bar risers and hi bars to your liking.

Take your suspension in for work. I bet there are fat kids your weight that ride these things.

Get some good tugger straps for the bike and a custom tall seat. I measured the ergos on mine and the peg/seat distances weren't that far off a standard dirt bike.

i was trying for a flyweight stealth trail poaching bike with mine. The engine didn't grunt quite enough to keep from having to rev the motor into the loud decibel part of the torque curve. I'm a couple inches taller than you and lazier so i abandoned the effort.

Keep track of the weight for us, also the ergo measurements.

This was mine

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Old 03-07-2012, 09:16 AM   #21
troy safari carpente
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Torque, cc's, ergo's... it's all relative... faaarkme, it's only an 80...?!

While the cubic capacity overlords (they're the ones that tell us all that we need a 900 to 1200 cc multi cylinder motorcycle if you're into "adventure riding" ... and that if you venture into the "woods" on anything less than 450cc enduro-cross superthumper - you're gonna get stuck on a hill somewhere ) may cry out at your lil' Kawa' 100cc project...

Maybe the "patron saint" of this thread should be...











1989 ISDE Germany... Gold Medal...





Or what about this later version; KX 80 motor in a perimeter framed KX 125 chassis... Multiple ISDE Champion Gian Marco Rossi rode a bike similar to this one in the 1990/91 & '92 world championship enduro seasons...


I saw him (close up and personal) ride the wheels off one at the 1992 ISDE in Cessnock Australia... and there was HEAPS of dusty rutted, rocky gnarly single track at that event, not to mention STEEP technical hills with rock steps and ledges...

Sure, if you're on the portly size of things or just "joe average" who wants to mozy on around the trails... a 350 to 450cc fourstroke is probably going to be the choice...

But I've noticed of late a big swing back in popularity of sub 250cc bikes (especially 200/125cc two strokes) in the nitt gritty single track enduro scene. Remember when everyone went gaga the year Shane Watts overalled severall GNCC races on a 125...

For a trim rider (say sub 65-70 kgs), who is not timid with the shifter and handy with the throttle... a sub 125cc bike will do the job more than well...

For the good ol' "overlords", let them have their tried and true "big bores"

Good luck with gettin' the screamer sorted...
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Old 03-07-2012, 01:54 PM   #22
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Look into the pit bike world. you'll find a lot of good things there for what you are doing.
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Old 03-07-2012, 04:26 PM   #23
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Troy, thanks for all the info. That is a cool article. I appreciate your time in posting the cool old pics. I rode the bike this evening and it was great. I will have some peg and bar issues and flywheel, but I'm in control the hole time, I can put that bike where I want it and it feels like I can giver hell. (got wait to break it in.) Speaking of break in, I would normally do a few slow rides and let the bike get up to temp then cool down. I would do this a few times to help primarily with gear mesh, but I noticed Kawasaki recommends taking the top end off, removing any scuffing and replacing the rings. Is that necessary. Seam like a bit of overkill but no big deal if I truly should.
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:00 PM   #24
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I don't get it . why not just buy a trials bike?
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:19 PM   #25
troy safari carpente
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50cc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zfcrm6PbWj4

These things are current euro 50cc enduro bikes...

... though at this point in time (for some balance/perspective to the discussion), it is probably prudent to say that none of these blokes are 6ft 1" and all are a fair bit under 190lbs. As you can see from the earlier posted photo's; LR was of a pretty trim/jockey like stature, back when he rode the 80cc Kawa' in the ISDE... and Gian Marco Rossi was maybe 170 lbs all up, with his riding gear on, and a brick in his bumbag...


so... just syain'
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:18 AM   #26
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pitbike tall bars.
EFM auto clutch (optional)
11oz flywheel weight.
bigger rear sprocket
bark busters.
Taller cables from motion pro, just call them and they will make them. (if you need em)
Longer stainless brake line up front.
Ebay wide pegs.
Coolant overflow bottle. (cant remember if it already has one) if you find it boils in the woods.
You already got the springs for your weight coming. I would not mess with the oil until you have tried the springs first.
tall seat if your legs get cramped.

my qualifications for such recommendations?.... I am 225 lbs and used to ride a kx65 as a pitbike with just springs and a tall seat and bar risers. The naysayers around here can pound sand, jerks.

