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Old 05-06-2012, 04:42 AM   #46
Karbono OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kojack View Post
I think I'm going to pick up a set for my versys using the sw motch high mount light mounts, and retro fit hid in there. Should throw a lot of light then. 55w hid in there should be very bright...

Cool! Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:37 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karbono View Post
Well, Givi "support" seems to suck. No response from them so far.
Givi Brazil was VERY helpful everytime I needed them (they even sent replacement parts with no cost).

Have you tried going straight to Givi in Italy? I did once and the answer was very quick and corteous.
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:38 AM   #48
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That's who I tried contacting. I'll try again...
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:21 AM   #49
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I just noticed that SW Motech has hawk lighting now, and the best part they have an OFF ROAD beam. I think im going to retrofit those instead as they project more long range beam than a fog beam like the givi's..
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Old 05-08-2012, 02:01 AM   #50
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Those look pretty good too. Smaller and as powerfull as the Givi's. Price is about the same here.
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Old 05-19-2012, 05:06 AM   #51
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Here's my installation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBJR...e_gdata_player

What do you think?

B-)
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Old 05-20-2012, 02:51 PM   #52
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Just tested. I'm pretty happy with the result. Turns out the lights' rotation can only be 0 or 180 degrees so that the beam remains horizontal. That messed up my plans to keep the lights inside the giving bars. Now they're in front. The switch is mounted using a temporary solution. I didn't connect the lights to the ignition, so battery depletion is but a click away... I just don't want to mess with the original cabling.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:42 AM   #53
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Alright, 5 months later, I need a light bulb. Does anyone have a clue on how to open this case? I'm about to take a screwdriver and get creative...

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Old 10-04-2012, 05:59 AM   #54
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Surprisingly easy, after all

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Old 10-04-2012, 06:00 AM   #55
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Now I'm stuck here :)

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Old 10-04-2012, 06:43 AM   #56
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Karbono, I already changed both my bulbs. I wanted a whiter light, and changed them to Philips Diamond Vision bulbs (5.000K color temperature). I did the same upgrade to the high and low beam H7 bulbs.

The white lead you see goes straight to the connector that's situated circa 30cm from the bulb (the one you probably shrink-wrapped together with the connector of black lead that runs parallel to the white one). So, detaching the original bulb is easy (apart from having to cut the shrink-wrap open).

The problem I found is that replacement H3 bulbs don't have 30cm leads - more like 1/3 of that. So, when you install the new bulb, it's connector won't get anywhere near the connector of the parallel black lead.

Two options: you can cut the black lead so it matches the lenght of the replacement bulb's lead (bad idea) or you can do what I did: store the black lead's excess inside the housing, so the part of this lead which protudes from the housing matches the lenght of the new bulb's lead. Doing the second way, you'll need a little more lenght from the encapsulated pair of leads that comes from the relay, so you'll have to reposition a zip-tie or too (no big deal).

Sorry if I made it sounds complicated, it's not. If we lived close, I could show you what to do in 30 seconds...
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:25 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by mamm View Post
Karbono, I already changed both my bulbs. I wanted a whiter light, and changed them to Philips Diamond Vision bulbs (5.000K color temperature). I did the same upgrade to the high and low beam H7 bulbs.

The white lead you see goes straight to the connector that's situated circa 30cm from the bulb (the one you probably shrink-wrapped together with the connector of black lead that runs parallel to the white one). So, detaching the original bulb is easy (apart from having to cut the shrink-wrap open).

The problem I found is that replacement H3 bulbs don't have 30cm leads - more like 1/3 of that. So, when you install the new bulb, it's connector won't get anywhere near the connector of the parallel black lead.

Two options: you can cut the black lead so it matches the lenght of the replacement bulb's lead (bad idea) or you can do what I did: store the black lead's excess inside the housing, so the part of this lead which protudes from the housing matches the lenght of the new bulb's lead. Doing the second way, you'll need a little more lenght from the encapsulated pair of leads that comes from the relay, so you'll have to reposition a zip-tie or too (no big deal).

Sorry if I made it sounds complicated, it's not. If we lived close, I could show you what to do in 30 seconds...
...and I thought it was going to be easy...

I just got back from a friend who's a mechanic. You're absolutely right. I didn't look in many places, but the two I went to had never seen such a long wire in an H3 bulb. He cut the white wire so it connects to the new one. Your solution may had been the best option (I confess I didn't understand it), but I trust him with my electric system. :)


Thanks for your input.
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:31 AM   #58
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Well, if it's sorted by a trusted mechanic, great! Aproveite a moto!
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mamm screwed with this post 10-04-2012 at 09:11 AM
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:55 AM   #59
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By the way, I changed bikes last month, and so did the Trekker lights. Out the old 650GS from the pics in the previous pages, in a brand-new 1200GS (cell phone pics in a dark garage, sorry about that):





The switch stays on all the time. I tapped the front position light to drive the relay, so the aux lights go on and off with the bike's ignition.

The Givi topbox also made the bike jump.
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:04 AM   #60
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I just need a tighter sleeve, now...
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