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Old 12-17-2012, 08:26 PM   #136
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Here is the progress:


CT, IAT, MAP, RPM in tune. Wideband o2 comes in the mail tomorrow. Now I need to figure out why the fuel pump is not coming on, and why injectors are not spraying.

Both fuel pump and injectors come on with injector test, so that piece is working!
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Old 12-24-2012, 08:40 AM   #137
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Here is the almost finished product....



I have been driving it around and wow -- its making a huge difference.
The torque, the hp! It feels like there is so much more power in this thing.
It feels like its no longer lugging around; but it is alive! The timing is stock factory; 7.5 BTDC at idle with vacuum hose disconnected. I cant wait to move this to the recommended 28 BTDC @ 3500 RPM. This thing will be a monster!
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Old 12-24-2012, 08:03 PM   #138
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Nice work!
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Old 12-26-2012, 08:14 PM   #139
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Good deal, anxious for the video.
Is that the disconnected fifth injector on the plenum? Guess it isn't needed now....
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:52 PM   #140
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I wanted new High impedance injectors to replace the 30 year old low impedance injectors, and therefore eliminate the resistor pack. The old injectors needed cleaning, so what a hell... i went out and purchased 4 new High impedance injectors used in newer Vanagon. It took my two hours to install them, and re-wire the system... so far so good.. the engine immediately idled and accelerated better, however, my noise problem is back. The HighZ injectors are creating noise issues with my MAP and TPS (No TPS Sensor, Signal->Ground) inputs.. It's making the microsquirt freeze-up.. bummer..
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:12 PM   #141
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Is this thing running and driving for more than a quarter mile ? Havent seen an update for years .
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:16 AM   #142
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I run into a snag with the microsquirt. It first started of as a broken fuel pump, but drilling into the data logs, it soon proved to be a bad resistor on microsquirt. i recieved aswesome support from bruce, who designed and had the boards manufactored, and matt from diyautotune. Been busy with work, so here is belated update..
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:17 AM   #143
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The early Vanagon fuel tank outlet size is 8mm, and the fuel pump inlet is 12mm, while the fuel pump outlet goes back to 8mm.
To make things a bit more complicated, VW used a little plastic pre-filter to convert from 8mm to 12mm. They are easy to find and order, but they are never on hand, at least in my town, at major car parts stores. This is why I completely removed my pre-filter, and went to post fuel pump filter from newer Vanagons.

Another bummer is that designated Vanagon Bosch fuel pumps or aftermarkets run anywhere from $100-160, depending on the retailers.

I am always on a look out for alternatives. I hate being stuck to one product and one vendor. Alternatives are always good.

While you are upgrading your fuel pump, it is time to also switch to more available fuel filters.

Here is the list of parts you will need:

NAPA Fuel Filter 3032 ($3.87) - AVAILABLE AT ANY NAPA STORE, AT ANY TIME (Optional, but recommended. Required if you skip the post filter).
(Alternatives available at any parts store -- Any external fuel filter with 5/16 inch inlet and outlet)

Late Vanagon or Eurovan Fuel Filter 0-450-905-030 ($12.00) - AVAILABLE AT ANY VW DEALER, OR ONLINE (Optional, but recommended. Required if you skip the pre filter).

PERFORMANCE ELECTRIC Part # P37 - Fuel PUMP ($30.89) - AVAILABLE FROM ROCKAUTO - Alternatives: any 8th generation or 9th generation Ford Truck external fuel pump with 5/16 inlet and 5/16 outlet.

10Gauge female SPADE terminal - AVAILABLE EVERYWHERE. The fuel pump requires a bit larger spade terminal.

Optional: 5/16" Fuel T Fitting ($3.00) - AVAILABLE EVERYWHERE, in case you have external heater booster.

Here is how it all looks


Above: Napa 3032 Filter, 5/16" T-Fitting, P37 Fuel pump
Below: My original configuration, goWesty pre-filter elimination de-coupler, stock T-fitting, OE BOSCH pump


Above: Napa 3032 Filter, 5/16" T-Fitting, P37 Fuel pump
Below: My original configuration, goWesty pre-filter elimination de-coupler, stock T-fitting, OE BOSCH pump


Here is how it looks assembled to the frame.

I recommend you put a rubber hose around the fuel pump mounting bracket and the fuel pump.
It's a touch noisier than original BOSCH, but with the rubber spacer, you can't even hear it.

Optional step (not for STOCK L-Jetronic use): if you are running alternative fuel injection computer, and you are using a relay (+12v) to switch the fuel pump, go ahead and ground your fuel pump right to the frame.

ALL-IN-ALL, I am very happy with my setup. Currently I have only put 300 miles through this pump, but overall, it has never let me down.

The total "upgrade" cost me $50.00, and I am very happy knowing I no longer have to depend on very expensive fuel pump, and filters that may not be available at every corner parts store.

In terms of economics, I can replace 5 of these pumps, for the price of OE BOSCH. For $30, I can afford to have a spare.

