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Old 04-17-2013, 11:45 AM   #676
bomber60015
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WRT Rucks

My R15 ruck has a zipper, and a hole in the bottom . . .. .

However, I've ridden long distances through frogstranglers, and the laptop inside never exhibted even a drop of water . . . . I DID have it in a plastic grocery bag (cheap insurance, and it ain't my laptop), but, short of scuba work, the R15 seems to be just fine at keeping things dry, thankyouverymuchandchargeit.
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:03 PM   #677
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Originally Posted by bomber60015 View Post
My R15 ruck has a zipper, and a hole in the bottom . . .. .

However, I've ridden long distances through frogstranglers, and the laptop inside never exhibted even a drop of water . . . . I DID have it in a plastic grocery bag (cheap insurance, and it ain't my laptop), but, short of scuba work, the R15 seems to be just fine at keeping things dry, thankyouverymuchandchargeit.
Yup! Because the R15 and R20 were originally designed for hard off-road work - where, chances are, you're going get drenched or dunk it at some point - they have a stainless steel eyelet 'drain hole' in the base of the bag to stop your gear marinading in any wet stuff that might find its way in and also to prevent you from unknowingly having to haul 20 lbs of water around in your pack.

And "frogstranglers": love it!
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:53 PM   #678
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Don't get too giddy, mate! It's only a few bucks worth, but it is - in its own way - pretty clever and very useful.
Been with the same woman now for almost 30 years......so just about anything new makes me giddy!
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:28 AM   #679
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Question

I have several of the new style Kriega US system bags that attach to my bike with the aluminum hooks to attach the bags together. I have a US-10 that I use with the Tank Adapter, but the bag doesn’t seem to be attached very securely to the Tank Adapter. The aluminum hook straps that come with the US-10 seem almost too large to fit under the webbing and don’t snug the bag tightly down to the tank. Should I be threading the aluminum hooks through the Tank Adapter and then clipping the bag onto the panel? It seems like this (see link: http://www.tiger800.co.uk/index.php?topic=1722.0) is a better way of mounting, but the straps did not come included with my Tank Adapter or US-10 bag, do I need to purchase these separately?

Also, is it normal for the Tank Adapter to loosen over time? The nylon straps seems to be stretching and requires constant readjustment to make it taught.

Thanks for the clarification!

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Old 04-24-2013, 11:26 AM   #680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woolsocks View Post
I have several of the new style Kriega US system bags that attach to my bike with the aluminum hooks to attach the bags together. I have a US-10 that I use with the Tank Adapter, but the bag doesn’t seem to be attached very securely to the Tank Adapter. The aluminum hook straps that come with the US-10 seem almost too large to fit under the webbing and don’t snug the bag tightly down to the tank. Should I be threading the aluminum hooks through the Tank Adapter and then clipping the bag onto the panel? It seems like this (see link: http://www.tiger800.co.uk/index.php?topic=1722.0) is a better way of mounting, but the straps did not come included with my Tank Adapter or US-10 bag, do I need to purchase these separately?

Also, is it normal for the Tank Adapter to loosen over time? The nylon straps seems to be stretching and requires constant readjustment to make it taught.

Thanks for the clarification!
Hard to read the black text on here.


As a quick fix, you can get 1" webbing at Walmart for a couple of bucks iirc.
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:48 AM   #681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woolsocks View Post
I have several of the new style Kriega US system bags that attach to my bike with the aluminum hooks to attach the bags together. I have a US-10 that I use with the Tank Adapter, but the bag doesn’t seem to be attached very securely to the Tank Adapter. The aluminum hook straps that come with the US-10 seem almost too large to fit under the webbing and don’t snug the bag tightly down to the tank. Should I be threading the aluminum hooks through the Tank Adapter and then clipping the bag onto the panel? It seems like this (see link: http://www.tiger800.co.uk/index.php?topic=1722.0) is a better way of mounting, but the straps did not come included with my Tank Adapter or US-10 bag, do I need to purchase these separately?

Also, is it normal for the Tank Adapter to loosen over time? The nylon straps seems to be stretching and requires constant readjustment to make it taught.

Thanks for the clarification!
Hey woolsocks,

Sorry to hear you're experiencing issues with your tank set-up. However, I'm sure I can resolve them for you.

The set-up you saw on that Tiger 800 was prior to the introduction of the Alloy Hooks Straps. The compression straps in that photo did the job, but were a little fiddly if you wanted to ride with and without the bag because you needed to remove a clip and the strap keepers from one end of each strap to thread it on to and off of the base plate. Below are the instructions you will have received with the US Tank, which show the Alloy Hooks simply hooked into the web loops on the base plate...



... However, I much prefer to thread the hooks through the loops and then attach them back on their own strap, as shown here:



This is tidier, but just as easy to remove the bag, complete with straps. Although you can still use the quick-release clips on the top of the pack for quick, temporary removal, if you wish.

As for the straps slipping, this is absolutely not normal. May I ask if you'd be so kind as to refer back to the instruction sheet and check that you have threaded the straps through the buckles exactly as shown? Just to be on the safe side you can also 'lock-off' the forward straps, by threading them back through the buckle one more time, if you wish.

