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Old 05-19-2012, 10:49 PM   #46
RonS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot View Post
As an update the timing was wacky and I think it must have had a bunch of carbon build-up from the older old owner driving slowly. I set the timing (bolt holding the dist. was loose and it was flopping around) and it ran out to 4,500rpm (spec is 4,600-5000) in smoothish water and saw about 40mph. Ran it again in some big (for my boat) waves, bounced around a bit and bounced off the limiter a few times. Last time out it ran out to around 4,700-4,750 and 45-46mph which I think is probably just about right given the size/weight/power/prop combo. This was in about 2' chop. Still idles a bit high (1k rpm hot), but otherwise runs absolutely wonderfully. All the little stuff is coming along nicely and overall super happy with it and enjoying playing in the water.

Blues, lots of folks in my 'hood have a lift for a mid-sized power boat, a slip for a big boat (usually sail) and a little lift for a jet ski. I haven't seen many folks with two power boats unless one's really big and the other really small. No reason you couldn't go that route though. Eventually I'd like a big sail boat to go with the powerboat. Very happy with this powerboat, just about the right size for me, though I can't say I'd turn down a more off-shore oriented boat if one showed up on my lift:) I have had a couple of weekends where the water was too rough for my 27.5' boat.
Very cool to hear that its running so well. Idle should be easy to adjust and if you get it down to about 750 it should be about right. Im not sure how to do it on that boat though. Youll have to dig into the carb doc. The other thing is that running over 4500 rpm might be an indicator that you are just a bit under propped. If you are water skiing and looking to get out of the hole fast then it might be just right. If youre cruising then you could get a little more top end speed with a higher pitch prop. The thing about that boat is that the fiberglass layup jobs on those Cobalts are so well done that boat will look just as nice in twenty years if you take some reasonable care with it. Of course everything else will have been replaced once or twice but that's the joy of boat ownership. I'm a big believer in buying quality builds. Congrats!
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Old 05-19-2012, 10:51 PM   #47
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Nice looking cobalt, and neighborhood!

Show us some action pics.
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Old 05-20-2012, 04:26 AM   #48
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Wild stuff Bronco!

Ron, this particular motor is a little different than most marine 454s and spec'd to go up to 5k rpm (and limiter is at 5,250 IIRC), so I think it's all good. It's the performance version of the 454 with forged pistons, crank, rods, etc. and made to spin up faster than the standard 454. 4,600 is the minimum max rpm for it. I'm going to need to get into the boat's computer to see what's up with the idle. The Merc manual simply says it's controlled by the computer, set at the factory and non-adjustable. It's also supposed to be 650-750rpm, so something's not quite right. It has an idle air control motor like a car and the throttles close all the way at idle so the computer has complete control over what goes on at idle, or is supposed to anyway. A vacuum leak or an IAC motor that can't close all the way are my two guesses right now.

It does seem especially well-made. I looked at several early-2000 model boats with 1/4th the hours that hadn't weathered nearly as well. It is also solid as can be on the water and just crushes chop and waves of any reasonable size. Even when I went out in really rough water (4'-5 chop at least I'd guess) it felt solid and strong, just was way too much work to keep the bow from stuffing and the prop in the water

Today I'm replacing a through-hull fitting for the sink discharge (barb on the old one was broken and the sink was just dumping into the interior of the boat) and working on getting rubber pads of the gas tank back into place. Over the years they've wiggled out from where they belong (they are supposed to protect the tank from the aluminum brackets that hold it in place and are about 2/3rds out of place now).

Anyone have a canvas maker recommendation? I want to get a custom cover for the boat to protect it a bit when not in use. The canvas I have now doesn't cover the whole boat and is shrunk enough that I can't get all the snaps done.
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Old 05-20-2012, 07:10 AM   #49
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My Chaparral cover is the same way. Mine is an 06 and the cover over time has shrunk. I keep mine in a covered dock so I don't really worry about it, at least for now. I am a member on http://www.iboats.com/, and there are a lot of knowledgeable people on that sight. You might want to search for a boat manufacturer specific forum as well. There are a lot of people who make after market covers. I believe there is one on ebay that makes really nice covers. Though I have not purchased a new one yet, it is on my list of things to have before this winter when I pull mine to winterize it.

I was out on mine yesterday, it was the perfect day for it.

Here is a pic of mine.

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Old 05-20-2012, 07:18 AM   #50
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Btw, my next boat will be a Cobalt. I am lusting after the new Cobalt A28.
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:05 AM   #51
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Your fast idle is very likely your IAC. they tend to go bad every 5-6 years in a marine environment. Fortunately, this is one of the items you can source from any auto parts store for @ $60. Just replace it.
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:09 AM   #52
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Nice setup. I'd love to have a cover over my lift, but since I just moved here and am renting it'll be a bit before i build my own lift/dock the way I want.