One of the things I have seen is to swap the 19/16 tires to 17/14 and it makes it more pitbike-ish in the ride which lends itself to woods very well.
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:59 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pookiebear View Post
pitbike tall bars.
EFM auto clutch (optional)
11oz flywheel weight.
bigger rear sprocket
bark busters.
Taller cables from motion pro, just call them and they will make them. (if you need em)
Longer stainless brake line up front.
Ebay wide pegs.
Coolant overflow bottle. (cant remember if it already has one) if you find it boils in the woods.
You already got the springs for your weight coming. I would not mess with the oil until you have tried the springs first.
tall seat if your legs get cramped.

my qualifications for such recommendations?.... I am 225 lbs and used to ride a kx65 as a pitbike with just springs and a tall seat and bar risers. The naysayers around here can pound sand, jerks.

One of the things I have seen is to swap the 19/16 tires to 17/14 and it makes it more pitbike-ish in the ride which lends itself to woods very well.
Cool thanks, I have a 54T rear sprocket (3 up), a 10oz FWW, 1 1/8" Protaper conversion kit, wider grips, heavy duty clutch springs, skid plate, .5" rear set wide foot pegs, frame protectors, O-Ring chain, Pro Circuit Nature Friendly Silencer, barkbusters, and springs on order. I hope to have them in soon.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:16 PM   #28
sixstringsteve
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I totally understand your reasons, I think it's a great project.

I'm 5'6" (28" inseam) and I'm not an expert rider by any means. i enjoy very tight singletrack with switchbacks, steep climbs, rocky trails here in Utah. I'm a 2T guy, and I love the feel of a full-size bike until I dump it on a steep, technical climb. Then I can barely pick it up, and I have a tough time getting my leg over the seat to start it. I realize you don't have any of these problems, but I just wanted to say I totally understand the desire for a little lightweight, flickable bike. If the kx100 had another 4" of wheelbase it'd be the perfect bike for me. Subscribed, and looking forward to your outcome and hearing your results.
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Old 03-08-2012, 06:34 PM   #29
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Everything to know about 2 stroke pipes and tunning

This could be a bit to much info for most, but I thought it was crazy how detailed it was.

http://3cyl.com/mraxl/manuals/chambe...003exhaust.pdf

The reason I was reading is I was debating about using exhaust wrap on the upper part of the pipe where it gets close to the tank and carb. I'm still not sure if I'm going to do it, but I was wanting to reduce some noise and keep the fuel as cool as possible. I understand that the scavenging effect of the pipe works off of sound waves and that wrapping the pipe could effect that. This is the reason for the partial wrap, but if there is a down side other than potential rust I won't do it. I have read very mixed opinions on this and don't have my mind made up. Done anyone have results relating to this?

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Old 03-08-2012, 07:06 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixstringsteve View Post
I totally understand your reasons, I think it's a great project.

I'm 5'6" (28" inseam) and I'm not an expert rider by any means. i enjoy very tight singletrack with switchbacks, steep climbs, rocky trails here in Utah. I'm a 2T guy, and I love the feel of a full-size bike until I dump it on a steep, technical climb. Then I can barely pick it up, and I have a tough time getting my leg over the seat to start it. I realize you don't have any of these problems, but I just wanted to say I totally understand the desire for a little lightweight, flickable bike. If the kx100 had another 4" of wheelbase it'd be the perfect bike for me. Subscribed, and looking forward to your outcome and hearing your results.
Thanks, I do have the hillside pickup problem and it sucks. I have a ton of short super steep rocky climbs and if you don't make it on a full size bike it is all most impossible to get the bike stood up and ride up. You have to drag the bike until the body is above the wheels and stand it up. Screw that. Give me light and fun.
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