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Old 04-01-2012, 04:33 PM   #31
Biebs OP
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Location: Cave Creek AZ
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Wicked picture size

OK I resized the pictures figured it out. Now you can see the rust on the sidecar frame and the 6 years plus of dirt under the wind screen.

I have sanded and painted the frame - removed wind screen getting tub ready for paint.

Ordered a new tire 3.00 X 18 Micheln Mo-ped tire. $ 25.99 plus 6.99 shipping $32 delivered to my house.

Waiting on parts -

MotoJ - want to hear about your weekend - Sucess on firing that Russian Iron???
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:59 AM   #32
MotoJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biebs View Post
OK I resized the pictures figured it out. Now you can see the rust on the sidecar frame and the 6 years plus of dirt under the wind screen.

I have sanded and painted the frame - removed wind screen getting tub ready for paint.

Ordered a new tire 3.00 X 18 Micheln Mo-ped tire. $ 25.99 plus 6.99 shipping $32 delivered to my house.

Waiting on parts -

MotoJ - want to hear about your weekend - Sucess on firing that Russian Iron???
Nope. Motor and transmission in the frame, though. Rusty exhaust cleaned up and painted.
Had to switch out the outer clutch plate and screws because it was skimming the one high point on the gearbox face that I didn't measure, apparently. I had it all together and the kicker wouldn't work. All fixed now.
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:54 AM   #33
val. h.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoJ View Post
"Should I be worrying now that the hack is likely to seperate from the bike at any moment?"


Probably not, but you might want to keep an eye out for metal fatigue and cracks. I have seen two airhead sidecar tugs with cracks at the headstock gussets and also one downtube that had begun being sawed in half by a muffler clamp the guy was using as a mount clamp.

Jay at DMC and Claude at AS have both posted horror stories about failed frames, and there's one thread with a heated debate regarding an R90 rig and subframe vs. no-subframe.

As it was explained to me, the purpose of a subframe is to distribute and alleviate direct stress on the bike's own frame, and also to stiffen the bike frame against twisting. They didn't call them Rubber Cows for nothing. I'd say if you want to jack up your car and put it through really strenuous riding it's worth serious thought about using a subframe.

Thanks for your thoughts. I'll have a really good look at it, to see if there's any issues. I seem to be doing more thinking about issues and cures than I do about actually doing ant mods just now.


Val.
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Old 04-07-2012, 04:44 PM   #34
Biebs OP
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Wicked Update on HACK

ok picture of the frame - shock cleaned remounted, swing arm bearing cleaned and repacked, New tire 3 x18 Michelle Gazelle for a moped $25 plus $6 shipping $31 total for tire. Installed new wheel bearing in wheel.




Car cleaned and painted:






Have to give credit to the guys who photo and post full images of all phases of a rebuild it is a PIA>

+Ok waiting on subframe for R75/ 6 airhead:




Riding MY R100GS today blowing oil out the top breather all over my back tire thought I had overfilled was ok seems I need a top end rebuild bike has about 50K miles. Removed right side vale cover and have a brown burnspot just to the left of the exhaust valve, also when started with valve cover removed get a puff of air on each cylinder compression. OHBOY!!!

Biebs screwed with this post 04-07-2012 at 09:12 PM
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:48 PM   #35
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Laugh Sidecar mounted

Sidecar is mounted and aligned have 1/8 inch toe in. I am running 17 inches of lead bike rear axle to sidecar axle.

The way the mounts are that is where it has to sit. Rode it around unloaded and way to light car will fly if you glance right.

Loaded car frame up with 40 lb weight vest and much better. Low speed front end wobble have ordered steering dampener from 1973 Volkswagon Beetle. Rig is very ridable doing my neighborhood rounds taking it easy have up to 40 mph.

Feels good here are picture of mount -

Front subframe DMC unit. - used from BMWIR website.

I have the rear DMC subframe will fit an R65 or /5 will be in the flea market soon.