I will provide updates in the original post, should my opinion change on this setup. Currently, I am loving every minute of it.

Forum moderators, please considering making this post sticky.
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:25 AM   #144
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With new fuel pump my idle improved significantly. The manifold pressure stabilized, and I was no longer getting rolling idle. Great success for $30 fuel pump! I however still faced random and intermittent bucking -- wildcat Vanagon syndrome if you may. While analyzing my data logs I noticed that RPM signal would start to "average", and flat-line until zero... Imagine what happens at 3000RPM when all of a sudden your reported RPM drops to "1000", and stays there for several hundred microseconds, and then goes to 500 RPM, and does the same thing.. The whole van would shake like a mad cow, and would start sputtering, and eventually acting like it would stall... Eventually, I no longer got RPM signal, and the van was stranded at work for 4 days. The funy thing here is that signal would come and go once in a while. Fast-forward to several days, and several emails with Bruce and Matt, and we isolated the problem to R20 resistor on the microsquirt. It does not like very high voltage spikes from coil, and eventually this resisotr burned out:

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Old 05-08-2013, 07:32 AM   #145
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The solution -- The solution was to add 1W 1kOhm resistor inline to the optoisolator, and bypass the R20 using a solder bridge. This thing is crazy small, but lucky i had a very hot soldering iron with a very sharp point... I heated the very small resistor and picked it off the board..



We are back in business, albeit with a bit more noise in the system. I adjusted my noise filters, and the RPM signal is better than it ever was.
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:47 AM   #146
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With strong idle, and working tach, I was finally able to focus on tuning my fuel map and driving the van. One of the hardest things to get right, at least for me, was cold-starts, and strong idle until fully warm, and drivability of turning the key and taking off.. My engine at cold does not like to idle at anything more of 12:1 AFR, once fully warm it can do 14:1 AFR. EZ-PZ.... Got my idle at 12:1 AFR, and after start enrichment close to right, but I still needed to hold the throttle open a bit for couple of seconds.... flexibility and ingenuity to the rescue:

Tonight I am going to experiment building a fast-idle valve using a $15 canister purge solenoid from any older or newer GM vehicles. The part and the pig tail could easily be found at the junk yard on any GM vehicle. Originally I wanted to use GSXR Secondary AIR valve ($7 shipped), but I feared I was not going to be able to find the connector.

The goal of this project is to raise my idle by at least 200-300RPM. I'm shooting for 900RPM hot, and 1200RPM cold (< 100F). My warm-up enrichment ends at 90F.



Oreilly part #: CP561

It also uses the standard GM two-prong connector. More updates tonight with pictures, and hopefully video of solenoid in action.

This could easily be integrated to replace AAR, for you stock guys.

Success.. 200-300RPM

I spent 30 minutes pondering how to mount this. At the end of the day, the best place to mount it was right on the metal fuel line. This thing is great! It works just as intended.
microsquirt has a designated Fast-Idle wire. The solenoid is powered through switched +12v, and is grounded through the microsquirt ECU designated "Fast-Idle" lead. microsquirt is configured to switch on/off the solenoid depending on the temperature of the motor.

Here is how it looks mounted in my van:







The solenoid air outlet is connected to the intake plenum stock AAR location.
The solenoid air inlet is connected to the Ford Taurus intake boot.

Here is a video of me toggling the shut-off temperature demonstrating the workings of the solenoid:



This valve could easily be converted to L-Jetronic system to replace Bosch AAR.
It could be switched manually, or using a thermo switch.

One more video

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Old 06-12-2013, 09:33 AM   #147
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Well guys, my latest 300 mile trip yielded 12mpg. Bad you say? Not bad at all, considering my fuel map was tuned for maximum power. I can't tell you the exact difference between the stock system and L-jet since it would be very subjective, but in my experience, and from my feeling of the throttle, there was quite a bit more power to spare.

The following is my current Fuel VE map tuned for POWER:



With power tune out of the way, I wanted to make a another map which will focus on power, and economy; The difference being I want power where it needs power, and economy when power is no longer needed. Fast forward to today. I am presenting you with my POWER+ECONOMY AFR table which will generate Fuel VE Table. My previous AFR table (dubbed the POWER) was similar, except anywhere you see 15 AFR, 16 AFR, and 17 AFR was set to 13. The fuel map (above) it produced was beautiful with a lot of power, and not a lot of efficiency. Without further ado I present you the POWER+ECONOMY AFR table.



The following table will generate a new Fuel VE map that I will post here and compare it to the top map.
This is just the first iteration of the AFR table, and if you have any suggestions, please feel free to post up.
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Old 06-12-2013, 03:36 PM   #148
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At 12 mpg , you have reached G wagon and Humvee category.
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Old 06-12-2013, 04:04 PM   #149
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I put 30 miles on my new tune, and its already making a difference. I will get up to 20mpg by the time i am done with it. which reminds me, i also need to enable fuel overrun cutoff.. since i like to coast alot.
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:45 PM   #150
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What kind of mpg does one of these get stock?

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