|03-13-2012, 12:10 AM||#17|
Joined: Feb 2003
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I love seeing riders go through Tunisia.
I live in Carthage just up from the the port at La Goulette.
A few things, Tunisia is a Muslim country, but alcohol is not forbidden. The major chain stores have dedicated alcohol sections and most touristic type hotels and restaurants readily serve alcohol.
I have my 990 Adeventure here in Tunis and generally get out for weekend rides. I've got an assortment of interesting GPS tracks in the north (and south).
If you have a gpx from your trip please pass it along if you don't mind.
Ask for Jenny.
|03-13-2012, 02:10 AM||#18|
Joined: Dec 2008
Good point tokenboy about Alcohol. We didnt know that.
I would like to add another link we listen from Belgacem Bouguenna.
I will try to download gps tracks from my Garmin Quest to mac and somehow post it here.
|03-13-2012, 09:05 AM||#19|
Double Axle Rider
Joined: Oct 2009
So while refuelling empty Tenere, Peter found famous Rommel piste on his Garmin Quest. The turn for that piste is only a minute back from where we were, and than up the hill to the piste!
What a coincidence, we were actually happy I ran out of fuel, otherwise we would miss Rommel piste.
Climbing to the top of the pass of Rommel piste. The road was build in World War and its made of concrete
View opened from the top of the pass, on the flatlands on the other side of the mountain
Somewhere in the middle of descend on the other side, we met a dog in one corner of the road.
Looks like he actually lives here
We didnt have much with us, but Peter and Mitja gave him all their food, and the dog was gratefull.
So if any of you plan driving this road, remember to have some food with you, because you will probably meet this nice dog on the way.
This descent over the concrete road was really scenic, so all off us turned the bikes off, and rode them down the mountain in silence.
Bridge destroyed from floods last year, on the south side of the Rommel piste.
The view is spectacular.
In the back there are mountains where Rommel piste leads.
After that we had one hour of really fast riding over the bumpy track and night was catching us.
So we had to find road fast, before the dark.
GPS showed one road 6 kilometres on the right, so we had to cross desert straight for a few kilometres off road through difficult and soft terrain to make it before dark. Progress was slow and we needed more than 30 minutes.
We made it. We found road just before sunset and there was a small sand storm coming...
Than we only had smooth asphalt for 20 kilometres in the dark to reach Tozeur and find a sleep there.
Day was long and exhausting, but spirits are high!
|03-13-2012, 10:32 AM||#20|
Double Axle Rider
Joined: Oct 2009
You know the drill, use this link for background music while reading further this RR.
That night we slept in Tozeur. It is a nice small town. As ussually (thanks to the Italian team) we managed to find nice cheap hotel for less than 10€ per person, per night with breakfast and garage. We again had a great dinner in one of the restaurants in this town. The dinner was actually the same every evening, there is not much culinary choice around here.
But the food was great!
Lots of salads, tuna fish, olives, spicy sauces, beans broths, and main meal was ussually french fries and mixed grilled meat. For around 5-8 € you also get coca cola, water and tea with all of this. So plenty of everything for not too big price. We were happy.
Looks like Matteo (in the background) likes native girls here :)
After a great sleep in the hotel, plan for the next day was Tozeur-El Hamma-Douz, heading through pistas close to the base of the mountain chain stretching all the way to El Hamma.
Half a day there was mountain chain on our lef side all the way to El Hamma
The road to El Hamma
After a few hours of dusty pista riding and some dangerous parts (hidden damaged parts of the road from water erosion) we needed a break and a snack
So we stop here in the midle of nothing
After a snack, we managed to get a nice short cosy sleep in the desert sun, so it was time to do some more pistas.
Today we wanna get to Douz, to the gate of Sahara and to see some real dunes!
So lets go ,we still have a lot of hours to ride in the dust.
Left of right?
Does no matter as long as we keep away from the asphalt
After we left El Hamma, we passed by school and kids started to throw stones in to us!??
Shit, Peter was hit and his shoulder injured badly. Luckily he did not fell of the bike.
We still do not understand that kind of behaviour, because that happened before once or twice, but we had luck until now.
After a while Peter was in such pain, we needed to stop again and take a rest here
And another stop so Peter used some cooling gel on his shoulder, the one I used every day for my injured ankle.
I was still on painkillers and barely walking. Leg is not heallig well.
After a whole day of dirt riding, we are finally in Douz. We only need to get on another side of the town, where the gates are.
Finally! After a one week of persistance riding, various problems and injuries we reached The gate to Sahara!
It is really just like that, when you enter through this gate, soon real Sahara begins.
We made it!
