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Old 03-15-2012, 08:57 PM   #46
viola-tor OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alleycatdad View Post
Yes. The computer sets the isc servo at a specfic starting place independent of your cable slack.

Under the TESTS tab, under the test&adjust window, use the "adjust throttle cable" button. This zeros the ISC servo so that you are actually adjusting what you think you are adjusting.

Under "tasks" on the tuneecu site: http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/tasks.html

"Adjusting the throttle cable - only KTM
The idle speed control stepper motor will be completely retracted and the throttle valves completely closed.
Switch the ignition switch off, WITHOUT exiting or disconnecting the software, and adjust the throttle cable clearance."


Hope this helps.

Steve
Okay, I think I got it!


Now for the TPS: What's this about drilling the airbox? Is there a manual element to this adjustment too?
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:36 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viola-tor View Post
Okay, I think I got it!


Now for the TPS: What's this about drilling the airbox? Is there a manual element to this adjustment too?
Yes you need to get to a torx and manually move the tps until you reach the desired value. I'll post a pix when I get home
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:22 PM   #48
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This thread needs more pics!

Crafting my own sparkplug tool. I'd say it came out pretty well for being hand turned on a grinder, eh?




I've had brand new plugs in reserve for at least a couple seasons, but NOOO! Somebody sent me the wrong size! I guess I'll put the stock ones back in, they're still firing away...



This is my airbox set up, in case anyone is interested:




So I guess these are the servos for all this new-fangled F.I. bullarkey.




My throttle cables. Hmmm. They seem fine to me (snug, but still just a bit of slack). I ran the test in TuneECU, switched off the ignition as instructed, and don't see any difference at all in the cable play, then turned it the ignition back on. I dunno... Seems like I opened up the airbox for nuthin. What am I missing here? This is supposed to be easy right?

That little "node" at the bottom is what appears to be stopping the TB movement at full close. Is that correct?




The following two painted screws are NOT in contact with their stopper points at full close. Ought they be?


Front:




Rear:



There's also this blue painted screw which has never been touched:




I turned my upper/front vent nozzles back to their orig. vertical orientation, and the vent hose is now arching up into the fairing, about like so (maybe the elevation of the hose will help discourage actual fluid from escaping?):



Screen shot (yes, FYI it IS actually easier for me to take a phot of the screen then to capture a screen shot. Long story not worth explaining... ):




It looks like the TPS gauge is reading a touch under .7. Okay? And I'm confused about the TPS: The chart says "NO" to KTM TPS reset function. How do you do it? (waiting for bikyoto's pics)


The clock is ticking! Early Sunday morning I ride, a multi-thousand mile trip. It'd be really great if I got upwards of 23 MPG... Tomorrow is mostly shot with work, so I have Saturday to do any ECU bum-foolery and testing.

viola-tor screwed with this post 03-15-2012 at 11:32 PM
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:32 PM   #49
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Do you have a stock (a used one will do for the test) airfilter also? Try to swap the DNA filter with it (if I remember the brand correctly) for a try. Maybe the prefilter + DNA is letting it get too much air - and the ECU compensates this by giving it more fuel?

As for the screenshot:)) well.. it's still better than if you were shooting your screen with a gun
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Old 03-16-2012, 01:29 AM   #50
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the blue paint screw is to synchronize your TBs.

your tps reads 0.67v is it cold or warm? it needs to be at 0.60v warm. it is a BIG difference.

I just got home and wasn't able to put up pictures tonight. will do tomorrow.
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Old 03-16-2012, 07:01 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikyto View Post
the blue paint screw is to synchronize your TBs.

your tps reads 0.67v is it cold or warm? it needs to be at 0.60v warm. it is a BIG difference.

I just got home and wasn't able to put up pictures tonight. will do tomorrow.

That was cold. I'll do a warm test tonight.

What are the commands for TB sync? I don't see it in the list...

Sorry for all the questions! Just when I think I have this bike figured out this whole "project" comes along... Make me feel like tool. Gotta learn sometime!
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Old 03-16-2012, 07:43 AM   #52
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I don't have much to offer above the great advice in this thread Diek.. other than I hope you get it fixed soon.

I have to admit I will feel guilty for a minute... maybe two.... when we have to leave your arse sitting halfway across the Great Divide Basin because you ran out of gas.



No worries though, I promise to mention that you are stranded to the waitress @ the gas station in Boulder Wyoming while we're eating double bacon egg cheeseburgers.

"Could you let your local sheriff know that there's some musician stranded about 100 miles southeast of here in the middle of nowhere playing a Viola?..."
"oh.. don't have a local sheriff? Bummer...".




