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Old 03-11-2012, 05:38 PM   #46
Platypus-3in1
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Thanks ... Crashmaster got me to thinking about it stating "FWIW, I would never consider running a tubeless front on the 990 if you go off the pavement"

And yes that was my thought a fail safe to a major front end impact miles from anywhere ...

"might create chaffing, maybe strange wandering balance issues" ... Good Point!
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:44 PM   #47
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neduro has had a few good discussions about running tire mousse. Not sure of the thread titles, but they would be worth a search if you have a smaller bike that gets dirty.

For our big girls? I don't think mousse would be a good idea. High speed+high weight=destroyed mousse
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:03 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTXT View Post
I'm seriously thinking about it, I ordered a 19/17 wheelset from Woody's yesterday and was planning on doing Cyborg's tubeless sealing method.I sent Woody an e-mail today to find out if he has any knowledge or experience of how the Outex system performs.
Did you ever here back from Woody on this?

Just found this thread researching this system for my R1200R Classic. Very interested - seems like a more elegant solution than the silicone methods.
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:12 PM   #49
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SStewart just put 17 rear/19 front tubless Woody's on Satan's 950.

With the Conti Road Attacks on there you better watch your manners, that thing will hook up on pavement.

I've worked on and ridden that bike, this set up is working out real nice.


I don't know exactly why but these KTM 950's really remind me of my old KZ1000's and KZ1000Z1R's especially.
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:14 PM   #50
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Got a pleasant surprise while changing from the stock Pirelli Scorpions to my new Heidenau K60 Scouts...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=5063
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:14 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by viola-tor View Post
I dunno why one would, as the whole idea of the mousses (meese? ) is that you don't NEED air at all. You could pick up nails, thorns, silverware, or whatever and just keep riding. And if one tried to have a bubble of air around the mousse as you suggest, a sort of fail-safe? Hmmmm, dunno, might create chaffing, maybe strange wandering balance issues...

I've never used mousse before, but from what I've read they might not work too well for the big bikes as they simulate <20 lbs of pressure, and we really need 30 psi to protect our rims. I seem to recall concerns over heat buildup on long highway sections, but don't quote me on that, just remember reading about it somewhere.
I have, besides my F8GS a 450 KTM EXC and on that tried mousse. Works well, feels somehow weird and if correct size is installed simulates a tire pressure of 11 to 13,5 PSI. The idea is not bad, but its just not made for a heavy dual sports. The low "pressure" is nice in the dirt and a PITA on tarmac. The mousse producers say that heat, like it will get on road use destroy the mousse in short time. To install it is a pain too and you need to lube it with a special grease. On Golden Tyre installation guide it says: "when not riding take the mousse out, lube it, put it back in its original box and keep it in a dark and cool location."
I'd say, pure competition stuff...
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Old 03-21-2012, 02:55 AM   #52
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Im running 4 mm Michelin enduro tubes in my 990. Runs upt to 160 kmh with no overheating problems. But they are heavy tubes and expensive and make wheel balancing very difficult. The biggest problem with tubes is that on long trips my tank bag is mostly taken up with tubes (normal ones, HD tubes far too bulky). Then there are the tyre irons with are heavy and bulky. Compare that with plugs and punctures that can be repaired at any petrol station. Do you you really want to sit in 35+C heat changing a tube? Then maybe it doesnt sit right and 5 km down the road get a pinch out puncture and have no second tube?

I sure wish KTM would come up with a tubeless system. Im a bit sceptical at the conversions not based on a whole new tubeless rim. Maybe Im just conservative and old fashioned.
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:41 AM   #53
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Woodys' reply

Here is Woddys' reply to the Outex tubeliss system -

I heard about these guys,,never ever seen one,,,have it on my to do list ,,I'm always looking,,,at creating a better system. Perhaps I'll order a kit and see what it's all about...

I believe that part of this kit in conjunction what i'm already doing may be even better.....will keep ya in th eloop
.

I have a set of 17"/19" wheels that Woody shipped to me two days ago and should be here by the end of the week. I'm still trying to decide if I should try the Outex system or go with Cyborg's method along with Woodys' superglue on the nipples before applying the Seal All and Goop.
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:02 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KradmelderSA View Post
Im running 4 mm Michelin enduro tubes in my 990. Runs upt to 160 kmh with no overheating problems. But they are heavy tubes and expensive and make wheel balancing very difficult. The biggest problem with tubes is that on long trips my tank bag is mostly taken up with tubes (normal ones, HD tubes far too bulky). Then there are the tyre irons with are heavy and bulky. Compare that with plugs and punctures that can be repaired at any petrol station. Do you you really want to sit in 35+C heat changing a tube? Then maybe it doesnt sit right and 5 km down the road get a pinch out puncture and have no second tube?

I sure wish KTM would come up with a tubeless system. Im a bit sceptical at the conversions not based on a whole new tubeless rim. Maybe Im just conservative and old fashioned.
What I would really hate is to damage a true tubeless wheel bad enough to where the bead won't hold. I'll take sweating in the sun for 30 minutes over baking in it all day while I walk out because a wheel failed. Give me tubes any day, and no need for HD ones either.
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Old 03-21-2012, 01:43 PM   #55
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the latest info regarding sealed wheels,,,

Quote:
Originally Posted by JTXT View Post
Here is Woddys' reply to the Outex tubeliss system -

I heard about these guys,,never ever seen one,,,have it on my to do list ,,I'm always looking,,,at creating a better system. Perhaps I'll order a kit and see what it's all about...

