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Old 02-09-2014, 09:58 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardware02 View Post
You're that neighbour...

You might be a redneck if:

...you mow the front yard and find a car.

Nope. I keep the grass lookin pretty good.

...your other truck is made by John Deere.

Well, my other truck"S" are Dodge, but yes, my other other trucks are Deere's. Yes, plural.

...You think that John Deere Green, Ford Blue, and Primer Gray are the three of the primary colors.

Sounds about right!

...The blue book value of your truck goes up and down depending on how much gas it has in it.


That goes for ALL our vehicles.
In my defense, the two Dodges are theoretically leaving in a month or two. I shouldnt mention that I also borrow a shop around the corner that has another truck and an old Impala along with a bunch of other junk.

Yeah, I'm THAT neighbor. But compared to my neighbors, we've got one of the most organized / well kept yards on the block.
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Old 02-09-2014, 10:11 AM   #77
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Now, I've been accused of being a redneck, too.. but who cares? It's a lot more interesting/fun than a cookie-cutter subdivision and lame HOA's.
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Old 02-09-2014, 10:15 AM   #78
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Yup. We've been looking for a new place with a big shop. Looked at a couple an any with HOA's were imedietaly ruled out. If I cant park a dead truck on the property, then its not the kinda place I want to live.
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:52 PM   #79
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Hey, I never said it was a bad thing!
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Old 02-09-2014, 11:00 PM   #80
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That's a good looking 314, well done.
I just did a repower to my 314 last summer with a V-twin Vangaurd and gave it a new lease on life. They are pretty stout little tractors.
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:54 PM   #81
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It's like green Crack or something.









Been phising for parts and implements for my 314 and this little gem popped up. Owner's sister gave it to him about 3 years ago. He planned on restoring it but was tired of it sitting in his shop. Dickered a bit, oggled his awesome collection of Deere junk, and loaded it up.





Sadly, it's currently spending its first night outside in 28 years.
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Old 02-26-2014, 06:21 PM   #82
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Got her unloaded and under a partial cover anyways... Looks good next to the 314.





Ran some jumper cables over to it from the 314- it cranks over fine but no compression. Fairly certain it has a thrown rod.
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Old 03-15-2014, 06:56 PM   #83
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So in just a little over a month, we go from snow to tilling weather.

Dug my tiller out the other day and semi mounted it, enough to drag it back to the house from the shop. Had to tie it up to the seat with the snowblower belt because the linkage was jammed for some reason. Picked up what I thought were the right belts for it- A33's (or 4L350) but they were way too short. Parts store only had A36's which were way to long but they were cheap so I figured I'd give 'em a try.

Tiller looks to be in pretty darn good shape. Won't tell you how much I paid, but it was a STEAL.



Is there supposed to be something holding the idler rod to the engaging lever? It was off, so I slipped it back on but there is nothing there keeping it from falling off again.



To business! Pics were taken by my 8 yr old...









Took all of 5 minutes to till the little garden. Which is a good thing, right as I was finishing up it threw both belts. Correct sized belts are ordered, should be here Tuesday.
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Old 03-18-2014, 06:10 PM   #84
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Should be a cotter pin or an R clip that keeps it from slipping off, usually with a flat washer. Is it cross drilled ?


Is there supposed to be something holding the idler rod to the engaging lever? It was off, so I slipped it back on but there is nothing there keeping it from falling off again.

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Old 03-19-2014, 06:22 PM   #85
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Not cross drilled that I could see, although I didn't think to pick around at the time... I've seen the holes get so full of gunk that sometimes you can't even tell it was there. No lip for sure for something like an e-clip.
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:31 PM   #86
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Had a smidgen of time to play with the RF today.

Drug it in the shop with the 314 and got busy.



Some "before" and during shots to help me remember where everything goes.









Ta da!







Took me a smidge over 45 minutes to get it out. Lots longer than a Craftsman- my record was 12 minutes for a complete engine removal on one of those, but hey. This is a Deere, we're talking QUALITY, right?

Think I'm going to have some students tear the motor down for their project. Pretty sure its got a thrown rod, but I found a complete rebuild and tune up kit on fleebay for $85 shipped. Time will tell!
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Old 04-23-2014, 05:22 PM   #87
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Pulled the motor down today. Oh look! Rod Soup!

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Now for the really bad news...

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That pic makes it look a lot worse than it really is...

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Chunk missing from the bottom of the cylinder. Note the thumbtack for size reference.

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I stuck the piston back in, and at its lowest (with an extra skosh just to be sure), here's how much is missing. The dotted line is where the bottom of the cylinder SHOULD end, the solid line is the break.

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The rings dont even come near the chunk- they stay a full inch above it at BDC.

So the question... Hone it, new piston, rings, rod, slap it back together and use it? Or do you think that much cylinder missing is going to let the piston slap around in there?
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Old 04-23-2014, 06:32 PM   #88
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I'm thinking I would try it unless I could find a good used block cheap locally (very unlikely). I dont think the piston would wiggle much at all.
I assume your a member over on the Mytractorforum.com? I would ask over there also.
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Old 04-23-2014, 06:40 PM   #89
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Yup, already asked there too. Still need to measure the bore and the crankpin. If its not worth rebuilding the plan is to "repower" it with an old Model E hit and miss engine.
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Old 04-24-2014, 05:03 PM   #90
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Cleaned up the crank with a little muriatic acid to eat off the transferred aluminum. I use steel wool like a paint brush, and just use a teennnny bit of acid. Makes cleanup a lot easier. Paint the acid on and scrub a bit with the steel wool until it looks better. Chucked it up in the lathe just to hold it while I worked on it with some emery cloth and it came out okay.

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Honed the cylinder and it came out nice too. Got some gunk in there while cleaning all the parts after, going to have to clean that out again.

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So the measurements all came out pretty near the wear limits... The cylinder probably should be bored and the crank probably should be turned. I'm leaning towards just getting the standard size piston and rod and calling it good enough. If I was planning on using this thing a lot I would go a different route, including a different block, but this thing will probably mow the lawn a couple of times a season just for fun and thats it.

Mostly likely going to blast the tins and put some fresh paint on them as well. Lotsa people said that the tractor looks really good in its unrestored condition, but if I've got it this far apart I just can't leave well enough alone.

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Is the block supposed to be black, or has it been replaced in the past?


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