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Old 04-09-2012, 05:14 PM   #46
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tagesk View Post


This is what it is supposed to look like[TaSK]
That is one filthy throttle body interior. It should be cleaned.
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:16 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by GS Addict View Post
As long as the grease is specifically rated for use with O2 sensors.
There is no such thing. Just use the silicone grease sparingly and you'll be fine.
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:19 PM   #48
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A martini thread is needed here badly......
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:58 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
That is one filthy throttle body interior. It should be cleaned.
Looks like the exterior; the bike had 170.000 km at this point.

Regarding getting the stud to stick, I don't have any interesting ideas.

I would try to press it in and see if it sticvks.
Before pressing it in, however, make sure you heat the "holder" properly.
Sisseling-hot, at least!

[TaSK]
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:31 PM   #50
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Well, it's not going in unless I at least partially remove the TB, just too hard to get fingers on it. Unless there is some strange tool, like offset needle-nose pliers or something to that effect. I can get it just started with my fingers but that's it. Heat it up eh, Tagesk? I've never used any kind of torch before but like most humans, I enjoy fire. I did find some (strange brown) viton o-rings which I'm pretty sure are not the exact size as the originals but I smeared just the slightest bit of oil on them and both BBS seated snuggly with no shredding of the o-ring. So she is at least running as before

I have apprehension about the TB removal, for no good reason probably. I think I can gain sufficient access to the mounting hole for the throttle stop by only partially removing the TB. Something I have to learn to do anyway as I have the upgraded cam-chain tensioner sitting here waiting to be installed.

I'll update as I go and again, thanks for the support and good times.
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:40 AM   #51
tagesk
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Originally Posted by Jazz62 View Post
I think I can gain sufficient access to the mounting hole for the throttle stop by only partially removing the TB. Something I have to learn to do anyway as I have the upgraded cam-chain tensioner sitting here waiting to be installed.
The cam-chain tensioner (left side) is replaced in a few minutes
Find Poolside's description.

To remove the (left) TB you simply unscrew both two "clips" (I don't know what they are called in English - slangeklemme in Norwegian). Then you simply push backward the black tube (where air arrives), and it is off.
It will still be attached with all cables and tubes, but that is normal. Look at the picture of mine.

Be warned: That throttle body is a delicate thing. And expensive. And it does contain petrol. I would advice against waving a torch near it without some careful planning.

If you bring your bike to Tuscany we'll figure out a plan during dinner, and execute it before lunch.

[TaSK]
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:33 PM   #52
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^^ slangeklemme = hose clamp
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:35 AM   #53
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So I dove in head first (as opposed to my usual ass first method of going though this life.) Got the upgraded temsioner in, no problem, didn't need to unplug much of anything. With my success came a new sense of bravado and I decided to take on attempting to install the little missing throttle stop since the pulley was much more accessible with the TB mostly removed. I did not want to use any impact force to attempt this for obvious reasons and finally thought to place a small nut behind the hole where the little button goes then use slip-jaw pliers and press it in. The hole in the nut allowing the little button to proceed through the hole in the end of the pulley without being stopped by the jaw of the pliers on the other side. It took quite a few attempts to finally hold the TB at the correct angle without the small nut falling out and then apply enough pressure. It snapped in with a very sharp positive snap. I just can't imagine how the original one went missing to begin with now that I see the force required to snap it in. I was oh so pleased with myself until I noticed that the cable had come off the pulley. I looked at the right side pulley and cable to see how it was supposed to be attached and didn't have any problem getting the cable barrel end back where it's supposed to go under the flexible tab. I was afraid that this misstep must have surely screwed everything up with the cable's length or adjustment and I envisioned pushing the bike the 1/2 mile to Seymour Goldberg's shop but it appeared to be just fine after I re-seated the cable end into it's fitting. I put everything back together, even got lucky with the big o-ring on the backside of the TB.

Before I started the bike I moved the pulley by hand and released it to make sure the new little button was making contact with the sacred screw. As long as I moved the pulley 1/2 inch or more I would hear the clack upon releasing it but interestingly if I moved the pulley any shorter distance there would be no clack. I tested this comparing it to the right side and the right side clacks even if only moving the pulley a very small amount then releasing. So I started the bike (much quieter with the new tensioner BTW) and let it get up to 4-5 bars. The idle sounded the same as before all of this. I hooked up Grok's "Harmonizer" and it confirmed the same as before, balance is pretty good at idle BUT this is still with the right side BSS all the way in and the left side BSS 2 1/2 turns out.