The A28 is a mighty fine looking boat It looks to be about the same size as my old 272 (the previous 272 was 27'6", not including the swim platform), but definitely has a nicer layout. I wouldn't go any larger on a single engine. If you get it, go for the 430hp Merc, you'll appreciate the extra power over the 380. Mine's 385 and 500lbs lighter. It goes ok, but more power would never be a bad thing Also the faster merc should have stronger pistons, crank, etc., so would hold up to say a whipple charger a bit better You might even look at whatever the smallest model is with twin engines, I think on the 296 you can have a pair of 430hp motors

I would really like to setup mine so that the anchor is fixed to the front of the boat like the A28, trying to work that out now. As it is, it has a handy anchor locker, but no roller and the locker opening is too small for the anchor I'd like to use (FX-23). I'd love a setup where the anchor sticks out the front and the rope/chain is stored in the locker.

Thanks Bun, will try to test the IAC.
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:30 AM   #53
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Yeah the windlass anchors are the cats meow. It will be at least 5 years before I buy another boat, this one is suiting me fine for now, but the A28 is just such a nice boat, with the price tag to match.

Here is a straight up cover, not the snap type. Reasonably priced.

http://www.boatcoversdirect.com/prod...ALT_122/_3534/

I plan on buying something like this for mine in the winter.
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:16 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot View Post
Ron, this particular motor is a little different than most marine 454s and spec'd to go up to 5k rpm (and limiter is at 5,250 IIRC), so I think it's all good. It's the performance version of the 454 with forged pistons, crank, rods, etc. and made to spin up faster than the standard 454. 4,600 is the minimum max rpm for it. I'm going to need to get into the boat's computer to see what's up with the idle. The Merc manual simply says it's controlled by the computer, set at the factory and non-adjustable. It's also supposed to be 650-750rpm, so something's not quite right. It has an idle air control motor like a car and the throttles close all the way at idle so the computer has complete control over what goes on at idle, or is supposed to anyway. A vacuum leak or an IAC motor that can't close all the way are my two guesses right now.
Didn't know that those motors ran that high of an rpm. Sounds like you've got it almost dialed in.
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Old 05-20-2012, 02:40 PM   #55
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There might be a way to set base timing that you can do. If you can access a shop manual, see if there's a way to disconnect the spark signal wire from the ECU to the distributor. That will eliminate the ECU controlled advance while base timing is being set. Some engines have a small plug in the harness that can be removed.

+1 on the idle air bypass unit. It's probably stuck open too far.
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:37 PM   #56
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Thanks, I got base timing set. Found out that you can jumper two pins of a certain connector to put the ECM into base timing mode. Worked a treat.
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Old 05-21-2012, 04:03 PM   #57
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She's a beaut! Congrats.

That's a long list of "little things"

Good luck and hope your wallet is fatter than mine...
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:10 AM   #58
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I've had a 1989 25' Boston Whaler Revenge for 22 years and the best description I've heard about owning a boat goes like this:

"Go stand in the shower with your clothes on, turn the cold water on full blast and start ripping up fifty dollar bills."

The only caveat is that at todays prices its easily hundred dollar bills you should be ripping up.

I love it and have absolutely no regrets. Some of the best times in my life have been on the water.



Cheers.
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:43 AM   #59
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Cool, that whaler looks ready for some serious weather. We had a great time yesterday with a bunch of friends on a sand bar/island and boat did pretty well. With 7 people on board (and 2 big coolers, tubes,food, etc.) it still got up on plane and scooted along ok, not quite as fast as I'd have liked but not bad. About 40mph and 4,200rpm so loaded and in probably 2' chop. I did find that if I put the throttle all the way down fairly quickly from a stop it'd sometimes cavitate. Had to feed it in a bit more gradually with that much weight.

I decided my anchors were a little wimpy and today procured a fortress FX-23 with 20' of SS chain and 150' of rope. I figure I'll use that for the main anchor and use my old main for the back anchor.

I'd love to figure a way to mount some sort of anchor roller/bracket so that the anchor can ride sticking out in the front of the boat and I don't have to stow it. The anchor probably won't fit in the anchor locker anyway (it'll go in the massive ski locker though). Not sure how to do that on a bow rider, esp with the way the nose of the boat is beveled. Maybe some sort of bracket that could mount where the bow cleat is? Any ideas?
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:44 PM   #60
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Decided the 500gph bilge pump was too wimpy so bought 2x 2000 gph pumps along with solid state switches to trigger them. Any advice/best practices for routing bilge pump hoses? I figure I'll put the through-hull about the same distance above the water line as the OEM outlet, but should the bilge hose be routed up so that it then goes down to the through-hull?

Any advice as to how the wiring circuits should be configured? Currently the 500gph bilge pump, which is aftermarket and crimped into the OEM circuit (poorly--I'll be cleaning that up) is tied to a float switch and a switch on the dash. Either will turn the pump on regardless of what position the battery switch is in. This seems a good thing to me.

For the two additional switches I was thinking about running the power and grounds direct to the batteries (it has 2 batteries, so I could do one pump off each battery) so that they are completely redundant. I'd kinda like a manual switch to turn them on just in case I want to flip them on. Maybe a second bilge pump switch, tied to a third power supply with a big diode to prevent backfeeding? I'm thinking backfeeding could be large current if one battery is lower than the other and the battery switch is such that it allows one battery to charge the other.
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Summer 2009 Ride Report http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...1509c&t=507038
Summer 2008 RR. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367703
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