I hope this info helps, but please feel free to let me know if you are still experiencing issues, or require any further detail.


Cheers,



Michael
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:54 AM   #682
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Good, bad and ugly

I did an overnight shakedown on a KTM 500 with the Overlander 30 and Combo 30 with mixed results. First the good: there were dozens of stream crossings and everything stayed dry and secure. It was easy to pack, unpack and re-pack.

I had the GoPro but I haven't processed it yet. Here's someone else's video of the same trails: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Knvb0GE40dc (I feel a little better about my ride after watching that since I did several climbs and creeks without dropping it )

The less good: From the get-go, I couldn't get the Combo 30 to sit solidly when affixed to just the puck loop things that come with the Overlander. I cinched both the 10 and 20 directly to the loops and had only a sleeping bag and little aluminum chair frame in the 20. The 10 had a miniature tripod and small camera bag with two prime lenses. Not much weight in those.

The less less good: Midway to my destination, out in those mountains, I lost a puck. The stud was still in place with good threads still painted blue with loctite but the cap that secures the loop was gone — not sure how that happened but it sucked. Before and after that, the straps seemed to easily work themselves loose. I had to cinch them back down several times.

The Overlander bags aren't secured on the lower trailing edge and seemed to flop some on the rough trails. This caused the side panel plastic to contact the pipe and melt right at the point that has heat shielding. Whether the shielding got mooshed or just couldn't withstand prolonged contact, I don't know.

Now what?

I want to be able to travel at least a week at a time so I'm thinking I need a rack for the Combo 30 bags. With some extra heat shielding, the Overlanders will probably be fine but the tail bags seem to need a solid base for true trail riding. Thoughts?
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:07 AM   #683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Abbott View Post
I did an overnight shakedown on a KTM 500 with the Overlander 30 and Combo 30 with mixed results. First the good: there were dozens of stream crossings and everything stayed dry and secure. It was easy to pack, unpack and re-pack.

I had the GoPro but I haven't processed it yet. Here's someone else's video of the same trails: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Knvb0GE40dc (I feel a little better about my ride after watching that since I did several climbs and creeks without dropping it )

The less good: From the get-go, I couldn't get the Combo 30 to sit solidly when affixed to just the puck loop things that come with the Overlander. I cinched both the 10 and 20 directly to the loops and had only a sleeping bag and little aluminum chair frame in the 20. The 10 had a miniature tripod and small camera bag with two prime lenses. Not much weight in those.

The less less good: Midway to my destination, out in those mountains, I lost a puck. The stud was still in place with good threads still painted blue with loctite but the cap that secures the loop was gone — not sure how that happened but it sucked. Before and after that, the straps seemed to easily work themselves loose. I had to cinch them back down several times.

The Overlander bags aren't secured on the lower trailing edge and seemed to flop some on the rough trails. This caused the side panel plastic to contact the pipe and melt right at the point that has heat shielding. Whether the shielding got mooshed or just couldn't withstand prolonged contact, I don't know.

Now what?

I want to be able to travel at least a week at a time so I'm thinking I need a rack for the Combo 30 bags. With some extra heat shielding, the Overlanders will probably be fine but the tail bags seem to need a solid base for true trail riding. Thoughts?
Hi Jason,

Sorry to hear that you experienced some set-up issues with the packs. None of these problems should have occured. Is there any way you can please email or post some shots of your bike, fully loaded as you had it this weekend and also some detail shots of the mounting points? I'm fairly sure we can solve this to your full satisfaction. In the meantime, I'll send a replacement Rack Loop out to you in today's mail.

I look forward to hearing back from you - please let me know if I can be of any further service at this stage.


Michael
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:29 AM   #684
Jason Abbott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amanlikemike View Post
Is there any way you can please email or post some shots of your bike, fully loaded as you had it this weekend and also some detail shots of the mounting points? I'm fairly sure we can solve this to your full satisfaction.
Yeah, I'll process some shots to share tonight. They may be good setup counter-examples. I appreciate your quick reply.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:43 AM   #685
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Originally Posted by Jason Abbott View Post
Yeah, I'll process some shots to share tonight. They may be good setup counter-examples. I appreciate your quick reply.
No worries, mate. I'm confident we can fix this. All our gear is torture tested by Dom & Mike (Kriega owner / partners who design every item themselves), as well as with what Dom describes as "ridiculous riding" courtesy of Dakar racer, Craig Bounds (shown here tackling 'Brown Trouser Hill'):



...So, it can handle pretty much anything us mere mortals throw at it.

As for the side panel - some of them can be a bit flimsy, so - aside from [or instead of] additional heat shielding - you might want to grab an exhaust slider, like the one traveltoad put on his 950SE here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=123

P.S. Just had a peek at your website - some really great shots there and the new bike is looking sharp!


Cheers,


Michael
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:21 PM   #686
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Just got the chance to use the Overlander 60 on a long multi day trip. Been working on a trip report for it, but basically was 1200+ miles, with the last 700 of them in a constant downpour. I'll attest that they are definitely waterproof. Clothes in the bags were significantly drier than I was in my rain gear. But I'll caveat it with the fact that they have to be installed correctly.

