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Old 05-29-2012, 05:35 AM   #16
rocksterboxer
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Pissed

Well, looks like I may have to split my case open as well. Third gear just went on Sunday. I have never spit a case before, but look forward to following this thread for any info and tips. I will be ordering the case splitter from Pro Cycle as well and the rotor puller.

Unbelievable, 2008 with only 11000 kms on it. Bought it when it had 4200kms. Never had a problem. Even went to Cape Breton on it last year. Changed the oil every 3000 kms.
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:08 AM   #17
rch10007 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocksterboxer View Post
Well, looks like I may have to split my case open as well. Third gear just went on Sunday. I have never spit a case before, but look forward to following this thread for any info and tips. I will be ordering the case splitter from Pro Cycle as well and the rotor puller.

Unbelievable, 2008 with only 11000 kms on it. Bought it when it had 4200kms. Never had a problem. Even went to Cape Breton on it last year. Changed the oil every 3000 kms.

It's been awhile but I will update a few things that may help. I don't have any pictures right now...

First, get the service manual. It has the entire procedure, with pictures, and is very easy to follow.
Second, it is much easier to break loose the big nuts if you use the frame of the bike as a second pair of hands. I took the entire motor out and broke it down until I got to the last few bolts, like to the one on the crankshaft. I put the cases back into the bike and then used a long pipe as an extension to break them loose.
Third, try to find the correct tools for the job. I'm sure you can manage, like the guy splitting the cases above in the video, but screw that. I bought all the correct tools and it took about 15 secs to split the cases when I got all the bolts off.

Right now, I have everything broken down and have been inspecting the parts for wear to determine what to replace. The output shaft bearing is the only thing damaged so far - the cause of the rebuild. However, I now believe that this motor has been into before. The 3rd gear looks to have been replaced. It is different than the rest. My assumption is that whoever replaced it damaged the bearing upon rebuild and that lead to its failure.

Plan on this to take weeks! Unless you can get parts down the street, you'll have to order them in. I would suggest waiting to buy until AFTER you break the motor down and look around. You may have to buy an entire new motor and if you go buying parts now, you'll have wasted your money.

My plans at this point: continue cleaning and spec'ing all the parts and then ordering what I need to rebuild. I'm not in any hurry and I'm still recovering from a couple of surgeries all while babysitting 2 kids under 2yrs old, so things happen slowly for me. Eventually, I will finish this thread with pics, but in the meantime, this is what I got.
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:42 AM   #18
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:32 AM   #19
rocksterboxer
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Thanks for the update RCH, I'll have to take the engine out and take it apart. I do plan to order the tools and order parts only after I have had a look. I am also keeping and eye out for new motor, just in case.
I'll keep you posted on my developments as well.
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:20 AM   #20
rocksterboxer
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Tools needed

I have ordered the case splitter and Fly wheel puller from Procycle. Do you guys think that I would need other tools such as: Clutch holding tool and gear puller for transmission .

I wish there was a list of tools needed by those that have done this. Replacing the gears sort of worry me a little.

I read somewhere that the new gears have have to be pressed back in. I also read that gears can be heated in the oven and others placed in the freezer to make them fit.
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:43 AM   #21
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocksterboxer View Post
I have ordered the case splitter and Fly wheel puller from Procycle. Do you guys think that I would need other tools such as: Clutch holding tool and gear puller for transmission .

I wish there was a list of tools needed by those that have done this. Replacing the gears sort of worry me a little.

I read somewhere that the new gears have have to be pressed back in. I also read that gears can be heated in the oven and others placed in the freezer to make them fit.
Don't forget a dished 36 mm ring spanner to go with the puller.
EBC do a clutch holding tool for $20 (eBay)
2nd drive gear needs to be removed to get to 3rd but am going to go the hydraulic press route.

http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...eneral/DRgear/

Ideally you need the con rod locking tool also.
I had no problem splitting the cases without the case tool personally.
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:33 AM   #22
rch10007 OP
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I have the following:

clutch holding tool - motion pro
conrod tool - oem suzuki (ebay from Israel)
blind bearing puller
36mm wrench from northern freight
case separator
socket for the crankshaft...(forgot the technical name)
gear puller

I think that's all the "special" tools I used. I'm sure other folks may find them unnecessary but I can tell you that having the right tool makes things so easy and you're less likely to screw something else up...

I got my DR for a screaming deal so I used that as an excuse to purchase more tools... When it's all said and done, I will have a fresh motor with all new bearings (which I ordered Friday) and still have less in the bike, with these new tools, than you can buy a comparable DR for.

I hope you have good luck finding the tools. I am in no hurry so I set up alerts on ebay and craigslist to tell me when someone posted one of the tools for cheap... When they did, I bought them.
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Old 06-17-2012, 03:14 PM   #23
ADV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rch10007 View Post
conrod tool - oem suzuki (ebay from Israel)
.
I got that tool from the exact same eBayer.

shira1171

fwiw for folk who are looking still.
The EBC clutch tools are made to suit each bike model.

worldwide_motorcycle_equipment

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Old 07-03-2012, 08:20 PM   #24
rocksterboxer
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Finally took the top end off. This is what I found:


The cylinder lwas spared but so far con rod and piston are not looking good. Waiting for puller and splitter to know more. What a bitch to get the cam sprocket and chain off with a seized engine.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:46 AM   #25
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I have read through and I am curious as to how its coming or how it's running....

Any updates?

Thanks.....
-Rhyno
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Old 11-08-2012, 07:58 AM   #26
rch10007 OP
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Got it back together, rode the shit out of it for a few thousand miles and sold it for another project... The motors are reliable as hell if someone puts them together the right way.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:34 AM   #27
Rhyno
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Originally Posted by rch10007 View Post
Got it back together, rode the shit out of it for a few thousand miles and sold it for another project... The motors are reliable as hell if someone puts them together the right way.
Thanks for getting back to my question.....

Are there any lessons learned? Maybe something that you would've done different? Parts or Parts Suppliers?....Machining and Balancing?....

Thanks.....Rhyno
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But, if I "all of a sudden disappear.... ...." hopefully I didn't suffer too much....
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:52 AM   #28
rch10007 OP
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A few things I learned, or was told. Not saying this shit is true, just what I was told:

Never put bearings in a freezer.
I used an old space heater and laid the cases on top (bearings facing down) and let them warm up until the bearings just fell out. Easiest way ever to remove the bearings.
Same for putting the bearings back in...warm up the cases and the bearings drop right in.
Clean and organize EVERYTHING before even thinking about starting the rebuild. If you have everyf*n thing lined up according to the manual BEFORE assembly, it goes like a hot knife thru butta!
Get a manual--or print one out...
A helping hand helps.
After completed assembly of the entire bike, take the rest of the day and don't come back to it until the following day and recheck everything. Then, start your break in process.
I started the motor, let it idle high for about 2 mins, then shut off and let completely cool. Then 5mins, then 10 mins, then 20mins. After cooling from the 20min run, I suited up and rode that bitch like I stole it. After a couple of hours of flogging, I changed the oil, checked everything again and let her rest. Next day, check everything for any leaks or whatever is out of the ordinary and then run a compression test. All was perfect, so another test ride and come home, washed her up and put her in her place.

[/story]
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:12 PM   #29
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Thanks......
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But, if I "all of a sudden disappear.... ...." hopefully I didn't suffer too much....
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