Rear mounts upper is a Motovation frame mount very nice unit. Lower is what I got with car and off of passanger foot peg mount.


Plan to put the tub on tommorrow




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Old 04-20-2012, 08:30 AM   #36
jaydmc
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A couple of things I noticed about this, Your upper rear clamp is a Motovation clamp, these clamps are known to damage frames as they have very little contact area and your BMW frame the tubing is much thinner then most other bikes. Years ago we had to pull an engine our of an /6 so that we could repair the frame that was damaged due to the sidecar being mounted entirly with these frame clamps.
The lower rear mount is quite a bit higher then the lower front mount. This causes and issue when you align the sidecar. Once you set toe, when you then set lean out it changes the toe setting quite a bit. When it comes time to fine tune the alignment if you are having a pull to the right you would normaly lean the bike out a bit more however with the lower rear mount higher then the lower front mount when you lean the bike out you also toe the sidecar out more causing a pull to the right.
Also your upper and lower rear mounts are fairly close together, it would be much better if they were further apart.
I see you have our front sub frame on this bike, our rear sub frame for this bike attaches just ahead of the right upper shock mount. It then follows the seat sub frame down and attaches near where your lower rear mount is attached. From there it goes around the out side of your muffler, under the bike and attaches to the left side of the bike near the swing arm pivot. This allows us to tie both lower mounts together, moves the upper rear aft more and puts the lower rear down to about the same level as the lower front.
Jay G
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:05 AM   #37
MotoJ
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17 inches seems like a lot of lead on a bike with a 56 inch +/- wheelbase. Can the car be adjusted front to back?
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:17 AM   #38
NitroMax
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Mine is 25 cm so about 10 inch.

Talking about wheel lead of course
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1300cc 217Nm/207Hp NOS-injected VMax (1985)
500 cc 1950 BSA chopper (1983)
750 cc CB750 chopper ( 1990)
1200 cc Z1000 dragbike (1976)
300 cc MZ transporthack (1989) winterhack
900 cc BMW R 90/6 hack ( 1976) summerhack
750 cc BMW K 75 RT ( 1993 ) daily driver

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Old 04-20-2012, 02:51 PM   #39
Biebs OP
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Laugh Finished for now

Thanks for the input -Jay, MotoJ

I have your DMC rear subframe mount but it is for a R65 or /5 does not work on my /6. Would have liked to use it.
Thanks for noticing the rear mount hieght and pointing out the adjustment issues this may / will cause.


MotoJ - yes lead is up there at 17 inches The BMW cylinder sticks out and will not allow me to move frame back without modifying front upper mount.

Good news I rode 40 t0 50 miles today and handles well the way it is setup. Streering Head shake at lower speeds - have steering damper coming next week.


Overall very happy with current setup I have 40 lbs of weight in car to keep it from flying to easy. Also loaded a 40 lb bag of water softner salt total of 80lbs in car and handled well. I do not plan on having a 200lb passenger in there - dog, and generl supplies only. Different riding experience totally sensitive to road crown or at least I notice the crown in the road.

Just need to do some wiring for lights and enjoy / experience before I do any updates.

I know sidecars have been around since the 1930's I am sure that my current setup is safe and feel comfortable as setup.

The Motovation rear mount is a very nice unit and I feel will serve me well considering I do not plan on loading or overloading this unit. I have read other threads where a total rig weighted 1300lbs and 220lbs were on the sidecar wheel.
I have put my sidecar wheel on the bathroom scale and the weight is 80lbs that is with 40 lbs of balast.
I built this unit with these limits in mind and very happy with the outcome.

Now budget wise I am also very comfortable with the amount this buildup has cost me and plan to enjoy!!!


Also Steering Damper is needed on this rig. I hear some guys voicing the opinion that a streering damper should not or is not need on a sidecar rig. Yes this is true if 1. your have square car tires 2.leading link front suspension designed with sider car setup 3. Deep pockets $$$

The steering damper with mask the slight head shake I get at slow speeds or when flying the chair!!!