I believe that part of this kit in conjunction what i'm already doing may be even better.....will keep ya in th eloop
.

I have a set of 17"/19" wheels that Woody shipped to me two days ago and should be here by the end of the week. I'm still trying to decide if I should try the Outex system or go with Cyborg's method along with Woodys' superglue on the nipples before applying the Seal All and Goop.
so i just returned from a month on the road ,,everything from doing Mulholland drive ,the Rock Store,Topanga Canyon,, dip in the Pacific ,,then Death Valley and ''the Taste of Daka''r with Jimmy Lewis,,eastward to the swamps and Bayous near New Orleans,, and rolled home afte consuming 300lbs of crawfish,,30 cases of beer in 6 hours with my wifes extended family...

so several Outex systems are on their way,,,circa $170ea..,,having watched all the videos and seen a finished one,,i believe that a combination of my current technique...ie using the gap filler Super glue will preclude the Outex from getting overstretched into the crevices especially on wheels that have rather tall nipple heads....

the Buchannan nipples i use all have a lower profile than the heads of KTM ,RAD and Excel alloy nipples...

i'm sure if you all do this yourselves,,,you'll be just fine,,,if we do it ,,,we'll stll need the same prep time,,superglue application time,,,save on the ''goop and silicone application ....[the two least liked steps in our current process]

i figure circa $80 is spent in man hours,,we could knock perhaps $50 off of that... which ends up being $120/wheel versus our $99....

will keep ya posted with the results of our inquiry

woody
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:31 AM   #56
Narsisco Lopez
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This is my tubeless rear wheel...



I didn't even know I had a tubeless rear when I bought my 2009 990 Adv in January... the PO never mentioned it. I only discovered it when swapping the stock Pirelli for my new K60 Scout. I've emailed the PO to find out more details on it... whether he did it or if the dealer or some other third party. I put 500 some-odd miles with no leaks and the new Heidenau is holding pressure just fine. We'll see what the next 1000 miles holds in store...
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Old 04-27-2012, 02:08 AM   #57
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Have taken a few extra steps before installing the Outex kit.
Sanded down the spoke nipples and taken it to the shot blast.
Then filled the divots twice with Seal All. to stop water penetration and further erosion. (should have seen it before shot blast)

On and interesting note, the Japanese instructions mention that the wheel should be wiped down with a strong Alkaline cleaner for prep. Looking around for something suitable in my garage to do the job. Simple Green was the best I could come up with that was alkaline.

Will update what happens when I start to apply that stuff on this weekend.

- Tatsubon
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Old 04-27-2012, 06:43 AM   #58
Narsisco Lopez
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Just an update: While it looks sloppy, my tubeless rear (many thanks to the mystery person who did it... the PO never replied to my questions about who did it and when) is holding solid pressure. I've put 500 miles on my new K60s and haven't had to add any air to the rear. Very happy... so far.
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:43 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ciedema View Post
No safety bead on the front rim would have to rule it out for that end.
What is a safety bead?

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Old 04-28-2012, 05:03 AM   #60
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why the super glue???

Quote:
Originally Posted by cleefurd View Post
Thanks Tatsubon,
Watching your results. I plan to use this system too. Looks better than anything else out there with regards to sealing spokes. The "Seal All" flexible prep work is good to go also. Is that your touch or Outex recommended?? Woody's said he was going to experiment with the Outex and also mentioned smoothing out the nipple head in that area also... but he mentioned super-glue which seems like over-kill. He has lots of experience with spokes so keeping an open mind but hope he tries "Seal All" like you did. Very good stuff.


hi guys,,,we've tried more than a dozen systems,,ha da snag in the OUTEX getting ordered 'twas rectified..
ok

here's the deal,,,

1,,cleanliness is next to godliness

2,,whatever ya do,,you have to give all the sealants time to cure between/before applying second coats or final use

3,, if ya do not follow #1 and #2 you are setting yourself up for trouble down the road
and around the nipple..

4,,Goop is superior to seal all in adhesion and tuffness

5,,what i noticed is that all the techniques push everything down into any place where air can squeeze out of ,,,mainly through the nipple
if you'll notice even on the outex system the mylar plastic is pushed waay down into nipple holes and surrounding nipples..this is of course wher ewe find tiny pin holes developing because the air will find away out,, can promise you that,,,air pressure localized is amazing stuff

6,,need in gto make a living and keeping customers itching to get their wheels back,,i had to find away of balancing the evidence and the time lines

7,,voila,,gap filling super glue with the acclerator,,,so what i needed was a way to create a firm base that would not allow the sealing components [goop/silicone/mylar tape] to be distorted/stretced/pushed into the cavities in and surrounding the nipple....the gap filling liguid flows just right [we used the original regular super glue but it was too thin ,,it would run out everywhere...by carefully filling the spoke area and surronding nipple applying a tiny drop of accelerator,,that area now has a rock solid base[yes you can still twist nipples afterward],

8,,this now gets asolid coat of goop,,,

9,, followed by an outer seal of silicone an dor the outex membrane

10,,so i have concluded the value and validity of the super glue application,,ie time saving and solid foundation element

11,,using the outex or similar outer membrane will be an additional time and weight saving tool/ingredient in a effective ,,,lighter/longer lasting sealing process

that's the latest news from the ol man
woody
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