Just before sunset
Tonight we stay in Douz. Its a nice and easy going town.
Tomorrow is going to be a great day! We are headed to the oasis of Ksar Ghilane, partly throuhg pistas, and partly straight over the dunes!
|03-14-2012, 05:58 AM||#25|
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Niksic - Montenegro
I'm so in :)
Sahara uh.. how lucky you are...
I hope you and Peter are OK now
- Hey people, don't eat yellow snow
-Montenegro ride http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=481614
drmracni screwed with this post 03-14-2012 at 08:46 AM
|03-14-2012, 08:32 AM||#26|
Double Axle Rider
Joined: Oct 2009
Since we rode in dusty conditions almost every day, I had to check air filter.
When I saw quantity of sand inside, I was happy I bought Touratech foam filter and Motul airfilter oil spray.
There was no residues in airbox, so filter was working perfectly.
Riding in even worst conditions next few days, only confirmed that.
I just washed and cleaned the foam, let it dry and re-spray with air filter oil.
Bike ready for some more dust.
We slept in a small hotel in Douz (B&B only 4 €) and bikes were parked inside hotel in the atrium.
Next day was a nice sunny morning
On the main square, there is bazar, people all around, souvenirs, arabian music, tasty menthae tea, realy relaxing morning and great start of the day for me, while other bikers still sleep.
Later other guys are ready to role on.
Our plan for today is Ksar Ghilane, it might be hard for us.
Dont foget we have heavy bikes and 7-10 kilos of luggage each, so soft, dry sand is not ideal terrain for doing manny kilometres...
Ksar Ghilane is oasis around 70 kilometres away from Douz in the desert, but to get there you need to do at least 100 kilometres or more going left and right, to find a ridable path. It can take you whole day to reach Ksar Ghilane.
Because terrain is soft and unpredictable, you need to stand on bike footpegs a lot to have maximum control of the bike. My ankle was in even more pain, so I tryed to give him some extra support with ducttape.
It didnt work.
We soon learned there are different types of dunes while heading to Ksar Ghilane - small ones, rare sand piles, more solid terrain in between, progress can be good...
Than there are more and more soft sand piles
A bit bigger sand piles, less solid terrain in betwen, more dangerous riding, because speed can still be high sometimes and jumps unpredictable, possible flying over the handlebar / possible sinking in soft sand...progress is medium, it is quite exhausting ride.
And there is also Fesh Fesh-really dry and really soft deep sand.
Bike just sinks deep, and if you are too fast, the sudden stop from sinking your front wheel can launch you over the handlebar. Thats what happened to Bor with his green KLR. Digging it out is not so easy.
We found some locals that had a problem. Car has sinked in the soft sand, so we helped them dig out the car.
It is rare too meet anyone around here.
Somewhere in the middle the is Caffe, where traveler can stop, get some shadow, water...
For us it is resting point and tea time, we enjoy.
Further we go in the desert, closer we are to Ksar Ghilane...
Dunes are getting bigger and softer, no hard terrain in between, just dunes dunes ... Bikes need a lot of power to prevent sinking in soft sand, progress is slow, we are tired.
A lot of high revs to make it on the other side...
|03-14-2012, 11:07 AM||#27|
Double Axle Rider
Joined: Oct 2009
We are struggling forward on our way and sand is on some areas really dry, soft and free-flowing.
Best way to help getting each others bike out of deep sand is to pull on front whell, like making it 2-wheel drive
Its already late afternoon and Ksar Ghilane oasis is seen in the distance already, but that means we still have more than half an hour of riding ahead of us.
We made it to the Fort
This is old Roman ruin on a small hill - its 5-6 kilometres away from oasis.
Dunes are bigger, and all around only sand, sand sand, we are struggling to find best way to make from dune to dune, without sinking in the sand.
Before evening we made it to Ksar Ghilane - there is a small pond with hot water - like spa.
What a feeling! We were all in the water imediatelly. Really relaxing after so manny days on the bike
We got these beduin tents for overnight sleep
The evening was easy going
By the fire with manny stories to tell
|03-14-2012, 01:03 PM||#28|
Me gusta la moto
Joined: Jan 2010
please, let the foam keep on coming out of my mouth!!
XT 660 Z ténéré 09 - Manolita Malasaña
|03-14-2012, 01:48 PM||#29|
Deputy Cultural Attaché
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: the 'Ha
I love the story and the photos. Great stuff!
It boggles my mind that the Romans had outposts in the Tunisian desert.
Successfully surviving motorcycling since 1976.
|03-14-2012, 07:20 PM||#30|
Praise San Irritrack
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Yunanistan (Stans baby!)
Green with envy....
Great report, thanx for sharing!!
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