Just reminding you why it is worth all the frustration brother

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Old 03-16-2012, 08:46 AM   #53
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V,
I can’t help you but I can commiserate with you. I have the TuneECU Cable and the program set up in my lap top, but I haven’t braved the task yet. You are doing a good job and asking questions that I need to know. Keep it going. Your questions are valid and just what I would be asking. Oh’ thanks to all that are assisting you with help.
As you know it sure would be good to have a TuneECU manuel with lots of pics. I'd buy it for sure.
KJ
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:15 AM   #54
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My recollection, from memory, is that you run the "adjust throttle cable" button, turn off the ignition, adjust for correct slack, turn the ignition back on. This will then cycle the ISC and set it so that it idles correctly with the new cable length or some such... I just did it as directed when I needed to adjust the cable after getting the lecture about not adjusting the cable wihtout the computer--I alraeady had TuneEcu, in fact I rationalized buying the cable as being cheaper than one visit to the dealer to do the adjustment with the computer... I didn't think about it much.

As for the TPS, it needs to be calibrated so that it tells the ECU the correct (actual) position of the throttle; this is needed because its a mechanical connection to the handgrip but the only way the ECU knows the throttle setting is through the TPS. Setting it to the correct value--with the ISC calibrated as above--is how that happens.

...or so I understand it--and I could definitely be wrong....it hapens alot since I got married again...

...but if I am, someone will be along to explain it to both of us shortly.

Steve
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:27 AM   #55
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No Steve, you're correct! Well said
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:44 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viola-tor View Post
That was cold. I'll do a warm test tonight.

What are the commands for TB sync? I don't see it in the list...

Sorry for all the questions! Just when I think I have this bike figured out this whole "project" comes along... Make me feel like tool. Gotta learn sometime!
For the TBs, warm the bike up and then go in Tuneecu under the test tab.
You will see cyl1 and cyl2 and they will display values in hpa. At idle, usually around 370hpa (if your idle is set correctly). This is when you'll use the screw with the blue paint.
Now there are two schools of thoughts (are there more?).
1- one that says, synchronize them so they have the same value. You can get within a 3hpa spread of each other
2- the other says, add pressure to cyl1 by about 30hpa since it has to work "harder" for the same revolution.

It seems that most people here go with the first option.
Is that helping ??
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:48 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikyto View Post
For the TBs, warm the bike up and then go in Tuneecu under the test tab.
You will see cyl1 and cyl2 and they will display values in hpa. At idle, usually around 370hpa (if your idle is set correctly). This is when you'll use the screw with the blue paint.
Now there are two schools of thoughts (are there more?).
1- one that says, synchronize them so they have the same value. You can get within a 3hpa spread of each other
2- the other says, add pressure to cyl1 by about 30hpa since it has to work "harder" for the same revolution.

It seems that most people here go with the first option.
Is that helping ??


So I'm supposed to have the bike RUNNING while connected to computer and the airbox open to sync the TBs? I tried this, but get an air-temp sensor error code (if I'm reading it correctly: One long, 3 short?). I assume that will go away when I reconnect the airbox?

Here are the screen shots:

Bike warm, engine OFF:





Bike warm, engine ON:




The TPS looks spot on while the bike is running at 6.0, and 6.1 with engine warm and off.


It looks like my idle is a little high (hpa 370 is "correct?"). How do I adjust that? Do I need to do this BEFORE syncing TBs?
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Old 03-17-2012, 08:13 AM   #58
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The throttle cable slack is checked at the throttle grip, the adjust function in Tune ECU resets the idle stepper motor to the zero position which it may or may not have been in depending on where it was the last time the motor was shut down. Once it is reset back to zero you can turn off the key shut down Tune ECU if you like and adjust the throttle cable using the adjustment on the cables near the throttle grip to the spec listed in your owners manual.
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Old 03-17-2012, 08:46 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viola-tor View Post
So I'm supposed to have the bike RUNNING while connected to computer and the airbox open to sync the TBs? I tried this, but get an air-temp sensor error code (if I'm reading it correctly: One long, 3 short?). I assume that will go away when I reconnect the airbox?

Here are the screen shots:

Bike warm, engine OFF:





Bike warm, engine ON:






The TPS looks spot on while the bike is running at 6.0, and 6.1 with engine warm and off.


It looks like my idle is a little high (hpa 370 is "correct?"). How do I adjust that? Do I need to do this BEFORE syncing TBs?
These are looking pretty good, particularly the TPS voltage. The map is Akro with O2 sensors off, correct? Since you have 2 into 1 with FMF, I would turn the O2 sensors on and do a mileage test.
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:08 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
These are looking pretty good, particularly the TPS voltage. The map is Akro with O2 sensors off, correct? Since you have 2 into 1 with FMF, I would turn the O2 sensors on and do a mileage test.

Thank you Jack,

Yes, I've checked the O2 box and downloaded the map again (computer -> bike). I've also turned the TB sync screw and made the operating cylinder values match (engine running). It was only a small turn, 1/2 turn maybe was enough.

Will button her up and test ride then report back, but I'm skeptical that it will be much better... We'll see!
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