Each of the 15L bags attach to the backing plate with 5 screws. On mine, the holes on the bags almost line up with the holes on the backing plate. I kinda had to angle some connectors and leave others only partially tightened in order to get them to fit. Well, as the miles passed, the vibrations of the bike and the road caused about 2 or 3 of the specialty bolts and connectors to work their way off. Per bag. So now there are holes in the outer shell of the Overlander bags that water could get through. And as those pieces were working their way loose, I think try we're scraping against the inner bag, letting them lose some of their protectiveness too.

Still, 700 miles of rain, and an iPad case only gets partially wet? Other systems could do a lot worse.



Oh, how do I go about getting more of those pieces to bolt the bags to the backing plate?
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:19 PM   #687
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Michael, I didn't take any clear shots of the strap arrangement and to help matters, this being my first overnight ride of the year, I remembered a few things out the door that I just snapped on the outside, further obscuring the straps.

I criss-crossed the straps from the Overlander bags while the 10 and 20 cinched straight down to the loops. I had to stop several times to re-cinch everything when I felt it start flopping around. I rode slower to accommodate.



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Old 04-29-2013, 08:31 PM   #688
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Originally Posted by Jason Abbott View Post
Yeah, I'll process some shots to share tonight. They may be good setup counter-examples. I appreciate your quick reply.
Jason can you be so kind to post the pics on the thread so we can both learn about mounting the Overlander 30's on the 500?

When I put my OL 30's up against my 500 I saw a need for something to keep the side number plate and the muffler from making contact. The OEM heatshield on the numberplate will not work with the bag constantly making contact with the hot exhaust in my opinion. I've done this before on my KTM 525 and will be protecting the 500 side panel as well.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:16 AM   #689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TStorm View Post
Just got the chance to use the Overlander 60 on a long multi day trip. Been working on a trip report for it, but basically was 1200+ miles, with the last 700 of them in a constant downpour. I'll attest that they are definitely waterproof. Clothes in the bags were significantly drier than I was in my rain gear. But I'll caveat it with the fact that they have to be installed correctly.

Each of the 15L bags attach to the backing plate with 5 screws. On mine, the holes on the bags almost line up with the holes on the backing plate. I kinda had to angle some connectors and leave others only partially tightened in order to get them to fit. Well, as the miles passed, the vibrations of the bike and the road caused about 2 or 3 of the specialty bolts and connectors to work their way off. Per bag. So now there are holes in the outer shell of the Overlander bags that water could get through. And as those pieces were working their way loose, I think try we're scraping against the inner bag, letting them lose some of their protectiveness too.

Still, 700 miles of rain, and an iPad case only gets partially wet? Other systems could do a lot worse.



Oh, how do I go about getting more of those pieces to bolt the bags to the backing plate?
Hi mate,

Again, something's up here! Although they can be a bit stubborn the first time due to the very tight tolerances, the connectors should line up perfectly if the instructions are followed (i.e. add fasteners diagonally, rather than from top to bottom etc) and have done on every set I've seen so far. If they don't on yours, I'll be more than happy to send replacements platforms. Any photos you have which show the misalignment would be useful in diagnosing this.

A damp iPad case is not acceptable to us in any way shape or form, but that *could* theoretically happen if fasteners were missing. Were you sure to use the included Loctite on each one and let it cure for 24 hours before use? Regardless, I'll send you replacements, if you let me know how many you need.

I reckon we can get your system firing on all cylinders without too much hassle.


Michael
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:36 AM   #690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Abbott View Post
Michael, I didn't take any clear shots of the strap arrangement and to help matters, this being my first overnight ride of the year, I remembered a few things out the door that I just snapped on the outside, further obscuring the straps.

I criss-crossed the straps from the Overlander bags while the 10 and 20 cinched straight down to the loops. I had to stop several times to re-cinch everything when I felt it start flopping around. I rode slower to accommodate.



Hi Jason,

OK - my off-the-cuff diagnosis here is that the bags are set too low, which is preventing you from getting enough tension in the straps and resulting in 'flop'. If you look at the installation instructions, photos on the website / in the catalog and other owners, such as the ubiquitous and gentlemanly traveltoad's on page 11 onwards of this thread, you can see that the top corners of the bags should be slightly above seat level and the lower straps attached to a fixed point.

This will hoist the bags into a more diagonal position, placing more surface tension (rather than pressure) on the side panels and straighten out the strapping. This, in turn, might also provide other options for attaching the daisy chain strap. Either way, that slack should definitely not be there and surely can be removed.

The bags work best when fully packed, but when not stuffed to the gills, always yank the compression straps down as tight as possible to stop the weight of the stuff inside transferring. Same goes for the US pack on the tail - there's no reason the straps should slip if pulled as tight as possible and the strap keepers are employed.

This is all only based on what I can see in the video / photo but I am quite confident that - with the addition of an exhaust slider - the issues you describe can be eliminated with a bit of experimenting in terms of bag position.

I hope that helps, but please feel free to post up any more photos that might help, or PM a contact number if you'd like me to call and talk you through the installation.


Cheers,



Michael
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