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04-11-2012, 02:47 PM
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#76 |
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Dutch fool
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Holland, land of tulips and wooden shoes
Oddometer: 679
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Your wish is my command.
The last pic is from the later web, here's one from the earlier one, /5-/6 me thinks. ![]() Paul.
__________________
Geht net, gibbet net. |
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04-11-2012, 02:53 PM
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#77 |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,066
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There are beefier duplex webs. By mid /7 for sure. I think they did it in a couple of stages.
The old pin will work fine. You use the same hole in the web. It's the bearing that needs to be drilled and reamed. I recommend having someone with experience do it. It's a tricky job to do it right no matter which way it is done. |
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04-11-2012, 02:55 PM
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#78 |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,066
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Thanks PaulRS!
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04-11-2012, 04:11 PM
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#79 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: North Cowichan
Oddometer: 2,369
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Quote:
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04-11-2012, 06:30 PM
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#80 | |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,066
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Quote:
I use to work on prewar US aircraft a lot and I have never seen or heard of any aviation threads staked. For a situation like I think you are describing I have seen different standardized threads used that have an interference thread. The adjuster studs and lock nuts on Travel Air interplane struts comes to mind as do the adjuster lock nuts on a couple of parasol wing struts. |
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04-11-2012, 09:17 PM
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#81 |
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ShadeTreeExpert
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Silver Spring, Md
Oddometer: 4,999
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And as far as interchangeability goes the timing chain tensioners will both work on either type chain? I'm putting a question mark there because I haven't got one to look at but nobody said I couldn't so I guess I'll have to try and compare them myself, if this ever comes up.
If I remember the directions for installing the pins. The hole for the pin is drilled in several steps so the pin is an interference fit and the Aluminum of the web is crushed with a punch, the factory used a square punch, I think a small chisel will work also. The "stake" is to prevent the pin falling out. If there is not enough metal for this in the old place the pin was then put it in another place. I've never done this but think that would be the way. A small bolt held in with Red Locktight might be better but I'll wait for some expert to tell me how that works, how to properly install it. I don't see much problem with the pin. The OP's pin was not properly staked at the factory so it fell out. The problem when rebuilding the lower end of the engines is selecting the proper bearings for the size crank you have.
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Never memorize something you can look up. ---Albert Einstein disston screwed with this post 04-12-2012 at 06:26 AM |
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