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Old 04-01-2012, 05:52 AM   #31
tbounds OP
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does that mean something happened after 150,000km? Or does it still run with no problems and you have 150k on bike now?
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:00 AM   #32
Biebs
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Question

What are the chances this has been in the oil pan since it left the factory?? First time oil pan was off??


What does oil filter look like?? Are you having problems??
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:05 AM   #33
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I am having no problems and the oil filter was fine , i don't know if the oil pan has ever been off , the gasket was a bit brittle taking off making me think it has been on for a while .
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:17 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbounds View Post
does that mean something happened after 150,000km? Or does it still run with no problems and you have 150k on bike now?
Around 140kkm my oil-pressure started to drop slowly (there is a gauge on the bike). At 150kkm I checked the engine and found:
-The crank was miscolored
-The rods were miscolored (bearings were not to bad)

I thought I had a lubrication-problem and found:
-Cannister for oilfilter had moved
-Play in front bearing, it was out of position
-Worn house for oilpump

So basically I had several lubrication-problems.

The stupid thing is that one week after I bought the bike (new) the sump-gasket started to leak. I decided to change the gasket and found the pin in the sump. This was my first airhead and I had no idea where the pin should be so I tossed it away. Later I heard about problems with the pin but since my engine had been running great for a long time I thought my pin was for something else.
If I had found a pin in my sump today I would have fixed it at once.
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:26 AM   #35
tbounds OP
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ugh guess i will have to bite the bullet and find someone with more skills at this than me


hey hardwaregrrl what you think the computer idoit finally figured it out i am sure there is an easier way ,but at least i got a picture . thanks again for your help
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:27 AM   #36
Bill Harris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWrench
It's one of those fiddly repairs...
True, that.

But still a PITA to do-- but with the crank sprocket pulled your're about as close it to as you'll normally get. I know you can't see it with the bearing cap in place, but is there enough clearance inside to use a borescope through the left cylinder case opening? All you'd need is a quick peek to see if it's "still peened after all these years"...

Quote:
Originally Posted by "
I haven't used the pin to locate the front main in years. I use a 5mm socket-head bolt, grinding it square...
Ah, good. I've never seen/heard that done, but have considered it for years.
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:44 AM   #37
Renner
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looking through the parts fiche,
it appears BMW changed the pin after the /7 series. early pins = longer and tangential to the bearing, later = shorter and perpendicular.
is this correct?

airheads up to & including /7 (item 6)



post /7 (item 5)



looking for a sort of design timeline. any known failures before 1980?
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:06 AM   #38
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The diagram has been drawn to make the parts easier to see. #2 is the locking pin. #5 is the pivot for the timing chain tensioner. The angle and location of the pin has not changed.

I have seen the "found" pins only in late model bikes-from memory 1991 on. Coincidentally, that was just after the destruction of The Berlin Wall. I saw a lot of Q.C. problems about then. I asked a BMNA rep if they had East Germans working at BMW, and he quickly said "No". After a moment, I said, "Oh! There are no East Germans anymore, are there?". He simply pointed his finger at me and nodded.
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:18 AM   #39
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^^

thanks for the clarification and insight.

cost of poor quality
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:22 AM   #40
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Try changing the size under "share". It will be under the html code which is the last choice when you click on share. It may be your phone setting taking the tiny pictures. I'm sorry about your pin woes.

I wonder if some sick German ever chucked that pin in the pan as a joke?!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbounds View Post
ugh guess i will have to bite the bullet and find someone with more skills at this than me


hey hardwaregrrl what you think the computer idoit finally figured it out i am sure there is an easier way ,but at least i got a picture . thanks again for your help
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:28 AM   #41
tbounds OP
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anyone know a good wrench close to Ms. Does anyone have any idea of the cost involved in having problem fixed by a good wrench ?If i am at this point should i have the entire lower pulled down and replace seals /bearings in cranks and cam?
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:02 AM   #42
disston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renner View Post
looking through the parts fiche,
It is dangerous to make too much out of the pictures in the parts fiche. You will find many instancies of what you think is useful information only later to discover you have been misled. I invented the phrase, "Assembly order". Many years ago. It was a good, even a great, phrase. Made many sales with that phrase alone, I swear. It's just not something you can count on.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:10 AM   #43
supershaft
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Like reported, they can go a long time without the pin with no problems.

If the bearing moves, it all depends on what model bike it is as far as what will happen. Early models will have starved rocker arms and the left rod. On later models it will only effect the rocker arm oil supply because they at some point redesigned the main bearing shells. If the bearing doesn't move, the pin falling out will not effect oil pressure that much on early or late models. It's not that big of a hole.

I don't know for sure what year they changed the main bearing design?

Early model bikes drop locator pins just like if not more so than the later models. The entire bearing web has a lot more problems on the early models. They seriously beefed it up a couple of times over the years for the early model bearing webs breaking and this includes the area around where the locating pin is peened in. The whole setup is much improved on the later models.

Anything is possible but I highly doubt any left the factory with the pin in the pan.

I have fixed a couple and the only thing needed was the pin replaced and re-peened. It all depends on what you find when you pull the bearing web.

Good luck!
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:00 PM   #44
tbounds OP
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thanks mine is a 95 GSPD classic with 43k miles . what do you think apprx cost to get it repaired . i am kind of obsesive about some stuff i just would always worry .
thanks again for your help
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:17 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbounds View Post
anyone know a good wrench close to Ms. Does anyone have any idea of the cost involved in having problem fixed by a good wrench ?If i am at this point should i have the entire lower pulled down and replace seals /bearings in cranks and cam?
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