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Old 05-11-2012, 01:19 PM   #256
thump_co OP
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Originally Posted by silverboy View Post
Is this the bike that did Baja 1000 solo? Did it suck in a bunch of sand?
I'm thinking it may have been run hard and put away wet or in this case put away dry....
Yep.. he said it pulled a little dirt past the filter. That's when he (supposedly) sent it to Munn for a go-through.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
Wouldn't that be in the intake stroke?
Yes. Which could be creating a lean mix, right?
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Old 05-11-2012, 01:20 PM   #257
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A leaking head will be apparent because of the compression/combustion cycle. You will see/hear something. The compression stroke has MUCH more psi than the intake does vacuum, so you would be able to identify the leak easily like that. If it's leaking, it is either on the intake side or the crankshaft seal.

What does your exhaust port look like when you pull the pipe?
That is where you want to look on a 2T.

Ride the piss out of it and kill it quick and don't idle around at all. Then pull the pipe and take a look.
We used to pin em in 5th gear and then lock up the rear brake and slide in to the pit to do a jetting check.

Mine seems to be jetted perfect for anything from 4,000' to 12,000' so I really don't do much of this anymore.
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Old 05-11-2012, 01:34 PM   #258
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Originally Posted by Gordy View Post
Mine seems to be jetted perfect for anything from 4,000' to 12,000' so I really don't do much of this anymore.
I could try the pipe test, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for there.

You're running the JD kit right? You recall what jets & needles?

Found another pic I took of the head before I cleaned it up. Would appear I've been leaking in some coolant. This might also explain whey it boils and spews so easy.

Is it possible that I'm looking at this backwards.. maybe it's not an air leak causing it to run hot and boil coolant, but a head-coolant leak that's causing it to boil, run hot and bog out? Anyway that could also cause the goofy idle?

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Old 05-11-2012, 02:08 PM   #259
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Damn dude. That head is giving you problems! I plan on cracking mine open this weekend to fix the flooding damage that I did up in NE. I hope the bottom end didn't get water/mud in it :(
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:21 PM   #260
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To find a head coolant leak that is leaking into the cooling system, you need to find (or make) a radiator cap that you can put a hose onto and then run the hose down into a jug of water.
Then you heat the engine up and watch for bubbles. Some bubbles will come out as it heats up and the air expands, but you are looking for milky non-stop bubbling action.

This is all before you tear it down!

If I were you, I would do as some have advised and lap the head to flat and then put it all back together and try it.

Lots of guys have gotten all messed up by doing too much at once and they don't know what caused what. Just do one thing and then try it, unless you are going to do a re-build.
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:25 PM   #261
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If you are concerned about the head, you could get a new one just to eliminate that possible issue.
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:54 PM   #262
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The uncleaned picture is very revealing, lots of blow-bay into the cooling jacket. It looks to me like the head was over torqued. See the blow-by between the bolts, when they are over torqued, the material gets squished down at the bolt areas and actually causes a slight bowing between the head bolts.

Like Gordy said, a leak at the head is accompanied by a high pressure escape of combustion gasses which are typically burnt (like you're seeing) because just after the plug fires (beginning of the power stroke) chamber pressure skyrockets and is the highest of all the cycles. If there's a leak, it starts at that time. If coolant is being drawn into the combustion chamber the chamber and piston top will appear very clean because it's being steam cleaned every cycle.

Left alone, a head leak can get bad enough to occur at other times in the in/ex cycle but you'll usually hear it during the power stroke. Since the 300 is watercooled, that will equates into an escape of gasses into the cooling jacket = high coolant temps and loss of coolant and additional pressure in the cooling system, the tube trick is a good check.

On alum parts, this can actually wear away the alum causing a slight gap in that area. Lapping the head or replacing it would be a very good idea. An easy way to accomplish this is to get a piece of #600 sandpaper (full sheet) and lay it out on a piece of glass, wet it and gently do figure 8s with even pressure across the head using your hand. It doesn't take much pressure and the 600grit will remove material rather quickly so keep inspecting the area of the leak and stop just after is cleans up. Of course you should put in new o-rings.

This situation is different than an airleak which is an imbalance of air/fuel prior to it entering the combustion area. I'd sort out the head issue, see how it does then chase the airleak if it still appears there is one.

RideFreak screwed with this post 05-11-2012 at 03:00 PM
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:08 PM   #263
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In the last head pic there appears to be some discoloration from combustion leakage past the inner o-ring but not so much past the outer o-ring, Wouldn't this raise coolant temp and pressure ?

As long as you're replacing your studs it'd be a good time to resurface both the head and cylinder and install with new
0-rings. Verycost effective! Good Luck

Edit: RideFreaks good post happened while I was typing but wanted to raise a point.....O-ring manufactures have reference data for the correct depth of machined o -ring grooves to provide proper o -ring compression which is supposed to happen when the head and cylinder touch...metal to metal, don't need much torque beyond that. Good reason to keep surfacing to a minimum on the groove side, just a clean up, easily to see when the low points are gone. Granite surface plates are hard to beat....bought one back in the days when Husky's didn't run head gaskets

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Old 05-11-2012, 06:46 PM   #264
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Seems like more trouble than owning a bloody Norton Mate.
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:43 PM   #265
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I will be taking delivery of a mostly stock 09 xc-w with 17 hours tomorrow. I ordered a slavens jet kit for it since its coming from TX. Is their any must do's on these bikes. First 2t in about 15 years.
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:07 AM   #266
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Seems like more trouble than owning a bloody Norton Mate.
I know where KTM makes all their money - selling spare parts
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:32 AM   #267
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I know where KTM makes all their money - selling spare parts
Actually it's an very low maint bike and pretty durable Thumps experience isn't the norm.
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:37 AM   #268
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Well shite.. I picked up a compression tester this evening.. whopping 90psi. Could this be the head leak, or do I have to pull the jug?
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Old 05-12-2012, 02:45 AM   #269
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That's pretty low, 145 ~ 170 is normal.
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:10 PM   #270
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how did you test it, throttle open/closed, kick start, estart,...etc.
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