Biebs screwed with this post 04-20-2012 at 04:24 PM
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Old 04-20-2012, 03:27 PM   #40
jaydmc
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If you reduce your wheel lead it will help with the head shake. To reduce wheel lead you will need to modify the part coming out of the sidecar frame for the lower front mount.
Often we find that you end up needing a damper on these bikes. A flat profile tire will help in the front, Avon makes the sidecar triple duty in a 350 19
We make a damper for this bike that uses a VW type damper, it bolts to the fender pick up points on the fork and then for the sidecar end you must weld a tab to the upper front strut.
Jay G
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www.dmcsidecars.com
866-638-1793
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Old 04-21-2012, 01:20 AM   #41
NitroMax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydmc View Post
We make a damper for this bike that uses a VW type damper, it bolts to the fender pick up points on the fork and then for the sidecar end you must weld a tab to the upper front strut.
Jay G
DMC sidecars
www.dmcsidecars.com
866-638-1793
Like so:



Bigger pic

Clamp on front strut was for trying out, now there's a tab welded to the strut
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1300cc 217Nm/207Hp NOS-injected VMax (1985)
500 cc 1950 BSA chopper (1983)
750 cc CB750 chopper ( 1990)
1200 cc Z1000 dragbike (1976)
300 cc MZ transporthack (1989) winterhack
900 cc BMW R 90/6 hack ( 1976) summerhack
750 cc BMW K 75 RT ( 1993 ) daily driver

Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don't mind, it doesn't matter ( Mark Twain )
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Old 04-21-2012, 03:08 AM   #42
Voltaire
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I had ( now in bits) an R75/5 with a Watsonian GP fitted in the early 90's toured around Europe,loaded and with a passenger, took it back to NZ and did around 20 000 kms with the chair...until my mate ran it off the road and bent the forks....
Had it all checked out on an alignment machine and it was fine.....I had read that BMW did not approve of sidecars on the /5 but was unaware of the subframe requirement.....
I found the R50 final drive was good on the 750.
I also found riding a RHD sidecar on the right in Europe was hard work as the toe in was was set for England.
Years later I had a LHD Chinese R71 copy and while fun it was pretty slow.
I still have the GP sidecar and one day would like to fit it to another bike....one day.
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:25 PM   #43
Biebs OP
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Laugh streeing damper

OK installed a 1973 Volkwagon bettle streering damper. This is great!!! Like a different setup!!!




.


Here is a picture of complete unit with windscreen:





Put over 100 miles on it and very happy with handling. First 50 miles without a streering damper.



Ok so last night went to GOAZ Motorcycles they carry all brands even URAL rode a 2012 URAL boy I am happy with my BMW. Ural had easy clutch but Clunky shifting 240 miles on unit so not broken in but it was different. 4 piston front Brembo brake would lock up the front wheel, they had the sidecarbrake to tight when you hit the rear brake sidecar would pull hard right. Plus $13K - I am one happy camper!!!
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Old 04-29-2012, 04:50 AM   #44
NitroMax
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Nice bracket for the damper on the forkleg. Where'd you get that ?

Combo looks great
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1300cc 217Nm/207Hp NOS-injected VMax (1985)
500 cc 1950 BSA chopper (1983)
750 cc CB750 chopper ( 1990)
1200 cc Z1000 dragbike (1976)
300 cc MZ transporthack (1989) winterhack
900 cc BMW R 90/6 hack ( 1976) summerhack
750 cc BMW K 75 RT ( 1993 ) daily driver

Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don't mind, it doesn't matter ( Mark Twain )
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:42 AM   #45
Biebs OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroMax View Post
Nice bracket for the damper on the forkleg. Where'd you get that ?

Combo looks great

That is a PRO-TEK fork clamp sold in different sizes that is a 46mm size.

http://motorcycle.motorcycle-superst...earch#w=196756

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