The conclusion I'm now believing is that someone at some point must have messed with the sacred screw, at least the left side. Should I be able to see a paint mark on the sacred screw? I'll have better light in the morning. Do I dare try to correct this? If I can find a paint mark on the sacred screw and it's locknut should I attempt to line it up going in the direction of tightening of course. My brain is telling me that if the right side BBS is all the way seated (less air) to be in balance with the left side, then the left side is not getting enough air even with the BBS 2 1/2 turns out, so the sacred screw has to be adjusted, right?
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Old 04-13-2012, 07:57 AM   #54
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1) I would apply some Wicking loctite (for assembled fastners) to the button just to be doubly sure.
2) Yes, typically there is blue paint on the screw/locknut. If you need to adjust the screw, PM Poolside, he has a documented procedure (you will need to remove the throttle body to do that.)
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:02 AM   #55
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The clacking thing makes me think of two things,

1) the cable to the left side was adjusted to act as a throttle blade stop in the absence of the real stop, and/or
2) your newly installed stop is just a tad loose and bouncing ever so gently in its bore.

I'm leaning toward #1. You should be able to reset the base throttle blade settings easy enough. The usual procedure for these types of throttles is to,

a) remove the throttle cables (not always necessary, just provide some slack in whatever easy way you find),
b) back out the throttle blade screws until the throttle blades rest against their respective bore,
c) adjust the stop screws until they just, JUST contact the stops,
d) add 1/4 turn to each screw, and finally
e) balance the engine using the Harmonizer

There may be some benefit from adjusting the TPS at some point, but I wouldn't sweat that just yet.

Before adjusting the blades, it would be good to wipe the throttle bores with a carb cleaner wetted rag to remove the thicker gunk.

One step at a time and before you know it the job is done!
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:28 AM   #56
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Without the wire holding (pulling) it, does the screw rest on your fancy, new stud?

[TaSK]
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:55 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tagesk View Post
Without the wire holding (pulling) it, does the screw rest on your fancy, new stud?

[TaSK]
Will check.
Also, throttle plate/pulley on the left side is very noisy which I understand is not uncommon. I can make it quiet by pressing inward on the center of the pulley from the rear. Right side is silent. Maybe the damn things need a rebuild. Or maybe I should just shut the f#$%k up and ride the fat girl.

PS - I'm the only fancy stud around here
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Old 04-13-2012, 12:02 PM   #58
biometrics
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One end of the shaft is "noisy" ?? ...and You can silence the noise by holding the shaft? Does that mean that end of the shaft has any lateral movement like the bushing it rides in, or the shaft is worn?

If that is indeed the case, it sounds like that TB just might need a rebuild. Do a search for Dan Cata... he sells TB rebuild kits at much better pricing than the dealership or Bing...
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Old 04-14-2012, 07:48 PM   #59
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"The conclusion I'm now believing is that someone at some point must have messed with the sacred screw, at least the left side. Should I be able to see a paint mark on the sacred screw?"

Ding! Ding! Yes, look at your picture in Post #12. The blue pain markings on the Screw and locknut are not aligned anymore--someone has messed with the "sacred screw"...but it isn't a huge ordeal. Just take a deep breath, do a Zero-Zero and be done with it (but it, *gosh* messes with those screws!).


Is the marking blue paint on the TPS set-screws intact?
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:41 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by SpaceManSpiff View Post
Is the marking blue paint on the TPS set-screws intact?
NO! Pic is overexposed but there is no paint marks on the TPS set-screws or the TPS itself. What in god's name do I do about that, the TPS reset in the Hall of Wisdom??
I thought I had read that zero-zero could not or should not be done on the 1150.


Untitled by piano62, on Flickr



The new throttle stop stud was not making solid contact with the sacred screw after all. I could slip a business card between them quite easily. Assuming the sacred screw has been fudged with I figured I can not make it any worse than it might be already so I had at it. Loosened the two intake tube clamps, slid the tube back into the airbox out of the way. The sacred screw locknut was surprisingly not very tight. I screwed the sacred screw in until it was just touching the throttle stop then just about a 1/2 turn more, about 2 turns total. The difference in the throttle cable slack was almost imperceptible. Tightened the locknut, slid the tubes back in place, tightened the clamps and started the bike. Half expecting the bike to blow up I was relieved when she fired right up. Let her warm up and she was idling too high, around 1500R rpm. At least I knew my adjustment had done something which was some small comfort. I was able to get my 8mm wrench and screwdriver on the locknut and sacred screw without removing the intake tube. So I turned the sacred screw back about 1/2 turn with the bike running and this brought the idle down to 1100-1200 rpm and the throttle stop is still making solid contact with the sacred screw. So I'm back where I started. BSS still out of whack with each other but at least now the throttle cable is not acting as the throttle stop.

Jazz62 screwed with this post 04-14-2012 at 09:20 PM
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